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About mjt

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    Too much time on the boards

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  • First Name Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year 2012
  • UK/Ireland Location Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage 0 to 5000

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  1. Can a Headunit Scratch a CD?

    It is, apparently, possible to repair scratched CDs by polishing out the scratches. If you search online you'll find some bizarre suggestions using, e.g., toothpaste and/or bananas (yes, bananas!) that nevertheless appear to work but the most successful is probably to use some metal polish.
  2. I think Arthur is pointing to the right area. It sounds like you're not getting adequate circulation of the coolant. What do you know of the history of the car? Maybe a previous owner has used K-Seal or a similar product and blocked some of the coolant passages. Has anyone tried reverse-flushing the radiator?
  3. New Car and Concerns

    According to the Haynes manual these engines are fitted with a vacuum unit on the inlet manifold to prevent engine shake as it stops. Might be worth looking at that. On the earlier engines the high-pressure fuel pump is driven by a double-row chain from the crankshaft and the cambelt is driven from the pump. I believe on more recent engines the chain has been replaced by a wet belt. I'm afraid I don't know the current recommended service intervals for the belts. I had the cambelt on mine changed at about 75K as it was due in terms of its age but I'd have had it done well before the recommended mileage anyway just for peace of mind.
  4. Aircon Fan Not Working

    That's almost certain to be a faulty resistor pack. If you look at the circuit diagram in Ian's post earlier in this thread you can see that the fan speed is controlled by inserting resistance in series with the motor. The highest speed bypasses the resistor pack entirely so if the fan only works in this position it has to be a fault in the pack. The section of resistor between pins 1 and 4 carries the highest current of any of the sections and therefore gets hottest so it's either burnt out or the heat has caused a bad joint in the section.
  5. Focus mk2 TDCI (DPF) query...

    Based on this driving pattern I'd advise you to go with a petrol. The EcoBoost engines can give quite good economy with decent performance and low emissions and fewer potential problems than modern diesels. That's just my opinion, I know I lot of diesel buffs on the forum wil disagree.
  6. It's all to do with the way the air flows around the car. Mudflaps might help a bit because they'll catch the worst of the grit and change the airflow pattern but you'll still probably find a build-up of dirt in that area. All the Focus models I've had seem to do it.
  7. Pulling my hair out

    You do mean 'both ends of the spark plug leads' don't you?
  8. Ford Smell

    That comment is unworthy of you Clive - you know perfectly well that Fords of a similar vintage rusted just as effectively.
  9. Cruise Control

    This is for people who don't have the skill, or are just too lazy, to use the handbrake.
  10. seat covers or waterproofing

    Hi Luis, Our 1.0L Ecoboost was stuck on a low average mpg reading (mid 30's) and didn't seem to move. Eventually I decided to reset it before embarking on a decent run and since then it's been updating itself regularly. It's now hovering between 44.2 and 44.4 depending on road conditions. I haven't done a brim-to-brim test to find out how accurate it is but I do find it's useful to know how different road conditions - and my driving style - affects it. Because it's continually averaging the figure, comparing the current instantaneous reading with the running total, it can take quite a while to settle if it's been brought low by, for example, a lot of town driving. Doing a reset will let it start afresh and get to a realistic average more quickly.
  11. Unless your motoring is going to be predominantly long-ish A- and/or M-way I would avoid a diesel. Diesels take quite a bit longer to reach operating temperature so for short journeys they're inefficient and you won't realise the benefit of better mpg. Coupled with that there are the problems associated with diesel particulate filters that won't regenerate unless you can drive at cruising speed for at least 20 minutes after the engine has reached normal temperature. If your journeys are mostly town and school run as you've stated my advice would be to opt for a petrol.
  12. Bear in mind that plug gaps have an effect on coil packs. There have been a number of threads on here in which it has been stated that the specified 1.3mm gap generates voltages high enough to cause the coil packs to break down. I think this was referring to the 1.6 engines with wasted-spark systems. I don't know whether it also applies to the 1.8 which has individual coils mounted directly on the plugs. I believe Ford might have issued a service bulletin about it. If you are replacing the plugs make sure they are correctly gapped and don't rely on them being right out of the box.
  13. alternator? battery? or both?

    I'd beg to differ about that. A fully-charged lead-acid cell has a voltage of about 2.2V depending on temperature so multiplying that by 6 cells gives 13.2V. To trickle-charge a fully-charged battery would therefore need in excess of 13.2V, maybe 13.4V. Even on cars that do not have Smart Charge and use standard, rather than Calcium, lead-acid batteries it would be normal to see the alternator voltage go over 14V immediately after starting then slowly drop back to just over 13.2V.
  14. Coolant Leaking Into Drivers Footwell

    I might be wrong but I think the two black rubber pipes to the left of those metal ones are the coolant feed to the heater matrix. I think Naz is right and they are pipes to the A/C evaporator matrix.
  15. I paid £85 for front and rear as both needed adjustment apparently. I think it's improved it but I'm still not sure it hasn't got a small bias to the right. Trouble is it seems very sensitive to road camber and crosswinds, much more so than our Mk2.5. The steering wheel is also not quite perfectly lined up since the adjustment. Hardly noticeable but I'm a bit OCD with things like that It had an odd tyre on the N/S front which was obviously a lot newer than the one on the other side which had some wear on the outside edge suggesting it had been running with a lot of toe-in. To make sure that wasn't skewing the result of the alignment I swapped those two onto the back wheels and carefully checked all the pressures. It's difficult to say if that made any noticeable difference but I thought I ought to try it first if I was going to take it back. I haven't decided whether to yet. Maybe after this weekend I'll have a better idea as I'll be doing 80-odd miles each way on mostly dual carriageway.