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Found 54 results

  1. I have been having problems with what is a common fault on my 2004 1.6 Fusion Auto where it goes into engine fail, fault codes always show either throttle pedal or throttle body. I have changed the pedal and throttle body and over the last year I have been working on the ECU plug. Its so intermittant that it can clear by moving any part. Then next time, takes days to settle down. It could be the ECU but if it is sent off for testing it will no doubt come back as fine. My garage has been advising and they have seen similar before so its just a game of chasing and checking everything. So just before I bite the bullet to replace the ECU I want to check all connectors between the ECU and throttle components. Are there any in line connectors and where are they? Does anyone have a wiring digram that has this level of detail so that I can inspect all connections. Thanks Peter
  2. Hey guys, long time lurker but this is my first post. I have had speedo issues with my mk6. I have had the VSS replaced and the didn't work, the auto electrician said it was the ECU. Are they just chop and change? I've noticed people selling it with keys / ignition barrels. Has anyone here changed an ECU before? Is there anything to keep an eye out for and could someone please help me find the right one for my car, as it seems to me the serial numbers are unique on them. Thanks :) Curtis
  3. Hello All New to this forum and to FORD Have this very interesting problem with my Ford Mondeo MK4 2009 2.0TDCI Manual Titanium with Button start. It had a small crash to front passenger side (UK model so left) knee airbag deployed along with both front seat belts. I have replaced Airbag and Seatbelts, cleared codes but did not replace Airbag ECU as was able to delete crash data (there was an option on diagnostic device I was using) and that worked. No airbag light no problems with that. BUT The car will not start if I press the start button. (bought car after crash so don't know if its linked with crash) I have checked all fuses. (clear) Checked Starter( works) Thing we found is that Starter relay receives signal when button pressed, Clutch pressed it sends signal to engine ECU but earth does not come from ECU. If you give earth directly to starter Relay and push button car starts. SO engine ECU does not give EARTH to Starter Relay. I have also checked the wire that goes from relay to ecu and it is not damaged. Any smart people out there that know anything about it? Any questions i will answer asap Could it be linked to the crash? but never heard of that before as we did have other cars that start and drive after crash with airbags deployed.
  4. Hello, would anyone per chance happen to have a wiring/pin out dagram for a bosch pcm/ecu 7m51-12a650-ua Many thanks in advance for any assistance ( :
  5. Strange EGR Problems

    Hello, I have a 2011 mk2.5 Ford Focus TDCi 70k mi. I am having problems with the car entering Limp mode as soon as i do 10-15 minutes of motorway driving. Restarting the car instantly gets the car out of Limp mode, but the problem will reappear soon after. I diagnosed using my ELM327 and I've got 2 errors: P0490 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit HighP042F Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Stuck Closed I took my car to the Ford service and they changed the EGR Valve 2 times in order to exclude a bad new EGR valve, but unfortunately the problem is still there. After that, they changed the EGR plug hoping that will solve it, but nothing changed. They did an ECU software update and still nothing. I am uploading a printscreen with Forscan monitoring when the car is in Limp mode and the EGR is stuck closed regardless of the enginge RPM. Notice the LL_EGRTV variable is showing "Not Learnt". That makes me think my car is having trouble learning the new EGR valve parameters. I have to mention I had a minor crash in my front left wheel 4 months ago and considering the ECU is just near it, maybe that is the cause. Did anyone encountered a similar problem? Any idea on how I can solve this? Thank you.
  6. Pcm problem or wiring?

    Hey i have a focus that is causing me no end of trouble. First didn't idle right and would cut out now and again. The intermittent power steering on cold or dam/wet days Then all the gauges would fly up and down no power steering, turn it off and started all fine again. Then cut out all together rac called out restarted it. Had a new battery & alternator. That worked for a week, but engine light was on. monday loss of power steering while driving, all haywire with the gauges again. Power steering wouldn't come back on. Left it an hour all was fine. Next day went to start it all dash lights flashing, multiple malfunctions and it's died. Garage are saying it's down to the pcm! But are not 100% sure it will solve the issue Any advice??
  7. 2003 Fiesta 1.25: had problems with the fiesta overheating even though temp gauge says normal temp on dashboard. After box ticking all the usual culprits (relays, fuses, isolating fan to test it works which it does etc) found out it's the ECU ignoring any messages from the temperature sensor. Decided to bypass the ECU by cutting through the top radiator hose and fitting an aftermarket inline sensor adapter and temperature gauge with sensor. Has anybody fitted one of these so that it works the aftermarket gauge as well as kicking the fan in when the engine starts to overheat. Please could you give me some advice as there are no instructions or wiring diagrams and electrics aren't my thing or if anyone knows of any YouTube videos that are actually useful that would also be appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Hi, I have had an Auto-electrician look at an long standing overheating problem and diagnosed to a possible ECU to relay signal issue. We have replaced the fan assembly (multiple faults), and checked the temperature sensors and ECU function - all ok. He said that he has tried to get pin-out information for the ECU from his reference sources and also direct from Ford who have not been at all helpful. I approached the local dealership and requested same info from their service bay, they also refused saying that they are required to carry out their own diagnostics at £80.00 an hour. Can anyone give me the pin out from the ECU to fan relay please? Ford Fiesta Zetec, 1.25, 2009, 3-door.
  9. Hello everyone, I wondered if anyone could help... I have a Focus Mk2.5 Titanium 1.8 TDCi - 58 Reg. Last night, the red battery light came on on my dash when I was driving to the gym. I went to the gym, came out and the car started fine but light remained on. This morning, I started the car and the battery (red), ABS (amber) and the Slip Indicator/Stability Control Fault Indicator (red) lights were on. The stereo also made a loud humming/buzzing sound depending how loud the volume was turned up, so I turned it down and turned the car off then jumped on the bus to work! Any ideas what this might be? The battery died in November and I replaced it with a brand new one... Alternator or ECU maybe? I will also add that the cigarette lighter is always powered, I have to unplug my dash cam every time I turn the car off otherwise it will stay powered on through the cigarette lighter - not sure if this is linked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy Friday!
  10. 2011 Fiesta Zetec S ECU location

    Hi Guys, i need to find the EMS number from my ECU on my 2011 Ford Fiesta Zetec S to see if it can be re-mapped, apprently is next to the battery and is clearly labelled but i cannot see it? Any help would be much appreciated Thanks again Chris
  11. Ecu Replament Question

    Hi, I working on a 2008 Focus Cmax 1.6 Tdci Manual and the ECU is damaged and requires replacing so I'm looking to replace ecu,fusebox, keys, clocks etc but the problem I'm having is finding an ECU with partnumber: 8M51-12A650-LC does anyone know if I have to replace with this exact part number or are any other partnumbers interchangeable as I'm having a hard time finding the exact spares over here in Ireland. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
  12. We bought a 1999 Galaxy last week. It was to be. For a couple of days when we would buy dog food, the engine stopped suddenly, we got started it and went home, it stayed a couple of times on the way home. Once home, I opened the bonnet, then I discovered batterits negative terminal set fully loose and rattled! Could it be the reason that the MCU has received a problem ?? Start starter goes as it should, but no spark !! /Bertil
  13. Hi, I have a 2009 Ford fiesta 1.6 diesel Tdci and have a a starting problem for a while now. The issue is that when the car is cool it will start 100% of the time every time even if i go out to it very early in the morning when it is super cold. However once i have driven the car and parked it and left it for anywhere between 10 minutes to an hour the car won't start or might take 6 attempts of turning the key even having to press the gabs pedal down in order for it to start. Taken it to an auto electrician and no fault with wiring, now taken to ford and told ecu not working and going to cost 1600 quid??? i find that hard to believe as the car always starts cold!!! Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks
  14. Hi, If anyone could give me any advice on this problem it would be appreciated alot, I have been searching through the Internet and not 100% sure of the answer so I was hoping someone out there could. Ford fiesta ghia 2002 100000 miles Basically the car was running fine up until this point and the car began to run at a lower idling rate then normal under 1000 revs, causing a small juddering at points when first starting the car. This has got worse over the next week to a point where it is now juddering pretty much constantly and being under powered now when driving and can kick back in 5 miles back down the road which is not great along with the engine light showing yellow and flashing/being on constant. Sometimes now when turning it on for the first time it will stall instantly due to idling at 900ish revs now as has worsen. I have taken it into the garage, they have change, Spark plugs and the leads Coil pack Afew hours of playing with the for me cleaning our bits. Lucky they have only charged me around 60 pounds so far. They changes done by the garage worked for a day or less then back to the same problems. They are not sure now at the garage what to do next due to the car only being worth between 500-100 pounds. Any advice on what the problem could be and how to fix ? Thank you very much for any advice any one can give little or big. Will check this forum if anymore information needed if I've left any out. Some has mentioned something to do with an ecu but I do not have much knowledge around cars so unsure. Thank you.
  15. I have got now several times same issue that Focus 2006 1.8TDCi informs me about Engine System Fault and then Acceleration reduced. This usually within a minute after I start the engine. I replaced the battery already but no help. After cleaning the errors from ECU I can restart the engine and continue driving normally without any issues. Could this be caused by the common instrument cluster issue mentioned in many forums? If so what is the correct (low budget) fix for that? Thanks! When I scan the error codes I will get the lists below Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ U0001: null U0073: null U0121: null U0131: null U0140: null U0155: null U2197: null Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- P0571: Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit U1900: null U2012: null U2200: null End of report. Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ U0001: null U0001: null U0073: null U0073: null U0121: null U0121: null U0131: null U0131: null U0140: null U0155: null U2197: null U2197: null Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- P0571: Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit P1622: null U1900: null U2200: null End of report. Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ U0001: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0073: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0121: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0131: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0140: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0155: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2197: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- U1900: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2012: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2200: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2510: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web End of report.
  16. Best ECU remap?

    Hello world! My name is Kevin. Yeah, I know it's a english name, but I'm from italy, so I'm sorry if my english is not so good. I'm going to remap my 1.0 litre 100 hp ST-Line Ford Fiesta. I don't want to destroy the engin and the gearbox, so I'd just like to obtain about 140 hp and 200 / 2010 nm of torque. I read my Ford-Getrag IB5 gearbox is tested for 200 nm of torque, and it would be safe to get about 210 nm. So I'm looking for a quite good conservative map. I read something about Monotune, but it's not available in Italy and only can be installed on the 125 hp engine. Bluefin.... Meh, I don't like it so much: I could get about 250 nm of torque with it, and I'm worried about the gearbox reliability. I discovered a REVO dealer in my town that looks very professional, but I didn't find anything about revo remap on italian and english forums... Stage 1 promises about 140-145 hp and 210 nm of torque with 95-ron gasoline, so it looks perfect to me. What do you think about it? And what about the garbox? Will it be fine with it? I know Ford implemented a torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear on 1.0 Ecoboost 140ps and I don't think revo remap will respect its limits. But I also noticed this: stock 140 ps goes from 0 to 60 mph (0-100 KM/H) in about 9 seconds, Revo mapped 100 hp engine time is 8,9 seconds, so very similar to the stock engine. Do you think Revo still using a torque limiter? Thank you!
  17. Hello! A few months ago, while my mechanic was replacing the turbine, probably for the battery left disconnected, he accidentally deactivated my rear parking sensors (together with the electric windows memory to go up and down with a long-press of the button). I didn't come back immediately because when I noticed the issue, I was far away; they reside far from me and I'm always around for my job; but that's OT. The sensors were fitted by the Ford dealer where I bought the car, back in 2008. So the car came out of the production line without them. I was wondering if it's possible to re-activate them with ELMConfig. I tried to search in all configurations, but I'm unable to find anything useful, at least at first sight. Do you have any idea? In your experience, is it possible to re-activate the sensors in ELMConfig? Thanks in advance.
  18. Would appreciate it if anyone could help or share their experience if they had a similar issue. My MK2 Focus (1.6 TDCI), the check engine light doesn't work. When i turn the ignition on, every light comes on but this one. My car has had faults that would turn it on but never did. However there is a twist. When a SCAN TOOL (Not a basic code reader) is plugged in, it reads all the codes. This means whenever the car has a fault, the MIL light doesn't come on, thus my code reader cant read it. I did some digging up and there is no electrical tape on the MIL light. The ECM (3A) fuse and other engine management fuses were also replaced and the OBD-II port is fine as my code reader detects the I/M readiness and all other checks. I have a new battery too so can't be any of these. I would really appreciate if anyone has any insights as this is causing a lot of headache for me and is actually really unsafe as i have no clue when something goes wrong until the car sputters or stops working.
  19. Hi All, We have a Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi. Recently it was left untouched for just over a week. When I went to start it, it wouldn't - immobiliser active apparently. A bit of googling suggested a low battery *could* cause this - and we've known the car to have issues with the battery draining for no apparent reason. So I tried jump leads. No joy... So we got a mechanic in. Long story short, it seems I may have fried the ECU with my jump leading... However, the mechanic DID manage to start the car .... albeit for a minute or so before it cut out again. Initially he reckoned the ECU was dead - but now seems to think he can fix it (the ECU) ... and we could then avoid the expense of replacing the ECU and trailering the car to Ford for reprogramming, *if* we can find the spare key (which of course we can't!) - as he thinks the "main" key is dead (moreso than just a new battery). But since it did start for a minute or so, can the ECU be that dead? I can understand how the jump leads may have frazzled the ECU - but I don't get why the "main" key is now useless? How could the jump leads have killed a remote keyfob??!! Bracing myself for the situation that the ECU cannot be fixed and needs replacing - I've spoken to a local Ford dealer, who admitted he wasn't sure, but seemed to think we'd need both keys if we did end up needing to recode it all - surely that can't be right - we can't be the first people to be in this situation? Any idiot proof advice welcome!
  20. Hello! I've a problem with a Ford Focus MK2 and looking for advice as I don't want to run into mad costs, here's a quick introduction on what happened: Battery went flat - as radio and lights were turn on for too long without engine turned on. Car was jump started - it gained power back again, however it won't start. On ignition the lights on dashboard light up and it says 'Engine systems fault' and there's no error codes on OBD reader. Immobilizer is also rapidly flashing in red, then it starts giving a PATS code. Just as a note on ignition something in the engine makes noise - but it doesn't sound like any mechanical component. Could that be possible that instrument cluster forgot the keys? Are there any next steps I can take to solve the problem myself or with help of electrician? Looking forward hearing from you. Thank you! Adam
  21. Hi all, I have a 2009 fusion 1.6 Zetec tdci which after a short trip to the shops (less than a mile) parked up at home but noticed that the radiator fan was still running, this went on for 30 mins or so until I decided to unplug it from its loom. Came back a few minutes later re-attached the fan which started spinning straight away and tried to start her up, she cranked over a couple of times slowly as if the battery was drained but failed to start. Left it again for a few minutes and tried again, this time turned the ignition on, all lights showing normal but she wouldn't turn over, turned the key again and got the same, dash lights come on no clicking sound as there normally is. just nothing. Battery is showing as having 12 volts, all fuses behind the glove compartment checked and they were fine, connected it up to a charger/jumper unit and nothing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
  22. Hi all, Just joined this forum on behalf of my dad who is having a number of issues which we can not seem to solve, so any help here is much appreciated! Dad owns a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X Sport 2.0 Eco Boost Auto with 14k miles on the clock, owned it for about 2 years now. A couple of months ago the car started to play up where the key fob would unlock the car but the wing mirrors wouldn't open out, the push to start button would not start the car but the instrument display would show the Ford logo. AA man came round, disconnected the battery for about 10 mins then the car was ok and started up. Couple of days later same thing happened so dad did what the AA man did and was ok, but then the car wouldn't turn off! It is an Auto so couldn't stall it. Took it to Fords while running and the guys come out and agreed that it wouldn't stop. Eventually the car did turn off after pressing the on/off start button a few times. Left the car with Fords to investigate and they said that there was nothing wrong with it after doing the Vagcom/diagnostic checks etc. Paid about £300 for this so far. They gave the car back to us and it was ok for a day or so until the same thing happened. Ford then flashed the internal computer and updated all the firmware etc and the car was ok. Today (about 2/3 months later) dad went to start his car and nothing, the key fob wouldn't open the car and even using the internal key in the fob would not open the doors! Ford have said they have never seen this before and don't know what to suggest, so we have a car we are unable to get into. Dad has tried both key fobs and tried every possible thing we can think of. Has anyone on the forum experienced this before or have any ideas as to what it could be!? Any help/suggestions are welcome. Thanks,
  23. Hi all, CMAX 2.0 Zetec Auto 2008 I have severe electrical issues at present (central locking, dashboard not showing indicators/lights & has engine electrics warning, now wipers stopped working last night). I believe i need a new internal fuse box (GEM/ECU ??) to replace the one in the passenger well of my CMAX which seems to have been damaged by water ingress. The part number is 7M5T 14a073 CC Apparently ford installed a blanket fuse box with all electrical functionality for the entire range ready to be programmed dependant upon the model sold with, but I have no idea what the part number is. Is it correct that any fuse box starting with: 7M5T 14a073 C... will work and just needs to be coded or do i need to find either exactly the same (CC) or the next letter along i.e. CD,CE,CF which i assume have higher functionality than the existing?? I have found one fusebox online 7M5T 14a073 CF that looks similar, apparently fits 2008 cmax models but I urgently need some guidance. cheers, GF2K
  24. Hi, my Ford Focus 1.6 Diesel has a fault with the Air Conditioning and I am at a loss now as to what to do. My air conditioning is not working and has never worked since I purchased the car second hand from a private dealer. I have taken it to an Air condition Specialist who told me that it was topped up to the correct level, and had no leaks he could see. He told me it must be an electrical fault which he could not fix, some specialist!. Anyway I took his advice and took the car to an auto electrician who checked out the pressure switches and said they were ok. he then read the fault codes and said there were none he could read. He then left and charged me for what he had done. still the Air Con does not work. :( I manualy cycled the pump shorting the relay pins out and the air con worked fine and came out icy cold? The Relay has voltage at the pins to power the pump and has been replaced and still no luck. Somthing is not switching the relay over to turn the aircon on? The Fuses are all fine and it is a non climate control version. As most people these days, I have little money to spare and this car is draining me of every penny I have :( Could anyone PLEASE HELP me with this problem as short of taking out a Morgage and going to a Ford Dealer, I am at a total loss as to what to do. Thanks for Reading
  25. Focus Mk1 Wiring Problem

    I have a 1998 MK1 focus, manual, petrol. There is intermittent failure to start: when you turn the key against the 'resistance' of the switch, there is no sound ( no clicking ). The battery is OK and occasionally the thing just suddenly bursts into life. I therefore assume it's the ignition switch or the starter relay (R17). I removed the starter relay. When ign is ON, but before you go to 'start', there is 12V at pin 1 of the relay ( as expected ) but the relay doesn't pull in because pin 2 ( earth connection ) isn't making it to earth. The wire goes to a contact on the ECU, apparently. At this point I'm stuck: why does it go to the ECU and not to the body-work? How should I proceed? Bruce