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Found 50 results

  1. EGR blanking

    I fitted a EGR blanking plate on my fiesta 2008 1.6 tdci a few years ago and it goes well. Been all over southern ireland never missed a beat. (beer's a bit pricey there but A great place.) I also have a 2014 1.5 tdci fiesta. Hmm. This is running a bit dirty on emissions. Is there any way to cut out the EGR using a Plate or bypass the whole crap idea. Comments welcome.
  2. Came home from work just about to get changed to go out to eddie rockets rob your pockets with the other half but upon further investigation of the letterbox i had noticed that the stainless steel blank + gasket for blanking the egr had come in the me being me (Any excuse to work on the car) I pulled out the tool box and fitted it. I'm no mechanic (just an electrician by trade) so I didn't really know what I was doing, i just about know a few odd things about cars so I kinda winged this instal because I couldn't find a tutorial to do this on my car.( probably is a few but wasn't arsed looking any longer) Now it makes it easier if you take off the scuttle panel but I think you have to take your bleeden wiper arms off and all and I hadn't got time for that as the missus was waiting. First thing I did was locate the egr valve, it's located behind the fuel filter. I took the 3x 8mm bolts off the black bracket that holds the filter in place. Then i removed the filter assembly and shoved it to the back of the engine bay ( fully intact) Second thing I did was take the bracket that the filter sits in to that bolts on to the side of the engine off so I could have the room to slide the blank and gasket in to place. There is another 3x 8mm bolts holding in place And last but not least I undone the two bolts on the valve just enough ( about 5mm) to get the gasket and the blank in to place. These are also 8mm Then put back together. Gonna try add all the pictures I have to this post. You will know what I'm talking about when you see the pictures. This is not a massively detailed tutorial as I ain't got time for that but it's enough so that you'll have half of an idea of what to do. The picture with the red circle is where you slide your blank plate in. Total cost =10.50 time= 30 mins.( not including scrubbing the hands haha)
  3. Anybody able to help me with my latest issue.... Ive recently developed a whirring/whining noise which is audible when accelerating, and is affected slightly regarding increasing speed, it is a little more lethargic. Thought id open her up today to get a proper look, and was greeted by a decent amount of dirt and possibly oil. Ive attached 3 pictures with the areas if not highlighted. Pic 1 shows the dirt on top of the turbo and the heat shield. Pic 2 is a side on view of the turbo and heat shield and oil pipe covered in dirt. Pic 3 shows under the turbo the areas that appear to be suffering a leak of some kind. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
  4. Strange EGR Problems

    Hello, I have a 2011 mk2.5 Ford Focus TDCi 70k mi. I am having problems with the car entering Limp mode as soon as i do 10-15 minutes of motorway driving. Restarting the car instantly gets the car out of Limp mode, but the problem will reappear soon after. I diagnosed using my ELM327 and I've got 2 errors: P0490 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit HighP042F Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Stuck Closed I took my car to the Ford service and they changed the EGR Valve 2 times in order to exclude a bad new EGR valve, but unfortunately the problem is still there. After that, they changed the EGR plug hoping that will solve it, but nothing changed. They did an ECU software update and still nothing. I am uploading a printscreen with Forscan monitoring when the car is in Limp mode and the EGR is stuck closed regardless of the enginge RPM. Notice the LL_EGRTV variable is showing "Not Learnt". That makes me think my car is having trouble learning the new EGR valve parameters. I have to mention I had a minor crash in my front left wheel 4 months ago and considering the ECU is just near it, maybe that is the cause. Did anyone encountered a similar problem? Any idea on how I can solve this? Thank you.
  5. After searching high and low for information on this I'm resorting to starting a new topic. I've got an EGR blanking plate ready to fit in my 2.0 engine but I can't quite figure out whereabouts it goes. I've followed the pipe down to the inlet on the front of the block but after looking at the end of the pip its evident that it cannot fit in this location (oh how easy life would be if it did). I've found a guide on here which related to either the 1.6 or 1.8 TDCi lumps but would this guide also be the same for the 2.0 engine? If it doesn't, can any of the 2.0 guys who have fitted a plate on theirs give some indication of where it does go please.
  6. Afternoon Everyone, New to the forum, and looking for some advice and/or guidance. I own a 2006 Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCI and the warning light (the one shaped like a cog) comes on and the car goes into limp mode and tells me to check the manual. I have Run a diagnostic check with a cunsumer level diagnostic tool and no codes are available. Starts again fine, no smoke or noise that would indicate there is an issue and no warning light. All fluids are at the correct levels and the car is regularly serviced. Lots of similar topics say it could be the EGR valve, but it's not idling badly and I would assume it would put up a code. I was thinking it could be the radiator; the warning light comes mainly when engine is at Temperature and I'm in slow moving or stationary traffic. I've got the car to temp and turned on the A/C but the radiator fan doesn't come on. Could this be the issue and the engine is 'protecting' itself from overheating? Any one experienced this sort of issue, and can help me resolved this. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  7. Strange EGR Problems mk2.5 1.6 TDCI

    I have a 2010 Focus 1.6 TDCI and I'm looking for some help diagnosing some EGR troubles. It started a couple of months ago when the car wouldn't start, with an 'engine malfunction', which the local garage had diagnosed as the EGR stuck open. I had the EGR valve replaced and thought that would be the end of it. After a couple of weeks, when driving to work I noticed a sudden lack in power or boost and it would struggle to maintain speed up a hill. Turning the car off and then on again seems to eradicate the problem, with the noticeable boost in acceleration back. Over the past couple of months this has been happening sporadically so I've bought a modified ELM cable and found the following error codes: P1402 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Metering Orifice Restricted P0490 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit High P042F - EGR Control Stuck Closed I took the car back the garage yesterday and they've replaced the EGR valve again under warranty, however I went for a drive last night only for the exact same error codes to appear. The garage were at a bit of a loss before they replaced the EGR valve the second time and only done it as they weren't sure what else it could be. Does anyone know of any other problems, maybe outside of the EGR valve that could cause it to act this way? Thanks in advance, this is making me tear my hair out!
  8. Fiesta 1.6tdci boost issues

    Hi all, After some advice on why my Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCi is intermittently losing boost. (It's 2006 model with 90bhp engine. Same engine as loads of Peugeot, Citroen, Volvo etc cars - DV6. I'm 99% sure this is a pre-dpf model.) Symptoms: The engine intermittently decides whether it fancies giving any boost or pretending to be a naturally aspirated engine. Speed, engine speed, gear, temperature... nothing seems to have an overriding impact. Sometimes when I push the throttle it gives me boost, other times it doesn't. What I've done so far: The problem started at the same time as an EGR fault. The EGR fault was "valve sticking". I cleaned the valve out, although it really wasn't sticking or particularly dirty. The motor on the EGR valve is non-responsive so it's the motor itself not the valve that is stuck. In the interest of not letting loads of EGR through needlessly I've blocked the EGR valve with a blanking plate. The turbo issue itself seems linked to the vacuum system that controls the wastegate actuator. I've check all of the pipes in the vacuum system and there are no leaks. I've checked the vacuum pressure made by the vacuum pump and it's making a very stable 700mbar vacuum. The system has a solenoid valve which controls how much of this vacuum goes to the actuator. I've checked the vacuum between the solenoid and the actuator and it seems to be an unsteady vacuum when idling. It intermittently holds about 600mbar vacuum (which holds the wastegate solidly shut) or drops to much lower levels. I believe this is the cause of the boost issues. I've tried 2 solenoid valves with no luck - one which worked perfectly on a different car. I've measured the voltage on both of the pins on the solenoid valve. One provides a stable 14V signal (presumably positive supply from battery) and the other seems to intermittently float around in a similar fashion to the vacuum pressure. I suspect this intermittent signal is the issue... but what would cause the voltage supply to be intermittent? Could this intermittent voltage be caused by the car going into "limp home mode" because the EGR valve is "stuck"? Any thoughts or suggestions are hugely appreciated! Thanks.
  9. First post! I got a 2009 Zetec S 1.6 TDCI just after Christmas to ease the cost of commuting and it's been brilliant apart from an intermittent fault that seems to be becoming all the more persistent. The car goes into limp mode, doesn't throw a warning light but struggles to rev as though the boost is being electronically limited (limp mode). Assumed it was the EGR after some research so blanked it off and replaced the fuel filter while I was, but I've had limp mode thrown three times now since I blanked it off yesterday. Had it plugged into Torque and get the code P042E (Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Stuck Open). Assumed now it was blocked off I wouldn't get any trouble, does the EGR now need replacing - just for the sake of blanking it off again? or can you unplug these without any issues? Or could it be something else entirely? Cheers!
  10. I'm new to the forum and apologise if I have posted in the wrong place. Bought an 56 plate 1.6tdci zetec s end of December with no apparent problems. Had 108k miles, last service in the book was at 40k 😮 Decided to have it serviced, water pump, cambelt change and any repair work that needed doing for piece of mind. £700 later fully serviced and a new egr valve along with pump and cambelt kit. car drove faultlessly for a month then randomly went into limp mode whilst sat in traffic. Powertrain light flashing along with a red light next to the speedo. Keeps coming on randomly, sometimes I drive for 30-40 minutes without fault and other times just after pulling away. If I turn the key one click round just before starting the engine and leave it for 10 seconds this will trigger limp mode too... everytime it goes into limp mode if I turn the car off then on again it clears and then drives ok again. Had it back in the garage where I had the previous work done and got it plugged in, the codes that came up are p0489, p042e and p1412. The codes are pointed towards the egr which is new so think the problem may be electrical. The garage have told me they're not capable of working with the electric side of things and suggests I take it to ford which I obviously don't want to do. just tried fitting an egr blanking plate but still going into limp mode. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance
  11. Hi, i am after some advice - I have a failing EGR Valve and I was wondering if it's better to clean it/replace it or just blank it off? Two different garages have told me two different things...
  12. Greetings all. I'm going to be doing my first ever (non stealer) oil change on my 55 plate Focus 1.6 TDCI this weekend and I'm looking to undergo some additional maintenance at the same time to make sure everything is running as smoothly as possible. I'm keen to remove the Inlet Manifold to clean this out, as I would assume it has a lot of built up carbon in there after 12 years of running! (However it only has 70k on the clock!). I've looked around online and I can't seem to find a proficient guide as to how to remove it. Do I need to to take out the fuel injectors first? What pipes/tubing should be disconnected? Once removed can I just bathe it in carb cleaner and then flush it out with warm water? I'd also like to blank my EGR at the same time, I've had the plate for yonks but it would seem the windscreen tray is glued on, so I had difficulty reaching the valve, although this was a year or so ago. My understanding is the EGR is to the left at the back of the engine. If I removed the manifold would I be able to access the valve to slide the plate in? And is it worth cleaning the valve first before blanking if this is the case? I've attached a couple of images (not my engine) which may help someone point me in the right direction here. Any assistance whatsoever would be greatly appreciated! As a final question, after the manifold is removed, is there then access to the rocker cover gasket? As I may have a slight leak so would be interested in replacing this too. I have a Haynes manual on order but I would love for some pros out there to give me some tips, or even provide images of what I need to disconnect remove. I'll upload some photos of the actual engine tomorrow when I have some light. *Edit* I've received the Haynes, after reading through the removal process it seems quite straightforward. So now I'm just wondering the best way to clean it! Thanks in advance for any advice! Regards, Sam
  13. Car Details: 2010 Mondeo Titanium 1.8 TDCI Diesel Hi all, Just wondering if any of you have suffered with a similar problem or possibly have a solution to this. Since buying the car back in June of this year the car has rarely started first time always second time? But now as times gone on it has steadily got worse. What happens is this, I turn the key, then engine fires up then dies immediately. Start it again, same thing happens it dies. On the worst occasion it took 27 attempts to start it but the average attempts required at the moment seems to be around 4 or 5 times. Once the engine is running its absolutely fine. Not missing or struggling in any way and if I go for a short drive then kill the engine and leave it an hour or more it still restarts without any trouble. It just seems to be once the engine has cooled right down then starting becomes a problem. The car has recently undergone a full service which included all filters and I dont use cheap supermarket fuel only Shell or BP and I have been using fuel treatments to clean out the fuel system. The garage that did the service said it could be down to a faulty EGR but when they did the diagnostics there were no fault codes stored at all which possibly rules out the EGR. Im now thinking about removing the EGR and giving it a good clean with carb cleaner or WD40 but cant see the bugger to remove it. I found the guide below but the engine is definitely not the same as the one in mine so not sure where to look. If anyone has any advice I'd be very grateful. If you need any more info just ask
  14. Black smoke

    Hi everyone, my first post so be gentle, my car is a mondeo 2.0l tdci 163ps automatic 12 plate, the engine malfunction info appears whenever I start the car and the little "i" icon stays on and engine management light, I used the forscan for codes and had codes relating to dpf being full ( car has done 120k miles) I've replaced dpf also egr and cooler, the engine management light has gone out but engine malfunction light is still there when ignition is turned on, also lots of black smoke spews out of exhaust whenever I accelerate hard, latest codes relate to diesel intake airflow, turbo, and still to dpf, is running ok at normal speeds but loses power slightly going up hill, any help with these matters would be greatly appreciated, I'm at the end of my tether with trying to find out what's wrong with it. codes coming up on forscan, p003a,turbo boost control A pos exceeded learning limit, p1304 egr cal high,p02fa diesel intake airflow pod sensor min/max stop perform, p244c, p2002,
  15. Wastegate action 1.8tdci mk1

    Trying to diagnose poor Turbo response on my Focus. I have found little information after extensive google searches. Can anyone explain normal wastegate motion from the actuator? When the car is off the plunger is 'in', starting the car creates vacuum and then pushes the actuator extending the plunger 'out', and I assume closing the wategate. The Turbo solenoid (beside the EGR solenoid, green top) then detects the pressure change at the correct rpm (2000rpm?), reducing electical resistance and opens, disapating the pressure, and opening the wastegate (plunger on turbo actuator returns 'in'), enabling the Turbo action. Is this correct? I really need to know if the actuator needs to retract or extend to fire the Turbo. Thanks in advance.
  16. Hi! New to the forum, first post in fact. I'm hoping someone on here can help me with my EGR issue. The car in question is an 06 Focus Estate 1.6 TDCI. I had the Check Engine light come on so I scanned the codes and it came back with the EGR stuck code P042F and an intermittent Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent code P0104. I have since had the EGR valve off the car and cleaned it with a stiff brush inside the inlets and between the valve body and stepper motor. It didn't look particularly dirty, especially compared with some of the pictures I've seen, and seemed to operate OK when I moved it around by hand. Anyway, it was cleaned and refitted and the codes cleared but they have returned. I also seem to be experiencing limited throttle response, it drives OK but sluggishly and doesn't responded very well under acceleration. Now that the codes have come back they brought new ones too... P02C0 which I think is Injector Restriction? And C3304 which I can't identify satisfactorily, the internet is trying to tell me that it's the ECU telling me to rotate my tyres. So. Given that the EGR Valve definitely doesn't need cleaning. What are the other possibilities for the fault? Could the stepper motor that operates it be the issue? Or is there something else that fails? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks! Evan
  17. Hi guys, me again :) I have a few questions about the EGR valve for my Focus (MK2.5 - 1.6 Econetic - Jan 2009). First of all, where is it located? I never really searched it and I will try doing so when I'm back from work, however it seems that its position differs from the one of a MK2 model? Blanking it: When I blank the EGR with a plate, will the ECU complain about it? Will I get any dashboard errors or will I get something reported in the diagnostic? This is really important to understand for me as I need to make sure no errors are reported. Following my logic (as I'm ignorant on this subject) I would say "no errors" as I think the ECU will still notice the EGR working? If I'm right, isn't this going to cause issues with the exhaust gasses (I guess more compression?)? At the same time I'm thinking that if the sensor is sofisticated enought it'll understand there's no gas floating through and then light up and nice error? Is it against the law to blank it? I know that in Italy it is, I read that in the UK is a bit of a grey area and I'm not sure whether The Netherlands (where I live) also allows it or not. I'm sure there won't be a specific article in the law, but based on the EU laws I think it'll make it illegal. This is also why the above point is important. I would like to know if a mechanic that is just checking the car, will notice a blanked EGR or not during the yearly controls. Finally, if I were to perform this, what would your recommendations be in terms of kit to use or how to install it? Thanks a lot
  18. Hey guys, im a proud owner of a 59 plate titanium 1.6 tdci fiesta and as fun as it is having a slightly faster car than what im used to for my age. the time is coming nearer for the car to push for 150BHP. i was wondering what kind of mods including remaps and induction kits i can get for the best bang for my buck. i have been looking at the j1 kit but the price is a bit daunting. if any one knows any good exhausts (that exclude black smoke) that are a good price as well as and good induction kits for a good price as well that would be a great help! Any opinions as well as suggestions will help! and any experiences any one has had with these cars and getting power please let me know! thank you!
  19. Hi, I am new to this group, and I have a question.. I have a 52 plate transit connect tddi and it looks like the egr wires have snapped (picture attached). The van drives fine, and it is an ex council can so it most defiantly hasn't had an egr delete, so the wires must of snapped. It has always been like this in my ownership so I'm unsure if it makes a difference to power/economy? Will it make more power if I I re-connect it back up? Thank you everybody, much appreciated. - Billy.
  20. I got P1402 the other day on my car and it refers to a restricted metering orifice. Mind you this came on with P0340 which was for camshaft sensor which i replaced so all the issues linked to that are gone. I am not experiencing any drivability issues so i'm not sure what to do now, do i need a new egr valve? Any advice would be appreciated
  21. Hi, In the last couple of days my Focus has been choking seemingly randomly. Its normally after turning down a road or accelerating after a roundabout - I brake for a corner/roundabout in neutral or in gear then afterward I depress the clutch, select a gear appropriate to the speed and i'm going and then as I raise the clutch and depress the accelerator (as you do) the car chokes. This has happened fairly regularly anyway since I bought the car in May, but before it has choked for a second then sorted itself out and I just assumed it was the way I was driving it and it wasn't used to me. Now when it does this it doesn't sort itself out and engine management light comes on. The car just sputters and jumps like a kangaroo even with the accelerator depressed fully, until it either comes to a stalling stop or I restart the engine. This also happened yesterday when I was cruising at about 55mph for 10-15 minutes, i noticed the light come on and then the car started to stutter a bit but before I lost too much speed I restarted the engine and it was fine, the light went away. I've also noticed that I'm having to put a lot more revs into pulling away. Normally I would pull away pretty slowly due to the car but now I'm having to plant the accelerator. If I don't then the car loses power again. I've had a look through various forums and seen things like egr valve, dpf filter, etc but I just wanted to see what your opinions are. We did clean what we could of the egr valve yesterday and had a quick look under the bonnet but can't see anything obvious. I've called RAC this morning to see if they can find any error codes but I'm not sure because the light goes away. Thanks
  22. Hello to you focus enthusiasts, After owning a focus for over two years I can't classify myself as enthusiast anymore, more like frustrated of owning a money burner! Anyway basically got an EGR intermittent fault on the car and is making the car run rough at times! Plugged it in with my scanner and showed Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor Circuit Low and took it to the main dealer to check and verify the fault and they basically said complete EGR needs replacing and will cost me around £1,000! I'd rather get rid of my car for that and get a reliable one with a decent badge, but am going through my last year of uni so can't think straight at the minute and concentrate on that so am wondering if I or a back door garage can do something to solve it for less and make the car last me for another year until I free myself! Mind you I have already replaced the EGR valve two years ago but that was covered by the warranty from the car dealer and talking to the Ford mechanic he said it is a re-occuirng fault on the TDCI engine; GREAT!!! So my questions are: 1) Can I keep driving around with intermittent EGR fault on the car? 2) MOT is due in December, will an EGR fault will cause failure in the MOT on emmissions etc...? 3) Will cleaning the EGR valve solve the problem? If, yes is there a guide on here how to do it? 4) I leanrt that some poeple blank the EGR valve to bypass the problem! Do you recommend I do that? Will that affect car performance and the MOT? Is it expensive to do? Appreicate your help on this one people... Thanks in advance.
  23. Egr blank

    Stupid question, but just wondering where the egr blanking plate fits in a 1.6 tdci 64 plate focus? Presume it's he picture shown ? New member so any help would be great, cheers
  24. Hi folks, I'm looking at blanking off the EGR valve on my Mark 2 Focus. Perhaps a silly question, but at which end of the EGR system is it best to do the blanking? At the valve end itself, which is at the top of the engine and easy to get to, or at the end where it comes off the exhaust manifold? If you blank the manifold end you bypass the whole cooler system, but does that matter? Thanks in advance.
  25. Hi I am having a recurring issue with my Focus which I am having trouble diagnosing. I have a high mileage (168,000 miles) 2007 Mk 2 Focus 1.6tdci (110ps version) and I am experiencing a semi-regular issue under acceleration at 1900rpm where the engine will repeatedly start hesitating then return to normal. When the issue occurs it will happen consistently at 1900rpm in all gears and is accompanied by a squeaking/squealing noise. I assume as the RPM is always consistent it is relating to the turbo rather than the running gear or the gearbox, but I am struggling to find a consensus of opinion on other message board posts describing similar problems. I had the EGR valve replaced less than 5k miles ago due to sudden lack of power across the whole rev band, and an engine warning message pointing towards a stuck EGR valve. Having this change solved that issue. This issue did occur a couple of times before the EGR valve change, so when I had that replaced I hoped that would have been the cause, but today the issue has re-appeared. Any thoughts? Obviously I am not looking to spend a lot of money keeping it on the road at this point (looking at auto!trader, 170k seems very high mileage for this engine!), but a diagnosis to give me a better idea what I am looking at would be very handy! Thanks, Chris.