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Found 10 results

  1. Mk2 Immobiliser Problem

    Apologies - copied across from the wrong forum (Mk1) It should make sense....... I very specifically asked the cluster PCB "repairers" twice if they needed a key and they said that they did not, or at least didn't take me up on the offer. I assumed that they could interrogate the old one and reprogram accordingly. (I had re-soldered the female connector on the PCB a few months back to get rid of another fault code so I did not suspect that a new PCB was needed when I dropped the cluster in for repair, so never thought to take a key in.) The auto-electrician said that he used another reasonably local outfit and clusters always went with a key and they do come back, drop in and you were going again. Can I assume that the LED immobiliser fault code is really 1,5 (key not recognised) - there is definitely a slightly bigger gap between the second and third of the 6 flashes than there is between any of the last 3 (flash, long gap, flash, short gap, flash, very short gap, flash, very short gap etc.) When the connector solder failed, it actually came up with quite a few faults and went into limp home mode, and it was intermittent. At the time this was all Dutch to me, so I took it into my local garage, they ran a diagnostic and that came back with what seemed to be half a mile of paper listing the faults (all not real of course). It was them that put me wise to all of the dash hassles that all cars made over the past 10 years or so, can suffer from (according to legend, associated with lead-free solder). From there, YouTube, and hence the re-solder job that I did. The real hassle now, is knowing what to do as the total bill at the moment is already horrible, plus working extra hours to cover time off to get this sorted, and I have been without the car for about 3 weeks already. I doubt the auto-electrician can help with reprogramming based on what he implied when I spoke to him - very helpful, but he did not imply that that was something that he could do himself. I have also checked the website of the most likely outfit that he uses - near certainly ECUTesting at Heanor (the right town, which he did mention) - and online they claim only to be able to repair units, and send back any unrepairable units with just an inspection cost incurred. At the very least there is going to be an "interesting conversation" early tomorrow at the "repairers" in Leicester. One "tip" - when the car was with the main dealer and had the immobiliser fault, I said that I'd organise a tow to get it off their forecourt, to which the very helpful guy on the desk just said that he might be able to help with that. The car was driven round to reception and left running with the warning that if I stalled while getting home or when I switched off, that would be curtains and the immobiliser would be locked again. So there is a simple way to frig the immobiliser/circuit-board problem.
  2. Phil's Build Thread

    I never usually do this but I've never really had a car worth posting about before. I've recently become the proud owner of a 1.6 TDCI Ti Nav in Panther Black and I love it! I still want to bugger about with it and I want to put together a list of mods I want to do and stuff I want to buy (more for keeping track myself than anything else) and I'd appreciate any opinions, recommendations and links people may have. Firstly, there are some givens. Mine has the auto mirror and rain sensors but the upper section of the cover is missing. Didn't spot this before buying due to the way I was sat but I have to say it's niggling! If anyone has the part number I'd appreciate it! I also want to get some decent mats, preferably rubber but obviously fitted for the studs in the floor. Also a boot liner (hatchback). I'll be replacing as many bulbs as possible with LEDs, though I have read a lot of reliability issues with some sidelights. After those, the rest are in the 'maybe' pile I quite like the idea of wind deflectors but don't want the Halfords-Nailed-On look. Opinions? Illuminated gear knob would be nice (working on that one), maybe even the scuff plates... Bonnet lifters Reverse camera Front parking sensors (can be retrofit?) Some nice looking pedal covers DRLs. Preferably oem but price would probably mean 'fang' style Colour changing ambients. Following another thread I think this is possible Front window tint 18" alloys to replace my 16's Front bumper lip. Remap. New front and rear badges ( rear is going white round the edge and front has one hell of a stone chip - I read somewhere dealers replace these for free on less than 10 year old cars?) topped with gel coats. LED reflectors. I've seen this done with twin intensities for side and brake lights. Dunno how much of this will ever get done but it's nice to have a list! I also have a couple of questions if anyone can answer: Can the SYNC voice control be programmed to activate my phone directly? Or can the command choices for SYNC 1 be improved with a software update? Is there a way to re-calibrate the trip computer? My instant mpg is nearly always 99.9 when cruising at any speed and only drops when accelerating hard. £20 of fuel apparently buys me 700+ miles... What is the button nearest the driver for below the air con controls? I'll put up a pic if needed but the one I mean is next to the disable start/stop button in the same bank as the front and rear window heaters. It's blank in mine but I'd be interested to know if I can put whatever it is in! Heated seat maybe?
  3. Hi, First time poster looking for help (and I *did* do a search on this before posting, but nothing obvious popped up. My apologies if I missed something and have caused annoyance...;-)). My 2010 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi auto has an analogue instrument cluster and the light around the temperature gauge flickers intermittently. The gauge itself seems to be fine. I am lead to believe that the lights are LEDs rather than bulbs and that the only way to correct the flicker is to replace the entire instrument cluster. Is this correct? If so, stupid question No. 1, is there any difference between analogue clusters for manual and autos? Stupid question No. 2, is it possible to replace the analogue cluster with a digital one? Are the connections similar? Thanks for your time! Regards, djp
  4. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  5. tried to make as short and to the point as possible bare with please 😜 I have been having a few problems with my 06 plate 1.6 focus zetec, the much talked about engine system fault error, usually followed by 'reduced acceleration'. The car was booked in to be diagnosed however i decided to take out the cluster and have a bit of a fiddle which seemed to miraculously cure the problem for about a month! However the fault has returned and seems to be slowly getting worse over the last couple of days until today it showed the error and failed to start full stop for an hour and a half (started after that and drove it home). I'm attempting to take the cluster apart and clean the circuit board with a contact cleaner however I can't seem to access the front of the circuit board as compared to the ones I've seen from researching it is back to front in the casing?? I've read to prize the needles off with a spoon and access it that way however it feels to me like it's going to hurt the internals of it. I've attached a few pictures below, all feed is welcome as I am well and truly stumped 😊 Also the very back part of the plastic casing was caked with a dusty black substance, could this be a cause or something to do with it?
  6. Hi Guys, I'm having a problem with my dashboard's LCD. It happens sometimes when I unlock the car and the dashboard LCD light up. In the beginning (months ago), I used the have the problem when the car was under sunlight for a few hours. I live in Brazil, so the temperature inside the car easily gets to 50º+ celsius. Now, I'm having the problem even when the car is in my garage over the night. To explain better, I attached a picture. The instrument cluster and the trip computer works fine. Recently, the dashboard LCD texts started to dim as the car moves and vibrates. When I give a gentle tap around the LCD (on the silver part of the instrument cluster), the LCD texts brightness comes back to normal. These pixels border stays there until the LCD sleeps (after I lock the car and wait for around 10 minutes, for example). When I make the LCD light up again, 1 of 2 things may happen: Either the LCD comes back to normal (with no pixels border), or the pixels border comes back differently. I searched all over Focus forums and haven't found anyone with a similar problem. I wonder if it may be a LCD problem or a bad connected cable. I'm thinking on getting the instrument cluster off, firmly connect it again, and install the cluster back on. Any ideas, please? I'm starting to get desperated, since every electronical repair here in Brazil costs more than the car worth. Thanks in advance!
  7. Focus St 2013

    Can anyone point me to a help guide to remove cluster on this one. Many thanks
  8. hi to all i have a 1.6 focus petrol automatic zetec se .......i was driving home when i heard a rapid knocking sound from the engine that gets faster when accelerating and when slowing/stopping car idles irratic then stalls .......put 4 litres of 5w30 in.... now when trying to start dash and roof light go dim/off starter clicks once....tried jumping from another cars battery but leads got hot quick and i saw a tiny plume of smoke from middle of engine so.... is it wise to try and jump start again ? any idea about irratic idle and stall ? or what knocking noise is ? car wont start helpppppp....
  9. Hello everybody, Few days ago I bought Ford Focus, mk1, made in 2000, engine - 1.6 petrol. Yesterday, the first time after buying it, I came to the car, tried to turn on the ignition and nothing. The battery was dead. Alright. I knew my friend had one spare battery, 55ah, but we knew it's not realiable. We pulled out the dead one, putted in the non-reliable, i took a look to the dashboard and saw alarm light blinking. "It's alive!" - I tought. Got in the car, turned on the ignition and the lights in cluster were kind of blurry. Could not start the engine, because battery was pretty much dead. The thing I noticed, that the battery light did not came up when I turned on the ignition. Oil pressure light came up, handbrake light came up, airbag light came up, bet the battery light - didn't. Could it be because of dead battery? Sorry for my bad English, but I hope you'll get the idea of situation and my question :(
  10. Fiesta Mk6.5 Instrument Panel Lens

    I have recently purchased a Fiesta Zetec mk6.5 in relatively good condition. However there is a crack in the lens/plastic in front of the instrument panel, image link below. http://i45.tinypic.com/29w47pk.jpg The condensation is not as bad in person as the camera made it look worse :) Not sure how it was cracked. I haven't had chance to go to the dealer so not sure if it can be a quick fix but I've had a quick look on the internet but am unsure of whether the plastic can be replaced or repaired. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks :)