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Budding Enthusiast
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About HeadShoT2009

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    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 01/11/1991

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  • Ford Model
    2001 Ford Focus Black Edition

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  1. My track rod ends and anti roll bar linkages arrived yesterday(were suppose to be here Friday so I could do it over the weekend, but DHL decided to ship them to the wrong depo, even after arriving at the correct one in the first place), but the track rod ends do not have the lock nuts, anybody know where the best place is to get them?
  2. Sorry it's been a while, but been busy with work(luckily I've got a car that I can borrow) so haven't had time to try, til today. I was under the impression that the steering rack and track rod end were a complete unit, so if you damaged the track rods then the steering rack was also done for? Anyway I've got the track rod end off but I went slightly too deep with the grinder(first time using an angle grinder that needs precision), but the track rod end that came off seems to go on and off fine, so do you think that a new track rod end and lock nut will go on fine?
  3. I may try getting a nut splitter to get the anti roll bar linkage and track rod end off. I might try heating the locking nut on the track rod end and see if that will budge, but don't want to knacker the steering rack in the process, going to cost enough anyway.
  4. I was following the haynes manual as it's been some time since last time I done it, which instructs you to disconnect the track rod end aswell, which is why I now need to replace it as the ball joint seal/gaiter is messed up as in my frustration with striping the hex key in the middle I thought it was a good idea to try and use vice grips to stop is spinning but just split the gaiter. Sorry I didn't get back yesterday, but I was ill most the day(never drink when your in a bad mood).
  5. Hiya, long time since I've been on here. I need some serious advice, I had my 2001 Ford Focus Zetec of the road for around a year and a half, but got it up and running again a couple of years ago and has been running fine until the other week when the front drivers side coil spring broke. I finally had time this weekend so went out yesterday and got a set for coil springs, a coil spring compressor and when I got home put it on axle stands and soaked it in WD40. However this doesn't seem to have helped as when I went to do it this morning I have had serious issues and I'm now stuck not knowing how to proceed. I eventually got the nuts to move by using a friends plumbers torch to heat the nuts and break there rust seal to the surface but as soon as I tried to undo the ball joints I ended up stripping the inner(were you use the hex key to stop it from spinning). I know I'm now going to need to replace the track rod end and the roll bar linkage, but I have no idea how to proceed to get them off in the first place, as the locking nut for the track rod end is a complete mess with rust as well? I haven't even tried to undo the main bolt yet that holds the strut into the hub. The only saving grace is the top mounts for the strut are completely rust free. Can somebody please help me, I have no idea what to do now, I've never seen a car this bad and I'm doing my head in as I cannot afford to just scrap it. Thanks in advance for any help.
  6. When I serviced my car a while back I changed my pollen filter and seal, but for some reason it has come unstuck and if I'm not careful the filter is going to get ruined or worse water into the car and fan. So before I go and spend another £4 on a seal I was wondering if you can get anything similar but in a larger quantity or a reel?
  7. I got it done. Failed for a front light and it being incorrectly aligned, but they sorted it for £20ish. But got some advisories 2 which are relatively easy exhaust mounts corroded and one of the anti roll bar links gaiters. But the other thing is the break lines which they have said are slightly corroded. But last March I had (this is quoted of the recipe) the N/S/F & O/S/F Flexi Brake hoses and manufacture & fit N/S/R copper brake pipe. Have these guys ripped me off or are the brake pipes Halfords have said are slightly corroded different ones? But any hey I'm ok for now.
  8. Thing was tonight when I put water in it to flush it, I left it for around 10-15 minutes and the gauge had gone up to about half way and the heater was blowing out hot air, but the radiator hoses were not warm, which concerned( I didn't want to be overheating the engine do to no water going though it) me so I quickly switched off and used a cloth to remove expansion tank cap and the water in there was stone cold To be honest I feel a bit of a ****, I had everything else done, fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter, spark plugs, pollen filter all the main stuff to get it though the MOT, but no that wasn't good enough for Mr Smart ****
  9. Ok, I've got 2 hours in the morning to get this done, as it's booked for an MOT( I didn't have this trouble with my mates Corsa, just filled through expansion tank and self bleed), so let me try and make a quick list to see if I have this correct. I need to get the heater hose offFill through heater hose till it comes out of engine block(according to Haynes manual) then refit hoseThen fill expansion tank?
  10. Ok had to give up tonight as I'm having a nightmare refilling the system to flush. I tried flushing by filling through expansion tank, but got worried as the engine was getting hot and temp gauge going up, but the hoses to the radiator were not and the water in the expansion tank was cold. So looked in the Haynes manual and it says about filling the 1.6 from the heater hose at the back of the engine, but I'm having trouble getting the clamp of as it's one of those annoying ones you have to pinch with pliers and the best part is some wise guys fitted it so the bit you need to pinch is facing down slightly. Can any of you help me out and explain to me why the 1.6 says it needs to be filled in this manner or if I just did something wrong when trying to flush through the expansion tank?
  11. Do you mean if it's organic or non organic? The stuff in the car at the moment is a orangy red colour so I'm assuming it's the motorcraft super 2000.
  12. The K&N is a panel filter, I already have the degreaser/cleaner and the oil. Is this the right stuff(distilled water) I'm not sure what type of anti freeze that is as they have not got a spec sheet listed on the site and can't find a manufacturers site. I'm not sure which plugs to go for, there are two Bosch ones listed but does not make it clear what the difference is. This is what it says about the anti freeze "TRIPLE QX Red Antifreeze/Coolant 5Ltr Our High quality Red Antifreeze and Coolant has a powerful formula with 5 years protection for all seasons. It is suitable for any vehicle currently using Redantifreeze / coolant and meets GL12+ Standard. recommended by Car Mechanics Magazine who rated it on potency, heat capacity, versatility and value Triple QX Red Concentrate Antifreeze is an extended life, ethylene glycol antifreeze/coolant providing effective heat transfer and all climates, year round performance meeting BS6580. It contains Organic Acid Inhibitor technology and is free from nitrates," The fuel has been in it about a year, but have less than a eighth of a tank(according to the fuel gauge) so I'm going to be sticking in 30-40 quid of fuel along with some redex.
  13. Hi, I'm about to service my car(51 Plate Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec), I've got my oil(, oil filter( I have a K&N air filter), but I want to change the fuel filter as the car hasn't been used in quite some time(I've started in every so often and made sure the clutch was depressed), but I can't remember which version of the filter I need. I did have the part code written down but I've lost it while I was moving. Now the other thing I'm wanting to do is change the coolant since I'm not sure when it was last done, I've been looking at this stuff, is it good enough quality and is 1L enough as I also can't remember what ratio you need to mix to. Do you think it is a good idea to change the sparks or do they not deteriorate when not used? Thanks in advance P.S. Long time since I last posted.
  14. What is the mininum efficiency for brakes when being tested, as I have had my 51 plate MK1 1.6 Zetec Ford Focus MOT today and it got 67% for service brake total force and 20% for parking brake total force. I had to have my brake line going to the drums done as it was highly corroded and my front flexis as they were buldging. Could these results have been taken before the repairs. This is what the report says: Service Brake Front: Left-234kgf* Right-355kgf* Imb 6% Service Brake Rear : Left-102kgf* Right-125kgf* Imb -1% Service Brake Total Force: 816kgf Efficiency 67% Parking Brake : Left-111kgf* Right-137kgf* Imb -1% Parking Brake Toal Force: 284kgf Efficiency 20% *=Lock What does this mean and do you think this is good, ok or bad for an 11 year old car. Thanks in advance
  15. Is it possible to change your gearbox oil yourself as I know when they do it in a garage they do it while on a ramp, I'm wondering as first gear is sometimes abit stiff and was wondering if it's because it needs more or nice clean oil. Thanks in advance