AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


MJNewton

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    371
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

MJNewton last won the day on May 9

MJNewton had the most liked content!

About MJNewton

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Mathew

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Titanium 1L Ecoboost
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Wiltshire

Recent Profile Visitors

746 profile views
  1. Low Coolant Warning Project questions

    It's a good point about the possible benefits of a damped trigger to avoid false alarms. I had assumed though that the expansion tank is heavily baffled to stop the coolant moving around and risking air being sucked in. You've probably done more testing than I though? Regards power there is a switched hot-at-on feed available from the upstream side of the reverse switch. It sits on a 7.5A fuse with nothing else attached (apart from the downstream reverse light of course).
  2. Low Coolant Warning Project questions

    I must admit I was rather surprised by the subtlety of it. I thought I'd seen a 'Engine overheating - pull over now' warning on a photo of the centre dash info screen but I'm wondering if I'd been thinking about it so much I've just imagined it!! Reading back through the thread I see that you mention a ~10s delay before the low brake fluid warning appears. Does it not concern you that this might be too long a window to be unaware what's happened? I honestly don't know how long we've actually got before coolant loss results in catastrophe but I can't help but feel that every second might count. With this in mind I think I'm going to wire mine in parallel with the bonnet switch as that alert is instantaneous (and still passes the wife test in terms of being suitably alarming to warrant stopping[1]!). [1] I hope my wife never reads these posts - I'm hardly painting her in a good light! ;-)
  3. Enabling Automatic Lights

    If I worked in a Ford factory I'd put little stickers in the place of missing components saying things like 'Sorry mate - should've paid the extra when you specced it.. ;-)'
  4. Low Coolant Warning Project questions

    I've been doing a bit of experimenting myself with seeing if there any alternative warning messages that could be triggered. In particular, I figured that if an overheat situation can be simulated then that ought to trigger a very alarming overheat warning on the centre console screen that even my wife would be sufficiently coerced into doing something about (immediately, not just casually mentioning it over dinner that evening!). So, I measured the response curve of the engine coolant temperature sensor and calculated what resistance would result in overheated temperatures being detected. Such a resistance could then be created by shunting in another resistor in parallel with the ECT sensor when the coolant bottle is detected as empty. A 1K ohm parallel resistance with the 2.8K ohm ECT value (at 90c) is equivalent to a simulated 115c (125c at 110c real) but having tried this it resulted in nothing more than the coolant gauge going to max and a rather subtle overheat warning symbol (the classic 'thermometer in the sea' type) on the instrument panel and nothing on the in-dash screen. Using Forscan I could see that my calculated temperature was spot on, and also that the appropriate DTCs were being triggered. So I then tried 680 ohms to represent more towards 150c and still nothing more. The anti-climax lowered my enthusiasm and so I didn't try for any higher. On a more positive note the fake overheat scenario does result in the cooling fan being set to max and thus in the case of coolant loss you would at least have that bonus whilst you tried to pull over but I can't imagine it saving the day, and the visual warning isn't anywhere near as in-your-face (like the low brake fluid message) to warrant this approach in my view. All in all a rather disappointing result. I am wondering if perhaps there isn't anything more warning wise for overheat temperatures, at least on those engines like mine that pre-date the introduction of a cylinder head temperature sensor which quite possibly does result in something more substantial. It could well be that I didn't go high enough with my fake temperatures but I would expect (hope) that 150c ought to be high enough! Also, whilst the engine was running I wasn't actually driving so perhaps the response might've been different if I had been moving along but I doubt it.
  5. 2013 1.0l Ecoboost engine rust. Problem?

    I'm sure things will work out the same way for you, but if for some reason they don't send me a PM and I'll give you my case reference, the name of the person I spoke to etc.
  6. 2013 1.0l Ecoboost engine rust. Problem?

    Is there any other useful information from the TSB you can share Ian?
  7. 2013 1.0l Ecoboost engine rust. Problem?

    I didn't get the opportunity to read the TSB in detail but did my best to glean what I could on a angled screen! But, yes, that is likely essentially it. I'm sure there's some prep work to remove loose rust, masking off, perhaps a couple of coats (it's obviously important to create a non-permeable coating) etc. Thinking about it now I definitely saw two items to order and whilst I've assumed one of them is paint I'm thinking now that it might be tannic acid - the likes of Kurust and similar products, some of which can be quite expensive even in small amounts and so the primer could be left as the outer coating. Do we have any Ford mechanics (or others with access to ETIS) that might be able to dig out the TSB?
  8. 2013 1.0l Ecoboost engine rust. Problem?

    I visited my dealer this morning for them to take a look. They hadn't seen this issue before and weren't aware of the Ford Denmark announcement. They did however agree that it really ought not to happen at such an early age/mileage and managed to find a TSB (16-2088 I think if anyone has access to them?) which references the problem and, in cases where the corrosion is only slightly as in mine, the fix involving the application of a water-based epoxy primer and paint. They took some photos and sent them off to CRC with a report and a request for warranty cover. CRC have just called to say that the warranty department have not honoured the request (with it being out of warranty and not a recall issue) but that they (CRC) will send me an £80 voucher to cover the cost of the repairs (£71?). I'm obviously disappointed that the pipes rusted in the first place but accepting that they did I'm quite happy with the resolution.
  9. Understood. To be honest it's not something I've heard of being done (i.e. DIYing with a stock Ford map) but that could easily be my ignorance on the matter.
  10. Car Door Checks

    I think they should be lightly greased - they are a moving part (in terms of having sliding mating faces) afterall. I would not expect the 'holding' power to reduce as this is achieved primarily through a spring clamp and cam profile, not friction.
  11. As you said you didn't want aftermarket mapping then there's not much to say on the subject! What's the reason for not wanting aftermarket?
  12. 2013 1.0l Ecoboost engine rust. Problem?

    He probably just wanted to sell you the other car (Ecoboost's pretty much sell themselves given their popularity; other versions may need a bit of a push).
  13. Footwell LED lights

    They shouldn't glow when off.
  14. You haven't mentioned GPS but do you have the GPS module installed? If so try powering direct (to the camera) as might be causing issues.