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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Found 35 results

  1. Hi, I've got a mk7 Fiesta and want to fit LED halo rings onto the fog surrounds. I have seen a few places I can buy them but my question is how easy are they to fit? I' hoping someone who has already done them can help me out! This is what I found... https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/fiesta-mk7-5-2013-2017/products/drl-indicator-led-ring-kit https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/fiesta-mk7-5-2013-2017/products/ambient-led-ring-kit Many thanks !!!
  2. Hi guys, it's my first post on the forums and I wish it was a better one. I bought a 2008 MK2.5 1.8tcdi focus around 3 weeks ago and it broke down today I got a check engine light about 30 miles ago and today pulling out of the driveway I got the warning chime and a readout saying power steering failure. Then the car shut down and there has being no power since, not even central locking or interior/dash lights. When I had a look under the bonnet here was smoke, possibly from the alternator. Has anyone experienced something similar?
  3. Evening all, If I use the drivers window control to operate the passenger window it lowers as normal when I press the switch to lower but also lowers when I press the switch to raise the window. If I use the passenger window control it works fine. Any ideas? Cheers, Milly
  4. Hi guys, After trying to find out as much info that I could to fit a heated screen into my son's Fiesta, we have now hit a brick wall. So, I'm wondering whether anybody has successfully fitted one and if so can they point me in the right direction. So this is where we're up to so far: We have had the heated screen fitted into a 2004 (54plate) Mk6 Fiesta Flame 1.4 Petrol. Unfortunately we were not lucky enough to find any wiring behind the pillar covers. So, we set about sourcing the various bits that we needed. I fitted a double switch (front and rear) in place of the existing rear heated screen switch. The connector was wired for both switches, which I took to be a good sign. Next, after purchasing cable that was man enough to handle the current for the screen, I ran a feed to both sides of the screen and connected each of them to a 32A fuse. From the fuses I then connected those to pin 5 of a Ford 70A relay (which I have mounted into the fuse box) I connected both of the earth tags on the screen to the pillar earth points. The next job was to get power to the relay which I did by running a cable from the FH 60A terminal in the engine bay fusebox and connected that to pin 3 of the relay. Pin 1 of the relay is the supply from Fuse 38 (Ignition) which I spliced into near the fusebox (that took some tracing!!), and this is also connected to one side of the switch (pin5) Now, this is where the brick wall is. The other side of the switch (pin 8) and pin 2 from the relay go to the GEM. I have looked at the GEM and there are no wires in the connecting loom from the switch (although the switch connection has the wire), nor (obviously) is there on from the relay. I understand that the GEM would control the timing that the screen was on etc. So, I have a question, would I be able to piggy back onto the heated rear screen GEM connections and understand that the screen would/may only work if the heated rear window is switched on? Or is there another way round wiring it all in but bypassing the GEM, but still being able to use the original switch? We really want to try to get this to work as my other son has just bought, yes you've guessed it, a Fiesta Flame without a heated screen! Apologies for a long winded post, and hope that it makes sense to someone. Cheers Paul
  5. Learn to Solder

    So how do i start this other than saying, being in this industry for so many years i have seen the brilliant to the extreme cowboy.Check my wheels tv will be providing video tutorials starting at the basics ranging up to the high voltage,Which is where the world is heading towards, we would of all heard about the 2040 big news and how not one combustion engine will be produced in the u.k and most likely europe for that matter. I belive we need to raise the awarness of how important, 1. Auto electrics are in todays world and 2. How important it is in tommorows world. I would like to know everybodies thoughts on this topics as well, not of the learning topic but more of the 2040. What type of business are you in and the effects of this new law. If there is enough interest in this then i will be making a topic of discussion just for this reason. please memember to subscribe to the youtube channel if you would like to learn and future videos thanks.
  6. mk3 towbar electrics

    Hi folks, Been reading a lot about towbar fitting to the mk3 focus. Fitted a Westfalia towbar today and have the module 1786386 to fit. Stripped out the boot and found the little green plug, which has the four wires in, I presume I only now need the wiring kit 1832019 to complete the installation.Am I correct? I have a modified ELM327 and both Forscan and Focccus software to enable the module etc. Colin.
  7. Wiring diagrams

    I'm trying to find on the wiring diagrams, that someone kindly supplied on these forums, the plug that connects the AC blowers and heaters but I'm struggling to find it... Anyone know what they are technically called?
  8. Hi folks, I've been having a problem with the OS rear indicator. At first, I thought it was a blown bulb, but a new one isn't fixing the problem. I have no other apparent issues with any other lights, just this one which won't illuminate and, as such, has the front and repeater going bonkers. I haven't managed to check anything else, but the wiring seemed fine around the cluster area. I don't have a manual or anything, so if I need to find something to check, I'll probably need pointing towards it, please. Cheers.
  9. Hello, I have had a 2008 Focus 1.8 Zetec for about eight months, and in the last few weeks, I found that the windows (driver and passenger sides) won't operate for around 14 seconds after the ignition is turned on. All the other electrics appear to be working satisfactorily. Anybody got any ideas as to what the cause might be? Phill
  10. Info on the problem. - 2008 Ford Focus 1.6 Style - Auto - 30,000 Miles Short version of what’s wrong with the car and important notes: - Mostly heat related starting problem - The car drives perfectly - There is no injector pulse when fault is occurring, the most important info here is wiggling the wiring harness WILL get the car to start when the car is NOT hot, however when the engine has warmed to normal operating temp wiggling wires will not have any affect which I’m guessing is due to thermal expansion. - ECU has been swapped out with another new one and problem persisted. - Disconnecting the ECT sensor will get the car to start almost 99% reliably. - ECT sensor has been replaced. - Crank sensor has been replaced. - No fault codes ever registered. I have been trying to trace the problem through the wiring harness but it’s proven to be too difficult. The current process I’m using to find the problem is to investigate all sensors and their circuits that have anything to do with fuel injection, the only problem is that I do not have a large knowledge base when it comes to cars. I am wondering if you guys can help me and please be so kind to tell me what sensors you know to affect fuel injection and if you’ve ever heard of such a problem before or know of anything that could help. I have a scanning tool and have been inspecting how certain sensors work and everything seems to be fine (voltages .etc) to my knowledge which again isn’t vast. I have had a friend bridge the whole ECT sensor circuit to eliminate it and sure enough the problem is not regarding the ECT circuit. I’m getting close to having to give up a perfectly good car all because of some stupid wiring problem. Thank you for any help, it is much appreciated.
  11. Relay Guide

    Where can I get info on which relay does what? Background I have three non-functional circuits: washer pump, boot latch, drivers door controls. And I clearly need #1 fixed before next week's MOT. I have just proved it's not a problem in the fuse box. All fuses are sound, making good contact. I pulled the fuse for the boot latch, inserting instead my multimeter, and proved that when the circuit activates there is a voltage on that circuit. But even with the fuse replaced there is no characteristic sound of the latch itself activating. So my guess is that #1 and #2 could be due to blown relay(s). But the handbook doesn't want to give you info on that (for obvious reasons). Or alternatively, anyone got an idea what (other than fuses) would take out three circuits? Back Story A 4-year-old focus -- one morning we find it completely unresponsive -- turns out battery is totally dead. Three days later the battery is charged, reinstalled, and I find that there is a blown fuse for the central console resulting in no music options. I replaced the fuse and I thought all was well, till my wife pointed out that some circuits are not working. I checked and re-checked every fuse in the car [other than the irrelevant ones in the inaccessible boot] and have today confirmed that it's not a fuse-box problem. thanks for any pointers, NIc
  12. Can anyone out there help please, I cannot open roof storage lid on my daughters KA Convertible, normally I would press the button on the driver’s side door frame and that would open the lid to store the roof, but now when I press that button it does not open. I can open the lid manually from inside the boot, so mechanically everything works, but if you store the roof it blocks access to the mechanism, so you can't open the lid to get the roof back up. I think it’s either the switch itself or the switch mounted under the lid which moves the locking mechanism (see attachment). Anyone else had the same issue or knows how to fix the problem?
  13. First of all, hello, all! I bought a 2004 streetKA yesterday at a bargain price. I was made aware that the central locking only worked with the key in the door. I took the car anyway and decided to get as far as I could before seeking advice...So, here goes! 1 - The key fob communicates with the car. 2 - Pressing the lock button causes the passenger side to lock, then unlock; drivers door remains silent; no lights flash. 3 - the key in the drivers door locks both doors. 4 - the key in passenger door locks the passenger door, then unlocks again. 5 - if I press the lock button on the key fob, whilst simultaneously, manually locking the drivers door causes the lights to flash, as the manual says, to show that the central locking has worked. 6 - if I disconnect the drives door like/trunk wiring and then press lock on the key fob, the lights flash and the passenger door locks. 7 - at no point has the alarm seemed to arm. It has not sounded or given me any indication that it's on. That's as detailed as I have been with diagnostics. Here are my queries: Would this have an affect on the alarm system not arming or am I looking at separate issues? (I've changed fuse 33, still nothing) How do I get the locking motor out of the door and where is it? I'm no electrician but with your guys' help, I might be able to solve the alarm problem! Thanks in advance! Perry
  14. Door electrical connector

    Hi, My Left front door speaker isn't working. I believe the problem is with the connector at the door. However i can't get this out to inspect the connections behind it on the car side (i.e. not the door) Can anyone tell me how to get this connector out. I can see behind it if i get my torch right in behind the glove compartment and i think i can see a broken lead there. I have tried wiring the left speaker direct running an additional wire through, everything worked ok. However a day later the alternator failed. I pulled everything out and removed it to see if the initial warning light was from the electrical work i have added. So now i am back to square one with no left speaker. My mechanic said the electrics are so complicated these days any extra wiring (perhaps even on the stereo) could have thrown up a fault. Is this true? Will i do any harm doing a direct wire to this speaker?? Any advice welcome. Cheers Brett
  15. Hi, I wonder if any of you might be able to help with this one? I've had a good look through the past posts and haven't seen anything that's quite the same as this. I bought the car second hand in August of last year from my local Ford dealer and starting in October I had an engine fault develop. When accelerating in 6th from about 55/60MPH the car would sometimes hit what I'd describe as a limiter. The revs would climb steadily, and then be dramatically reduced only for them to climb again before being reduced again, this would happen continuously until I reached about 3500 RPM and it leveled out. It doesn't do this every time, but does it most often when the engine is under a small load, I.e going up a long, slight hill. My car has been in and out of the local Ford dealer and they have been unable to recreate the fault despite me having footage of it occurring, to make it even more difficult to diagnose, it doesn't leave behind a fault code! They've updated software but that hasn't helped, have any of you got an idea of what could be happening / how I can get them for repair it? I've got another 2 years of dealer warranty so I may as well make the most of it! Here's some footage of the fault. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00fSxFvn76c Cheers, Chris
  16. I have a 2005 Mk2 Focus 1.6 tdci Sometimes on starting I get a message saying "steering assist failure" followed by "engine systems fault" and then the engine won't turn. A Ford mechanic told me to slap the dash board. It works! It has even happened while driving and again a slap fixes it. Please can someone tell me what I can do to get a proper solution? Thanks
  17. First this, I've got a Ford Focus 1.6 Setec S What are these wires for? When trying to find a AUX input on my car I came across these wires. They fit to the back of the button board below the Clumate control/ above the 12V plug. I've tried looking for pictures of other models and the only buttons I can find are, passenger air bag, or central locking? Can someone confirm what they are, and if it would be possible to buy a button and then have the car feature. Thank you:)
  18. Hi all I've just purchased a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Zetec focus and all seems well apart from the cranking speed. Not having had one before I don't know if it's normal for these but it feels like an old tractor starting, very slow and chuggy but does always start. It's almost like an old engine where the glow plugs have failed. I'm going to check voltages and earths etc but wondered if there are any common things to look out for? Thanks Mow
  19. Hi all, I hope someone can give me some advice I bought a 2011 1.6 TDCi S-Max in January to replace my written off Mondeo. Since I have had it, I have had nothing but niggles with electrical systems in the car. It started out with the bonnet claiming to be open when it was firmly closed and the alarm going off because of it, and a speaker in the dash that wasn't working. The dealer cleaned up the bonnet catch and hey presto the bonnet registered as closed and the alarm stopped waking up the neighbours in the night. I've been trying to find a good day to get it in to look at the wiring for the speaker as it works intermittently, sometimes crackling, sometimes with good sound and sometimes not working at all. I have had other issues crop up in the last week though: The parking sensors beeping at me when I'm driving forwards slowly The radio console not lighting up at all - after pressing some buttons the CD player worked, but I couldn't change it to radio or turn it off without turning off the ignition The near-side windows would only open half an inch, and go up again, but not open more than half an inch All of these things have spontaneously resolved. And now the bonnet is claiming to be open again and the alarm keeps going off. I love the car but might go all Basil Fawlty on it at this rate . The dealer has been very helpful, but I have limited time I can let them have the car to fiddle about with. My concern is that it's something major rather than lots of niggly dodgy connections. I would be grateful for any pointers so that I can steer the dealer in the right diection rather than waste time. Many thanks
  20. Help Please

    ive bought a 2010 mondeo 18tdci came to it this morning and all the electrics inside have gone faulty engine runs fine. electric windows, central locking, indicators , heater, no lights on the dash speedo and rev counter not moving sometimes a message comes up saying engine faulty and imobliser active but engine is running fine. Does anybody have a clue what this could be, any input would be appreciated thanks
  21. Hi all, I have a 2011 Ford Focus 1.6 titanium. Earlier on I was driving and I noticed when I turned into a corner that the power steering cut off half way through the corner, I straightened up and it seemed to sort itself. I stopped to check and could see nothing wrong with the wheels and there was no fluid leeking. I got back in the car and everything seemed okay, about two miles down the road, the power steering went completely. This was followed by all the elctrics cutting out apart from the backlit dash, the needles all fell to 0 and all the warning lights came on. I parked up and switched the ignition off. I went and had another look and could see nothing wrong. I jumped back into the car and tried to start it but to no avail, It wouldn't start. I got a jump start and the car started fine and all the warning lights were off. I drove a further 7 miles with no faults. When I arrived at work I check the voltage to the battery, when the engine was off it was reading 12.5v, when idling it was reading 15v and when revving it read the same (this seems rather high). The car then sat for around 7 hours. I went back out to drive home expecting that the alternator was the cause of my problems but It started fine and I drove home, 16 miles with no problems atall. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem?? I've been looking for someone with similar problems and I have found alot of people having problems with the regulator, However, I recon that i'm just looking for anything to be faulty at this stage. Thanks, Hunter
  22. Headlamps Not Working (Low Beam)

    Hi all, I have a Ford focus titanium 58 plate 1.6tdci This evening whilst a sort of crackling sound appeared to come from the glove box. Did a round of checks and everything seemed to be fine. Later on a car adjacent to me told me just my side lights were on. The bulbs are definitely fine so any suggestions as to where I could look as I now cannot drive at night unless I put my full beam on. Many thanks in advance
  23. Hi folks - new poster here :) I'm doing a front-end rebuild of a crash-damaged Mark 2 Focus.I've had some work done that I couldn't do myself, and I've been left with these things (they were just left in the passenger footwell). Any idea what they are, and whether I actually need them? (It's possible some new ones were fitted - I'll check that once I know what they are and where they live... ) Cheers in advance :)
  24. Unexplained Battery Drain

    I've just had my first encounter with unexplained battery drain on a 2010 reg S-Max Ecoboost. Car was last used on a Thursday afternoon, and battery was dead by Sunday morning, registering just under 6V on a meter. The lights were not left switched or left on overnight. The AA came over, and jump-started the vehicle - the battery started charging immediately at the correct voltage - the battery is receiving charge so it is OK, and the alternator is OK as well. After about 10 minutes the AA technician turned the engine off - the lights, radio and other electrical systems appeared to switch off when the engine was cut. He then measured the level of ambient discharge/drain from the battery. This was where it started becoming odd. While it can take some time for the car to shut down completely, this was what was observed: - For about 5 min, the level of discharge remained at 0.4A for about 5 minutes, but every now and then it would spike up momentarily to about 1-2A and then stabilize at 0.4A - After about another 3-5 min, the drain decreased steadily to 0.3A, then 0.2A and 0.1A after which measurements were stopped. The AA advised me have the electrics checked out by Ford as they weren't sure of what the problem was. Anyone has a clue? It'll be helpful before I take the car in and end up paying money to diagnose where the problem lies - which Ford may not detect. Thanks, Ernest
  25. Hi everyone, I'd like to add a few accessories to my motor, such as a tracking device, perhaps a dashcam, etc. I'd like them hard-wired into the fuse box as it'll be more neat, convenient, also allow the cigarette lighter to be used for other purposes, etc. I've seen that people use devices that replace one of the fuses with a pair of slots, and therefore allow a second circuit to be run. This doesn't look ideal to me. I was wondering about the vacant fuse positions in the box. Can they be wired up to the battery easily to allow a new circuit to be added, identically to the ones already present? They appear to be vacant because certain vehicle upgrades, such as a trip computer, are not present in my vehicle snd this seems the logical choice to create new harnesses / circuits for my devices. Thanks all, DrRamore