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Found 19 results

  1. Hi, I want to replace the starter of my fiesta 2010 Diesel. Does anyone know where the starter is located in this model and how to replace it? Thanks in advance Kasun
  2. Hi all, Been some time since I've been active on here! I've actually got rid of my fiesta recently but I'm having problems with my parents Fiesta now. I've noticed that over recent weeks (more days) it's taken a while for the car to start. Yesterday I looked to start the car and it was *very* juddery and finally started. Today I received a phone call from my mum who's mentioned that the car will now no longer start. The battery on the car was recently changed, so I don't think that this is it. I'm looking at purchasing one from Euro Car Parts (Link) and then fitting it myself as they currently have 30% off too. Does anyone have any form of instructions to replace this part? I've done some searching and can find bits and bobs - But I cannot find an exact instructions. I'm pretty competent with engines and cars so it shouldn't be a problem but just want to confirm before going all out. Thanks!
  3. 09 Focus SE Wont Start

    Hello all, Thanks in advance for helping me with this frustrating problem. My 2009 Ford Focus SE (standard transmission) is refusing to start. I have troubleshooted a lot thus far and what seems to be the issue is that the starter is not receiving poet from the ignition. I turn the key and all the lights come on (the radio works, idiot lights on, dashboard is functional, etc...). But there is no crank, nothing at all. So far i have replaced the ignition switch, the ignition lock cylinder, the neutral clutch safety switch, and ALL of the fuses and relays associated with the starter. I can't seem to figure out what the issue it. Any input on the issue would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks, Sebby Side not: I can push start the car without issue.
  4. 2007 Mk6 Fiesta, only about 20k miles on it when I bought it a few years ago, now at ~40k. Always had an intermittent starter motor problem, and by intermittent I mean like once every ~6 months, so infrequent I didn't bother to get it fixed, it always ended up starting after like 5 mins. Last week, all of a sudden, just could not get it started. Left it for a day, tried it again. After about 3 minutes of trying, I tried pumping the accelerator while I did it. There was an almighty backfire type explosion, like a gunshot, and smoke from under the bonnet. I decided to leave it at that point and take it to the garage... Garage called me with the bad news today - apparently something (we assume a backfire, which they told me shouldn't even happen on modern cars) blew a hole in the inlet manifold, turning the the relatively simple £50 starter motor replacement into a £750 all-in (with labour) fix for a new inlet manifold. They've asked if I want to go ahead but have told me that, in all their years of servicing, they've never seen this happen before, or at least not without finding a cause, and they can't really diagnose why it happened until they have a working engine, hence the £700 inlet manifold. Has anybody else ever experienced something like this on a Fiesta/Ford/any modern car??! Is it normal? Does anybody know why it might have happened??
  5. This is a bit of an ongoing problem with my 2007 Mk6 Ford Fiesta (semi-automatic transmission, if that makes any difference...). It's extremely intermittent; the last time I had an issue with it was probably about six months ago, and it's started fine every time between then and now, but every now and again, when I turn the ignition key, instead of turning over the engine just makes this long, pronounced "wheezing"/grinding sound for as long as I turn the key… A mechanic I took it to one side he simply cleaned some of the battery terminals with a wire brush and that seemed to alleviate the issue, but I'm wondering if that was actually a fix or just a temporary thing/coincidence. Lights/wipers/everything works fine and it's a -1yr old battery so I'm assuming it's not that? This short video will hopefully explain what happens better than my text could: https://youtu.be/hYDvo1zApEc Anybody know what that sound is?? Could it be the starter or something?
  6. Hey, I've got a (new to me) '62 plate focus estate titanium X, 1.6TDCI (115) stop-start engine with keyless entry and keyless start button. it has around 120k on the clock. Timing belt/chain has just been done. I've had it arpund 2 weeks. I have a problem where the car will not start using the button (have not tried the emergency key yet) it takes many attempts for the car to start. A faint, but dull click can be heard after pressing the button - sounds a bit like the starter motor solanoid -but don't read too deep into that. it cut out at the weekend when I was on holiday - it was either stop-start kicking in, or me fumbling about and made it cut-out, or it just cut-out its self - I'm not sure. either way it wouldn't start, all signs pointed towards having a flat battery, that's what it felt like. THe AA came out and couldn't start it either, eventually it just started by fluke.140miles later after getting going again it did the same thing when I turned the car off to pick the dog up, got in the car and it would not start until about 8 tries of pressing the button, each time there was a faint, dull clicking noise from the engine bay. there's no warnings that I can see, but I did see *something* about hill-start assist on the display as I got into the car for the first time on the day it first broke down. here's a video (car was warm - I'd just stpped it to nip into doctors) https://www.dropbox.com/s/n9yszdu8wig847e/20160201_105618.mp4?dl=0 The AA ran diagnostics but their system didn't read the ford codes and he said there were 5 electrical faults in the memory but he could not tell me what the errors meant. (p.s I'm not talking about the ~4 sec delay between pressing the button and waiting for the coils to warm up where the engine fires its self after the short pause. This happens with a warm car too)
  7. Dear fellow KA owners/enthousiasts, I have been driving my Ford KA (first car i owned) for about half a year now. I never had any serious problems with it untill now. Today i wanted to drive to the store but my car wouldn't start. I did not hear the engine or starter turn over, but i did hear a ticking noise, which i believe comes from the relais to the starter engine. I made videos of me starting the engine (both from the drivers seat and under the hood) to maybe help you guys pinpoint the problem. View My Video View My Video All electrical things like radio/windows work so i know the battery is not dead (it's a battery that was installed when i bought the car). I did change the bulb in my left headlight the day before, but afterwards i drove to a friend and back without any problems. Is it possible that a wire was close to being disconnected because of my headlight fix and then disconnected due to vibrations when i was driving? Is this maybe a moisture issue in the distributor/starter (it has been raining the last few days)? We have tried a few things, being: - reconnecting the battery connections. - putting it in second gear and pushing to turn over the starter one turn. This did change the sound a bit when i tried to start it afterwards, but then it almost instantly changed back to the old ticking noise. - pushing the car with the clutch down and letting the clutch come up slowly to try and start it without the starter engine. This didn't work, but we only tried it once since it was just the 2 of us. I have some knowledge of car engines since i study mechanical engineering, but i lack experience in the practical application, so any tips, help or suggestions on what to do would be appreciated very much!! I don't have a multimeter right now, but will be able to get one tomorrow. Sorry for any spelling/grammar mistakes, i'm not a native English speaker ;) Looking forward to a response and thanks in advance!
  8. hi to all i have a 1.6 focus petrol automatic zetec se .......i was driving home when i heard a rapid knocking sound from the engine that gets faster when accelerating and when slowing/stopping car idles irratic then stalls .......put 4 litres of 5w30 in.... now when trying to start dash and roof light go dim/off starter clicks once....tried jumping from another cars battery but leads got hot quick and i saw a tiny plume of smoke from middle of engine so.... is it wise to try and jump start again ? any idea about irratic idle and stall ? or what knocking noise is ? car wont start helpppppp....
  9. Hi, I've had this issue for a while now, probably since before Christmas last year, in the winter it really struggled to start, after turning the key the starter would turn the engine over but it would turn over slower and slower but sometimes it would suddenly really pick up pace and fire the engine up. I replaced the battery and it seemed to go away I've been using the car less anyway. Now what I'm finding is still get the slow-ish turnover but also after a drive and the engine is hot/warm when i try to restart the engine just coughs and spluts and rattles and shakes then cuts out, does it a few times but then fires up fine. Here is a video of it happening; https://youtu.be/WkYW0JdpYBU I've read various other posts on forums and there seems all sorts of stories some ending with replacing the starter motor and some relating to DMF. My DMF was replaced about 50,000 miles ago (at 81k, I'm now on 127k) so dont suspect it of being that, so I've ordered a new starter motor. Do you guys think it could be starter motor? And also, does anyone have instructions on how to replace starter motor, its a mk4 2007 ('57 plate) 1.8 TDCi estate. Hope you can help. Thanks Gavin
  10. Focus Mk1 Wiring Problem

    I have a 1998 MK1 focus, manual, petrol. There is intermittent failure to start: when you turn the key against the 'resistance' of the switch, there is no sound ( no clicking ). The battery is OK and occasionally the thing just suddenly bursts into life. I therefore assume it's the ignition switch or the starter relay (R17). I removed the starter relay. When ign is ON, but before you go to 'start', there is 12V at pin 1 of the relay ( as expected ) but the relay doesn't pull in because pin 2 ( earth connection ) isn't making it to earth. The wire goes to a contact on the ECU, apparently. At this point I'm stuck: why does it go to the ECU and not to the body-work? How should I proceed? Bruce
  11. Hi all I've just purchased a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Zetec focus and all seems well apart from the cranking speed. Not having had one before I don't know if it's normal for these but it feels like an old tractor starting, very slow and chuggy but does always start. It's almost like an old engine where the glow plugs have failed. I'm going to check voltages and earths etc but wondered if there are any common things to look out for? Thanks Mow
  12. Had the car nearly a month, had a major service about two weeks ago. A few days ago, i pushed the starter button, the engine turned over, but was really lumpy and didnt completely fire up. To stop the drain on the battery and the motor, i pushed the start button again to cancel it. I tried it again and it started fine. This has happened to me a few times in the last few days, both with a hot engine and a cold engine. Any ideas?
  13. So i went on holiday for 3 weeks when I came home I noticed my trip computer was reset to 0 miles... pretty sure I didn't reset it before I went away... I never do... it was weird. I also noticed when turning the car on for the first time it was like reallly rough to drive like the battery had been disconnected kinda tihing.. it I assumed this was to be expected as normally the car was driven daily for 30miles at least and to go from that to nothing for 3 weeks I figured this was normal.. but even now a few days on after driving it, the main thing I see wrong is that when I first start the car, even after its got a warmed up engine, it seems to struggle to start... normally when i first turn the key, the dashboard will stay lit up e.t.c it wont show details but the lights stay on.. and all the meters in the car will go to their correct places right from the start. Now however... the dash board will flicker quite badly... and the starter motor sounds really slow... all the meters will go up a bit at the start and then back to zero or will jsut freeze on the way up for awhile even after the engine is actually started... then it will correct itself after like a 2second delay... does this sound like a battery on its way out? or is it something else?
  14. Hi everyone, This weekend changed the fuel pump timing solenoid, As with the job had to take out the starter motor. Everything done double/triple checked everything, Go and connect battery up an immediately the starter motor starts to spin and does so until disconnecting the battery. There were no keys in the ignition either, wiring to the starter is correct too. Any suggestions would be great. Cheers K@rl
  15. Hi guys, I have an 05 zetec 1.6 Focus which this morning decided it didn't want to start... I turned the key and just got a single click...I tried the windows and lights etc and all seem to have enough power to work but the engine wont turn over... I have checked all fuses and they all seem to be ok but after checking them I turned the key again this time i'm getting a low whine from the engine bay and a slight electrical burning smell, this is currently where i'm at? I have read another forum post on here where the guy seemed to have pretty much the exact same issue and he replaced the battery and all is now good however he did not mention about power to electric windows or headlights etc he just said the dash lit up...just want some advice before I give Halfords any money. Many thanks in advance.
  16. I have a 2003 2 ltr tdci mondeo. I haven't had it long and the.other week i had to put a new starter on it. When i took the starter to a guy to see if he could refurb it (which he couldnt,so i bought a new one from local car parts shop) he said there was metal filings in it which could be a sign of the dreaded dmf failure. Well the new starters been on for no.more.than.a couple of weeks which in that time hasn't even been started every day and it seems its failed again. I went to start it yesterday and the dials went around on the dash like they do when you reconnect the.battery and then struggled to start almost like a flat battery. This happened for the next couple of times of starting but now it doesn't even try to start you just get the click noise which is associated with a non working starter. Could the dmf problem cause the starter to stop working after this very short space of time or could it be something else? Its the dials going around and the struggling to start that confuses me. oh and i have managed to bump start it
  17. I had a problem with my starter motor clicking when engaging and disengaging, i had it replaced and that fixed the starting problem. Later that day my battery warning light began to flicker but when i accellerated it went away. I checked the voltage on my battery whith the engine running and it was only showing 12.05 volts, the following day i checked it and it was showing 11.8 volts. So the alternator is not charging the battery what so ever. Could this be down to the starter motor being slightly more powerful then the original Ford Starter Motor.
  18. Hello Fellow Ford Fans! After many many posts popping up asking similar questions, we at FOC have decided to put together a little thread of known issues and troubles that rear their ugly heads during the winter months! Of course these issues aren't the be all and end all but it may go a little way to diagnosing your issues! Batteries: Your battery is vital, without it, your car may as well be a toaster! Battery issues tend to happen in colder months because of the stresses and strains you put on them during the colder seasons, heated screens, heated seats, colder operating temps, using lights more, heating glow plugs (Diesel only) all consume power. Getting into your car first thing on a -5*c morning, and expecting the battery to cope with all the electrical things is a tall order!! Cold ambient temps can cause battery's to fail, Car batteries produce electrons through chemical reactions. During cold weather, the battery's chemical reactions take place more slowly, meaning they are producing fewer electrons with which to power the engine. In addition, the engine's oil thickens during cold weather, causing the engine to require up to three times as much power to turn over. All this extra power needed will drain the battery mischief quicker. Symptoms of a dodgy battery will be poor or non starting (usually accompanied by a clicking sound) You can self test your battery by turning on the ignition and testing the battery with a multimeter, then turning on high drain items like heated screens or main beam, and seeing how much the battery drops or starts to discharge. A healthy battery should last a while and not discharge too quick or drop it's voltage much. Alternators: Your alternator charges your battery, but also supplies your car with all the electrics you need when driving. Similar to the battery, in the colder months we put a lot more strain onto the alternator. We ask it to run heated screens, seats, fans for blowing the hot air into the car, running lights, sometimes fog lights also, run the radio, use the wipers... All in all your asking it to provide a lot!! Sometimes on a worn alternator this can be too much! Alternators can overheat, if the engine is left running for periods of time with no movement, typically like when you leave the car to defrost or warm up on a frosty day... Add this to the exta power your wanting it to provide and bang... The end of your alternator. I had this once, and had smoke coming from under the bonnet! What had happened was the bearings inside had overheated due to being run for long periods of time and the bearings had collapsed. Luckily just a new alternator shaft was needed. Alternators also have diodes in, to convert the alternating current into direct current, to charge your battery and supply the 12v (well anywhere between 13-15) that your car needs. If one of these diodes fails, the alternator then cannot supply the required power. Symptoms are a regularly flat battery, and maybe dim lights. You can test the alternator yourself, by putting a multimeter across the battery when the car is running, however now with smart charge systems, it's not as easy to self diagnose, as the alternator/ECU will regulate the amount of charge given to the battery. Starter Motors: In cold weather it takes a lot more energy and work to start a car. This added strain can cause starter motors to overheat. If your vehicle has trouble starting on cold mornings it's more than likely one of the other issues, however if you keep trying to crank the car without it starting its important you stop and let things cool/settle... A starter motor can and will overheat if you try to crank the car for prolonged periods of time. Starter motors can also get "sticky" after time, and the problem can be temporarily solved by a gentle tap with a block of wood or similar... I am not for one minute suggesting that you try this when you car refuses to start, especially in the colder months, but this could be a symptom in the warmer months! Similar to a battery, symptoms will be poor or non starting and maybe a click from the starter motor. Fuel Filters: This is more geared for Diesel Owners, as petrol doesn't get affected in the same way. When diesel gets cold, it suffers from waxing or gelling, this means that below a certain temperature wax molecules start forming in the diesel. These molecules then start clumping together forming larger flakes, which in turn stick to things... Normally fuel lines, fuel filters, injector nozzles... Anywhere where the fuel runs! This of course can cause fuel starvation, meaning your engine will stall, go into limp mode, etc etc. Once a fuel filter becomes blocked it's often easier and cheaper just to replace it, rather than to try running additives through it to clean it. One thing I will stress is that most TDCi engines appear to be quite fussy on fuel filters, with many being a pig to reprime and start if using a non ford item. I know this from personal experience! Manufacturers have built in ways to combat waxing, by putting in an Excess Fuel Return system, or a spill return system, by which any excess fuel from the injector pump and injectors is returned to the fuel tank. Once the engine has warmed, returning warm fuel prevents waxing in the tank. Fuel suppliers also do their bit by supplying "Winter Diesel" this basically has some additives added, to prevent the waxed molecules from joining together, these additives however do not stop the waxing itself. There are some things you can do to prevent this, adding winter additive yourself, fitting a diesel pre heater. In days gone by, people used to add a little petrol, or kerosene. A practice still used by some Land Rover owners, however doing this on a modern TDDi or TDCi unit will be sending your car to an early grave! DO NOT add petrol or kerosene to your fuel! Symptoms of a blocked filter will be poor starting or non starting, limp mode or stalling when driving. You may also get either a glowplug warning light or the engine management light. Fuel Filter Housings: Something which I luckily seem to have avoided, however many colleagues and members on here have suffered with it! In the cold, things contract or get smaller. Something that appears fine when warm can give faults and issues when it's operating temp lowers substantially. Plastic is also known to get more brittle and fragile when cold. If you have a cracked fuel filter housing you may not necessarily know about it in the warmer months or once the car is up to running temperature, however when cold te plastic will shrink slightly, opening up any hairline cracks, letting air into your fuel system, and probably also forcing fuel out! Tell tale symptoms are the car stalling or going into limp mode when cold, but appearing to drive well when warm. Again warning lights on the dash! This can often be overlooked when people complain of running issues, so make sure you have a poke around first and double check. Glow Plugs: Again a diesel only thing. I could get technical and talk about thermal diffusion, but I won't! Basically for a diesel to start efficiently and easily, the cylinders have to be warmed in colder temps. This is done by glow plugs! They only operate for seconds, if that! But If they fail then you end up throwing diesel into a cylinder that's stone cold, and it takes longer to start. Obviously issues occur in winter as this is when the glowplugs are needed the most. Again symptoms of dodgy glowplugs will be rough or prolonged starting, white smoke from exhaust (note smoke and not steam from condensation) and a strong smell of unburnt diesel. You may get the glowplug light flashing on the dash, but in my experience you don't get this unless they are well and truly dead!! Glow Plug Loom: With the extra power needed to run the glowplugs for longer, this can of course cause wiring looms to work harder. On the end of the glowplug rail (some cars have this some don't) you will find a ring connector on the end of a wire, this can burn out and melt, causing a bad connection to the glow plugs. This means the glowplugs either aren't getting the full voltage or may have gone faulty and drawing more power than they should. This is easily sorted by chopping the loom back to a good bit of wire and recrimping a ring connector onto it. I have been reliably informed that this is how the main dealers do it unless the loom is completely burnt or it's too short. Symptoms will be similar to above, however if you lift the bonnet and get someone to crank the car over for you, you may be lucky (if you think of it that way) to see some smoke coming from the burnt end of the loom! Also look for black burnt ends on cables near the location of glowplugs. Forum Member big_dav3 has also created this handy winter survival guide. To make sure you don't get caught out this winter visit The Winter Survival Guide I hope that this thread has helped some of you diagnose your cold weather issues! This list is of course not extensive and there are many other things that could be causing your issues but these are a good starting point! Thanks for reading! The FOC Team.
  19. Hello all! Of course, I'm new here, and I've been asking all over the net about my issue. I've been getting lots of great hints, ideas and advice, but figure that too much information in this case is better than not enough. In short, my family's car is a New Zealand registered 2008 base model Ford Mondeo Sedan. It is a European Ford from Belgium I believe? The vehicle is powered by a 2.0L 'Duratec-HE' engine. The problem is when we turn the key to start the car, there is no cranking at all, just clicking. There is an 'Immobilser Active' warning, strange flickering and whining in the cabin, and strange noises coming from under the hood. We not long completed a road trip of around 900kms return, and the car didn't miss a beat! Yet the very next day. she spat the dummy and wouldn't crank. All I can say is thank goodness it decided to wait till it was home parked in the garage to stop, rather than 5 or 6 hours away from home!!! Anyway, I have put 3 clips on YouTube to show what's happening. They will take around 2-3 minutes to view. 1. 2. 3. Is this going to be an expensive fix? I'm praying not! Anyway, thanks for viewing / reading and thanks for sharing your thoughts! William.