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Found 66 results

  1. Hi 07 Ford Focus C-max 1.6 TDCi Ghia 5d CVT Auto (Euro 4). There are many forum posts and threads on the TDCI power loss on acceleration, but I can’t find one with my own version... As per many others, if I accelerate hardish out of a roundabout or junction then power loss happens followed by stall / cut out. This is with my auto gearbox in Drive. So maybe EGR, maybe DPF, maybe fuel pump, maybe air/fuel lines, maybe ECU as per others posts. Yes I get the code P2002 DPF efficiency below threshold. I have the P2584 fuel additive ELYOS level one, and I get U0073 control module comm bus A off, which I think is secondary. But people have addressed all these and made no difference. If I clear them and retry, the fault happens (every time now) but the codes dont come back straight after, or even as pending, until some normal driving later. Here’s the thing... if I switch my gearbox into the semi auto side (M, and +/-), I can accelerate to my hearts content, keep in low gears rev to 4000 and hold it there - fine no issues. So it can’t be mechanical, fuel line, EGR? Maybe electronics associated with the auto? Anyone tried this experiment or can explain it? I put some wynns dpf cleaner in and have been driving at over 2000 to try to kick in regen, but no change yet. Car is rusty, not worth spending on maybes of EGR, fuel pump, even the DPF additive and ecu reset I’m tight on! thanks Dorian
  2. EGR/DPF problems?

    Bought my 2nd Ford diesel (Titanium ECOnetic 1.6 Fiesta, 2014 mk 7.5) 3 months ago from a very reputable dealership. Previous diesel was 1.4TDCi climate, 2008. Have had 10 previous cars since the 80's, all petrol though. Liked the Fiesta diesel as used for frequent long trips between March & November. 27k on the clock, first 2 months had worry-free motoring with great mpg. · · BUT In mid-October, 10 days after the last long trip, the fan was running for 4 minutes after ignition off. Never did this when it was hotter weather & nearer 20C ambient temp. Rang dealership, was told it was DPF regeneration & “not to worry”. Was travelling 100 miles that night, but noticed the journey had much reduced mpg by over 22%.from frequent trips before...mpg stayed much lower until had returned, then picked up again. Rang dealership on return, no appointment available for 2 weeks...so took car back early November. · Left car for 3 hours, was told that the EGR valve had frozen open, "see how it goes". Was apprehensive coz warranty expired in 2 days... but assured the "error codes" had been deleted. Assumed the valve had been cleaned as it had been indicated via error code. · Drove another long trip (over 200 miles, mainly motorway) 3 days later. First leg fine, as normal, second leg on return showing reducing mpg again - perfect conditions & rpm over 2k most of the way. · Next morning did short journey (2.5 miles) & fan started running after ignition off. Did the same with fan overrunning for 3 days (all short journeys). Mpg plummeted. If it were DPF regeneration, I had just done a long trip the day before this started! Only reason I could think was EGR stuck open again - sending more particles through the DPF, even on a perfect regeneration trip. Rang dealership, but next appointment was in 2 days... · Mpg now over 30% down but fan had stopped running after ignition off. This time was told "fan should run after short journeys anyway" & “it uses more fuel in cold weather!!” (what doesn’t? lol) & "we never physically looked at the EGR valve, just cleared the error codes & did 5 updates on the software". Been asked to monitor all dashboard readings . As far as I could, I had already done so! Have fuel receipts & mileage details. ECU didn't even register the last regeneration date after these updates the week before. Mpg down from 67 (normal) to 41 at worst (4 days ago). · No error codes at all now - but obviously SOMETHING IS WRONG – most likely the EGR valve? Should I get an independent report of the actual physical mechanics, & not rely just on laptop readings as the dealership do? · Since I went there a few days ago, there has been no fan overrunning at all & mpg is slowly climbing again, but still 15% down from normal. Dealership did nothing except check laptop ECU readings. Think the EGR valve may be sticky in colder weather, but I'm not a mechanic… Now waiting for next faulty cycle, in the meantime not good for my peace of mind. I have heart trouble myself & I am also primary carer for someone who relies on this transport in an emergency. I’m definitely not a mechanic but I have a brain to try & understand… very disappointed after paying full screen price for a 2014 Ford from a Ford Dealership I trusted. Ford UK take note please! (apparently this version unavailable in US). ·
  3. Bought my 2nd Ford diesel (Titanium ECOnetic 1.6 Fiesta, 2014 mk 7.5) 3 months ago from a very reputable dealership. Previous diesel was 1.4TDCi climate, 2008. Have had 10 previous cars since the 80's, all petrol though. Liked the Fiesta diesel as used for frequent long trips between March & November. 27k on the clock, first 2 months had worry-free motoring with great mpg. · · BUT In mid-October, 10 days after the last long trip, the fan was running for 4 minutes after ignition off. Never did this when it was hotter weather & nearer 20C ambient temp. Rang dealership, was told it was DPF regeneration & “not to worry”. Was travelling 100 miles that night, but noticed the journey had much reduced mpg by over 22%.from frequent trips before...mpg stayed much lower until had returned, then picked up again. Rang dealership on return, no appointment available for 2 weeks...so took car back early November. · Left car for 3 hours, was told that the EGR valve had frozen open, "see how it goes". Was apprehensive coz warranty expired in 2 days... but assured the "error codes" had been deleted. Assumed the valve had been cleaned as it had been indicated via error code. · Drove another long trip (over 200 miles, mainly motorway) 3 days later. First leg fine, as normal, second leg on return showing reducing mpg again - perfect conditions & rpm over 2k most of the way. · Next morning did short journey (2.5 miles) & fan started running after ignition off. Did the same with fan overrunning for 3 days (all short journeys). Mpg plummeted. If it were DPF regeneration, I had just done a long trip the day before this started! Only reason I could think was EGR stuck open again - sending more particles through the DPF, even on a perfect regeneration trip. Rang dealership, but next appointment was in 2 days... · Mpg now over 30% down but fan had stopped running after ignition off. This time was told "fan should run after short journeys anyway" & “it uses more fuel in cold weather!!” (what doesn’t? lol) & "we never physically looked at the EGR valve, just cleared the error codes & did 5 updates on the software". Been asked to monitor all dashboard readings . As far as I could, I had already done so! Have fuel receipts & mileage details. ECU didn't even register the last regeneration date after these updates the week before. · No error codes at all now - but obviously SOMETHING IS WRONG – most likely the EGR valve? Should I get an independent report of the actual physical mechanics, & not rely just on laptop readings as the dealership do? · Since I went there a few days ago, there has been no fan overrunning at all & mpg is slowly climbing again, but still 15% down from normal. Dealership did nothing except check laptop ECU readings. Think the EGR valve may be sticky in colder weather, but I'm not a mechanic… Now waiting for next faulty cycle, in the meantime not good for my peace of mind. I have heart trouble myself & I am also primary carer for someone who relies on this transport in an emergency. I’m definitely not a mechanic but I have a brain to try & understand… very disappointed after paying full screen price for a 2014 Ford from a Ford Dealership I trusted. Ford UK take note please! (apparently this version unavailable in US). ·
  4. Ford Focus MK2

    Hi, I wonder if anyone can help. I have a 2006 focus 2.0 TDCI, the car has been "juddering" occasionally when driving, it feels like its starved of fuel when it judders and happens intermittently I have done all the usual thing like injector cleaner etc clean the EGR valve changed the MAF sensor but the problem is still there. I have had it put on the diagnostics and it came back with no faults. One of the pipes to the DPF had perished last year so I made a temporary fix with a piece of copper pipe inside the rubber pipe until I could get a replacement. It stayed this way for maybe 6 months until it went again and I had the garage replace the split pipe. So I wonder if it could be the DPF causing the intermittent fault, howver if I run the car with the either the MAF sensor or the EGR valve disconnected (Electrical connection) the fault goes away. Any advice would be gladly accepted
  5. Hi ive got a 57 reg focus 1.6 diesel , i got a message saying engine fault , ive had it into a garage that does dpf's , they had it for afew days and checked the wiring and they said they got it down to the addative tank . They gave me a price and said to do it they rang the next day and said it would be 3-4 days to get the part . Its been 3 weeks now they just keep saying they are going to chase it up but dont seem to be getting anywhere , ive rang up 4 different garages to a price but not 1 rang me back . Are these bad jobs to do also are they ford only parts rang fords and they want £610 for the tank . Codes on car are p1922-60 , p1928-20 , p2585-21 , p2584-21, the tank got filled and reset so its not the problem.
  6. Hello All, I am having a large issue with my Ford Focus 2013 1.6 TDCI. A Few months ago I was driving when i suddenly got the dreaded engine management light and a constant message of ENGINE MALFUNCTION SERVICE NOW. It continued to drive fine but then dropped into limp mode. I took it took my independant garage who done a regen and it fixed the issue. Month later the issue came up again. This time i took it to an official ford company who diagnosed 3 Faults. one with the grill system which i have no idea what they mean, they mentioned taking it apart which could be costly to find the broken part. they then mentioned that might not even fix it and that there is a glowplug in the DPF which may be causing the problem then of course the usual DPF clogged up with SOOT mainly because of the other issues. obviously to get all this fixed and the labour is going to cost me alot. Is there anyone who can help with my understanding of the issue and if it is possible for an independant garage to fix. Thanks Jamie
  7. 2.0tdci dpf sensor?

    Hi guys, I have a 2.0tdci Focus 06 144k miles. I live quite rural and regularly drive 100 miles per day (60 of which is motorway/country lanes). A few weeks back on the motorway I lost all accelaration power. The engine still idled but would not accelerate. I pulled over, restarted the car and all was fine. Approx 1000 miles later engine management light came on with p2453 and p2454 (apparently meaning the same thing?) and went into limp mode and has got progressively worse. Anyway I assumed this was somehow the dpf, so I cleared codes and took it to 4k revs for 15 minutes. I've done this approx 5 times. 3 of the 5 times I've had a white puff of smoke but this doesn't cure the codes or limp mode. It would appear I have to accelerate it up to 4k revs for a few minutes before it decides to drive normally. It will at some point inevitably go into limp mode again though. Any ideas what this is? I've tried to follow the pipes on the sensor located next to the battery and couldn't seem to find a hole. Could it be the sensor itself? Or something else?
  8. Hi all, I'm fighting a losing battle against rust with my MK2 Focus saloon and starting to consider other options as a relatively cheap replacement. I know the 2.2 TDCI in the MK3 ST is the Ford Puma unit but struggling to find out if it has a dpf? (I know they fitted a DPF when it was fitted to Jaguars after a certain build date) I've enjoyed the bulletproof reliability of my 1.8 TDCI Lynx engine with no DPF and have no desire to add to the stress in my life by waiting for a DPF to block! Could any of the regulars that have had a MK3 ST TDCI or still have once confirm if the model ever had a DPF fitted?
  9. DPF issues

    I've read online that there are a lot of issues with the DPF's. Costs around £800 to get it replaced and should be done around 80k mileage. I am looking to buy a 2009 Fiesta 1.6 Titanium diesel and it done 68,000 miles but has had full Ford service history. I know its got heavy corrosion on the rear section of the exhaust. Just wanted to hear from others if they have had any issues with the DPF.
  10. Hello Just wanted to share with you all, the brief history of my Focus bought from evans halshaw 2 weeks ago for 9k added - new interior mats, wind deflectors, carbon look font pressed No. Plates and holders, painted calipers green.... looks good imo.... performs a lot better than its good looks since having it dpf'd and remapped. Learning a little on performance i now know that manufactures badge power and actual power are not the same. My 163bhp (badge power) on the DYNO was 119.8bhp and 273.4 Torque (ft-lb) before surgery and 172.7bhp and 393.1 Torque afterwards............. lots more fun to drive. Im also told that its the Torque which is the force that pins you back in your seat when traffic light drag racing??? Please feel free to add your comments
  11. C-Max II DPF removed ?

    Hi all, After driving a Ka for years we've gotten a 2009 1.6 diesel C-Max. Today i've changed the oil and filter and bought some time ago special cleaner fluid for the DPF. As of now i am thinking that the previous owner swapped out the DPF and removed it and remapped the ECU. Fordscan is showing the results as shown below. I have not noticed any regeneration when driving and the DP-DPF is 12 kPa when the key is on ignition without the engine running. With engine running / driving the DP_DPF stays at 12 kPa. I also noticed that there are no connection / tubes going to the DPF. Last month i've went to the TÜV ( something like MOT ) and no problems there. The 100 dollar question: Is the DPF removen / gutted out or is there something else ? Regards, Barry
  12. Hi all i got mondeo 2009 all the time saying diesel filter overloaded,and i am losing half of the power.sometimes is a normal not problem.today i drive 100km into 4th gear 3000rpm but the cleaning process didnt start.this is a new dpf unit.what shoud i do.i change the oil all the mesages gone after one day again diesel filter overloaded.
  13. Dpf problems

    Hi just got a focus 1.6 tdci , its 90'000 miles not much info about car ive been told its had the dpf oil done . Well i got a engine fault which was dpf p2458-21 and p242f-61 . Ive managed to clear the faults with forscan and it come out of limp mode . Ive run the car with the live data showing its says ashfull 0.0 , regen 33.00 dpf pressure 13.5 , i noticed the temperature of dpf getting upto 600'c and after around 10 mins driving on motor way it would cool down and dist regen would 0 , but it does it again after around 10-15 mins temp rise the dist regen 0 . Ive not had a car with a dpf is it saying the dpf is full and wont clean thats why it keeps trying to clean ? Can the values be reset or is it a case of new dpf ( or a deep clean ) ? , many thanks
  14. Dpf problems

    Hi just got a focus 1.6 tdci , its 90'000 miles not much info about car ive been told its had the dpf oil done . Well i got a engine fault which was dpf p2458-21 and p242f-61 . Ive managed to clear the faults with forscan and it come out of limp mode . Ive run the car with the live data showing its says ashfull 0.0 , regen 33.00 dpf pressure 13.5 , i noticed the temperature of dpf getting upto 600'c and after around 10 mins driving on motor way it would cool down and dist regen would 0 , but it does it again after around 10-15 mins temp rise the dist regen 0 . Ive not had a car with a dpf is it saying the dpf is full and wont clean thats why it keeps trying to clean ? Can the values be reset or is it a case of new dpf ( or a deep clean ) ? , many thanks
  15. Focus 2008 TDCI Zetec DPF Problem

    Hi All I have recently been having intermittent problems with my Focus losing power and "jerking" when driving on the motorway, now the engine malfunction warning has come up and the car has gone into limp mode. I got the RAC out to diagnose and he said it was the DPF, I got a look at the computer when he did it and I think it said P2458 and something about ash buildup. I was wondering if this means the DPF has gone too far to try and recover through cleaning it. Halfrauds sell a DPF cleaning service which is only £80 but obviously £80 I don't want to spend if its not going to make a difference. The RAC man was under the impression it would cost over a grand to sort out, and most of the cost would be for that part and not labour as its easy to fit apparently. I have looked on euro car parts and a new DPF costs £280 so I am wondering where he got that figure from. Would a £280 DPF be suitable for a replacement? I have also seen one on eBay for £180. Or am I better off taking a gamble with the £80 clean first? Thanks
  16. Hi Guys, I've using the ODBC cable recently with forscan to get a more indepth knowledge of the health of my car. In particular I wanted to read stats on the DPF including the distance to ashful (when i'll have to fork over upwards of €1000 to replace :( ) and tracking the regens. However when I go to forscan, add the PIDs and start recording the DPF values give me nothing. Theres no pressure, 0.0, 100k km to ashfull (assume this is a default value?) and 0.0 since last regen. Is there something I'm missing here? is it my cable? I have an ELM327 cable that I got from my dad. It can read the RPM PID just fine so I assume it is working.. Im just idling in the driveway here as well but I wouldn't have thought I need to be driving to read these values.
  17. Buying second hand

    I am thinking about buying a new (to me) car. I prefer diesel cars (My last two were a Mondeo Deisel and a Honda Accord Diesel). I have been toying with the idea of a Focus Diesel. For what I am looking to spend (About £4-5K), there seem to be some pretty good ones available. However, with the known issue of the DPF, I wonder if buying a second hand Focus might be a bad idea One thing that concerns me is that I have read that however well you look after your DPF (ie. Motorway driving etc…), it will eventually clog up (Natural, I suppose) and that it will usually need replacing after about 80-100K I prefer to keep to main dealers for anything other than small jobs and have read that the replacement could cost anywhere from £1,000-3,500. Is this correct? If so, with many of the second hand Focuses I have looked at being around that mileage, they might not be such good deals after all I don’t want to go down the route of having it gutted, which is technically illegal. I prefer to keep things as they are supposed to be I would always expect to get around 200,000 miles from a diesel engine, so to need to do this at least twice by then would really make it pretty expensive Add to this that high revving on the motorway on a weekly basis rather takes away from the benefits of the good fuel economy available With so many Focuses for sale with around 80-100K on the clock, I suspect many of them are being sold because they have started to have DPF issues There’s no question that whatever car I get, there will be things I need to be aware of, but if looking to avoid gutting and re-mapping and also sticking to main dealers (Both of which I would prefer), this would seem to be a pretty big and potentially very expensive issue Thoughts?
  18. Hi Guys 1.6 TDCI Ford Focus My DPF is blocked. car has gone into limp mode, doesn't rev past 3k. Have cleared faults and they return back. Have tried to carry out a force regen using snapon but was unable to carry out force regen, it states that the dpf is highly blocked for the regen to start. Have also sprayed some DPF cleaner foam into the dpf but that didn't work. Now was wondering if you could remove the dpf and give it a good wash/clean using pressure washer? Has anyone tried pouring brake cleaner through and leaving it overnight for the solvent to break down all the crud from inside the filter and then giving it a good blast with pressure washer? Thanks Cameron
  19. Evening all, I was just wondering if anyone could help as I have no idea what the part is that I need to get but see attached its a plastic bit that connects the hoses to the turbo and engine that has burst. I suspected my turbo had failed as the car juddered pretty hard while driving home from London to Nottingham today however all I could hear was a whistle and a serious loss of power when I put my foot down. On closer inspection when I got home I found that it had a hole in the part circled, is this a serviceable replaceable part? If so does anyone know what the part number is or what I should be looking for? My vehicle if you need details is a 1.6 TDCi 2008 zetec hatchback Any help would be much appreciated.
  20. Hello, Can anyone tell me what exactly triggers an active dpf regeneration to occur? (2008 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI) I've noticed (using forscan) that the dpf is regenerating approx every 100 miles. This seems very excessive especially considering the differential dpf pressure is well within the acceptable range when these regens are kicking off. Are regens triggered based on mileage? If so is there anything I can do to increase the mileage interval between regens? I've searched online and haven't been able to find an answer yet. Thanks :)
  21. The engine management light came on in my 2008 2.0 diesel mondeo recently. The garage read the code and it is something to do with a blocked diesel particulate filter. I have put some forte DPF cleaner and re-generator fluid into the fuel, and will drive on the motorway at a high speed non-stop for 30 minutes (maybe up to an hour) to see if that will regenerate / clear out the DPF. Would the engine management light automatically turn off if this were to resolve the problem? The garage told me it would, however from reading various forums it seems like lots of people include the cost of resetting the sensor in their repair bills... so, I'm confused as to whether this would actually be the case. The next part of my question is, if that doesn't work there seems to be three other options: - put in a combination of various cleaning fluid (sorry, not sure on the details of what they were, but I was told they would put them directly into the DPF), and hope for the best (garage told me that would be £140, but it was quite likely that it would be a very temporary fix) - remove the DPF, open it up, manually clean it, then (they said) weld it back together (£250) - put a new one on (somewhere between £300 and £400) Interested to hear opinions on which is the most sensible option. I came across this item - if this DPF seems so cheap, why would the whole job cost so much? http://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/Products.aspx?ID=NAAzADMANQAzADQANwA2ADQAdwBYAEwAbABJACcAWABcAE4AIwAhAFgANwA%3D&gclid=CLHVqsD26M0CFQkq0wodXDIHRg Any help appreciated! Thanks
  22. Hi all, I've been having DPF problems with my 1.6 TDCI focus (2010, 76K miles), and need a bit of advice on decisions going forward. I haven't found one post that really explores different DPF options together clearly, so hopefully this will prove useful for others. Symptoms and diagnosis: - Car's acceleration had become poor and there was less power overall, which was more noticeable on uphill climbs. This was shortly after getting it serviced (changed oil, air and fuel filters) so I was intending to take it back to the garage to make sure all the pipes were connected back properly etc. - Before I had a chance to get to the garage the engine management light came on and car went into Limp mode (car restricted to 3,000prm max). There were a few occasions in the week before when I turned the car off and the engine fan remained on for a few minutes, which I believe is due to a DPF regeneration being interrupted before it could finish. - The garage diagnostic tool found two fault codes (P242F: DPF restriction-Ash accumulation and P2463: DPF soot accumulation). After clearing the codes, P242F was removed and the car gets out of Limp mode, but P2463 remains and engine management light stays on. The things I have tried so far: 1. Bought a modified ODB cable to connect my laptop to car and downloaded Forscan to get some live data on car sensors to confirm the problem and check potential causes. DPF sensor seems too high. When I rev it to around 3K rpm it jumps to around 15-20kPa. I believe 5kPa should be the max for a well functioning DPF, so this seems to confirm the DPF issue (as well as poor acceleration). I would recommend all owners of a Ford car to install Forscan on their computers or download the app as it really gives you some tools for diagnosing/fixing problems yourself. 2. Added Wynn's DPF cleaner to fuel tank and took car for a run at high revs down the motorway. I recorded live DPF pressure sensor and it reached 40kPa at one point. I found out after further reading that with the engine light on for code P2463 the car will no longer automatically start a DPF regeneration, so I don't think this method can be a cure in my case, but rather good practise now and again to ensure you don't run into DPF problems down the line. 3. Tried to do a manual regeneration using Forscan, but it stopped after initialising due to high soot content in DPF. I believe this is a safety precaution as manual regeneration can raise the temperature in the DPF to 600 degrees. Options to resolve problem: The car runs fine apart from poor acceleration, but I've been trying to use it as little as possible to avoid damage, and I could really do with some advise now on getting this resolved. I believe I have the following options, but I have no clue which would be the best one to take (if I have missed anything can you please add the option to this discussion): 1. Replace DPF- I've read that the DPF will need replacing after 75K miles (which means I am due for a replacement), to I could buy a new DPF part and have the garage fit it. This would hopefully solve the problem, but I am aware that there may have been other faults which have led to the DPF becoming blocked. The top two main culprits may be a stuck EGR valve or the Turbo leaking oil. Both would lead to the DPF becoming blocked again, so I would therefore need to get the EGR valve inspected and cleaned as well as the turbo inspected. I think this option will cost me around £500 in total with an aftermarket DPF (roughly half the total for parts and labour each). Questions: - Would an aftermarket DPF be recommended for price savings e.g. Eurocar parts have a brand called 'React'. - Is there anything to be aware of that may lead to this option not correcting the problem? 2. Have the DPF cleaned- This should be cheaper than a complete replacement, and would involve the DPF being removed and professionally cleaned. Alternatively I believe you could remove the DPF yourself and use a high pressure water hose to clean it yourself (I don't feel this is an option for me as I haven't got any real DIY mechanic experience). I think it would be wise to the checks outline in option 1 to rule out any future DPF blockages. Cost may be roughly £400 (?), but I haven't done much research into this options. Questions: - How likely is this to work? - Are there any reputable companies to do this in London? 3. Remove the DPF - you could remove the filter from inside the DPF casing and have it reinstalled. This would require the cars electronic system to be remapped to make the car ignore all things related to the DPF. I think in theory this is in breach of the MOT rules, and may lead to the car failing the MOT, but from what I've read it is highly unlikely to fail in practise. This options seems to cost between £400-£600. Questions: - Could this lead to the car having any other mechanical problems? - Has anyone with experience of having this done had MOT problems? I really appreciate any help and advice given on how I can resolve this, or if there are any last things I could do myself to save a trip to the garage. It would be nice to get the car back to how it felt before and that feeling of having a reliable vehicle. If you want any more information just ask and I hope this thread provides a good outline of the options for other to make a decision if they face DPF problems. Many thanks, Mo
  23. Hi, In the last couple of days my Focus has been choking seemingly randomly. Its normally after turning down a road or accelerating after a roundabout - I brake for a corner/roundabout in neutral or in gear then afterward I depress the clutch, select a gear appropriate to the speed and i'm going and then as I raise the clutch and depress the accelerator (as you do) the car chokes. This has happened fairly regularly anyway since I bought the car in May, but before it has choked for a second then sorted itself out and I just assumed it was the way I was driving it and it wasn't used to me. Now when it does this it doesn't sort itself out and engine management light comes on. The car just sputters and jumps like a kangaroo even with the accelerator depressed fully, until it either comes to a stalling stop or I restart the engine. This also happened yesterday when I was cruising at about 55mph for 10-15 minutes, i noticed the light come on and then the car started to stutter a bit but before I lost too much speed I restarted the engine and it was fine, the light went away. I've also noticed that I'm having to put a lot more revs into pulling away. Normally I would pull away pretty slowly due to the car but now I'm having to plant the accelerator. If I don't then the car loses power again. I've had a look through various forums and seen things like egr valve, dpf filter, etc but I just wanted to see what your opinions are. We did clean what we could of the egr valve yesterday and had a quick look under the bonnet but can't see anything obvious. I've called RAC this morning to see if they can find any error codes but I'm not sure because the light goes away. Thanks
  24. Katy and Trev

    Help! We have an SMAX which had the engine malfunction sensor show + went into limp mode. It has now been to a garage 3 times in 8 weeks, during which time it has had the filter cleaned; filter replaced; temperature sensor in the exhaust replaced and again, after approx 100 miles when cruising down the motorway ( not driving like a girl but thrashing at 3000 + revs as advised!) it is still setting engine malfunction warning off. It then takes approx a week before it goes into limp mode. Does anyone have any experiences that they could share? Remember reading somewhere about the actual garage may need their Ford diagnostics updating? Off to cornwall in July - don't want to go at less than 3000 revs. Also costing a fortune ...
  25. DPF issue

    Hi everyone, Looking for a bit of advice if possible. I bought a 2005 Ford Focus Ghia TDCi in February. I've found that it's not as smooth as I'd expect, I notice it a lot on the motorway. It feels like the engine is stuttering, I'm not sure how best to describe it but it just isn't smooth. It can feel sometimes like somethings happening directly under the footwell Anyway, I took it to the garage shortly after buying it but they couldn't find anything. Now out of warranty, a red light came on with a 'engine systems fault' message. Took it to a different place and the code was pointing at the DPF. They've refilled the fluid but couldn't get it to regenerate so asked me to take it on the motorway. Done that but the light is still there with the same code... Firstly, do you think the two problems are related or entirely separate? Secondly, has anyone had the same problem with the light staying on? From what they said, this could cost me a lot just trying to diagnose why the red light is still on... Thanks for your help!