DaShiner

Budding Enthusiast
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About DaShiner

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 12/29/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    escort
  1. Not sure if anyone will know the answer to this but here goes.... I've got an r reg 1.8 55d escort van, when I wanted to use my old car stereo from my honda civic in this van I had to buy one of those fascia adapter things that blank of the space left underneath the single din stereo but those adapters are crap and break easily and mine broke and the stereo never stayed in place securely so couldnt wait to buy a double din stereo so that I wouldnt have to !Removed! about with adapters to secure it. My fathers day present from the mrs and kids was a double din stereo from ebay (brand new in box), well chuffed but went to fit it in the van the other day and found it was the right size in width but not in height :o :( I think im gonna have to cut away the plastic strip that runs across the middle of the double din opening in the dash to get the stereo in, that's not much of a problem, its an old van so doesn't matter really, the problem is - I need to get a cage/fitting kit of some sort so that it fits in neatly, and secures the whole stereo somehow from within the inside of the dash. Anyone suggest any ideas, maybe someone has done this before and knows what kit I need or suggest a way of bodging it in there that will work just as well? Thanks DaShiner
  2. £150, is that the usual price you would expect for an engine with that sort of mileage vinny? thats not a bad mileage, I'd be happy with something like that for £150! what about recons mate, how much would one of them sell for £300+ maybe?
  3. Hi, my old van is struggling since I put 17" wheels on it. I thought it would just slow the acceleration but improve top speed but it turns out that its just plain slow lmao. Its a 1.8 55d r reg and as you know they are slow at the best of times! so I'm thinking of maybe putting a 1.8 - 2ltr turbo lump in it to even things up a bit. Would it be a straight forward swap of engines e.g just take the old one out and put the turbo one in its place and reconnect all the hoses and everything back up? I'd probably have to change the gearbox for one from a turbo engine wouldnt I? Lastly, how much would I get a used or recon one for and wheres a good place to buy from? Cheers
  4. personal note: never try and do this job without keeping an eye on your driveshaft!! this is why I had problems getting it back together, the driveshaft had slipped out on the engine side and somehow moved, luckily the bits and pieces stayed put so it went back together ok and the rest of the job went without a hitch. Why is it that the Haynes manual doesn't tell you to be careful with the driveshaft when trying to do this job, grrrr! if there was one of those little advice bits on the page that said "take care not to pull on driveshaft or something bad could happen" then it might help lol. Anyway, thanks for the advice Vinny I'll go get it tracked up asap ;)
  5. thanks vinny. Ive done the same job before on my mrs old seat ibiza with not too much of a prob, tried for ages yesterday to do this one with no luck, got covered in dirt and sweat with no joy :( I'll try it again in a bit but I reckon I'll be back to ask for more advice soon lol. I will get the tracking done when I do eventually get the job finished ;)
  6. had to try and replace a worn out bush on the drivers side so bought the whole arem to put in there. Can you tell me hoe to get the !Removed! thing on there? I bolted the arm up through the sub frame but when I tried to get the spindle from the ball joint end of the arm into the hole, it would reach, I checked the part was the same as the old one and it looks identical. Also tried putting the spindle in first and then bolting through the subframe but with the spindle in place the other holes wouldnt line up. Cheers
  7. the garage fixed it in the end because there was a problem with the handbrake adjuster underneath where whoever owned it before me overtightened it or something, it ended up costing a bit to put right but job done and Ive got a mot certificate at last ;)
  8. I changed the cv boot and lower arm yesterday so all thats left for me to do is the brake, thanks for that link mintalkin, I'll get the wheel off sometime today (in the rain lol ) and I'll use that info you gave me to refer to if I need it, many thanks mate!
  9. Ello..... I've ordered some long wheel studs from ebay, also ordred some 5mm wheel spacers and spigots so I can put my 17" alloys on the van. Is it hard to get the old studs out? it mentioned somewhere about presssing them out but a diy mechanic should be able to do it with no probs....is this correct?? thanks
  10. at the moment its off the road as its a failure, got to put it back in the garage at partridge green on sat a.m to have the welding done and re mot. Ive done a n/s anti roll bar, that was an easy one, plus all the little blown bulbs etc, still got the brake problem and a cv boot to change plus a wishbone cos one of the bushes has gone. By the way the rear brakes are drums, do they still have pistons?? cheers
  11. Hi, not been on here for a while cos I thought my van has been ok for a while, but I went for the MOT yesterday thinking I would be coming out with a shiny new MOT sheet with maybe a few mentions on the advice sheet but in fact it failed pretty miserably from simple things like number plate bulbs to serious welding around the rear suspension mounts and also the passenger side seat belt anchorage which had also rusted quite badly :( There is also a problem with the offside rear brake application being uneven, I stayed with the van throughout the MOT so I saw him do the brake test with that machine with what appears to be a brake resistance meter (big dial with numbers and a pointer), I noticed each test the pointer got up to about 6 - 7 on the dial but one of the tests on the o/s rear hardly managed to get 2 (whatever it was, was a lot lower than the rest. My van has disks at the front and drums at the rear, what advice could you give me here please, is there things I can do to sort it out or will I have to get a new drum brake. If there is a way of sorting it could you explain, thx all ;)
  12. are they hard to replace mate? can a DIY mechanic do it easy enough?
  13. I cant help you mate but felt i had to say..... I had a honda civic 1.6 vti saloon 170bhp, loved it to bits, only car I have ever missed :'( but then cos of growing family and work, I had to get rid, and get a van for work and a little run around for the mrs. Found an escort 55d with 1.8 dura De engine......good little van by all accounts but so !Removed! slow its untrue lol Someone has told me and I dunno if its true, that if you have a cav inj pump it will make a big difference by swapping it for a bosch one, not tried it myself but ask on here and someone will know i'm sure! The good thing is that these little diesel vans of ours are pretty good on furel eh lol good luck mate, let me know how you get on?
  14. After replacing all the cam,crank and auxhiliary seals (and camshaft after we snapped the other one lol) now it seems I've got gear oil leaking out from the gearbox somewhere, at least I think its gearbox oil, its clean looking, and smells different to engine oil? Can you gimme some advice on what it could be thats allowed it to leak and how hard it is to fix pls? nice 1! Denis (I'm not familiar with that side of the engine, my guess is a gasket or something has failed?)
  15. Yeh I mentioned before about getting a set of 2nd hand masitaly 17" alloys for my van that didnt really fit properly and been advised on this and that i.e need spigot rings, longer wheel studs and a set of spacers, so Ive been checking some of the stuff and prices out online. I need to find a place that sells all of the above and hopefully cheap too ;) I noticed there are different types of wheel spacers which is a bit confusing, there are a type called hubcentric spacers...now, are these designed so you don't need to buy spigot rings to make the wheels more centered yet still work as normal alloy spacers? And some have got studs in, and others havent, which ones do i need?? lol metal or plastic spacers? and what size studs to get to fit as the ones I have still have 5 or 6 threads left when fully tightened. (I think I need spacers at about 10mm wide at the rear to stop the wheels rubbing )