• Announcements

    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'egr'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to Ford Owners Club
    • Review your Ford
    • Discount Scheme
    • New Member Introductions
    • Was it you!? FOC Members Spotted!
    • General Ford Related Discussions
    • General Chat
    • Ford Guides
    • Show off your motor!
    • Car Insurance Discussions
  • Ford Models
    • Ford Fiesta Club
    • Ford Focus Club
    • Ford Mondeo / Vignale Club
    • Ford Mustang Club
    • Ford KA / StreetKA Club
    • Ford Kuga Club
    • Ford Edge Club
    • Ford B-Max Club
    • Ford C-Max Club
    • Ford S-Max Club
    • Ford Galaxy Club
    • Ford EcoSport Club
    • Ford Fusion Club
    • Ford Puma Club
    • Ford Escort Club
    • Ford Sierra Club
    • Classic Ford
    • Ford Transit Club
    • Ford Ranger Club
  • Buy & Sell
    • Club Cars For Sale
    • Ford Parts For Sale
    • Classifieds
    • General Items (Non Ford Related)
    • Wanted
    • eBay Finds
    • Buy & Sell Archive
  • Traders
    • Visit Owners Club Insurance Page
    • Opie Oils
    • Mountune
    • Burton Power
    • Puma Speed
    • Revo
    • Advertise Here
  • Ford Modifications and Projects
    • mountune Discussions
    • Photoshopped Ford Photos
    • Ford Project and Build Threads
    • Ford Modification Discussions
  • General Forums
    • Ford Owners Club Meets & Regional Discussion
    • Maintenance / Servicing / MOT Discussions
    • Dealer Problems & Consumer Advice
    • Technical Knowledge
    • Wheels & Tyres
    • Detailing your Ford
    • Audio & Electronics
    • General Site Requests
    • Computing, Gaming and Geeky
    • Dash Cam Videos
    • Ford Motorsport
  • Back Office
  • Ford How-To Guides

Categories

  • Ford Reviews
  • General Ford Guides - Modern Fords
  • Ford Fiesta Guides
  • Ford Buyers Guides
  • Ford Focus Guides
  • Ford Fusion Guides
  • Ford C-Max Guides
  • Ford S-Max Guides
  • Ford Ka Guides
  • Ford Mondeo Guides
  • Ford Kuga Guides
  • Ford Galaxy Guides
  • Ford Puma Guides
  • Ford Escort Guides

Calendars

  • Community Calendar

Categories

  • Articles

Found 55 results

  1. EGR/DPF problems?

    Bought my 2nd Ford diesel (Titanium ECOnetic 1.6 Fiesta, 2014 mk 7.5) 3 months ago from a very reputable dealership. Previous diesel was 1.4TDCi climate, 2008. Have had 10 previous cars since the 80's, all petrol though. Liked the Fiesta diesel as used for frequent long trips between March & November. 27k on the clock, first 2 months had worry-free motoring with great mpg. · · BUT In mid-October, 10 days after the last long trip, the fan was running for 4 minutes after ignition off. Never did this when it was hotter weather & nearer 20C ambient temp. Rang dealership, was told it was DPF regeneration & “not to worry”. Was travelling 100 miles that night, but noticed the journey had much reduced mpg by over 22%.from frequent trips before...mpg stayed much lower until had returned, then picked up again. Rang dealership on return, no appointment available for 2 weeks...so took car back early November. · Left car for 3 hours, was told that the EGR valve had frozen open, "see how it goes". Was apprehensive coz warranty expired in 2 days... but assured the "error codes" had been deleted. Assumed the valve had been cleaned as it had been indicated via error code. · Drove another long trip (over 200 miles, mainly motorway) 3 days later. First leg fine, as normal, second leg on return showing reducing mpg again - perfect conditions & rpm over 2k most of the way. · Next morning did short journey (2.5 miles) & fan started running after ignition off. Did the same with fan overrunning for 3 days (all short journeys). Mpg plummeted. If it were DPF regeneration, I had just done a long trip the day before this started! Only reason I could think was EGR stuck open again - sending more particles through the DPF, even on a perfect regeneration trip. Rang dealership, but next appointment was in 2 days... · Mpg now over 30% down but fan had stopped running after ignition off. This time was told "fan should run after short journeys anyway" & “it uses more fuel in cold weather!!” (what doesn’t? lol) & "we never physically looked at the EGR valve, just cleared the error codes & did 5 updates on the software". Been asked to monitor all dashboard readings . As far as I could, I had already done so! Have fuel receipts & mileage details. ECU didn't even register the last regeneration date after these updates the week before. Mpg down from 67 (normal) to 41 at worst (4 days ago). · No error codes at all now - but obviously SOMETHING IS WRONG – most likely the EGR valve? Should I get an independent report of the actual physical mechanics, & not rely just on laptop readings as the dealership do? · Since I went there a few days ago, there has been no fan overrunning at all & mpg is slowly climbing again, but still 15% down from normal. Dealership did nothing except check laptop ECU readings. Think the EGR valve may be sticky in colder weather, but I'm not a mechanic… Now waiting for next faulty cycle, in the meantime not good for my peace of mind. I have heart trouble myself & I am also primary carer for someone who relies on this transport in an emergency. I’m definitely not a mechanic but I have a brain to try & understand… very disappointed after paying full screen price for a 2014 Ford from a Ford Dealership I trusted. Ford UK take note please! (apparently this version unavailable in US). ·
  2. Bought my 2nd Ford diesel (Titanium ECOnetic 1.6 Fiesta, 2014 mk 7.5) 3 months ago from a very reputable dealership. Previous diesel was 1.4TDCi climate, 2008. Have had 10 previous cars since the 80's, all petrol though. Liked the Fiesta diesel as used for frequent long trips between March & November. 27k on the clock, first 2 months had worry-free motoring with great mpg. · · BUT In mid-October, 10 days after the last long trip, the fan was running for 4 minutes after ignition off. Never did this when it was hotter weather & nearer 20C ambient temp. Rang dealership, was told it was DPF regeneration & “not to worry”. Was travelling 100 miles that night, but noticed the journey had much reduced mpg by over 22%.from frequent trips before...mpg stayed much lower until had returned, then picked up again. Rang dealership on return, no appointment available for 2 weeks...so took car back early November. · Left car for 3 hours, was told that the EGR valve had frozen open, "see how it goes". Was apprehensive coz warranty expired in 2 days... but assured the "error codes" had been deleted. Assumed the valve had been cleaned as it had been indicated via error code. · Drove another long trip (over 200 miles, mainly motorway) 3 days later. First leg fine, as normal, second leg on return showing reducing mpg again - perfect conditions & rpm over 2k most of the way. · Next morning did short journey (2.5 miles) & fan started running after ignition off. Did the same with fan overrunning for 3 days (all short journeys). Mpg plummeted. If it were DPF regeneration, I had just done a long trip the day before this started! Only reason I could think was EGR stuck open again - sending more particles through the DPF, even on a perfect regeneration trip. Rang dealership, but next appointment was in 2 days... · Mpg now over 30% down but fan had stopped running after ignition off. This time was told "fan should run after short journeys anyway" & “it uses more fuel in cold weather!!” (what doesn’t? lol) & "we never physically looked at the EGR valve, just cleared the error codes & did 5 updates on the software". Been asked to monitor all dashboard readings . As far as I could, I had already done so! Have fuel receipts & mileage details. ECU didn't even register the last regeneration date after these updates the week before. · No error codes at all now - but obviously SOMETHING IS WRONG – most likely the EGR valve? Should I get an independent report of the actual physical mechanics, & not rely just on laptop readings as the dealership do? · Since I went there a few days ago, there has been no fan overrunning at all & mpg is slowly climbing again, but still 15% down from normal. Dealership did nothing except check laptop ECU readings. Think the EGR valve may be sticky in colder weather, but I'm not a mechanic… Now waiting for next faulty cycle, in the meantime not good for my peace of mind. I have heart trouble myself & I am also primary carer for someone who relies on this transport in an emergency. I’m definitely not a mechanic but I have a brain to try & understand… very disappointed after paying full screen price for a 2014 Ford from a Ford Dealership I trusted. Ford UK take note please! (apparently this version unavailable in US). ·
  3. Fiesta 1.6tdci boost issues

    Hi all, After some advice on why my Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCi is intermittently losing boost. (It's 2006 model with 90bhp engine. Same engine as loads of Peugeot, Citroen, Volvo etc cars - DV6. I'm 99% sure this is a pre-dpf model.) Symptoms: The engine intermittently decides whether it fancies giving any boost or pretending to be a naturally aspirated engine. Speed, engine speed, gear, temperature... nothing seems to have an overriding impact. Sometimes when I push the throttle it gives me boost, other times it doesn't. What I've done so far: The problem started at the same time as an EGR fault. The EGR fault was "valve sticking". I cleaned the valve out, although it really wasn't sticking or particularly dirty. The motor on the EGR valve is non-responsive so it's the motor itself not the valve that is stuck. In the interest of not letting loads of EGR through needlessly I've blocked the EGR valve with a blanking plate. The turbo issue itself seems linked to the vacuum system that controls the wastegate actuator. I've check all of the pipes in the vacuum system and there are no leaks. I've checked the vacuum pressure made by the vacuum pump and it's making a very stable 700mbar vacuum. The system has a solenoid valve which controls how much of this vacuum goes to the actuator. I've checked the vacuum between the solenoid and the actuator and it seems to be an unsteady vacuum when idling. It intermittently holds about 600mbar vacuum (which holds the wastegate solidly shut) or drops to much lower levels. I believe this is the cause of the boost issues. I've tried 2 solenoid valves with no luck - one which worked perfectly on a different car. I've measured the voltage on both of the pins on the solenoid valve. One provides a stable 14V signal (presumably positive supply from battery) and the other seems to intermittently float around in a similar fashion to the vacuum pressure. I suspect this intermittent signal is the issue... but what would cause the voltage supply to be intermittent? Could this intermittent voltage be caused by the car going into "limp home mode" because the EGR valve is "stuck"? Any thoughts or suggestions are hugely appreciated! Thanks.
  4. Ford Focus MK2

    Hi, I wonder if anyone can help. I have a 2006 focus 2.0 TDCI, the car has been "juddering" occasionally when driving, it feels like its starved of fuel when it judders and happens intermittently I have done all the usual thing like injector cleaner etc clean the EGR valve changed the MAF sensor but the problem is still there. I have had it put on the diagnostics and it came back with no faults. One of the pipes to the DPF had perished last year so I made a temporary fix with a piece of copper pipe inside the rubber pipe until I could get a replacement. It stayed this way for maybe 6 months until it went again and I had the garage replace the split pipe. So I wonder if it could be the DPF causing the intermittent fault, howver if I run the car with the either the MAF sensor or the EGR valve disconnected (Electrical connection) the fault goes away. Any advice would be gladly accepted
  5. advice for cleaning EGR

    Hi all, just bought a 2005 Ford Focus 2.0L Ghia TDCI. i have had it for just over a week and started having some issues, so took it to a garage and had a print out of the fault codes. I was told by the mechanic that the egr has had some sort of water in/ on it (i think from the full engine valet the guy before me had done). he also showed me the egr plug, which, as previously mentioned, had water all around the seal. he advised to remove the valve, give it a good clean with brake cleaner, and properly dry it out. I do a fair bits on my vehicles myself, but just wondered if there were any tips/ tricks to make the removal and refit process less stressful and any tricks on cleaning it as best as possible! Many thanks!
  6. advice for cleaning EGR

    Hi all, just bought a 2005 Ford Focus 2.0L Ghia TDCI. i have had it for just over a week and started having some issues, so took it to a garage and had a print out of the fault codes. I was told by the mechanic that the egr has had some sort of water in/ on it (i think from the full engine valet the guy before me had done). he also showed me the egr plug, which, as previously mentioned, had water all around the seal. he advised to remove the valve, give it a good clean with brake cleaner, and properly dry it out. I do a fair bits on my vehicles myself, but just wondered if there were any tips/ tricks to make the removal and refit process less stressful and any tricks on cleaning it as best as possible! Many thanks!
  7. EGR blanking

    I fitted a EGR blanking plate on my fiesta 2008 1.6 tdci a few years ago and it goes well. Been all over southern ireland never missed a beat. (beer's a bit pricey there but A great place.) I also have a 2014 1.5 tdci fiesta. Hmm. This is running a bit dirty on emissions. Is there any way to cut out the EGR using a Plate or bypass the whole crap idea. Comments welcome.
  8. Came home from work just about to get changed to go out to eddie rockets rob your pockets with the other half but upon further investigation of the letterbox i had noticed that the stainless steel blank + gasket for blanking the egr had come in the post...so me being me (Any excuse to work on the car) I pulled out the tool box and fitted it. I'm no mechanic (just an electrician by trade) so I didn't really know what I was doing, i just about know a few odd things about cars so I kinda winged this instal because I couldn't find a tutorial to do this on my car.( probably is a few but wasn't arsed looking any longer) Now it makes it easier if you take off the scuttle panel but I think you have to take your bleeden wiper arms off and all and I hadn't got time for that as the missus was waiting. First thing I did was locate the egr valve, it's located behind the fuel filter. I took the 3x 8mm bolts off the black bracket that holds the filter in place. Then i removed the filter assembly and shoved it to the back of the engine bay ( fully intact) Second thing I did was take the bracket that the filter sits in to that bolts on to the side of the engine off so I could have the room to slide the blank and gasket in to place. There is another 3x 8mm bolts holding in place And last but not least I undone the two bolts on the valve just enough ( about 5mm) to get the gasket and the blank in to place. These are also 8mm Then put back together. Gonna try add all the pictures I have to this post. You will know what I'm talking about when you see the pictures. This is not a massively detailed tutorial as I ain't got time for that but it's enough so that you'll have half of an idea of what to do. The picture with the red circle is where you slide your blank plate in. Total cost =10.50 time= 30 mins.( not including scrubbing the hands haha)
  9. Anybody able to help me with my latest issue.... Ive recently developed a whirring/whining noise which is audible when accelerating, and is affected slightly regarding increasing speed, it is a little more lethargic. Thought id open her up today to get a proper look, and was greeted by a decent amount of dirt and possibly oil. Ive attached 3 pictures with the areas if not highlighted. Pic 1 shows the dirt on top of the turbo and the heat shield. Pic 2 is a side on view of the turbo and heat shield and oil pipe covered in dirt. Pic 3 shows under the turbo the areas that appear to be suffering a leak of some kind. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
  10. Strange EGR Problems

    Hello, I have a 2011 mk2.5 Ford Focus TDCi 70k mi. I am having problems with the car entering Limp mode as soon as i do 10-15 minutes of motorway driving. Restarting the car instantly gets the car out of Limp mode, but the problem will reappear soon after. I diagnosed using my ELM327 and I've got 2 errors: P0490 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit HighP042F Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Stuck Closed I took my car to the Ford service and they changed the EGR Valve 2 times in order to exclude a bad new EGR valve, but unfortunately the problem is still there. After that, they changed the EGR plug hoping that will solve it, but nothing changed. They did an ECU software update and still nothing. I am uploading a printscreen with Forscan monitoring when the car is in Limp mode and the EGR is stuck closed regardless of the enginge RPM. Notice the LL_EGRTV variable is showing "Not Learnt". That makes me think my car is having trouble learning the new EGR valve parameters. I have to mention I had a minor crash in my front left wheel 4 months ago and considering the ECU is just near it, maybe that is the cause. Did anyone encountered a similar problem? Any idea on how I can solve this? Thank you.
  11. After searching high and low for information on this I'm resorting to starting a new topic. I've got an EGR blanking plate ready to fit in my 2.0 engine but I can't quite figure out whereabouts it goes. I've followed the pipe down to the inlet on the front of the block but after looking at the end of the pip its evident that it cannot fit in this location (oh how easy life would be if it did). I've found a guide on here which related to either the 1.6 or 1.8 TDCi lumps but would this guide also be the same for the 2.0 engine? If it doesn't, can any of the 2.0 guys who have fitted a plate on theirs give some indication of where it does go please.
  12. Afternoon Everyone, New to the forum, and looking for some advice and/or guidance. I own a 2006 Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCI and the warning light (the one shaped like a cog) comes on and the car goes into limp mode and tells me to check the manual. I have Run a diagnostic check with a cunsumer level diagnostic tool and no codes are available. Starts again fine, no smoke or noise that would indicate there is an issue and no warning light. All fluids are at the correct levels and the car is regularly serviced. Lots of similar topics say it could be the EGR valve, but it's not idling badly and I would assume it would put up a code. I was thinking it could be the radiator; the warning light comes mainly when engine is at Temperature and I'm in slow moving or stationary traffic. I've got the car to temp and turned on the A/C but the radiator fan doesn't come on. Could this be the issue and the engine is 'protecting' itself from overheating? Any one experienced this sort of issue, and can help me resolved this. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  13. Strange EGR Problems mk2.5 1.6 TDCI

    I have a 2010 Focus 1.6 TDCI and I'm looking for some help diagnosing some EGR troubles. It started a couple of months ago when the car wouldn't start, with an 'engine malfunction', which the local garage had diagnosed as the EGR stuck open. I had the EGR valve replaced and thought that would be the end of it. After a couple of weeks, when driving to work I noticed a sudden lack in power or boost and it would struggle to maintain speed up a hill. Turning the car off and then on again seems to eradicate the problem, with the noticeable boost in acceleration back. Over the past couple of months this has been happening sporadically so I've bought a modified ELM cable and found the following error codes: P1402 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Metering Orifice Restricted P0490 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit High P042F - EGR Control Stuck Closed I took the car back the garage yesterday and they've replaced the EGR valve again under warranty, however I went for a drive last night only for the exact same error codes to appear. The garage were at a bit of a loss before they replaced the EGR valve the second time and only done it as they weren't sure what else it could be. Does anyone know of any other problems, maybe outside of the EGR valve that could cause it to act this way? Thanks in advance, this is making me tear my hair out!
  14. First post! I got a 2009 Zetec S 1.6 TDCI just after Christmas to ease the cost of commuting and it's been brilliant apart from an intermittent fault that seems to be becoming all the more persistent. The car goes into limp mode, doesn't throw a warning light but struggles to rev as though the boost is being electronically limited (limp mode). Assumed it was the EGR after some research so blanked it off and replaced the fuel filter while I was, but I've had limp mode thrown three times now since I blanked it off yesterday. Had it plugged into Torque and get the code P042E (Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Stuck Open). Assumed now it was blocked off I wouldn't get any trouble, does the EGR now need replacing - just for the sake of blanking it off again? or can you unplug these without any issues? Or could it be something else entirely? Cheers!
  15. I'm new to the forum and apologise if I have posted in the wrong place. Bought an 56 plate 1.6tdci zetec s end of December with no apparent problems. Had 108k miles, last service in the book was at 40k 😮 Decided to have it serviced, water pump, cambelt change and any repair work that needed doing for piece of mind. £700 later fully serviced and a new egr valve along with pump and cambelt kit. car drove faultlessly for a month then randomly went into limp mode whilst sat in traffic. Powertrain light flashing along with a red light next to the speedo. Keeps coming on randomly, sometimes I drive for 30-40 minutes without fault and other times just after pulling away. If I turn the key one click round just before starting the engine and leave it for 10 seconds this will trigger limp mode too... everytime it goes into limp mode if I turn the car off then on again it clears and then drives ok again. Had it back in the garage where I had the previous work done and got it plugged in, the codes that came up are p0489, p042e and p1412. The codes are pointed towards the egr which is new so think the problem may be electrical. The garage have told me they're not capable of working with the electric side of things and suggests I take it to ford which I obviously don't want to do. just tried fitting an egr blanking plate but still going into limp mode. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance
  16. Hi, i am after some advice - I have a failing EGR Valve and I was wondering if it's better to clean it/replace it or just blank it off? Two different garages have told me two different things...
  17. Greetings all. I'm going to be doing my first ever (non stealer) oil change on my 55 plate Focus 1.6 TDCI this weekend and I'm looking to undergo some additional maintenance at the same time to make sure everything is running as smoothly as possible. I'm keen to remove the Inlet Manifold to clean this out, as I would assume it has a lot of built up carbon in there after 12 years of running! (However it only has 70k on the clock!). I've looked around online and I can't seem to find a proficient guide as to how to remove it. Do I need to to take out the fuel injectors first? What pipes/tubing should be disconnected? Once removed can I just bathe it in carb cleaner and then flush it out with warm water? I'd also like to blank my EGR at the same time, I've had the plate for yonks but it would seem the windscreen tray is glued on, so I had difficulty reaching the valve, although this was a year or so ago. My understanding is the EGR is to the left at the back of the engine. If I removed the manifold would I be able to access the valve to slide the plate in? And is it worth cleaning the valve first before blanking if this is the case? I've attached a couple of images (not my engine) which may help someone point me in the right direction here. Any assistance whatsoever would be greatly appreciated! As a final question, after the manifold is removed, is there then access to the rocker cover gasket? As I may have a slight leak so would be interested in replacing this too. I have a Haynes manual on order but I would love for some pros out there to give me some tips, or even provide images of what I need to disconnect remove. I'll upload some photos of the actual engine tomorrow when I have some light. *Edit* I've received the Haynes, after reading through the removal process it seems quite straightforward. So now I'm just wondering the best way to clean it! Thanks in advance for any advice! Regards, Sam
  18. Car Details: 2010 Mondeo Titanium 1.8 TDCI Diesel Hi all, Just wondering if any of you have suffered with a similar problem or possibly have a solution to this. Since buying the car back in June of this year the car has rarely started first time always second time? But now as times gone on it has steadily got worse. What happens is this, I turn the key, then engine fires up then dies immediately. Start it again, same thing happens it dies. On the worst occasion it took 27 attempts to start it but the average attempts required at the moment seems to be around 4 or 5 times. Once the engine is running its absolutely fine. Not missing or struggling in any way and if I go for a short drive then kill the engine and leave it an hour or more it still restarts without any trouble. It just seems to be once the engine has cooled right down then starting becomes a problem. The car has recently undergone a full service which included all filters and I dont use cheap supermarket fuel only Shell or BP and I have been using fuel treatments to clean out the fuel system. The garage that did the service said it could be down to a faulty EGR but when they did the diagnostics there were no fault codes stored at all which possibly rules out the EGR. Im now thinking about removing the EGR and giving it a good clean with carb cleaner or WD40 but cant see the bugger to remove it. I found the guide below but the engine is definitely not the same as the one in mine so not sure where to look. If anyone has any advice I'd be very grateful. If you need any more info just ask
  19. Black smoke

    Hi everyone, my first post so be gentle, my car is a mondeo 2.0l tdci 163ps automatic 12 plate, the engine malfunction info appears whenever I start the car and the little "i" icon stays on and engine management light, I used the forscan for codes and had codes relating to dpf being full ( car has done 120k miles) I've replaced dpf also egr and cooler, the engine management light has gone out but engine malfunction light is still there when ignition is turned on, also lots of black smoke spews out of exhaust whenever I accelerate hard, latest codes relate to diesel intake airflow, turbo, and still to dpf, the.car is running ok at normal speeds but loses power slightly going up hill, any help with these matters would be greatly appreciated, I'm at the end of my tether with trying to find out what's wrong with it. codes coming up on forscan, p003a,turbo boost control A pos exceeded learning limit, p1304 egr cal high,p02fa diesel intake airflow pod sensor min/max stop perform, p244c, p2002,
  20. Wastegate action 1.8tdci mk1

    Trying to diagnose poor Turbo response on my Focus. I have found little information after extensive google searches. Can anyone explain normal wastegate motion from the actuator? When the car is off the plunger is 'in', starting the car creates vacuum and then pushes the actuator extending the plunger 'out', and I assume closing the wategate. The Turbo solenoid (beside the EGR solenoid, green top) then detects the pressure change at the correct rpm (2000rpm?), reducing electical resistance and opens, disapating the pressure, and opening the wastegate (plunger on turbo actuator returns 'in'), enabling the Turbo action. Is this correct? I really need to know if the actuator needs to retract or extend to fire the Turbo. Thanks in advance.
  21. Hi! New to the forum, first post in fact. I'm hoping someone on here can help me with my EGR issue. The car in question is an 06 Focus Estate 1.6 TDCI. I had the Check Engine light come on so I scanned the codes and it came back with the EGR stuck code P042F and an intermittent Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent code P0104. I have since had the EGR valve off the car and cleaned it with a stiff brush inside the inlets and between the valve body and stepper motor. It didn't look particularly dirty, especially compared with some of the pictures I've seen, and seemed to operate OK when I moved it around by hand. Anyway, it was cleaned and refitted and the codes cleared but they have returned. I also seem to be experiencing limited throttle response, it drives OK but sluggishly and doesn't responded very well under acceleration. Now that the codes have come back they brought new ones too... P02C0 which I think is Injector Restriction? And C3304 which I can't identify satisfactorily, the internet is trying to tell me that it's the ECU telling me to rotate my tyres. So. Given that the EGR Valve definitely doesn't need cleaning. What are the other possibilities for the fault? Could the stepper motor that operates it be the issue? Or is there something else that fails? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks! Evan
  22. Hi guys, me again :) I have a few questions about the EGR valve for my Focus (MK2.5 - 1.6 Econetic - Jan 2009). First of all, where is it located? I never really searched it and I will try doing so when I'm back from work, however it seems that its position differs from the one of a MK2 model? Blanking it: When I blank the EGR with a plate, will the ECU complain about it? Will I get any dashboard errors or will I get something reported in the diagnostic? This is really important to understand for me as I need to make sure no errors are reported. Following my logic (as I'm ignorant on this subject) I would say "no errors" as I think the ECU will still notice the EGR working? If I'm right, isn't this going to cause issues with the exhaust gasses (I guess more compression?)? At the same time I'm thinking that if the sensor is sofisticated enought it'll understand there's no gas floating through and then light up and nice error? Is it against the law to blank it? I know that in Italy it is, I read that in the UK is a bit of a grey area and I'm not sure whether The Netherlands (where I live) also allows it or not. I'm sure there won't be a specific article in the law, but based on the EU laws I think it'll make it illegal. This is also why the above point is important. I would like to know if a mechanic that is just checking the car, will notice a blanked EGR or not during the yearly controls. Finally, if I were to perform this, what would your recommendations be in terms of kit to use or how to install it? Thanks a lot
  23. Hey guys, im a proud owner of a 59 plate titanium 1.6 tdci fiesta and as fun as it is having a slightly faster car than what im used to for my age. the time is coming nearer for the car to push for 150BHP. i was wondering what kind of mods including remaps and induction kits i can get for the best bang for my buck. i have been looking at the j1 kit but the price is a bit daunting. if any one knows any good exhausts (that exclude black smoke) that are a good price as well as and good induction kits for a good price as well that would be a great help! Any opinions as well as suggestions will help! and any experiences any one has had with these cars and getting power please let me know! thank you!
  24. Hi, I am new to this group, and I have a question.. I have a 52 plate transit connect tddi and it looks like the egr wires have snapped (picture attached). The van drives fine, and it is an ex council can so it most defiantly hasn't had an egr delete, so the wires must of snapped. It has always been like this in my ownership so I'm unsure if it makes a difference to power/economy? Will it make more power if I I re-connect it back up? Thank you everybody, much appreciated. - Billy.
  25. I got P1402 the other day on my car and it refers to a restricted metering orifice. Mind you this came on with P0340 which was for camshaft sensor which i replaced so all the issues linked to that are gone. I am not experiencing any drivability issues so i'm not sure what to do now, do i need a new egr valve? Any advice would be appreciated