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Paul.d

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Paul.d

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Paul

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.4 TDCi
  • Ford Year
    2002
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. Hi All We have a Ford Fiesta 2002 with the 4500 RDS E.O.N radio and i fitted an IO Play kit to it for music streaming and the IO Play kit seems to have problems connecting to the phones and the control unit seems dodgy, anyway this isn't my main issue, but the IO Play is crap. Sometimes the power seems to be cut from the radio, without the battery being disconnected and then you have to input the radio code, which i have and i have checked it with Ford. Anyway the other day it happened again and I have now attempted to input the radio code and when you press no. 5 to confirm, the radio just turns off. The radio was a nightmare to get to the back of to fit the SOT Lead required for the IO Play. I have managed to get behind without removing the radio and removed the IO Play and connected the ISO connectors on the SOT Lead together, but still turns off when i press 5 to confirm. To remove the SOT Lead I need to take the radio out and even though i followed instructions from someone from this forum, it was hard to do and really tight when removing the heating controls and reconnecting them, so i don't want to try it again, just incase i cause damage to the heating controls. I would have thought if it was a power problem, then the radio wouldn't come on so i'm wondering if the radio has a fault?? Any help wopuld be greatly appreciated, unfortunately it's my wifes car and she doesn't want an aftermarket radio, so to be able to play my phone or ipod i need a bluetooth music streaming kit back in, once i've sorted the radio problem. Thanks Paul
  2. Hi All I have a 2002 MK6 Fiesta 1.4 TDCi and while i was driving to pick my wife up from the train station last nite, i suddenly got a message flash up on the clock screen 'EAC FAIL', it flashed a few times and then went off and then on again. The car drives perfectly fine, can't feel any loss in power and the manual says Electronic Accelerator Control. The nearside front spring broke on New Year Day, just got that done and they noticed a tyre starting to go bald on the outer edge, so it's now in for tyre and tracking and this happens last night! I've done some searching and my feeling is the Accelerator Pedal, which from Ford is £90 + Vat Any help appreciated, don't want to change the pedal if not needed. I was going to get a guy i know to come 'round tonight to put diagnostics on it, but have also heard this fault doesn't always give a code on the diagnostics machine. Does anyone know how easy (or not) to change the pedal, if it is this at fault?? Regards Paul
  3. Hi All I have now changed the spark plugs and it cured the problem, Hopefully with the sensor connected as well there are no more faults. Regards Paul
  4. Hi All Just another update, managed to get the Air Intake Sensor plug from scrappers and have scotch locked it back on. There is still a misfire, so i've ordered new plugs and leads and going to change them, have spoken to the garage who looked at it and they have confirmed the coil pack looked new. I have also spoken to Ford and they tell me the coil packs were common for causing a misfire, however they have been modified since and are £109, so i'll see what happens once plugs and leads are changed. Regards Paul
  5. Hi Scrapyard is probably a good idea, i had another look at the car yesterday and the wires are still there near the sensor, so i'm gonna have a go at reconnecting the sensor and seeing what happens, however the wires on the sensor have either been cut or broken right in the plug, so if i could get the pluig from the scrap yard i could scotch lock it to the wires on the. The snow here this morning was a little unexpected, so i'm not sure when i'll get chance to do it. Thanks for the help Regards Paul
  6. Hi Thanks for the honest reply, my sister paid about £600, she just past her test and wanted a car, but i didn't have much time to go looking with her. Do you think it would be better to just put an induction kit on or sort the wiring out to the sensor and see if we get a fault then? The sensor is only £34, but until i sort the wiring out to it i won't know if it's faulty. I'm tempted to tell her to get an auto electrician to look at it, but not sure she can afford, so was hoping to do as much as poss for her. Regards Paul
  7. Hi Sorry forgot to add, i have got a picture from ford and priced up the air mass meter and the IAT sensor, but also noticed on the picture that the first part of the air intake was missing, but not sure this would be a issue, as long as there is enough air coming in to the airbox. There also appeared to bit of white smoke from the exhaust when i revved it, not sure if this was related or engine not fully warmed up yet. Regards Paul
  8. Hi Thanks for the advice. I have been told to ignore the P1479, as it relates to the A/C and the car doesn't have A/C anyway. You might have answered the P0113 for me though, as i saw the sensor on the right hand side of the airbox and it didn't appear to have a wire to it, but it did have some kind of plug on it and i removed the plug and then put it back, but pretty confident that it's probably the fact it's not connected that's the problem, although i don't believe my sister had this problem when she first bought the car 2 weeks ago and she wouldn't have unplugged it. I'll see if i can get a better look, when i first looked, the airbox was a bit of a mess, cable tied on etc and i had thought maybe somebody had replaced it for some reason, E.g previously had a K & N filter on, the car doesn't look like it may have been moded in the past, but it does have 2 silver stripes down the bonnet. Do all the KA's have the Intake Air Temp Sensor, or is it possible it's the wrong airbox fitted and the sensor was on the previous vehicle and not on this KA? Regards Paul
  9. Hi All My sister has recently bought an old R-reg Ford KA, i believe it's a 1.3. She has had it in at a garage, because it was chugging as if it had a misfire, but the garage said the car had a new map sensor and coil pack fitted and thought maybe someone has already tried to cure the fault.They have also done a diagnostics check and produced the following codes. P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input P1479 - High Speed Fan Primary Circuit malfunction B1601 - Incorrect Key Code. Unprogrammed key (Keycode format OK) B1600 - Non PATS key, damaged coded key, or no key code received B1602 - Partial key read of PATS key She has 2 keys and both start the car ok. Does the key errors mean someone has tried to start the car from a non-coded key before?? If anyone can help point me in the right direction, she doesn't have alot of money, so just trying to help her out. Regards Paul
  10. Hi I've just coded my new remote fob to unlock/lock the doors, really easy works perfect. I have also managed to get hold of a more detailed explanation of how to code a new key, so i've ordered a blank from ebay and once i have got it cut i'll probably have a go at coding it myself. Regards Paul
  11. Hi I looked in the manual last night and read the procedure for coding a new fob, so i've got one from Ford and i'm going to try that tonight. I have a remote key that starts the car and unlocks/locks the doors, but i want another one as cheap as possible. I also have a standard key with no fob that starts the car and would be happy to have a remote fob on my keyring just for opening the doors, hence the questions about coding just the remote fob and then use the standard key to start the car. I also read about coding a new key, but i'm a bit concerned about what will happen if it doesn't work or goes wrong and then no key will start the car. Regards Paul
  12. Sorry, i should clarify i am referring to the remote fob coding, as i know the key transponder/immobiliser chip would need to be coded by a dealer for the key to start the car Regards Paul
  13. Hi Thankyou for the reply, but i'm just wanting to clarify things. When we had a Corsa we could re-code a fob that had stopped working (lost it's code/link with the car), but if we bought a new fob it would have to be coded at the dealer. Is this the same for the Ford? Regards Paul
  14. Hi All Does anyone know if the fob can be coded without going to a Ford dealer? I have a 02 plate Fiesta with one standard key and one key with built in fob and i would like a fob so it's quicker and easier to open the doors without putting the key in, it's my girlfriends car and she has the fob key, but we both use the car. I've looked on ebay and there are some for sale with instructions, but the dealers tell me it need's to be coded on their machine, which they are going to say. I'm not bothered about the key, but the fob would be ideal, especially when it's raining. I know it might sound a little sad, but when i'm rushing i don't want to have to explain to my girlfriend i've scratched her car. Regards Paul
  15. Hi All Well 2 & 5 didn't work so i rang Ford back and they wasn't exactly sure, but they thought it was either 2 & 5 or 2 & 6. Anyway if it helps, you turn the ignition and the radio on and then hold 2 & 6 and the serial number should come up, although it does disappear quick if your not ready to write it down. I rang Ford and they gave me the radio code straight away with no charge, so hope it's correct now, just got to find the time and patience to strip the dash to connect the SOT lead. Paul