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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Focusoap

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    57
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About Focusoap

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    David

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus mk2 1.6 tdci
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cheshire
  1. Injector seals

    I don't know if you managed to get the injector out. They can be very stubborn after moderate mileages. The only way I've found to persuade them out if they're carboned in is to get the inlet manifold off and then you can get a decent grip on the injector body and rotate them backwards and forwards until you break the carbon down. Some egr cleaner might help left for a while. The starter motors aren't that robust and not designed for lengthy cranking and can overheat pretty quickly so best to leave a bit of time in between cranks to cool down a bit. The only way to effectively prime the system is with a bulb type primer. Pull the fuel through on the outlet side of the fuel filter then fill the feed pipe to the hp pump with a syringe or similar and quickly reconnect to the filter outlet. This normally gets you going within a couple of cranks. Good luck.
  2. Help with non running engine!

    Well done in getting everything back together after the rebuild and hopefully not too many bits left over. I think the 1.8 tdci engine like the 1.6 PSA tdci doesn't have a fuel lift pump and needs the diesel bleeding manually to the injection pump particularly if the fuel filter has been disconnected or changed. There are several schools of thought in achieving this but the easiest is a hand bulb primer connected after the fuel filter and then priming the feed pipe to the HP pump to eliminate entrapped air. Once the pump is primed it is capable of maintaining the necessary suction on the inlet side of the pump. From what you describe it sounds like a fuel issue and these engines can be very stubborn to get running after disturbance to the fuel feed circuit. It may be worthwhile changing the fuel filter as well whilst you're at it if it hasn't been done in a while. Avoid extended cranking the starters soon overheat and you'll end up with flat battery as well!
  3. Ford Focus tdci titanium 1.6 2009

    Has the car been low on engine oil recently or you have noticed that it has been needing more frequent topping up? Does the noise speed up when you rev the engine a bit when stationary and is it always present when driving or only when you put your foot down? Big end bearings produce a metallic knock when they are badly worn and are generally more noticeable under load and the engine is warmed up and the oil pressure drops a bit as the oil thins. Any signs of the oil light coming on after a drive and engine revs returning to idle. These engines are prone to injector problems as others comment. The copper seals fail (due to lose retaining nuts amongst other things) and results in the familiar chuffing sound and a noticeable smell of diesel and fumes. The only way to deal with them is replacement and possibly getting the washer seats refurbished ( within your budget). If you feel you can't trust your mechanic friend get a second opinion and ask what they think the problem is and a likely cost to resolve it. Don't go mad driving it until you have a positive diagnosis. Big end failure isn't anything like as common as it used to be just as long as you keep an eye on your oil level. Hope it turns out to be something minor.
  4. Focus Cambelt Damage

    A near miss glad to hear there are still reliable garages out there!
  5. 1.6 TDCi average MPG?

    Hello. Don't believe the onboard display! You're right to calculate it by hand. I get about 50plus around town driving sensibly and up to 60 on a good run but keeping to speed limits. I've blanked off the EGR and use branded diesel. I took the inlet manifold of to replace the injector seals at 100k and couldn't believe the cr** that had accumulated. It was like liquified coke mixed with glue. It doesn't use any oil between 5k oil changes (budget 10/40 as) and still has plenty of beans if needed. These engines receive considerable derogatory feedback but if maintained properly are excellent thermodynamic workhorses let down by careless design issues from our EU cousins.
  6. Injector Leak

    Very true! The hex socket nuts are very prone to loosening and I stuck shake proof washers under mine to help keep them tight. If there are signs of coke gunge around the top of the injector tubes then the chances are that just tightening won't help but worth a try. The studs are pretty slim and snap like carrots if over tightened. Can't remember the recommended torque setting but it's not much more than 5 Nm. Don't use a hefty ratchet to nip them up! Silly design faults ruin what is otherwise a great engine.
  7. Injector Leak

    Hello Removing the injectors on the 1.6 PSA engine can be a bit of a problem! If they haven't been out before the chances are that combustion products will have got past the copper injector seals and gunged up the injector tube where the injector sits and deposited carbon etc in between the the injector sleeve and the injector body effectively "glueing" them in! After you have removed the 2 clamping hex head nuts see if you can rotate or waggle the injector in the sleeve. If there is some movement then perseverance and care and EGR type cleaner may allow you to keep rotating the injector backwards and forwards until you get them moving and gently pull them out but it can take lots of patience! They are difficult to get a decent grip in the injector body with the plastic inlet manifold in place and life is much easier if you take the manifold off all together but involves another hour or so. Once you've got the injectors out (keep injector pipes and openings etc ultra clean as dirt can be disasterous) you can fish the old copper seals out. They will need replacing and possibly the aluminium injector seats recutting to restore a clean, flat seat). Ford recommend new injector feed pipes as the flared ends are compressible single use but I have carefully reused them several times without any leaks. You will need to bleed the fuel system after you've got everything back together as there is no fuel pump as such. Replacing the copper seals can be a bit daunting and if it's your first foray into injector removal you may be happier recruiting some experienced help or taking the job to your friendly local mechanic. Things are much easier if the injectors have been out previously in the last 20k miles and you've checked that the injector clamp nuts are nipped up to prevent combustion gases getting past the seals in the first place. Good luck there's lots of help available here and Google is your best friend!
  8. Oil leak 1.6 tdci (2009) mk2.5

    Welcome! Take a look at the plastic cam cover box on top of the engine. For starters, check the retaining nuts aren't loose and the moulded neoprene gasket that sits in the cover is in good condition and hasn't been distorted. Check the seal in the clip on adapter on the RHS of the plastic cam box that goes to the hose that connects the turbo and air filter box. Fit an additional jubilee clip if necessary. If you clean all the existing oil spillage off the front of the engine and monitor things for a week or so you should spot where it's coming from. There are a few additional suspects in the oil leak department but check the easy ones first before delving in the inlet manifold department. Is there any oil pooling around the injector tubes?
  9. Servicing a 2010 1.6 Tdci

    The original 16 valve Tdci engine was prone to turbo problems if very regular oil and filter changes weren't adhered to. As Albert suggests, change your oil and filter every 6k miles max religiously and you shouldn't go far wrong. The sump drain design doesn't allow complete drainage and unfortunately always leaves a quantity of dirty oil which instantly mixes with the new oil when changed. The meagre engine oil capacity doesn't help either. There's plenty of info online about the foibles of this engine but don't be put off it's a great little engine if well looked after and you can get away with blanking off the EGR valve.
  10. A series of worsening events

    If it was running ok before you dismantled bits of the fuel/injector system (apart from your original spasmodic boost problem) then,short of some rubbish getting into the hp pump, it's unlikely that a new problem with the pump has come into the equation. If there's irregularly "spurting" from the injector union when you cracked it then it still may indicate entrapped air. If you getting zero common rail pressure and it was ok before I'd revisit the fuel bleeding again (there's plenty of fuel in the tank and it runs without entrapped air when you manually prime the filter).
  11. A series of worsening events

    Try cracking the union nuts on top of the injectors after you have filled the inlet pipe to the injection pump and reconnected to the filter outlet although the injectors should be self bleeding. Give it a few turns on the starter and see if your getting anything at the injector union nuts. How old is the fuel filter? The starter motor isn't man enough for continuous cranking so do it in short bursts to avoid overheating. You really need a specific code reader like Forscan which is Ford orientated and the ability to log live data once you've got it running again to help point you in thr right direction. If it was running before you stripped it down them it's more than likely to be a fuel bleeding issue stopping you getting it running now. They can be a real pain. If your inlet manifold was gunged up then the chances are the turbo variable vanes could be sticky as well. It's not too bad to strip down and there are plenty of guides on line to help.
  12. A series of worsening events

    The 17x17 cutter should fit ok that's the size I've used a few times. Is the retaining allen grub screw fully in? The injector bore may be carboned up preventing the reamer getting down. If the gunge has been there a while it's like coke to remove! Are you checking the error codes with a specific reader like Forscan which may give some more clues as opposed to a more general obd2 reader? Sounds like you've done all the right things on the engine lube side. Is the turbo impeller spinning ok and no major play allowing the blades to foul on the casing? Next thing to have a look at is to check the variable blades in the turbo are free and the linkage moving to the vacuum actuator works. (Check the vacuum pipes as well as the large bore pipes to the inter cooler). Forscan live data can help to see what's happening with the manifold boost pressure when you get it running again and offer some clues. Don't know much about DPFs which yours will have (I think) but have read that blocked ones cause lots of problems too. If the EGR was full of carbonated gunge chances are the inlet manifold and variable turbo impellers are bunged up as well and the only solution is a good clean out. Last time I had mine apart the inlet manifold bores were about half what they should be with black tar -mucky job! Good luck just what you need for Easter weekend!
  13. A series of worsening events

    Greetings Marc! Sorry you're experiencing problems in the 1.6 tdci department. As you may have discovered these engines need plenty of care (and oil changes) to get the best out of them! As regards your boost problems could either be turbo, variable vane or boost pressure solenoid problems. These turbos are prone to failure and sticking vanes due to inadequate or dirty oil feed and, sadly, ultimate failure due the excessive carbonisation of the engine oil. Blanking the egr certainly helps to reduce the gunge that contaminates the variable blade pivots but can throw error codes as you've discovered. The copper injector seals are prone to failure due to the inadequate injector retaining studs which require regular attention to check that the "nuts" are nipped up (not too tight or the studs shear) to ensure the copper injector washers are maintained in intimate contact with the injector shoulder and aluminium head seat. I stuck some star shake proof washers under the hex drive nuts to reduce their constant loosening. If they've been leaking a while the seats will need re cutting to remove the grooves that compression gases will have effectively channelled in the head seat or they'll leak again soon. You can usually spot the failed copper seals by the black gunge around the injector body and it's reluctance to come out! Ford claim the hp lines are single use because of the compressibility of the swaged ends but I've had mine on and off several times without any leaks and saved a few quid. I would think your latest non starting issue is probably air in the fuel system especially if you've had the diesel filter off. They can be a real problem to prime and start. Ensure you bleed on the exit side of the filter and fill the inlet pipe to the injection pump to overflowing with something like a hypodermic syringe before reconnecting to the fuel filter outlet. Cleanliness is paramount! Injection pumps and injectors aren't cheap! Despite bad press these engines are highly efficient with an impressive power curve but need plenty of tlc especially in the lubrication and dreaded dpf departments to achieve high engine mileages. Just been to Gibraltar and back in mine and averaged over 58 mpg. Not bad for a 17 year old banger and didn't use a drop of oil! Thankfully it doesn't have a dpf and no problems with the blanked egr either. Good luck. Hope you get it sorted.
  14. Strange EGR Problems mk2.5 1.6 TDCI

    What an interesting thread! Fortunately I haven't had any problems with my 1.6tdci EGR valve but plenty on a VW Golf. The biggest difficulty I experienced was the added complication that most of these valves are driven by a PWM signal and a variable duty cycle parameter. I found it very difficult to get coherent results of input voltages to the valve using DVMs because of the integration period of the sampled signal and found using a good old AVO analogue meter gave a more realistic averaged "RMS" measurement. In the end I borrowed a cheap oscilloscope and was amazed at the voltage differences in the readings between the various measuring devices. I even ended up soldering hookup connections into the feed cables of the valve to get a decent reliable connection and avoid shorting the output of the ECU. In the end the problem was that the new valve hadn't learnt the setup values correctly due to a poor connection from the ECU and the reference potentiometer was giving garbage feedback confusing the ECU. EGRs along with DPFs should be abolished when we finally get out of the EU!
  15. Good bit of detective work and logic! Bet your friendly FMC dealer would have had a new engine in it by now!