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Found 42 results

  1. The alternator on my ford galaxy failed after a small fuel leak. I had the battery replaced by the rac who told me the alternator was failing so i got it replaced at halfords. Since then i still get the battery light on with maybe every other start-up. The battery shows 13.7 volts when the light is on and 14.7 initially when the light is off. Looking around on forums it sounds like a smart charge issue? Had it back to halfords twice, both times told they found some 'loose connections' but its still doing the same. Any ideas much appreciated. Can supply more info if needed.
  2. Battery Light

    The battery light on my 2011 Fiesta 1.25 is coming on intermittently. I have checked it with a meter and the battery is new and good (calcium) plus the alternator is putting out the right voltage even when the battery light is on. I've read on the web that the wire harness from the alternator can chafe so I checked all down it (removed it from the clips) and the whole length is armoured and looks ok. Is there anything else I can check for?
  3. Hello Focus Fans, After two years of problem free blatting around, the battery warning light came on during a journey and at the end of it then battery was drained low enough that it wouldn't start and had to be jump started. Drove home with no warning light :) Next day , warning light came back on at night. I tried all the wiggle testing I could for loose connections, no change in the battery warning light. I checked the three-wire-block to the top of the alternator for wear and breaks as far back into the wiring loom as I could - no breaks. There was some oil on the the connector though which i cleaned. Multimeter check at the battery showed 8.3 v - 11.30 v, so I go a new alternator and fitted it. Multimeter check showed 14.4 volts immediately and I thought I had fixed the problem. After a long days drive yesterday including a 2 hour night drive with lights on - all was good. But on a short drive today the battery warning light came back on. Checked the voltage at the battery with multimeter and its jumping from 13.4 to 14.2 volts and all volts in between. Has the Smart Charge system got a fault? Is the wiring to blame? Or something else?!? I do have a lead acid battery - not a silver calcium - but this has been fine for two years or regular use. Hair-pulled, swear-jar full, oil under the finger nails standard; tether-end reached. Any help gratefully received! Thanks 2002 diesel estate ford focus C1 engine TDc
  4. Evening All, wondered if anyone could give me some advice or point me in the right direction. I had a power steering leak which had leaked everywhere and into the alternator, I fixed the leak. The battery warning light came on only when there is a load on i.e. Headlights. The light would come on for about 5mins disappear for 10 mins and then come back on. i checked across battery terminals with a multimeter with engine off and it read 12.8V engine on the voltage did not change. Checked output voltage from alternator and it was about 11.5V. i thought it could be the alternator, so I bought new alternator. I also fitted new battery and belt while I as there. All was ok for around a day and then the problems began to start again. I have checked the wires from the plug as far as I can I can't see any signs of a break or corrosion. Anyone have any ideas?? car is fiesta 2007 1.4 tdci
  5. Hello everyone, I wondered if anyone could help... I have a Focus Mk2.5 Titanium 1.8 TDCi - 58 Reg. Last night, the red battery light came on on my dash when I was driving to the gym. I went to the gym, came out and the car started fine but light remained on. This morning, I started the car and the battery (red), ABS (amber) and the Slip Indicator/Stability Control Fault Indicator (red) lights were on. The stereo also made a loud humming/buzzing sound depending how loud the volume was turned up, so I turned it down and turned the car off then jumped on the bus to work! Any ideas what this might be? The battery died in November and I replaced it with a brand new one... Alternator or ECU maybe? I will also add that the cigarette lighter is always powered, I have to unplug my dash cam every time I turn the car off otherwise it will stay powered on through the cigarette lighter - not sure if this is linked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy Friday!
  6. About a month ago, my front left dip light blew, simple fix, and after a few weeks, it blew again, and i changed it again. Today, (after a few more weeks) its blown again, same one, so i changed it. (since i bought a pack of 2 and used one from that pack) When it blew however after getting petrol, it blew, how i knew though was because all lights, (the dip on the right hand side, speedo illumination) went MUCH brighter, the wipers sped up quite a bit and the battery light came on, then after a while, about 10 or so seconds, it went back to normal and i noticed, one side of the road seemed a bit more dim, so I stopped for a bit to look, and it was the same dip bulb that had blown, so I got home and changed the bulb with the last one i had, then i had to go back into town to do a small amount of shopping, and as i left the shop, 10-20 mins after i arrived, i started the car up and it seemed ok, then i left the junction where the shop was and noticed the battery light on, wipers going fast again, and lights going brighter, so i pulled over in this small car park, where i had to look and see that it had blown again, minutes after i replaced it, and i continued to another shop, to get fish and chips, the entire journey, the battery light not going off this time, also the speedometer getting to 10mph, but then dropping to 0 suddenly, (also the fuel needle dropping to 0 the same time the speedometer needle drops) so i stopped, turned the car off and got my stuff from the fish and chip shop, started the car up and it, seemed ok (apart from the dip that blew earlier) but as i pulled off to go up a road to turn around and head back home, the battery light came on again, so i thought if i turn full beam on, put the fog light on and put all wipers on full would drain some of that charge, just to see if it would go off, it did for a while until i got up to speed, (speed limit, 30MPH) (by now i had put the full beam off and fog light off since i was in a town and there were more cars around) and it came on again, so i realised it didnt work and i put the wipers back to normal speed, and turn the fan back down, and continued back home, where the battery light was on for the entire journey. Im just wondering, as i think i know the signs but i just want to make sure, is it an alternator problem? Overcharging a bit too much? Or is it something else? Like a short circuit or something else?
  7. 2008 Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI

    Hi guys/gals Has anyone changed an alternator on one of these? If so, could you point me in the direction of a walkthrough? Alternatively, if you have the experience to summarise one, please do. Thanks in advance. Kind regards GTD
  8. Hi my daughter has a 2001 Ford Ka 1.3, Had 2 new batteries recently and new Alternator but after approx. a month the battery when tested is coming up as replace and car needs to be jump started off a jump pack nearly every time but battery had got so bad even the jump pack wouldn't get it started. This has happened before so new battery installed and as mentioned new alternator, I see no evidence that this year\model has the smart charge system as when registration given to motor factor they sent replacement alternator and battery and couldn't see any evidence of the 3 pin smart charge cable in engine compartment of car of the socket on either the original or replacement alternator, battery supplied was also a Lion (63) 40Ah Calcium Technology battery. I charged the battery overnight last night and have taken the following readings from the battery Battery Voltage engine not started = 12.90 V Battery Voltage engine started = 13.98 V Battery Voltage engine started and lights on = 13.90 V Battery Voltage engine started, lights on and fan blower on max = 13.74 V Battery Voltage engine started and fan blower on max = 13.86 V Battery Voltage engine started nothing else on after car running for 10 minutes = 14.08 V So these readings tell me that the alternator is sending charge to battery and voltage is dropping as expected when various power draws are made on the battery\alternator but doesn't explain why over a period of days (I know current cold spell doesn't help) the battery will die again?? Any help gratefully accepted!!
  9. Hi Gang, Bit of a pickle with my MK1 2.0 Petrol. A few weeks back my JBL GTO amp started to intermittently cut out / in, which via testing turned out to be the protection mode. Puzzled I did some more testing and it was only happening when the engine was on, engine off and it works fine. Took it to a garage as I needed a new earth cable (mine had perished) and asked them to test the alternator and battery at the same time. Their conclusion was the battery was fine, alternator works but the alternator was not charging with full load, especially idle, however even with more revs it works when stationary but driving along the amp still cuts in / out and the lights will dim if in traffic corresponding with the amp in / out. The garage suggested a 'more powerful' alternator (if it's possible?), but the thing I don't get is how come I've been running these amps for 5 years on this battery / alternator setup with no issues. So the garage is not 100% sure its the alternator, however I'm stumped what else it could be? I don't mind coughing to replace it, but then I could play the 'lets replace the part' game until I have a new car. I've checked around this forum and so far most things along this vein is to do with the smart charge, but that's not til MK3? I guess what I'm asking is if the regulars here would bet on a new alternator or if there's something else it might be? Thanks
  10. Hi, I'm trying to fit a leisure battery to my mk3 mondeo TDCI (53 reg). All the battery wires, relay and fuses are fitted the only thing i'm left to do is get the trigger for the relay. I'd like to have it only live when the engine is running, so i was thinking of getting a wire from the alternator. I've looked in Haynes and i think a wire runs through a fuse in the fusebox in the engine bay. Which brings me to my question, Have has anyone tried wiring straight off the alternator before and if so got any pictures or tips? Or can you think of a better line to run the trigger off? Cheers!
  11. Battery/Alternator Issue

    Hi all, I've had a look around the forums and have seen similar posts but thought it best to start a new one with my issue. About 2 weeks ago, I came to my Focus one morning and it wouldn't start. The battery had gone. Radio came on as I turned the key, but it didn't turn over. Jumped it, and it's been fine since. This morning, again came to my car to leave for work and exactly the same again. We jumped it, had a run around for a bit and came back home. Later this afternoon, it didn't start again, but after a few attempts it finally did without being jumped. Since then, it's started a few times this afternoon with no issue. We've had the battery checked this afternoon and it tests fine. Would the next step be having the alternator checked? I've been told today that alternators failing can give out a whirring noise, which come to think of it has been happening on and off for a few months but we've though nothing of it. It's a Focus zetec 2010 59 plate (2009). It'll be next week now before I can get to a garage. In the mean time, and to prepare me for costs, Is this the most likely culprit and does the whirring noise sound like it could be related? Thanks all!
  12. hi guys so when i try to turn on my car, the battery light comes up and it won't start. :/ I've bought a replacement alternator but i can't work out how to replace the old one. the two top bolts are easily accessible but i have no clue how to get to the bottom bolt or remove and replace the belt. :/ can anyone please give a guide or some useful tips? it would be much appreciated as I'm desperate to get it back on the road again XD thanks a lot, James :)
  13. Really hoping someone can help. My alternator died leaving me by side of road when battery gave up last of juice. After £500 to replace (is it just me or have I been gouged?), I have got it back find it seems to be stuck in limp mode, with a max.65-69mph and poor acceleration and seems to be smoking a lot (was not smoking noticeably at before new alternator). anyone know what is going on and how to get it sorted?
  14. Hi, I have a 1.4 Fiesta 2004 Mk 6. About 2-3 moths ago the battery light came on, I took it to the local garage and was advised that it was a problem with an alternator so had that replaced. The battery light was still on when they gave the car back and I was suspicious but the mechanic showed me the alternator charging the battery etc and was satisfied that the car worked well enough, albeit with the battery light on. About a month later, after leaving the car parked for about 10 days the battery was flat, so took it upon myself to invest in a new battery. Problem solved but battery light still on. I have been driving the car a fair bit since then, couple of long distance trips, lots of night driving etc all with the battery light still on but the car seems fine. Have even left the car parked for 3 weeks and it started first time. I do however want to get the light sorted so I can tell when there actually is a problem with the alternator and/or battery and concerned that it may not pass the dreaded MOT with this warning light on. Would be grateful if anyone knows if this is a common problem with a simple solution, my searches on various sites hasn't come up with anything of much use. Your help is much appreciated.
  15. Mk2 Tivct Alternator Amp

    Hey - Have done a quick trawl of the forums but couldn't find a definite answer: Can those who have a Ti-VCT1.6 petrol MK2 Ford Focus possibly let me know what amperage your alternator is? Location would be on the alternator sticker, or for those techie a variable set in the ECU which can be read by ELMConfig. Trying to check I've had the right amperage one put in. Thanks!
  16. Hi really need some help im puzzled here. recently replaced my alternator on a 2008 c max 1.8 tdci, on buying a new belt which wherever i look states it is a 6 rib 1520 lentgh it seems way to long if i route it in the way a digram shows which ill add. it is the only diagram i can find that looks exactly the same as my pulley set up. now the question is what belt should be fitted because if it is a different lentgh for the life of me i cant find it. does anyone have any clues, the picture ive added seems to be from a 2008 focus 1.8 tdci but is the closest i can get to my c max pulley and routing diagram. any help is greatley appreciated. it is figure 1 on the pic with A/C not the right side.
  17. Electrical Power Issues

    Hi All, FYI before I go into my story this is an 11 plate 1.6 Ecoboost petrol engine with start-stop. having lots of issues with my S-MAX of late, first of all it was suspected a power drain whilst the car was stood still but now seems like an issue with the alternator. The power issues first started after driving around all evening and when waiting at the last stop for my Son to come out of club the car warned me low battery. Days later I got stuck at traffic lights with no ability to turn the engine over, RAC tried to jump with nothing happening. Mechanic pronounced the battery dead at the scene and put a new, larger battery (have no idea if its the right type). Anyway all fine for a few days but the starter seems to be getting slower and even whilst driving home last night the power steering failed, battery light came on etc... The car would not start at this point. Now this morning car would start and I found the in car diagnositcs (thanks you tube), now the battery on the dash display (I don't have a volt meter handy), reads 12.6V even when the engine it running, then put stuff on like lights heaters this goes down to under 12 volts. If this is showing power at the battery terminals I assume this would be higher as the alternator charges the batter, but hay I don't know. Anyway looking around the web there seems to cables going into the alternator, the power output and regulator connector. Now these videos ect talk about a 3 pin connector, but looking under my bonnet (looks like the alternator is on the front left of the engine, there are 2 connectors a large cable (power to battery) and nother connector, but the connector has holes for 2 cables and only 1 cable going in ?!?!? I was looking to unplug second cable to turn the alternator into none smart mode and see if that charged the battery. Anyone have details on this engine and its alternator, also the second plug, should that just pull out or is it clipped in? Thanks to any help recieved. PS have attached image of what I think to be the alternator and its two connectors.
  18. Hi all, My fiesta is causing me many troubles so please bear with me whilst I pour out the details... 1. Instrument Cluster replacement due to immobiliser fault. 1 week later: immobiliser came on whilst driving so it was returned to Ford but the fault did nit reoccur. 2. First motorway drive - Speedo reading incorrectly; stuck at 50, stuck at 70, dropped to 30 when stationary then moved to 70 and stayed there. When driving the needle climbs at a reasonable speed. 3. Post motorway drive - Loud whirring/screeching sound from engine - sounded like a belt movement. No change when revving - okay once cooled and driven again for a shirt distance. 4. Didn't drive car for 2 weeks (involved in accident) - drive 10 miles to Ford and cab hear screeching noise again. Revved (gas pedal to floor) and upon calming there was a 'clunky' noise and then the normal engine/screeching belt sound remained. Any ideas? Am I unlucky or is it linked? (Asking for advice as I go away on holiday tomorrow and will not liaise with Ford for a week! Plus want insight as I think the instrument cluster is faulty even if not the cause of both problems?)
  19. Hi Guys! New to these forums and i have a concern about my car which I though I would put to you guys and gals. Bought myself a Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 57 plate back in September '14 and loving it. Did have one problem, kind of early, which was when I would go to work in the morning the battery would be dead, or would die on me very quickly if i was in there listening to music with the engine off. Gave the car to my girlfriends step-dad who is a MOT engineer who did some power tests? on it and determined the battery was dead. Got a new battery and everything seems to be fine, hasn't died on me since (although I'm now paranoid about having electrics on too long without the engine). Recently i have noticed that when changing down to 2nd and 1st the tachometer would suddenly drop down to about 700, quite quickly, causing the lights to dim and then would shoot up to about 1,100. This doesn't happen all the time but mainly when i pull into my driveway; i have to slowdown considerably as its a tight turn with a high curb. This doesn't happen when changing between higher gears just when dropping down to 2nd and 1st. It also happens when reversing into my parking spot, revs would drop, lights would dim and previous owner has fitted an annoying reverse sensor (that doesnt work), this would also make a dying noise. I combated that problem by giving the car extra revs when reversing. The worst time this has happened is when i pulled into my driveway and my revs dropped and rose, i took the car out of gear to roll the rest of the way and the revs kept going up and down until i came to a full stop. I have had a look through the internet and as you can imagine i have found all sorts of different causes, belts, alternator, battery, battery cables but i wanted to see if anyone here has had a similar problem or knows what it may be? The car has only done 50k miles so i would like to think a new alternator is not needed? Let me know your thoughts. (i will get an engineer to look at it as soon as i can) Thank you! Dev.
  20. Hi all, Apologies... yet another "battery warning light / voltage Issue" I see this is a common problem with various solutions. Just after an opinion or two on whether I will be ok driving around until the weekend and doing a longer drive on Saturday or should I look to fix the issue before then? I am part exing the car on Saturday but I have to make it to Harpenden from High Wycombe to do so! Some details of the issue: About 6 weeks ago the battery light came on on my Focus (1.6 LX mk1 2005) and stayed onA couple of days later the car would not start after workI got a push start and got about half way home (approx 2.5 miles into a 5 mile journey - just moved house and journey is about half of what it was)Dash went blank - no speedo, lights, warning lightsRAC called, suspected alternator, fitted a temporary battery which got me to my local garageThey replaced the alternator, all good and oil was topped up as it was lowA couple of weeks later the light came backThe garage fitted another alternator (the first was faulty), all goodAnother week and the light came on then disappearedBack to garage, they could find no faultAnother week on again and after a longish drive too (High Wycombe to Watford and back) light comes on and disappearsFind dash trick to check voltage - 11.2V engine off and 13.5V engine on. Booked into an electircal specialist for fault finding.Have kept it in diagnostic mode showing voltage while driving and it fluctuates between 13.5V and 13.7V occasionally reaching and 11.2 - 11.4 when off (generally 11.2 ish). I have been doing a longer circuit so that my drive to/from work is a little longer (25-30 minutes instead of 10) in a bid to get some form of charge into the battery!Have been looking at cars any way so on Saturday I drove from High Wycombe to Slough, (light came on and went off at the services in slough), then to Harpenden and back home (no light). Placed a deposit on a car in Harpenden.The light has again come on on arrival at work this morning and then gone - but I've just gone out to do the dash test and it is on again...So my question is am I safe to keep driving it and to do a motorway journey on Saturday or should I take it to the garage round the corner this evening and ask them to revisit the issue?
  21. hi to all i have a 1.6 focus petrol automatic zetec se .......i was driving home when i heard a rapid knocking sound from the engine that gets faster when accelerating and when slowing/stopping car idles irratic then stalls .......put 4 litres of 5w30 in.... now when trying to start dash and roof light go dim/off starter clicks once....tried jumping from another cars battery but leads got hot quick and i saw a tiny plume of smoke from middle of engine so.... is it wise to try and jump start again ? any idea about irratic idle and stall ? or what knocking noise is ? car wont start helpppppp....
  22. Hi all, I have a 2011 Ford Focus 1.6 titanium. Earlier on I was driving and I noticed when I turned into a corner that the power steering cut off half way through the corner, I straightened up and it seemed to sort itself. I stopped to check and could see nothing wrong with the wheels and there was no fluid leeking. I got back in the car and everything seemed okay, about two miles down the road, the power steering went completely. This was followed by all the elctrics cutting out apart from the backlit dash, the needles all fell to 0 and all the warning lights came on. I parked up and switched the ignition off. I went and had another look and could see nothing wrong. I jumped back into the car and tried to start it but to no avail, It wouldn't start. I got a jump start and the car started fine and all the warning lights were off. I drove a further 7 miles with no faults. When I arrived at work I check the voltage to the battery, when the engine was off it was reading 12.5v, when idling it was reading 15v and when revving it read the same (this seems rather high). The car then sat for around 7 hours. I went back out to drive home expecting that the alternator was the cause of my problems but It started fine and I drove home, 16 miles with no problems atall. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem?? I've been looking for someone with similar problems and I have found alot of people having problems with the regulator, However, I recon that i'm just looking for anything to be faulty at this stage. Thanks, Hunter
  23. Hello people of the Ford Forum, I have a W reg 1.8 petrol Ford Focus Zetec. I've had it since September and I bought it in a car auction. The car is sound, it passed its MOT earlier this month albeit with a new brake cylinder on the o/s/r brake, but I cannot crumble as the car was cheap. My problem is that my alternator packed up the other day, it didn't give me any warning. The radio turned off, then the dash board lights started going. Not at any point did the battery light or any light other than the air bag warning light come on to give me notice. After calling out the AA I was told it was the alternator. So after buying a battery charger and charging the battery completely full I drove it with no heater, lights and radio to my local motor mechanic 20 miles from where I live. They have replaced the alternator but now the battery light stays on and the front windscreen heater does not work. The garage say they will sort it, but as I needed the car back I have to take it back when its convenient. I just wanted to know everybody's thoughts? Is it the alternator, a loose wire, what could it be? I'd appreciate any feed back so I can seem smart when I go back to the garage and tell them to investigate further.
  24. Hi guys. Registered for the site in the hope that somebody can prevent me from parking my Mondeo in the canal! Had a 1.8 diesel 2007 (mk4) Mondeo for 2 years now. I'm on my third battery. The most recent has gone dead twice in 4 months. Most recently about 2 weeks after I had my alternator replaced. Obviously I'm reluctant to take car in for the diagnosis of the fault because I can't really afford a massive garage bill. And after my local garage diagnosed the fault as being alternator, I'm worried I might get another incorrect diagnosis and still have the problem. I know there are many suffering from flat battery issues through browsing the net looking for a fix. Anybody have a miracle cure? Appreciate your help.
  25. Mk6 Fiesta Start Up Problems

    Hi guys. Don't know if anyone will have any ideas but I'm having some issues when starting up my car. I've got a 2003 (53) Fiesta LX 1.25. The issue is sometimes when I try to start the car it can take about 5 - 8 seconds to fire up. I can hear the starter turning, trying to start the car but it just makes this spluttering sound and slow comes to life on 0 revs, then the revs go up. But I've I turn the engine back off straight away and start it again it will start first time usually. It's strange because this doesn't usually happen when the engine is cold. I can be driving the car and leave it for say 20 mins and when I come back and the engine is still moderately warm it will do this and I have no idea why. It's been more prominent the past few weeks.. Any idea's???