AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


HeadShoT2009

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    255
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About HeadShoT2009

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 01/11/1991

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    2001 Ford Focus Black Edition

Recent Profile Visitors

4,454 profile views
  1. Ive had a look and I can't get either of the bolts to go in the bottom either way. I took a closer look at the hole and it seems that the thread is completely missing for the first 2-3mm. I'm going to phone round when I get time to check on pricing for repair and a scrap/replacement part.
  2. I'll have a go Thursday when I have my rota day off and let you know how I get on. I just want to get it done, I've been borrowing the other car long enough.
  3. I looked at kits but their not cheap and will more than likely just sit there gathering dust after this on use. Also would have no idea what I would need, size wise, I'm useless with the engineering side of things thread sizes, pitch, etc
  4. So is removing the knuckle likely to knock the alignment out? There is a couple of small engineering places that I could get a quote for them doing a helicoil repair(or they may have a better solution than that)? Just paid 65 quid to have it tracked.
  5. Maybe I have a different hub/carrier set up as the discs came off fine, just by removing the calipers?
  6. I'll have to have a closer look, but yes I mean where the slidding bolts for the caliper screw into, but when doing it Saturday it looked like it was attatched to the hub. Mind you by this point it was getting dark(thanks rain) and I was not particularly think clearly by this point.
  7. Got a big problem, when I undone the bottom slidding bolt on the passenger side caliper it was very tighted even after the intial sort of breaking the intial tension, thiught nothing of it and carried on. When I went to put it all back together the bottom bolt will not do up, well it does but only at a cross thread angle. So I think when I had it done they may have cross threaded it and when I undone it i damaged the thread. Now can I take the hub off without messing the alignment up and take it to have it rethreaded(think its called helicoiled)?
  8. Might be able to get sunday delivery if i have trouble. Ive got a friend coming over so we are going to try and do it the old way
  9. Cool I'll stop by Halfords on the way home and pick up that comma dot 5.1 brake fluid. Is this the brake bleeder you were on about Gunson G4062 Eezibleed Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001KTFIWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IxR0xb5T9YTPS
  10. Huh, I assumed DOT5.1 was some new modern standard. Halfords do a brake fluid change for £37, but it doesnt mention if it includes flushing. So for the standard bleed just to get the new calipers working I can buy a small bottle of DOT5.1 to top up the resivoir? I'll have a look to see if i can find any videos for doing a complete change and flush on a mk1 and see if that will say about how easy the clutch is to bleed on these.
  11. As some of you know I had the car of the road due to suspension issue, but upon getting it fixed I discovered a new problem, the drivers side caliper is sticking. I've tried forcing it all the way in then letting it out but with no luck. So I've order new parts(disc's, pads and calipers) and a hose clamp. Now I don't have a problem with swapping the calipers other and doing a basic bleed, but the car could do with a complete flush and new fluid. Now I'm not 100% sure on how to do this, especially with the clutch sharing the same reservoir(I've heard that hydraulic clutches are a pain to bleed). Also is it really necessary to use Ford ESD-M6C 57-A sUPER DOT 4 brake fluid, or will these be just as good http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/comma-dot-4-brake-fluid-1l http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/comma-dot-4-esp-brake-fluid-1l Or would it be just as cheap(I mean taking in to consideration time, frustration, etc) to pay somewhere to do the flush and bleed? Thanks in advance
  12. I want to thank everyone for the help. I got nuts/lock nuts from a place in Cambridge called Mackays of Cambridge. The car has been tracked, but have discovered a new problem.
  13. My track rod ends and anti roll bar linkages arrived yesterday(were suppose to be here Friday so I could do it over the weekend, but DHL decided to ship them to the wrong depo, even after arriving at the correct one in the first place), but the track rod ends do not have the lock nuts, anybody know where the best place is to get them?
  14. Sorry it's been a while, but been busy with work(luckily I've got a car that I can borrow) so haven't had time to try, til today. I was under the impression that the steering rack and track rod end were a complete unit, so if you damaged the track rods then the steering rack was also done for? Anyway I've got the track rod end off but I went slightly too deep with the grinder(first time using an angle grinder that needs precision), but the track rod end that came off seems to go on and off fine, so do you think that a new track rod end and lock nut will go on fine?
  15. I may try getting a nut splitter to get the anti roll bar linkage and track rod end off. I might try heating the locking nut on the track rod end and see if that will budge, but don't want to knacker the steering rack in the process, going to cost enough anyway.