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Mutti82

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    58
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About Mutti82

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Mika

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 140ps turnier Titanium B
  • Ford Year
    2011
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  1. Forgot to mention two intermittent symptom: Stereo panel won't lit up randomly when you press power on. You can hear radio and control it from Convers+. This is also happening only when for example stayed overnight in cold humid conditions. So could this point issue being inside dash...? Where is the "crossroad" of all CAN-network, if I have understood right. Also randomly "distance to empty" counter resets to 0km and begins to rise slowly when driving. This happening also only in humid conditions, today made it twice.
  2. And if you have Ford specialist in your friends or know good ones, please share this with them for opinions. :)
  3. Vehicle: Mondeo 2011 2.0 TDCi 140hp with MPS transmission Conditions of fault: Always when raining or wet roads or stayed overnight in very humid weather. Fault occurs more likely when temp below 10 degrees Celsius but has also come twice when warm and humid summer day. Never at normal cold day, dry and below -10 celsius. Symptoms: First you feel little "misfire", then dash informs Engine Malfunction, Transmission Limited Function, ESP light on (no ABS light). Then engine sputters hard, runs like only two cylinders working or like brakes trying to prevent skidding, and car bounces like hell when even touching gas pedal. If moving, speed just decreases if trying to accelerate, might be able to maintain speed if trimming with gas very carefully. When pulled over and standing still, engine idles normal, revs normal with P-shift, accelerates/works normal when reversing but immediately bouncing when trying to drive forward and press gas. The faster the speed, the denser the bouncing/sputter. Permanent or temporary solution: When letting engine idle 5-15min, might just start to work normal and let you drive rest of the trip or just 100m and fault again. Also if dare, just keep driving kangaroo car for 10-15min at 40-50km/h, at some point sputter and bouncing vanishes and car starts to work normal. If have run in those wet conditions but get to dry overnight in dry place, works normal next day. DTC: Attached picture of DTCs, read yesterday morning, fault occured monday night. There is always also PCM P062E, ABS U0401 and sometimes also TCM P1719 at the moment of fault but had no chance to save them with laptop Forscan, those had gone away after staying overnight and car working fine again. That B113D is permanent code, won't erase, my car doesn't have sunroof. Live values: ABS sensors normal and synced with transmission VSS. No EGR error between actual and commanded. No ESP/ABS events adding to counter when bouncing. Boost normal. MAF normal. Done so far: Changed MAP. Disconnected MAF when fault on, no changes. Ford dealer electrician inspected and electrically loaded engine wire looms for 5h. Changed PCM (it's cover had opened 2 years ago and signs of damp in every pin). Changed turbo (loud whistle, intermittent lowboost/overboost dtc, suspected freezing/sticking, turbo vanes WERE bent and cracked badly, but didn't seem to fix issue). WHAT CAN YOU MAKE OF ALL THIS? Any ideas of cause? Anyone had same kind of issue with any Ford model? Three different Ford dealer workshops and Ford Finland head engineer have now tried to figure out for nearly three years what's going on, with obviously not even a clue. Car has fault that paralyzes it in highway speeds when extremely dangerous weathers etc, and is not suitable for traffic. Do I have any lawful rights towards Ford or salesman in this type of case? Though I bought it from used cars dealer little bit over three years ago and propably salesman has no responsibility anymore. Symptoms started 4 months after deal and I had three months guarantee from him.
  4. Hi there! Did you find out what was causing those symptoms with same DTC P062E and only when wet weather? My vehicle still has intermittently those "kangaroo" jumping, engine malfunction etc... though turbo metallic whistle has gone so loud that I can hear it inside when driving 100km/h, also some signs from live data that turbo vanes are sticking, had also underboost and overboost codes... going to have reman turbo this week fitted. Local turbo specialist said that it is obvious that my turbo is at end of it's life. And that those intermittent faults could be explained also with turbo vanes sticking if it's dirty enough from carbon etc. Also actuator could be faulty if there is even a little vacuum leak or something in it, damp going inside it and making it stick. When we fit that reman turbo, also going to check if catalyst and dpf are clogged, also EGR if enough time.
  5. Hi there! My problem still persists and I was wondering that did you find the cause for your very similar fault? Those P062E and U0401 fault codes during rainy weather and cold engine etc are exactly the same symptoms as I have still had...
  6. Hi there! My Mondeo MK4 TDCi 2011 seems to have turbo coming to it's end. Well, nearly 300 000 km mileage it's not a surprise. Actually should be quite good accomplishment for variable geometry turbo? Model is Garrett GTB1449VZ. - Month by month louder whistle when accelerating - Intermittent Limp Mode with low boost or overboost DTCs - Forscan live data showing weird readings from VNT position and actuator demanded position values. First staying steady at 8-12% when cruising at 80 km/h and raising up to 95% when accelerating hard, then suddenly jumping to steady 90% and decreasing down to 25% when hitting throttle or releasing gas and engine braking = values going upside down, also louder whistle than when values "right way", some lag/thinking before car starts to gather speed, might even downshift one or two steps... values returning to "right way" either spontaneous or if not, then pumping gas quickly giving multiple adjustment commands to turbo and forcing actuator to move one way or another quickly. - Once also 30 second period of blue smoke whenever even touching throttle, just after I started to pass truck at highway speeds, hitting hard throttle but because there was car coming towards me from behind hill, needed quickly to loose gas. cancel pass by and return to own lane. - Seems to stick vanes 'cause turbo intermittently keeps spinning and whoooshin even when car stopped and engine idle. Here in Finland bigger turboshops are just offering Garretts OEM replacement turbo for about 750-800€ (saying Garrett has strictly forbidden VNT turbo maintenance and will not take responsibility) and some quality workshops wanting something like 600€ for reman (not caring Garrett rules). Started to look reman turbos from GB and Germany, prices are WAY MUCH CHEAPER than in Finland. But there seems to be many and many turbo workshops in GB. So I'm asking for experiences and recommendations for reliable and good quality turbo reman workshops!! :)
  7. Reliable turbo remanufacturers?

    So far I have found workshops like London Turbocharger, Premierdiesel and Turboprofi24 (ebay)... any knowledge of these?
  8. Hi there! My Mondeo MK4 TDCi 2011 seems to have turbo coming to it's end. Well, nearly 300 000 km mileage it's not a surprise. Actually should be quite good accomplishment for variable geometry turbo? Model is Garrett GTB1449VZ. - Month by month louder whistle when accelerating - Intermittent Limp Mode with low boost or overboost DTCs - Forscan live data showing weird readings from VNT position and actuator demanded position values. First staying steady at 8-12% when cruising at 80 km/h and raising up to 95% when accelerating hard, then suddenly jumping to steady 90% and decreasing down to 25% when hitting throttle or releasing gas and engine braking = values going upside down, also louder whistle than when values "right way", some lag/thinking before car starts to gather speed, might even downshift one or two steps... values returning to "right way" either spontaneous or if not, then pumping gas quickly giving multiple adjustment commands to turbo and forcing actuator to move one way or another quickly. - Once also 30 second period of blue smoke whenever even touching throttle, just after I started to pass truck at highway speeds, hitting hard throttle but because there was car coming towards me from behind hill, needed quickly to loose gas. cancel pass by and return to own lane. Here in Finland bigger turboshops are just offering Garretts OEM replacement turbo for about 750-800€ (saying Garrett has strictly forbidden VNT turbo maintenance and will not take responsibility) and some quality workshops wanting something like 600€ for reman (not caring Garrett rules). Started to look reman turbos from GB and Germany, prices are WAY MUCH CHEAPER than in Finland. But there seems to be many and many turbo workshops in GB. So I'm asking for experiences and recommendations for reliable and good quality reman workshops!! :)
  9. Hi! Has anyone had issues with TDCi intercooler and/or boost pipes gathering much condensation and also freezing when weather conditions are humid and somewhere near 0 degrees Celsius? If you did, what where the symptoms? Seems to be known and quite common problem in U.S.A cold humid areas with people driving Ecoboost engine what is working much like turbodiesels. I've been tracking this hell made fault from my car which only occurs when cold humid weather, coming intermittenly and vanishing in like 15-20min idle or slow steady driving. Thought first it could be electrical fault but found some posts from U.S.A forums which gave totally new line to inspect.
  10. Hi! Not sure if this is right forum, admins can move this freely to more proper forum if thought so. Has anyone had issues with TDCi intercooler and/or boost pipes gathering much condensation and also freezing when weather conditions are humid and somewhere near 0 degrees Celsius? If you did, what where the symptoms? Seems to be known and quite common problem in U.S.A cold humid areas with people driving Ecoboost engine what is working much like turbodiesels. I've been tracking this hell made fault from my car which only occurs when cold humid weather, coming intermittenly and vanishing in like 15-20min idle or slow steady driving. Thought first it could be electrical fault but found some posts from U.S.A forums which gave totally new line to inspect.
  11. Quote is updated version, didn't give me a chance to edit anymore.
  12. There has been no CAN bus related fault codes for a long time, not for at least last 5-10 times when fault has come. And that ABS related U-code has now always disappeared after first restart, so being only temporary, not permanent as was last autumns bad times and just reporting that had some abnormal readings from PCM (possibly because engine gone lunatic). So maybe that battery monitoring reset helped to those possible voltage issues. But hmm, not this is getting interesting again. Spotted from finnish Ford club forum something very similar symptoms and only in same weather conditions as I have had those issues. That guy wrote that had very strange power losses and limp modes, very rough running and studdering while trying to accelerate only when very humid and cold weather, somewhere near 0 degrees celsius or little bit under it. Sometimes also in city driving, usually in highway speeds. Symptoms gone when had let engine idle for few minutes. Codes were related to boost conditions and also ABS because engine torque calculations where mindless. They had found the fault: There was loads of condensed water in intercooler, which had propably iced in cold conditions and especially in highway speed air current making it more freezing. So choking boost current. And if not iced, when hitting gas and boost goes high, it had sucked that water to intake which messed up injection system. He wrote that after they had drained that water out of intercooler, everything had worked perfectly no matter what conditions were. Well I started to search internet if this is common or at least known issue. And came to this blog text in U.S.A: "Have you been having shuddering issues with your Ecoboost engine? Are you suddenly losing power? You are not alone, Ford is working on fixing the problem. What is the problem? Condensation. Many Ford pickups with EcoBoost have a condition where the vehicle shudders or stalls during normal use. In the most severe of cases, the truck will actually go into “limp mode” causing the engine to lose all power. This issue seems to be primarily from humid states like Texas and Florida. Ford has a growing issue here with more and more owners encountering this problem and they say they are working on a solution. What’s Causing the Problem After doing research by talking with Ford employees, auto technicians and reading through various forums, the cause seems to be the Charge Air Cooler (CAC). This CAC cooler cools the intake air as it goes through the turbocharger. This cooled air then travels into the engine. The problem seems to be that the CAC is working too well and is causing condensation to build up inside the air intake tube. Here’s the sequence of events. Air is drawn through the CAC and moisture collects inside the tubing. Most often this happens when traveling down the interstate when air flow into the motor is relatively slow. Sudden acceleration by the driver, changes the intake air flow rate through the CAC which causes the engine to pull in more air. With the moisture sitting in the intake tube, the engine is acting like a vaccum sucking up all this water. Depending on the amount of water that is sucked up causing the vehicle to have different responses. A small amount causes shuddering. A large amount causes the truck to go into limp mode to protect it from damage. What does this have to do with humid areas? Those drivers live in an area where the dew point is equal to the ambient temperature for much of the time. This means condensation occurs more often causing more issues. The Fix While there are no doubt quick fixes on the internet, Ford is planning on issuing a technical service bulletin soon to address the issue. They are currently working on redesigning the CAC to handle times of excess moisture. Be on the look out for this TSB." Just a thought that maybe this could also explain why turbo whining has gone up and boost values look higher as turbo has to make more work to maintain adequate boost levels when charge air is not flowing totally free? And in my case symptoms gone either idling engine or driving slowly like 50 km/h tops for a while... because intercooler has change to defrost? And when I hit the highway again it starts to gather problems again? As I have said, Finland is known for being cold and humid country, springs and autumns has both factors at worst combination level. I have forgotten totally to mention one noted thing... car was more prone to fault when I have used webasto in those 0 to -5 celsius weathers to preheat it, just for comfort mornings. Maybe it gathered condense because of it and when starting engine, cold air rushed into warm engine... twisting things more. I stopped webasto usage also somewhere between december and january (because thought that it drains battery and makes voltage issues), and as I've told it earlier, didn't have any issues for three first months in this year. UPDATE: Found also in one of the two Finland's biggest car magazine "Windshield" a story where has been written that this intercooler freezing/condensing issue is a known one in Finland weathers in at least VW, Skoda, Ford, Peugeot and Citroen TDCi based engines.
  13. Okay so bit high boost pressures in normal driving. By the way how does EGR blanking affect to boost pressures? Haven't studied so far yet. :) I removing and cleaning turbo seems to need car lifts and good tools so propably better to leave it's and EGRs checking/cleaning to professionals. But if the problem still remains in ABS system, one thing I haven't done is take off rear ABS sensors, because they seemed to be pretty tough when I checked them. And I was 200km away from home at weekend trip so didn't want to risk that they break and car doesn't move even that much. Rear sensors propably control TCS? Could explain TCS light which ALWAYS lits first when fault comes. Also once or twice has flashed randomly and small "misfire" is felt, usually 1-5min after that light show starts. Weird thing is that no ABS light ever, just TCS.
  14. Hour ago it started to rain wet snow from full sky so took car to drive. Headed highway in hope to get the fault on again. I didn't thought. But recorded live stream all the time driving 80-110 km/h. BARO was steady 980 hPa (while Finland official forecast shows 1007 hPa to my home city, strange). I don't know exactly what are normal values but... driving in those conditions MAP showed 1,5 - 1,7 bar at 80 km/h and 1,8 - 2,0 bar at 110 km/h when driving flat road. When making hard accelation and then putting Cruise on, MAP value descended VERY slowly from momentary max 2,6 bar and remained at those (to my eye) quite high values. I could hear that whistle from under bonnet to inside in those highway speeds even driving all the time quite flat road and should not need to boost so much. Then headed to my friend with car tuning hobby, told him to listen that is that whistle abnormal in his ears. Opened bonnet and listened while I pressed pedal, his opinion was that whistle is quite loud, pointed it coming from right about there where turbo is located, he didn't know that though so neutral opinion. Also took him to a spin and he was bit concerned of how clearly and strengthening that whistle was even inside car at highway speeds. His thoughts: Slow decending of boost would point sticking vanes? Also for some reason boosts quite high for normal daily drive? Also that difference between car measured BARO and official one is weird.
  15. That ABS related DTC appeared also last time when fault came on, but this time it vanished as soon as keys off and on again. Previously it didn't. I got bit better USB-based switched ELM327 cable and hooked it up with Forscan. Following DTCs found permanent (permanent because car is now restarted like 50 times after the fault was last time, that long trip): PCM: P2456:92-28, P0299:00-68, P062E:12-68 BCM: C2003:49-28, B1130:07-28, B113D:14-2F Those BCM codes have occured also some other time but never have caused any symptoms and when read fresh, all have said MIL light isn't lit for this dtc. So can you make any sense or new lines to inspect from those PCM codes? Pressure issues charged air system and now also in DPF... soot accumulated in turbo vanes/actuator (or egr and affects to turbo) and in dpf? Though both could be once again electrical faults.