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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all, I wonder if anyone has had this problem and found the cause - I have a Focus Mk3 2011 (61) 1.6 petrol. 30,000 miles. I have owned it for a year and I have a steadily increasing problem of stalling when sitting in traffic. It will idle fine then if I tap the accelerator or move forward slightly then stop, the revs drop up and down between 300-800 revs then it just dies. Starts again no problem, and no issues when its moving - drives lovely. Anyone else experienced this and if so was there an easy solution? I took it to the garage a while ago and they couldn't find a problem with it - no error codes. Please help! Thank you :) Tony
  2. Sup Guys Could really do with some help. I've got a ford fiesta flight 2001 1.3L endura E engine 89,000 hours. Whenever I start the ignition its start fine every time, but immediately after the ignition the revs drop over a period of 30 seconds until the engine eventually stalls. Regardless of whether I try to raise the revs with the medal, it doesnt help. recently it broke down due "miss firing" after which new ignition/HT leads were fitted. Now this issue has cropped up and I've tried having the battery and spark plugs replaced with no change. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated
  3. Hi All, First post here, unfortunately in need of advice. The speedo on my 2004 MK1 Focus stops working intermittently (stays at 0). This happens approximately every other journey. The odometer also stops recording miles when the speedo stops. This is accompanied by it occasionally stalling when I pull up to a stop as the engine falls back to idle. I have not noticed a lack of power as other people have but this could just be as I am gently driving around town. The same applies for the drop in radio level. I have only noticed the speedo stopping working when I am moving off from stationery (it doesn't seem to stop whilst it is showing a speed). I have only done short journeys since this has started happening (less than 10 mins/3 miles) and it has yet to start working again. When I restart the car it resumes working. Having read other posts here and on other forums I was relieved that it appeared to be the VSS. I got this changed but the same symptoms are occuring. All the other dials are working OK throughout. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I think its unlikely the new VSS is faulty. Incidently it was replaced by a previous owner in 2009. Thanks in advance... Doug
  4. Gearbox/clutch Problems?

    Hello all, okay so .. yesterday morning I was doing my routine drop off at 6am, after I returned home from the 15mile trip there and back, as I pulled up outside my house and was stationary, I noticed a slight rattling/jolting noise as if the engine were about to stall. it was very minor and I just thought well that's odd.... *shrugs shoulders* and went inside. that same morning I had bigger worries, managed to run over something and get a slow puncture so at the time I was more focused on getting that sorted. Searched around for tyre repair place and waited until 8:30 for it to open, when I turned the engine back on, the car was fine. all the normal sounds, nothing odd... I pressed my foot on the clutch to go into second gear but without going into the gear soon as I pressed the clutch I could hear that same rattling/jolting-like noise! I started to get worried (as you do) and attempted to go into first gear, the rattling gets far worse when going into first gear so I just shut it off. Called mechanic he suspected its the clutch going and he'd need to see it confirm. I have to get the car to the garage, and so got back in and attempted to pull away really slowly in first gear, the car shudders A LOT and rattles A LOT when trying to do this but as soon as I get up enough speed to not have to press the clutch down anymore, the shuddering/rattling is all gone. when I then shift into second gear, that bit between 1st/2nd gear (and all other gear changes) you can feel a little vibrating sensation almost like grinding gears but its very minimal. Also this crazy shuddering when starting off from stationary is not there 100% of the time. I've driven the car a fair bit and it very much comes and goes, sometimes the car will be as if the problem never existed (but the small grinding thing between gear changes is always there though) whilst other times the car feels like something is going to explode. I've taken it to a mechanic and he came out and said he can't really find anything wrong. I personally think the mechanic is just rather blind or not very good...I explained the whole situation to him again and he said he did notice a "noisy clutch" but nothing more, I explained that yeah thats the problem I've been having its like its going to explode he says its the signs of the clutch needing to be replaced very soon. I've only had 3 cars this is my 3rd, all the cars I've had were second hand e.t.c and were sold because of clutch problems coming around the corner so I've had to replace the clutch on all previous cars. the thing is... I've never had a clutch do this before, normally it would just start to slip and get worse an worse as time went on. But not all this shuddering and almost stalling type scenario. Having said that, the two previous cars were big cars. Ford Estate and an a Ford Mondeo. this is the first small car I've owned. (i don't know if that makes a difference) I know i've posted A LOT of information and I really appreciate if you've kept reading this far, I just really need some accurate advice and want you to know everything that I know to better diagnosis without seeing it physically. I'm worried that its not the clutch, and I would rather spend spend £330-£350 (the price i been quoted so far) to have the clutch replaced would be better spent on the actual problem. Any advice much appreciated!
  5. Gearbox/clutch Problems?

    [EDIT] sorry it posted it twice, please see other post
  6. Mk2 1.6 Tdci Stalling

    Hi All, I have a bit of a problem with my 2005 Mk2 1.6 tdci Focus. It has no DPF, so any problems with that can be discounted. The problems began last winter, when the car would occasionally start up in limp mode on cold mornings. Normally, this was solved by shutting off the ignition, then starting it up again. This issue gradually got worse and the shut down start up again trick worked less often. I bought a cheap OBDII reader off ebay, which pulled off the faults - P0047 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Circuit Low P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow 'A' Circuit Low P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow 'A' Circuit So, as the Turbo works absolutely fine when it's not in limp mode, I bought an after marker Mass Air Flow Sensor and fitted it. This didn't solve the problem, so I took it off and sent it back. Then, about two weeks ago it started stalling at low RPM. It wouldn't start straight away, only after a minute of being switched off. So I took it into a garage to have a diagnostics done on it, which gave the faults - P0483 - Fan Performance Part 1 P135B - Glow Plugs P1632 - Smart Alternator Faults Sensor/Circuit Malfunction P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow 'A' Circuit Low P0047 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Circuit Low P1180 - Fuel Delivery System Malfunction Low P0089 - Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Performance P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off The garage then cleared it and took it for a test run. They said the the fuel faults reappeared along this the MAF (which I informed them I had tried replacing and didn't work). They suggested I might be having problems with the fuel pump, but as it was working, ok at the time, they sent me home with it. The next day I was driving at 70mph in 3rd gear, so most definitely not low RPM and it cut out on me again. At first, I lost all throttle response and as I coasted to a halt, it then stalled. So I called the garage and got it booked in again. I did a bit of exploratory driving later that day, and discovered it was only stalling on a cold engine, so I let the garage know this when I took it in. I also noticed that when left to idle, the rev counter would fluctuate, dipping, then rising, gradually worsening until it stalled. The garage has another look at it, drove it on a cold engine (which cut out on them) and cleared the fault codes again. They tried unplugging the MAF sensor, which they said must be at fault since the car worked better (no stalling) without it plugged in. Since I could get a replacement cheaper than them (OEM from Ford this time!) and was easy to DIY, I picked the car up to fix at home myself. Which brings me to this evening. I drove around for a short while (long enough for the engine to warm up), stopped to get chips and left for home again (the MAF was still unplugged at this point). On my way home the car cut out on me twice. I took it for another spin a bit later, when the engine had cooled down and with the MAF plugged back in. It cut out. I unplugged the MAF, it cut out. I got the engine warmed back up and plugged the MAF back in, and it cut out. I finally unplugged the MAF on a warm engine and it still cut out. So, I'm left with a lot of questions. If the MAF being unplugged no longer makes a difference, is it not at fault? Which fault could it actually be? Could it be all of them? Could it be something unrelated like the ECU itself or maybe a broken cable? I just don't know where to go from here, the car is pretty much undrivable. Any insight would be very much appreciated. * EDIT - Here is a video of the idling fluctuations.
  7. Hi, I have a problem with my 1.6L Mk1.5 Focus, in which the engine will sometimes stall when the car returns to idle, other times it will briefly idle at around 500rpm and then return. This problem is worse when the engine is warm. Let me run you through the events in case they are related: - Two days ago on the way to work, one of the cylinders stopped firing, causing the car to drop idle speed and shake violently. - Yesterday, I bought a new air filter, new NGK TR5A-10 spark plugs, HT leads and Coil Pack which fixed that problem. At this point the car was running much better, but I noticed that the Breather vacuum piping behind the inlet manifold was split and had collapsed in on itself, so I ordered one of these. - Today, I received said Breather hose and fitted, no hissing or any suction outside of the pipe that I was able to hear/feel. However now the engine is idling wrong like I mentioned before. So I went to a scrap yard and bought a new Idle Air Control Valve (as most forums I had looked at deemed this the problem) this one on the inside had a minuscule amount of carbon built up and the valve worked easy and sprung back nicely. Still does not work! I am in the process now of cleaning the old one with some Air system and Carburettor Cleaner and seeing if that will make any difference and will fit tomorrow... Has anyone else had this problem, and if so did you manage to fix it, and if yes then how so... Seems like when one job is finished there is always another one to do! Cheers, Al
  8. Hello everyone, this is my first post, so go easy, but I don't mind constructive criticism! I've had my 2008 Focus Ghia Mk2 2.0l for just over a year. For a few months I've increasingly noticed 2 issues which may or may not be related - Starting with the engine cold takes about 5 or 6 cranks of the starter motor before ignition, when hot it is instantaneous. Four times (twice in cold weather, once in normal, and once in Spain where it was bl***y hot and had been running for several hundred miles!) it has failed to start - got it going after persistance mainly, but a bump start was needed on one occasion. The most concerning issue is what I'm considering an 'idle problem'. When releasing the clutch to engage 1st gear revs drop dramatically from idle ~800RPM down to about 500RPM and will stall if I don't push the accelerator to keep the revs up. A few times it has actually stalled, through no fault of mine. I've cleaned the spark plugs, the threads were a bit oily, but nothing ridiculous. And changed the air filter (which was the wrong size and didn't fit properly). Last night as part of my (failed) attempt to find the idle air control valve I took the throttle body off to see if it needed cleaning: Inlet manifold: https://www.dropbox.com/s/uorxk9k6brfl3b2/2014-03-19%2017.55.15.jpg Throttle body filter side: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0t9unkxw1dugldn/2014-03-19%2017.52.49.jpg Throttle body engine side: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzc72gl8z7if2zf/2014-03-19%2017.52.45.jpg Cleaned the throttle with IPA, and apart from starting a little bit lively this morning, no change to the idle problem. Hopefully someone can help or give me some advice on what to do next. Let me know if you need any more info... talking of which, the car has done 57k miles. Many thanks :)