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Found 83 results

  1. Potential battery issues

    Bit of history; I've had my 2008 Mk6.5 Fiesta for just under 7 years and the battery seems to the original Ford silver calcium battery. At the moment I car share with a friend for work journeys and my car was left standing on my drive for a week a few weeks ago, but when I went to drive it on the weekend on the same week the car struggled to start - as if the battery was dead. Tonight, same thing happened and the car has only been standing for a couple of days. I went to turn the ignition over and the symptoms were that of a dead battery, but the car started after a second or so. My hunch is that the battery is on its way out, but I wanted to post here to ask for some advice before taking the next step. The car has never suffered any issues starting, even in freezing temperatures, until recently.
  2. My 2009 focus TDCI been brilliant till six months ago. Battery dies when not used for four days. Garage could only find tiny drain and fixed that. Put in new battery too. Problem not fixed though. The radio/CD player was intermittently available or dead ie. no display. Now basically not available. Also the driving display stays on when car switched off. To be exact it does not go out fully - only the central part of the display goes off. These faults been happening all this time. Has anyone experienced this? Have any suggestions to fix this? Many Thanks.
  3. 2 weeks ago I bought a 2012 fiesta zetec s. Since a couple of days after I bought it, the car was struggling to start a wee bit. I thought this might be because the person I bought it off barely ran it, and I mainly use it to drive to work and back (10 minutes from home). The car recently has been struggling to start a wee bit more (even if I took it big runs to charge the battery), it could sit for a few hours then it would not turn over and sound really powerless when turning the key, with lights on the dashboard flickering too. But it eventually would start. For the interior light to turn off and the dashboard to go off, the car must be locked. Is this right for this kind of car? A few times when turning the key, there has been a noise that sounds just like the noise it makes when the petrol light goes on. Just want to check that this sounds like the car battery is on it's way out before I buy a new one? And it's not another kind of problem?
  4. Hi The picture shows the dimly illuminated two lights. Very intermittent. Trying to sell car and blocking sale. When in fault, lights appear as soon as i press unlock on the key fob. HELP!!!
  5. Help - Fiesta keyless battery low

    Hi all, The battery in my keyless fob for a 2013 fiesta ecoboost titanium X is low and needs replacing. Which type of battery do I need? I went to Halfords and they advised it would need reprogramming from the dealer, is this true? This is the only key I have aswell so don't want it to die. Kind regards, The Scooby Collector.
  6. Recently had battery issues ending up putting a new battery in. The car sat without a battery for about 24 hours. Now the fuel gauge reads a quarter which is about right but the low fuel level indicator has illuminated even though I know there is fuel in the tank. Any ideas? ford fiesta 2009 1.6 diesel
  7. Should I buy?

    Hi All, Looking for a bit of help/advice please. We're getting a 2015 Ecoboost Zetec and have found a decent one for our budget BUT I have 2 reservations: 1. Under the bonnet, on the sound-proofing just behind the battery there is a white residue, could be mildew where the cars been sitting idle or maybe a battery acid leak? The battery itself was clean, all the terminals and leads looked good and there wasn't any sign of leakage that I could see so I'm just wondering if anyone else has had/got this weird white substance on the bulkhead sound insulation - or any suggestions? 2. It's from a Ford dealer, 1 owner, was registered by them Mar 2015 and has done 12,340miles. It only has one service stamp though (also by the dealer) at about 5,400 miles / March 16 so technically it's missed a second service by 6 months (should have had one in March this year). It's only done about 6,000 since the last (5,400 mile) service in March 16 so I'm not worried about the mileage particularly. The dealer is offering to do this service as part of the sale and has promised to honour the remaining manufacturer's warranty (6 months). My question is I guess, should I avoid this car because of this missed service or am I worrying too much as the dealer will do it before we take delivery... the car seems in good condition, drives well so it's really only the missed service that's stopping me at the moment. Any help/suggestions gratefully received.... Thanks.
  8. Since I bought the car a couple of months ago (1.4 Titanium Auto, 27k, with keyless start), I have had the battery go flat on me 3 times. The battery is a Halfords HCB063. After the second time I popped into Halfords for a battery check. Guy said it looked like their most recent design and was probably only a year or so old, which tied in with the fitted sticker starting at 2016. The battery checked out fine, but showed it needed more charge. Flat again yesterday, so charged it up overnight and spent some time on it with the multimeter yesterday. Battery voltage was 12.57 V after charging, and 13.95V with the engine running, so looks like the alternator is charging OK. I then disconnected the earth battery cable, and measured the amps being pulled after the car was locked, and got 0.32A. This is high, as generally the draw should not be greater than 50mA (0.05A), as a comparison, our VW Polo was only pulling 0.01A. Started pulling fuses, and removing either fuse 16 (Powertrain control module, high and low cooling fan), 18 (Powertrain Control module) or 27 (PCM) dropped the drain to 0.09A. At this point I'm stuck, as none of the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual show those fuses, or the PCM .Can anyone help?
  9. Evening All, wondered if anyone could give me some advice or point me in the right direction. I had a power steering leak which had leaked everywhere and into the alternator, I fixed the leak. The battery warning light came on only when there is a load on i.e. Headlights. The light would come on for about 5mins disappear for 10 mins and then come back on. i checked across battery terminals with a multimeter with engine off and it read 12.8V engine on the voltage did not change. Checked output voltage from alternator and it was about 11.5V. i thought it could be the alternator, so I bought new alternator. I also fitted new battery and belt while I as there. All was ok for around a day and then the problems began to start again. I have checked the wires from the plug as far as I can I can't see any signs of a break or corrosion. Anyone have any ideas?? car is fiesta 2007 1.4 tdci
  10. Pcm problem or wiring?

    Hey i have a focus that is causing me no end of trouble. First didn't idle right and would cut out now and again. The intermittent power steering on cold or dam/wet days Then all the gauges would fly up and down no power steering, turn it off and started all fine again. Then cut out all together rac called out restarted it. Had a new battery & alternator. That worked for a week, but engine light was on. monday loss of power steering while driving, all haywire with the gauges again. Power steering wouldn't come back on. Left it an hour all was fine. Next day went to start it all dash lights flashing, multiple malfunctions and it's died. Garage are saying it's down to the pcm! But are not 100% sure it will solve the issue Any advice??
  11. Hello everyone, I wondered if anyone could help... I have a Focus Mk2.5 Titanium 1.8 TDCi - 58 Reg. Last night, the red battery light came on on my dash when I was driving to the gym. I went to the gym, came out and the car started fine but light remained on. This morning, I started the car and the battery (red), ABS (amber) and the Slip Indicator/Stability Control Fault Indicator (red) lights were on. The stereo also made a loud humming/buzzing sound depending how loud the volume was turned up, so I turned it down and turned the car off then jumped on the bus to work! Any ideas what this might be? The battery died in November and I replaced it with a brand new one... Alternator or ECU maybe? I will also add that the cigarette lighter is always powered, I have to unplug my dash cam every time I turn the car off otherwise it will stay powered on through the cigarette lighter - not sure if this is linked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy Friday!
  12. About a month ago, my front left dip light blew, simple fix, and after a few weeks, it blew again, and i changed it again. Today, (after a few more weeks) its blown again, same one, so i changed it. (since i bought a pack of 2 and used one from that pack) When it blew however after getting petrol, it blew, how i knew though was because all lights, (the dip on the right hand side, speedo illumination) went MUCH brighter, the wipers sped up quite a bit and the battery light came on, then after a while, about 10 or so seconds, it went back to normal and i noticed, one side of the road seemed a bit more dim, so I stopped for a bit to look, and it was the same dip bulb that had blown, so I got home and changed the bulb with the last one i had, then i had to go back into town to do a small amount of shopping, and as i left the shop, 10-20 mins after i arrived, i started the car up and it seemed ok, then i left the junction where the shop was and noticed the battery light on, wipers going fast again, and lights going brighter, so i pulled over in this small car park, where i had to look and see that it had blown again, minutes after i replaced it, and i continued to another shop, to get fish and chips, the entire journey, the battery light not going off this time, also the speedometer getting to 10mph, but then dropping to 0 suddenly, (also the fuel needle dropping to 0 the same time the speedometer needle drops) so i stopped, turned the car off and got my stuff from the fish and chip shop, started the car up and it, seemed ok (apart from the dip that blew earlier) but as i pulled off to go up a road to turn around and head back home, the battery light came on again, so i thought if i turn full beam on, put the fog light on and put all wipers on full would drain some of that charge, just to see if it would go off, it did for a while until i got up to speed, (speed limit, 30MPH) (by now i had put the full beam off and fog light off since i was in a town and there were more cars around) and it came on again, so i realised it didnt work and i put the wipers back to normal speed, and turn the fan back down, and continued back home, where the battery light was on for the entire journey. Im just wondering, as i think i know the signs but i just want to make sure, is it an alternator problem? Overcharging a bit too much? Or is it something else? Like a short circuit or something else?
  13. Hi All, This is my first post, I bought a Focus 1.8 TDCI LX 2005 5 days ago. Unfortunately it has already developed an intermittent starting problem, which leaves me feeling worried I've inherited a known problem here. Intermittently, the car just doesn't start, and instead the immobiliser light blinks. At first I thought it was a flat battery as it was cranking but was weak. Then after leaving it for a few mins it started just fine? Then again, the following the day, when turning the key, absolutely nothing. Seemed like a complete flat battery despite radio working. Then a few minutes later it started just fine. As of today, car is working absolutely normal, with no immobiliser flashing/ weak cranking. Car just starts perfectly. This is really strange! Any ideas? JP
  14. Focus 2012 charging battery

    Hi, I'm trying to help my father with his focus. It's a 2012 model and he feels the battery needs a charge as its frosty mornings and he's not using the car too much at the moment. The green battery light isn't shoing either. He said the manual doesnt fully cover removing and charging the battery so he's unsure if its just a case taking out as normal and charging (negative lead off first etc) but he's uncertain if its possible with newer batteries. It's a Finis 1693470 12v 100RC start stop battery. The manual mentions not connecting the negative cable to flat battery also but its not totally clear to understand in what circumstance it refers to, maybe he has to take to to Ford to replace? We'd appreciate some help with this, thanks.
  15. Hi there, Hoping that someone can help shed some light on what battery I need to get for my 2006 mk2 focus. I had a good look online, with different parts suppliers showing different batteries with different codes, leaving me completely confused! From what I have seen on previous threads, I need a silver calcium battery to fit the charging system?? Currently I have an AA "AA005 battery 64ah" battery that's on its way out (not holding it's charge) - confirmed by my friendly AA mechanic. If anyone can shed some light on a battery that would suit that doesn't bugger up my car that would be very much appreciated! So confused! Thanks in advance! Ed
  16. Hi my daughter has a 2001 Ford Ka 1.3, Had 2 new batteries recently and new Alternator but after approx. a month the battery when tested is coming up as replace and car needs to be jump started off a jump pack nearly every time but battery had got so bad even the jump pack wouldn't get it started. This has happened before so new battery installed and as mentioned new alternator, I see no evidence that this year\model has the smart charge system as when registration given to motor factor they sent replacement alternator and battery and couldn't see any evidence of the 3 pin smart charge cable in engine compartment of car of the socket on either the original or replacement alternator, battery supplied was also a Lion (63) 40Ah Calcium Technology battery. I charged the battery overnight last night and have taken the following readings from the battery Battery Voltage engine not started = 12.90 V Battery Voltage engine started = 13.98 V Battery Voltage engine started and lights on = 13.90 V Battery Voltage engine started, lights on and fan blower on max = 13.74 V Battery Voltage engine started and fan blower on max = 13.86 V Battery Voltage engine started nothing else on after car running for 10 minutes = 14.08 V So these readings tell me that the alternator is sending charge to battery and voltage is dropping as expected when various power draws are made on the battery\alternator but doesn't explain why over a period of days (I know current cold spell doesn't help) the battery will die again?? Any help gratefully accepted!!
  17. Hi, I would like to charge the battery on my Focus Titanium X Estate 1.6L Ecoboost. It has key-less entry and lives in the car park outside of my flat. Now I have no issue (besides the awkward positioning) removing the battery, however the car needs to be locked while I take the battery up to the flat to charge. However, I am yet to find a way to lock the car before removing the battery without the alarm going off as soon as I remove a terminal from the battery. I have tried normal locking procedure, single press of the button, using the key inside the key fob and all of them result in the alarm going off when I remove the terminal. Locking the driver's door with the physical key after the battery is disconnected works, but it leaves the other three doors unlocked. Does anyone know the correct procedure for this where I get the battery off to charge, whilst the car is secure and I don't end up severely upsetting the neighbours? Cheers
  18. battery.jpg

    From the album Johnny

    put in a heavier battery and other attachment
  19. Parasitic Draw?

    I have a 2012 Ford Focus Sedan MK3. About a week ago I started noticing problems starting my car. It would take a couple key turns before the engine would turnover, and the battery was very weak. As the week went on it got worse and worse until the car wouldn't start and the battery would go dead the more I tried. I got jumped it and took it to the shop to test out the battery. Battery tested fine, and it was charging in idle. After charging the battery I stopped at the gym for 1-2 hours, and the car started up fine, but after parking overnight the battery was completely dead once again in the morning. We concluded that there must be some sort of parasitic draw, but after doing a draw test and pulling fuses we couldn't locate the source of the draw. Anyone have a similar issue or any advice on where to start in locating the draw from here?
  20. I disconnected my Diesel 2007 Mondeo 12V car battery in the engine bay yesterday, only for about 2 seconds, to check the earth to body connection was good because it looked a little green in places on the surface - all was ok underneath so I tightened it up promptly. After this I had to put the Radio Code in again - all stations and SAT NAV settings and destinations were still present. This surprized me. But it got me thinking though I a radio code was needed... Are there any other effects by disconnecting the 12V car battery? Could it have wiped out anything else? Will anything have been lost from the e-Prom or ROM such as tuning settings or any other car setting? Only one effect I have noted is the tick over is slightly higher when it's warmed up. But then I'm not sure whether this was there before to be honest. I would appreciate any feedback. With Thanks
  21. Battery/Alternator Issue

    Hi all, I've had a look around the forums and have seen similar posts but thought it best to start a new one with my issue. About 2 weeks ago, I came to my Focus one morning and it wouldn't start. The battery had gone. Radio came on as I turned the key, but it didn't turn over. Jumped it, and it's been fine since. This morning, again came to my car to leave for work and exactly the same again. We jumped it, had a run around for a bit and came back home. Later this afternoon, it didn't start again, but after a few attempts it finally did without being jumped. Since then, it's started a few times this afternoon with no issue. We've had the battery checked this afternoon and it tests fine. Would the next step be having the alternator checked? I've been told today that alternators failing can give out a whirring noise, which come to think of it has been happening on and off for a few months but we've though nothing of it. It's a Focus zetec 2010 59 plate (2009). It'll be next week now before I can get to a garage. In the mean time, and to prepare me for costs, Is this the most likely culprit and does the whirring noise sound like it could be related? Thanks all!
  22. Hello! I've a problem with a Ford Focus MK2 and looking for advice as I don't want to run into mad costs, here's a quick introduction on what happened: Battery went flat - as radio and lights were turn on for too long without engine turned on. Car was jump started - it gained power back again, however it won't start. On ignition the lights on dashboard light up and it says 'Engine systems fault' and there's no error codes on OBD reader. Immobilizer is also rapidly flashing in red, then it starts giving a PATS code. Just as a note on ignition something in the engine makes noise - but it doesn't sound like any mechanical component. Could that be possible that instrument cluster forgot the keys? Are there any next steps I can take to solve the problem myself or with help of electrician? Looking forward hearing from you. Thank you! Adam
  23. MK1 Battery light

    Hi all, Today the battery light started appearing on the dashboard when I was in natural sat at traffic lights. The light would then go out once I got into first and pulled away. There's been no loss of power etc when the light is on and off. windows, radio, wipers etc all the same speed etc. Plus, the last couple of days the revs have got stuck at the 1,200 mark before making its way down to 8/900 (normal) when I drop into neutral. (Again, no issues on power or gear changes). Would these be linked or well timed separate issues? Any ideas on what could be causing it/them? Thanks!
  24. Hi, I' ve just purchased a Ford Focus Style 1.4 2006 plate. The car has 3 keys- 1 being central unlocking system remote. The car didn't unlock using the remote key so i put a new battery in the key fob- and its still not unlocking/locking the car. I have to use the key manually to unlock. Can anyone give me some advice? The engine starts etc and unlocks manually, i just cant unlock/lock car remotely Do i need a code to make this work again? Will the key be faulty? is there anywhere i can take it to be looked at? Thanks
  25. hi guys so when i try to turn on my car, the battery light comes up and it won't start. :/ I've bought a replacement alternator but i can't work out how to replace the old one. the two top bolts are easily accessible but i have no clue how to get to the bottom bolt or remove and replace the belt. :/ can anyone please give a guide or some useful tips? it would be much appreciated as I'm desperate to get it back on the road again XD thanks a lot, James :)