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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Found 17 results

  1. Hello , i am a new member to the forum but have been a silent stalker of the forum topics for a while.. I have recently bought (end of April 16 ) A used 2011 Focus, Titan-1.6- TD, it had 64k on the clock when i bought it from the dealer... Love the car but not the problems i have encountered in such a short period of time after purchase :( .. First off was the end of July i suddenly hear a loud knocking sound coming from the engine whilst sat at traffic lights almost a fast thudding/rattle when the clutch was depressed it was still there but less obvious , any way after searching the forums here , i came to the conclusion that it sounded like the DMF was the noise i was hearing (thank you to those that had answered others on a similar topic here ) So lucky for me , i was JUST within my 3 month warranty, so had the DMF and clutch replaced by Evans Halshaw, not without having to cry like a baby in the showroom first , not my usual behaviour but after being fobbed off after them having my car in their service centre for the whole day and then to be told in true (talking to a ditsy blond style) That diesel engines are supposed to sound like a bag of spanners being placed on spin cycle !!! :O That there was nothing wrong with the car, the noise was normal Hmmmm OK .. Treat me like a silly girl i will act like one, on this occasion it worked in my favour heheee and i then got a second more experienced opinion , resulting in the replacementof the clutch & DMF... So now a few months on and i seem to be having issues with my battery dying overnight and even when stopping for shopping after a long motorway drive from Oxford to Cardiff.. The push button start just makes a clicking sound and nothing, lights and computer all work when this happens? I have been told that diesel cars need to be driven on longer journeys often to maintain battery charge? Seems if it is driven and loses charge anyway overnight , surly there is a reason ? I had a 2013 model before and i could pretty much rely on it after being left parked up for a few days at a time (My ex took that with him) i ended up with the dud! anyway i am desperate to try and get this sorted as an unreliable car is all i have at the moment and i am struggling to know what to do about it, paid 8k for it so i don't really have the money to spend on this ATM , Is it likely this might be linked to something that was potentially damaged when the flywheel was going bad, can that affect other mechanics, battery drain an hour after driving it is surly extreme? has to be something draining it so fast , my auto stop start has never worked either and the bluetooth voice command doesn't work either ... Or have i just been unlucky? Thanks and apologies for the rant ;)
  2. Can anyone tell me the torque for flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel on a manual 2007 focus 1.6 tdci?
  3. DMF Question

    Hi everyone, I'm new to this site having just bought a Used Mondeo 1.6 Ecoboost. The engine is a 1.6 Duratorq TDCi. I have a sinking feeling the DMF is on the way out and wondered what everyone thinks? On tickover if I press the clutch peddle about an inch I get horrible metalic noise though no vibratation through the peddle. Once the peddle is pushed beyond that first inch, the noise stops. When I let the peddle back up the noise comes back when I get to the last inch but stops when the peddle reaches the top. I dont know if it is related but when I start the engine it starts with just a half second of a crunch noise before going to a normal smooth diesel tick over. The clutch is not slipping. Any thoughts please?
  4. Chaps I finally bit the bullet and bought a recon gearbox to swap out my one that's missing 5th gear. So, being as the old one has got to come off, it's a good idea to change the clutch and CSC too. I've been searching for the parts but have a problem with the part code I need. I want a Sachs (not LUK) kit which after reading a few forums posts seems the better quality part. There are two Sachs part codes though and both seem to be for only the clutch and cover plate without the CSC: 3000 951 866 & 3000 970 003 My car is the MK4 2.0 TDCI 140HP model and qualifies for both part numbers. Does anyone know what the difference between these two items is?
  5. Hi, I have just noticed a slight noise in 5th & 6th gear on my 2.0 tdci 2006 s max, any ideas?
  6. I own a 2005 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi. I have owned her about a year and currently has around 122k miles on the clock. Since I purchased the car a whole bunch of things seem to keep happening. There are however 2 issues right now: 1) Noisy engine, this is coming from the Aux belt / Crankshaft pulley. 2) DMF is failing, it is grating into the starter motor which I had replaced around 5 months ago. It also noticeably squeaks when I use light engine breaking. I am looking to purchase all the required parts and get a mechanic to replace what is needed. For problem 1 I have so far purchased: Crankshaft Pulley: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150856526547?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Belt: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300616403475?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D300616403475%26_rdc%3D1 I intend to purchase a tensioner also since I hear it could be causing the issues: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Mondeo-Alternator-Belt-Auxiliary-tensioner-Mk3-2-2-2-0-TDCI-Drive-Fan-/140859877567?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AMondeo%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item20cbe728bf For problem 2 I am looking to purchase: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-TDCI-6SP-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-REPLACEMENT-FLYWHEEL-CLUTCH-CSC-BOLTS-/371122786745?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AMondeo&hash=item5668a451b9 Are these the right bits I am looking at, anything else I should be considering? Any advice would be appreciated :)
  7. Hi Guys New to posting but have read many posts that have been very helpful indeed! My story is this: 55 Plate Mondeo 2ltr 130 tdci with 146k motorway miles. Firstly like to say that I love this car, it's a great car that takes me on a journey of 33 miles each way to work 5 days a week and gives me 650 miles per tank. Good enough for me for the mileage it's done! I changed the starter motor 3 months ago as I was experiencing the dreaded howl of a dying starter and I'm aware that I will be facing the not so wallet happy task of converting over to an SMF and new clutch. Got a decent price from a local supplier for about £280 for the parts and a good mate with lots of experience to replace the parts for me. The issue's I'm getting are: Smoke on semi hard acceleration Clutch pedal seems to snag occasionally Jumps into limp mode if I have to accelerate above 3k revs when cold. Having read lots of info on the smoke, I am confused over the egr valve blanking plate trick versus having the injectors reconditioned, what works best, if any? The clutch pedal issue I believe not to be that serious but probably a mechanical snag in and around the foot well but yet to properly investigate. The limp mode inconvenience I am putting down to temperature and age or could it be something else??? Any help to the above from your vast knowledge is much appreciated. Cheers Steve
  8. Hi all, First time posting and I wish it were under better circumstances. I have recently had my car in for a service and MOT and the mechanic has advised that my DMF needs replacing (advisory). Having since been told this I have started to become aware of the problem myself. Currently the car starts and drives fine, there is slight shuddering when idle and also when I'm traveling at 2000rpm but I tend to change gears at around that mark. Is this wrong? Can anyone advise the best way to drive to drag the most life out of my DMF? The other and main point of this post is how long can I leave seeing to the DMF before it actually fails? Should and can I drive with this for say 4-5 months (Average 1000-1200 miles per month) as it is at the early stage? The car has only covered 58,400 miles so I thought something like this would of lasted longer but I do drive in a city for 15-20 minutes 5 days a week. As a lot of you may know this is an expensive job and I've had quotes ranging from £650-£1200 to get it fixed (DMF,clutch, and bearings replaced). I reckon it will take 4-5 months to save the cash for the job since I also need to live during this time. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  9. I have a Ford Mondeo 55 Plate with 105k miles on the clock, since I purchased it everything seems to have gone wrong. A bad decision on my part however most of nastiness has been fixed. Simply put recently it was having issues starting so I have had just got the starter motor replaced, the mechanic has said the DMF is on the way out and the starter motor was full of loads of metal filings. The new starter has a plastic housing protecting the bit which matters so he said it would not have further problems with the metal getting inside *however* I can hear a slight squeaking coming from inside the engine and I suspect it is about to go or going to go at some point soon potentially causing more damage. Do it just let this happen or should I be pre-emptive and get it replaced, the garage quoted me £500 when I asked about the cost of changing it, a full days labour. Any opinions would be appreciated!
  10. Hiya, just got my car back from the garage after £1100 work fixing a new clutch and flywheel. My mondeo zetec (2010) Tdci only has 35000miles on the clock. Is this normal? Has anyone else had unexpected clutch failures? Is it a well known problem of mondeos? Thanks for your help and input Anska
  11. I have recently bought a 2008 Mk4 Mondeo 1.8 TDCi 6 speed, The clutch is slipping so needs replacing, I have had some quotes :o , The Dual Mass Flywheel feels and sounds fine, but some mechanics are insisting on replacing the DMF, But at an extra £400+ its a little too much at the min, I have researched a conversion to Single Mass Flywheel, however, some are advising NOT to convert, I can see the logic (A DMF has a purpose, therefore should not be changed to single), also is it advisable not to change the CSC and replace with a 2 piece clutch? Any advice much appreciated.
  12. I have a 2003 2 ltr tdci mondeo. I haven't had it long and the.other week i had to put a new starter on it. When i took the starter to a guy to see if he could refurb it (which he couldnt,so i bought a new one from local car parts shop) he said there was metal filings in it which could be a sign of the dreaded dmf failure. Well the new starters been on for no.more.than.a couple of weeks which in that time hasn't even been started every day and it seems its failed again. I went to start it yesterday and the dials went around on the dash like they do when you reconnect the.battery and then struggled to start almost like a flat battery. This happened for the next couple of times of starting but now it doesn't even try to start you just get the click noise which is associated with a non working starter. Could the dmf problem cause the starter to stop working after this very short space of time or could it be something else? Its the dials going around and the struggling to start that confuses me. oh and i have managed to bump start it
  13. hello, i have just joined the forums today searching for some help on my 2004, 1.8 mk3 mondeo i bought the car about 3 weeks ago and since buying it it has been shuddering under acceleration normally when i reach around 40mph mainly happens in 3rd and 4th and when i get fast enough in 5th that too....when i take my foot off the accelerator it stops, ive had it to my friend (mechanic) and he had a good look over the drive shafts etc and checked the wheels etc he finally diagnosed the problem as 1 of two things, 1. the pressure plate OR 2. the flywheel... atm i cant really afford to do either atm so have left it but just the other day i had noticed i was doing about 55mph in 4th with no shuddering it lasted a few days at that before retuning to normal...it has left both me and my mechanic stumped though he stll thinks clutch/gearbox/flywheel issues so i thought i'd take it to the forums and see if anyone could recommend anything atall *edit* the clutch is somewhat spongy though my friend thinks its because of bent fins on the pressure plate thanks alot in advance Danny
  14. Hi I have just had my clutch and Dual Mass Fly Wheel (DMF) replaced on my 2005 (late 55 facelift) 1.8 TDCI Since picking it up I get a Knocking noise when releasing clutch in any gear. Sound comes from near side of the car. I am also getting a Vibration through clutch. Any suggestions? More history. When they replaced the clutch they found they had the wrong DMF. Refitted everything then took apart again to fit clutch and DMF. When it came to re doing the clutch and flywheel the DMF was not fitted correctly, resulting in the car dropping power and showing Engine System Failure. Note: there was no knocking when changing gear. Took car back. They refitted the DMF and the car drives fine apart from the knocking when releasing clutch and the vibration. They said the knocking was due to the teeth on the gearbox / clutch coming together due to gap tolerances but I'm not sure I buy that. I have scoured the forums which suggest possibly Gearbox mount. This is possible I guess if they had to remove gearbox 3 times. But I'm not sure. Anyone had the same issue or suggest what the knocking is and the vibration, I would appreciate it as I'm taking car back again on Saturday.
  15. Dmf Or Solid Flywheel

    Hi all, this is my first post, I have a 2006 focus 1.8 tdci with 111k on the clock, clutch is slipping and had a noise coming from engine bay and 2 mechanic ( one a ford mechanic) said the noise was the thrust bearing so new clutch. I am buying the parts myself and a mate is fitting it for £120 but need to know if mine is a solid or dmf flywheel, is it possible to know this before taking the car to bits?? and i see you can change from dmf to solid. what is peoples thinking on this too?? thanks
  16. I had a bit of a discussion with another member on here about whether its a good idea or not,so I'm just back from the leading Transmission specialists in Scotland ( Charles Butler Forfar) & I asked Gav the foreman about this,and his answer........ DON'T DO IT! He said its a bad idea. He said its ok for transit vans,but not for cars. He said if your DMF needs replacing,then replace it with a proper replacement DMF. Mentioned the same thing as I did,about the vibrations etc,& they DO shake to bits eventually. When I got this conversion on FOUR cars,alongside a remap,eventually they knackered the gear-box.Not maybe,DEFINITELY EVERY TIME! And Im no boy racer at 47yr old,so its not a case of me raggin my cars,quite the opposite. I learned the really expensive way.Id say in all Ive spent about 2000 repairing damage done by SMF conversion.Its crazy,its the cheaper option,but I guarantee you it'll ruin your car in the end. If I can stop one person from doing this conversion,then I'd be happy knowing that someone else's car isnt gonna turn into a liability the way mines did(all four). So,to the guy who disagreed with me,mate do yourself a favour & ask around 1st.You might just start to see sense,& rip that solid chunk a crap outta there,& put a proper DMF in. Oh,and they a good DMF will definitely handle the torque from a remap,unless youre tanning your motor all the timem,in which case whatever. remember that all this company does is transmissions & clutch/dmf etc,7 days a week,52 weeks a year. He's been going for about 40 odd years,and he knows his stuff,so upto you guys from here. If you wanna listen to companies thatve only stopped messing their nappies,then so be it,but dont say I didnt try to give you advice 1st
  17. Hi all, bit of a problem with my mk1.5 1.8 tdci. Since owning the vehicle (bought from a Ford Dealer in February) there has been a rattle nasty clonk/rattle on switch off. The noise is too harsh to be a heat plate etc. Now my concern is the car drives fine there is just a rattle/clonk when I switch the engine off (with clutch down and up) - I have done 5,000 miles since owning the vehicle and the car has not given any problems. If I sit in traffic for more than 3 seconds with the clutch down and handbrake on (like I was taught to do many many years ago) I can feel the vibrations from the transmission going up through my left foot, I assume this to be normal running from a lumpy derv. I am just this moment about to jack the car up and check all mounts - does anyone have any advice? I believe the lower engine mount would cause a clonk on switch off - but I'd imagine more knocking would occur on the move. I believed it to be the DMF and returned the car to the dealer within a month of owning the vehicle, informed them it was just on switch off and they were as unhelpful as ever and informed me that the noise was coming from the flywheel area, but could not confirm it (tbh I doubt they looked at the vehicle at all.) The vehicle starts fine, pulls throughout the rev range (no clutch slippage) I'm fairly gentle on the car, always allow the car to get up to temperature before using over 50% throttle and exceeding 2.2k RPM and the car behaves the same whether on a 400+mile journey or on my daily commute. I'm going to attempt to contact the garage in the week and inform them that they need to sort the fly, clutch and slave cylinder under the 6 month warranty as the noise had been there since purchase as they well knew. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.