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lublin

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    101
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About lublin

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    Feet Under The Table

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  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Escort Estate 1.6 16v . Built 14/11/95.
  1. I have read that they need changing at 120,000 miles (Mk 3- 2.0-1.8 Petrol) but also that there are some that have done a lot more miles without being changed. How many miles have you done on the original chain? Has anyone had a petrol chain snap?
  2. Mk3 Clutchs

    O.K. Thanks for the info. :)
  3. Mk3 Clutchs

    I am going to look at a MK3 2.0 Ghia 2003, 241000 klm (150,000 miles) on the clock (most likley to have been clocked) It's a Swiss import. What are the clutches like on the petrol models? Will the clutch have been changed at this many Klm? I heard the diesels could be a problem, because of the torque? Do the pertol ones last well and if they start to become noisy, then how long before it must be replaced (I know they are expensive)? I only did, on average, 5000 klm (3000 miles) per year for the last 4 years, in my Escort. It seemed like a lot more because I did a lot of driving in rush hour traffic. I hope some people have expirence of this sudject and can pass the info on. :) P.S. Any other problems that I should know about with this model?
  4. Fan Solenoid

    Is it normal for the fan solenoid switch to get hot? (the one next to the battery)
  5. Delay When Foot Off Accelerator

    Get someone to depress the pedal to max and then take it off whilst you watch the mechanism under the bonnet to see if it's a sticky mechanism problem or something else, it could just be the cable. I'm not sure about Fords but other makes can have crap buildup in the throttle body, maybe worth a check if it's not the cable. If the car hasn't been used much with the throttle wide open then there could be carbon jamming the butterfly, slightly, in the throttle body. It may be this but it's hard to diagnose via the internet so it might be nothing to do with this.
  6. Fuel Problems And Running

    Hello. The first thing I would do is change the fuel filter because lacking power and problems with fuel deliver could be this and/or you have an air leak and by the sounds of it a very bad air leak. Look for any damp areas on the fuel lines because where fuel gets out air can get in, also check that the seal on the fuel filter is OK and hasn't been damaged when someone fitted a new filter. I think I should also mention: do you have any crushed/flattened metal fuel lines as this can cause problems and even bugger your fuel pump, you can have collapsed rubber fuel lines but usually if the wrong type of rubber has been used - I had this once when I used the wrong type just to get me from Poland back to the UK on an Xantia diesel, after a few weeks it started to lose power and I traced it to the rubber pipe, which had collapsed. ....on some makes of diesel car the rubber on the manual priming pump can start to leak air, so check this, although it might be hard to tell if it is or not :(
  7. Head Swap 1.8 Diesel

    You're welcome. The only thing is if the valve stem guides have been damaged they might be hard to get out of the head or even have damaged the head its self, i.e. slotted the valve guide holes. Good luck with it any way. Here's a picture of what happens when a two vale 4 cylinder (bored out to 1200 with high comp pistons) bike engine drops a valve whilst doing 10,000 rpm.
  8. 1998 Escort Van Rad Fan

    All of this is on my petrol engined Escort: on my Escort the fan switch is in the top hose and there's a solenoid switch(near the battery) under the bonnet on the right (?) side, as you look at it from the front (it's on the left on mind because it's L-Hand drive). The switch on the top is for the A/C and the signal to the computer, which then sends one to the temp gauge, is at the bottom of the thermostat's housing. The fan switch is totally manual with no input from anything electrical, so it could just be a failure of this switch.
  9. Head Swap 1.8 Diesel

    I suspect the compression ratio is lower on the turbo engine and they may have lowered it by using bigger combustion chambers. Turbo engines on petrol engines usually have a lower compression ratio before the turbo boosts it, but after being boosted it's obviously higher. Does it seem to turnover faster, easier? You could skim the head, if the comp ratio is the problem, but by how much is hard to say. You could try googling the compression ratios of turbo and non turbo to check. Other than above: did you take the fuel pump off and if you did is the pump timing correct now? I assume the head gasket is OK. No bad air leaks or blocked fuel filters?
  10. Snapped Cam Belt

    I would get the engine leak-down tested as this will tell you if you need to take the head off or not. You don't need the cambelt attached to do a leak-down test as the air is blown in when the valves are at Top Dead Centre (unlike a compression test) and I think we can safely assume that valves are now in the closed position, unless they are bent, of course. No engine gives a 100% leak free reading and a main dealer, or tuning garage, should be able to tell you what is normal for a Ford Escort. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester
  11. Tyres

    I think they must be more well known in Germany and Poland as they are made in Germany. I fitted a couple of the these on the back. I didn't go with the Eco tyres as I thought if I get caught out with early snow(before I can fit my snow tyres) then they won't grip at all, whereas the CARAT PROGRESSO have a more open tread and so will give better grip in this situation. On the first day of proper snow here there's lots of accidents because some people don't put their snow tyres on until it snows. Garages that I asked here seemed to rate them as a good average grip and price tyre better than others around this price. As it's an old 1.6 estate(#) I think these are good enough. I forgot to mention that I'm replacing some very old P6000s so there's not much that could be worse. http://www.tyretest.com/summercar_tyres/fulda/carat_progresso/index.html # I certainly wouldn't buy them if I owned a Mercedes slk - look at the review: 22/07/2011 from Bob. lol what did he expect for the money!
  12. Escort Van 55 Lacking Power!!!?

    Hello. I was talking in general because as they get old the rubber pipes start to harden and split. The usual place on old diesels is the leak off pipes/ return pipes between the injectors but all pipes should be checked. Often you can't see the cracks because they open and close depending on if the engine is running and so moving because of torque reaction, but usually there's a damp patch on the pipe where some diesel has weeped out. If I remember correctly Vauxhalls have a problem with the fuel filter casting which is porous. The reason I said a bad leak in the other post was that airleaks are usually pumped through after a bit of rough running and poor starting so to cause a constant problem it would have to be very bad. I suppose you have given it a good service recently as in air + fuel filter. I don't suppose it's clutch slip either, is it? I had a bloke at work once ask me what I thought was wrong with his car because it had "no power", neglecting to mention that it was revving it's nuts of when climbing hills with "no power". .....also not mentioning the smell there must have been!
  13. Noise

    Hello. Has rubbish built up behind the plastic grill where the wipers are or in the slot which is the air intake for the blower, which is also in the centre and down a bit.
  14. A Miracle!

    I just thought I'd add that this caused an intermittent rev counter problem as in that it would stop from time to time, which increasingly got worse, as in it would stop working more often and for longer. I expect it was because the timing became further and further out as the channel in the pulley wore. There must be a crank and cam sensor, else how would it know!? The taco has worked fine ever since this was fixed.
  15. What are they

    "Have you got anything without spam in it?" Spam wonderful spam.