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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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Found 1,010 results

  1. Hi, i'm doing the timing belt on my Focus (1.6 100hp) - Haynes and ETIS mentions nothing about it, but do you folk apply loctite ( i have the blue one) on crankshaft, waterpump, waterpump pulley and tensioner bolts? If so, how much? The torque for crankshaft bolt is 40Nm (29,5 lb ft) + 90° ... seems a little low for a keyless design? I really wouldn't want it to come loose....:) Thanks a bunch!
  2. SHOW US YOUR MK2

    Show us all your mk2! modified or standard! I'll start!
  3. Well it has taken what seems to be an age but the RS has finally arrived. And god it's awesome. Here's the back story of order to delivery which I decided to keep pretty much to myself as I knew the wait would be hard enough without sharing the pain with you guys. February 2016 - Never thinking I could ever afford an RS and that the Fiesta ST MP215 would be the pinnacle of my Ford ownership I saw an advert on a Ford dealer website offering repayments of almost exactly what I was paying for the ST. But wait what about the insurance I here you ask? OK that's what I was asking anyway. So I did a quote and found that the premium was actually a few pounds less than for the ST. Oh god that makes it feasible. So off I trotted to my local Stoneacre dealer to see my friendly salesman Steve. We sat down and placed the order. RS mk3 in Nitrous blue, standard seats with blue bolsters, lux pack, 19" forged alloy wheels, sync2 nav system and door edge protectors. Fantastic everything I want and expected build date to be October 2016. £1000 deposit paid. Only problem is that RS orders can only be placed at Ford Stores and my local isn't one. So the order is placed via the Doncaster branch, he can't see anything on his system so will have to ring Doncaster for everything. Two days later Steve rang me. "Good news and bad news" he says. "Good news is we have a cancellation with a build date of May 2016, bad news no door edge protectors" let me think...I'll have it!!!! March 2016 - Then the horror stories start to come out of the forums and Ford themselves. Oil leaks on the production line no cars being released and many a potential owner getting ***** off. Then I get the dreaded call. "Your build date is being put back to June but you can have the door edge protectors" Well that's OK one month extra but everything I wanted, I can live with that. April 2016 - bad news continues. Build date back to July. June 2016 - Build date back to October. News on the RS forum that the winter pack, (heated seats and steering wheel) not previously available in UK but was in Spain, I don't understand either, is now available in UK. Get me that I tell Steve but only if it doesn't delay the order any further. He gets it on the build schedule, happy days. I also find out that one of the reasons for the delay is that Ford have run out of Nitrous Blue paint. Seriously? Sack the guy responsible for that. August 2016 - Ford Fair is quite painful as all I can see are RS's at ever turn. October 2016 - Sent an email to the RS team at Ford UK. Can you confirm my build date please? Reply states it might be December but two week shut down over Christmas means it might be the New Year. Enough is enough now. I'm very unhappy and seriously considering cancelling my order. So I march off to the dealers. Steve checks and is told that they have a build date of 10th November. Another email to Ford UK later that day to be told, "actually yes build date is 10 November and here's your VIN number. Whooop. Straight onto ETIS and there it is and they started building on the 8th two days early. November 2016 - Over the next few weeks I watch the car being built including an upgrade to Sync 3. Then I remember we've never actually sat down and worked out the finance in detail. Better get that done then. Off to see Steve, he's nowhere to be seen. Off sick I'm told he's had an operation and not due back till the New Year. *****. Anyway Paul says don't worry we'll sort it. What did Steve arrange for you. So I told him. "Seriously? That's a cracking deal." says Paul. I'll see what I can do. December 2016 - 5th - Paul rings. Car has landed at the dealers. If we can sort the finance you can pick it up on the 10th. God I'm nearly wetting myself now. Problem is they can't find any of Steve's paperwork, great. We discuss the finance and of course the screw tightens, your ST is now 9 months older and has 10k more miles on it so its only worth......f*** all. Jeez what now? A bit of hard talking and I get another £2k out of him. That's better. But I still need to find a bit more cash and the payments are £50 more per month than the ST. Just before Xmas, not good timing. So I juggle some finances around cancel the wife's Xmas presents, joking, and no problem I'll come in tomorrow to sign the papers. 6th- Where's Paul? His day off! Ahmed will sort it, he's the sales manager. We sit down and he gets the finance details up on screen. Your payments ill be £330 a month! No they f***ing won't be, says I. He's only quoted me on the current increased list prices not the cost when I ordered back in February. So panic over. Finance signed, Collection agreed for 11am 10th December. Saturday 10th December- The BIG day - Drove the ST, on fumes, to Doncaster, it needs 4 new tyres, current ones are like slicks, and the 3rd year service which I never got done and saved myself over £500 in total, so if you buy it make sure these have been sorted. I'll miss that car it has brought me 3 years of driving pleasure and many great memories. I arrive at the dealers to see the car in the showroom covered with a Ford car cover but the profile is unmistakable. I sign what seems to be every page of the bible hand over the ST keys and V5. OK sir if you'd like to take the cover off your new car? ***** hell not half I'd like to; Right that's all the buttons explained, phone paired let's get this show on the road. Hope I like it? Like it, it's chuffing amazing. What a car, like brown stuff off a shovel, more comfortable than the ST and sport mode transforms it into something else. I'm never going to tire of this. Here's a couple of photo's on the way home. And it's first wash That's all for now guys. I'll try update this thread over the coming weeks and months but it's hard when you never get out of the driving seat.
  4. Hey all, I'm looking for details on how difficult it is to retrofit a Satnav to the 2015 Ford Focus. I currently have a Sync 2 8" head unit and find conflicting information online and also from my official ford retailer! Some say it requires an entirely new loom/wiring system where as others state that it may require activation only by a retailer and others specify a new head unit - does anyone have experience with this at all? Thanks in advance
  5. Focus Bulb Lists

    Hi just thought i'd post a few bulb lists for the focus ive done the same in the fiesta section hopefully to help a few people out when they are looking for which bulbs right for their car. The lists i've posted are correct to the best of my knowledge although if you notice any discrepances please inform me and i will alter the lists accordingly :) Ford Focus (1998-2001) Dipped Beam - 472 (H4) Main Beam - 472 (H4) Front Fog - 448 (H1) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 239 Festoon Bulb Interior Light - 265 Festoon Bulb Ford Focus (2001-2004) Dipped Beam - 499 (H7) Main Beam - 448 (H1) Front Fog - 448 (H1) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 239 Festoon Bulb Ford Focus (2004-2007) Dipped Beam - 499 (H7) Main Beam - 448 (H1) Front Fog - 708 (H8) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 239 Festoon Bulb Ford Focus(2008>) Dipped Beam - 499 (H7) Main Beam - 448 (H1) Front Fog - 708 (H8) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Brake Light - 780 Red Rear Back Light - 780 Red Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 501 Capless Interior Light - 501 Capless501
  6. Hi guys (and gals), Got a problem with my 2008 Ford Focus mk2.5, the outside/ambient temperature sensor isn't giving a reading and the red snowflake is permanently on the dash. I would usually just swap the sensor out for a new one (which I still may). But I know that usually when the sensor fails, it gives a stupid reading instead of just nothing. Is there a fuse for the ABT that I can check? Or anything else obvious before I swap the sensor? Thanks in advance! P.S how can I see photos in other posts? It just comes up 'photobucket p500' in the photo window?
  7. Hi all, In a similar style to the MK1 Focus thread I started yesterday I am also looking for common problems on MK2 Focus models. I will also be looking to eventually put together a buyers guide for these models so any feedback you could give would be much appreciated! :) James
  8. Hello, I have a Ford Focus Mk1 2003 Face lift, I have an issue with my OSR (Driver's side rear) brake light, it doesn't seem to work. The NSR (Passanger side rear) and third brake light work fine and the rear side lights work, even the drivers side as the bulb is a dual filment. I have checked the bulb and its fine, I have checked the bulb fitment for resistance and its fine(also cleaned it), fuses are okay and the the wiring from the light to the body of the car seems okay just looking and moving them around. Any ideas would be most appreciated with it being dark most of the time at this time of the year in the UK. Cheers Andy
  9. Hi guys, it's my first post on the forums and I wish it was a better one. I bought a 2008 MK2.5 1.8tcdi focus around 3 weeks ago and it broke down today I got a check engine light about 30 miles ago and today pulling out of the driveway I got the warning chime and a readout saying power steering failure. Then the car shut down and there has being no power since, not even central locking or interior/dash lights. When I had a look under the bonnet here was smoke, possibly from the alternator. Has anyone experienced something similar?
  10. O.K, so the Aluminium part of your foot pedal just fell off? Mine did a month and a half ago. I temporarily glued it back in place whilst ordering a genuine new one. Thinking this would be an easy swap I set about it. A few hours (and a lot of frustration later I managed the task). I couldn't find anything helpful online so I thought I'd write a quick guide of how I managed this. The pedal in question was the Clutch pedal, but I presume it'll be the same fro the Brake pedal too. Insure you have a lamp, a small mirror and a flat stubby screwdriver to assist you doing this correctly. Place the new pedal cover into a bowl of boiling water for around 10 minutes. Dry off the pedal cover and head to the car to begin fitting. (#1) Install the bottom of the pedal cover first (as it's the smaller area). (#2) Insert the upper left corner next (this is the awkward corner as you are inhibited by the pedal support arm) (#3) Then run your screwdriver up the side to ensure the rubber between #1 & #2 is correctly fitted. (#4) Fit the top right corner next. (#5) Run your screwdriver across the top to ensure the rubber between #2 & #4 is correctly fitted. (#6) Finally pull down on the right side tab to assist you using your screwdriver to ensure this rubber is correctly in place. This sounds fairly simple to do, but in practice it can be a bit of a dog to successfully get all of the rubbers on in place. You will need to apply pressure to the pedal cover against the pedal itself to get parts to stay on whilst moving on to the next step. Obviously if the pedal cover slips off then you should start again and drop it back into boiling water. I've attached a few images for assistance. I hope this guide helps at least one person out, please leave a comment below if so. Thanks in advance.
  11. Newer map than F5 sync 2 ??

    Helloooo :-) Is there a newer map than F5 for the sync 2 premium nav in my st. Jamie
  12. Hi I had a look at removing a focus mk2 windscreen today. Could do with a little advise before I continue though. I have got the wire to cut through the adhesive. Do you need to take the trim on the edge of the screen out first.i tried to do this, but it kept breaking off. Not sure if it should come out with the screen, or to take it out first. I' assuming a new screen doesn' come with the trim on it. Just wondered if anyone had any experience in this area. I would be great full of anyone' input.
  13. Hi I had a look at removing a focus mk2 windscreen today. Could do with a little advise before I continue though. I have got the wire to cut through the adhesive. Do you need to take the trim on the edge of the screen out first.i tried to do this, but it kept breaking off. Not sure if it should come out with the screen, or to take it out first. I' assuming a new screen doesn' come with the trim on it. Just wondered if anyone had any experience in this area. I would be great full of anyone' input.
  14. I need to clean the main earth connection on the body. The bolt has a surprisingly small head (10mm spanner), which has merely deformed when trying to loosen it. I presumed that the nut (under the wing) was captive, and wouldn't turn when loosening the bolt. Maybe it isn't captive but it seems a challenge to get any kind of spanner/socket onto the nut due to the restricted space caused by the coil spring. Is there a means of releasing the bolt (after I've filed the head back to shape), or am I better off getting a new battery earth strap and making a new chassis earth point away from the coil spring?
  15. Hi, I am looking for some information/advice on the removal of the old and installation of the new cambelt on my 2008 mk 2.5 VVTi Focus, and where to purchase the bits from. I've heard somewhere your'e supposed to change the cam pulleys on the VVTi engine, and a few bolts that are one time use. If anyone can shed some light on this for me it would be much appreciated! Thanks, Jordan
  16. Greetings

    Greetings, A new member here who found these forums while searching for general info on a Focus Zetec 1.5 120PS diesel (I take delivery of a 2015 model on Wednesday). The reason I'm no longer driving my beloved 10 year old Mondeo is because the oil filter fell off last week after being serviced at a main dealer a couple of days before! The engine damage was terminal, hence the Focus coming into my possession as part of a generous recompense by the dealer (as well as me parting with a load of cash!). I look forward to bugging all the experts in the Focus Club whenever I need any help! Paul
  17. Hey guys and gals, I am looking to replace the standard halogen bulbs and maybe plastic coverings with led lights and stylish ones. Any ideas? Tips? and products? Thank you in advance, Dave
  18. Hi, I just bought a ford focus titanium model (2015) and wanted to add sat nav. Rather than buy the sat nav from the dealer I foolishly bought a sat nav sd card from ebay here is the link to the item I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191658107200?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I was wondering where I install this in the newest ford focus. I read online that there was something in the glove box or attached to the unit but I can't find anything. There is a Sd Card slot in the arm rest, when I inserted the SD Card here nothing happened. Anyone know how you install the sat nav updates to the latest model of Ford Focus. All I can get from google is vague links about older models. Thanks so much in advance. David
  19. Hi I am joining the official ranks of the juddering powershifters owners club and just about to start the process of trying to get Ford to sort it. So if you'll bear with me, some background and then a couple of questions for anyone in the know. Car: Nothing in particular special about it. It's a 1.6 Titanium Automatic on a 62 plate (build 23/11/2012, sold a couple of weeks later). Special to me though. Great load-lugger for band equipment and the black looks awesome on the drive. I bought the car in July 2016. Problem: I noticed around March this year that the clutch would judder. I managed to narrow it down to once the car has heated up (about 15 minutes of driving) and if I was stuck in traffic, the car would judder in gears 1 and 2. I also noticed that if I went from a slow speed and then took off with decent acceleration that the judder would persist or the car just wouldn't do a good job of deciding what gear it should be in. This is also taking a dramatic hit on the mpg. Right now over a week, my combined MPG is around 31mpg which is a bit rubbish if you ask me. First efforts: I had my MOT due in July 2017. I had already reported the issue to my dealership when I first noticed. They just said that there was a recall on the vehicle for software and I would be just as well to wait until my MOT/Service to have it done. Not a problem, I waited. I picked up the car and the girl said that they did the software and had reset whatever it is they had reset. It reoccurred maybe 3-4 weeks after. I've been using it like that until now after reading the horror stories of clutch packs and £1600 bills. Frankly I can't do £1600 and given my only warranty was a 1-year ford direct used warranty and I've been busy with work lately, I just didn't have time until the last few days. OK my fault, no excuse, silly me. So I'm doing a little more research and I check on ETIS that I have an Outstanding Field Service Action which is: 4W567 - DPS6/6DCT250. Ford Customer Service: I didn't call up to have a go, I merely wanted to know direct from Ford what this was, was it actually a warranty extension as various Google posts seem to think and what exactly is covered? The question had been raised on one of the topics I had read that this OFS only covered the actual software and not the clutch pack, gearbox, what have you. Ford Customer Service rep wouldn't even confirm that it was even a warranty extension, only that the OFS related to the "gearbox control module". He wouldn't be any more specific than that and referred me to my dealership. Without sounding like "that guy" it sounded like an offshore call center to me so I accepted this guy had no clue what I was on about in any case. Dealership: I called up the dealership. The guy who booked me in was a lot more helpful. I'm using Gates of Stevenage as it's my closest one, but I don't know if the booking in guys are some sort of Centralised place or if it's a bloke sat in Stevenage somewhere. Whatever is the case, he was as helpful as he could be. He listened to what I was saying and said that the warranty was extended on my gearbox. He couldn't say how long the warranty was extended too and referred me to Ford Customer Services (I don't think I'll bother getting back to FCS given the above conversation) but I'm happy he gave me what information he had to hand. Well, he can't give me what he doesn't have. tl/dr: So my story so far is it's going in on Thursday. It's had the software update/reset whatever it is and the problem is not resolved. So my questions if anybody knows is: 1 My car is a 2012/13 build. Is my OFSA code 4W567 - DPS6/6DCT250 still valid? Is it five years as what seems to be posted? If so that takes me up to December 2017 which is grand. 2 If it is indeed covered until December 2012 and my dealership do another software fix, if the problem reoccurs after December 2017 when my (suspected) five year extension is up, am I basically boned? Or because the software fix didn't fix the issue, will it still come under this OFSA given the problem was reported initially within the period? 3 Does anybody actually know what exactly is covered? Does it relate to software only? Is it the entire gearbox? 4 Has anyone been through this process before with their Powershift gearbox? What was your result and rough timeline to get it resolved? 5 Did anyone not get any luck with this OFSA? If so, just so I'm prepared for the worst case scenario of my dealership saying "No warranty, box is boned, your bill is £xxxx", what sort of money am I looking at for a proper permanent fix and how long are we talking? Given my work, being without a car will be very difficult. Not impossible and I can put up with it for a couple of weeks if need be but if we're talking months then I have a bigger issue. I will keep this post updated as to be honest, on my travels I didn't really find any comprehensive timelines. So for any would-be Googlers of the future, hope I can help!
  20. Hi guys, Brand new to the forums and to the moding culture as well. I’m due to pick up my Focus ST Line next Thursday and have been looking st various minor mods I could make to start off and I’ve noticed a topic popping up more frequently in various forums; the lack of grill bagde for the ST Line models. Im a senior graphic designer, worked for companies both large and small so I have a good idea on how I can replicate the branding used on the wing badges and have it manufactured as a bolt on badge through the grill. It wouldn’t look like the wing badge has just been put on the front. The ST logo itself, the line and the word “Line” will be laser cut (will cleverly join them all into one so it’s cheaper to cut). I’m just wondering if it’s something people would be interested in? Not got figures or anything like that as of yet but I’m just wondering if it’s worth trying and giving ST Line owners something they can use? I’m interested in seeing the response. thanks guys!
  21. Hi fellow Focus owners. I've been discussing with some friends regarding rust in a tank but isn't most fuel tanks made out of plastic? To be more specific; is the fuel tank of a ford focus hatchback 2001 made out of plastic or steel/galvanized steel? Is there any way to check it for a layman like me? I've been searching the internet for some time now, and I couldn't find any deep specifications for the car though.. I hope there is a wiseman out there to answer. - Thanks on advance
  22. I'm getting new wheels for my focus mk2, also dropping it 30mm on eibach pro kit springs. Have a few wheel options in mind including 18 inch 2016 rs rep wheels, 2016 18'' st reps and genuine ford kuga wheels. Has anyone any pictures of a focus mk2 with 19 inch kuga Wheels? I'll attach pic below. Thanks
  23. Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum and thought i would sign up seen as i have recently bought myself a 1.6 MK3 2011 Focus Titanium. I'm just writing to get some advice because i want to carry out some nice modifications to it. Nothing to extreme (don't want to look like a boy racer) however i would like to make some visual modifications to begin with, does any have any advice regarding this at all? maybe a nice body kit, rims etc. Has anybody made any modifications that they can share with myself and any tips at all. I'm new to this as this is my first car but i do love a custom job. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!
  24. Ecoboost Rattle?

    Does anyone else’s ecoboost focus have a rattle at the low end when putting the revs on? If I’m stationary and put my foot down, not hard, there’s a rattle as the revs increase. Not sure if it’s somethibf loose inside the car, something rattling in the engine or if it’s all perfectly fine and that’s what they do? It sounds like a chain rattling. I’ve filmed it and uploaded it here if anyone can advise?
  25. Step 1 – obtain a modified ELM327 cable First of all you will need a modified ELM327 cable so that you can begin to activate cruise in your foci. The cable must be equipped with a MS/HS CAN switch and be able to run at a baudrate of 500K. There are a lot on these cables on eBay that claim to run at 500k but don’t (I found out the hard way), I would recommend buying it from a site called James Simpson (link below) as he used quality cables and can guarantee the 500k baudrate. Why is the speed important you may ask? Well, you will need to communicate with the PCM to activate cruise which required a connection speed of 500k, any less and you won’t be able to do it. confirmed 500k modified elm 327 cable Step 2 – obtain ELMconfig software, version 2.10 and 2.17b (links provided) Once you have the two versions downloaded, extract them in separate folders and have them handy so you can access them easily.(two new folders on the desktop is best!) elmconfig 2.10 and 2.17 download Step 3 – installing Cable drivers Before using the cable to connect to your car make sure that you have the required drivers so you don’t run into any unexpected problems. To do this plug the adapter into your laptop ONLY, windows should find the device and install it. Once it’s installed you can start connecting it to your car. Step 4 – setup and connecting to your Foci MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A CHARGED BATTERY!! I would recommend a fully charged battery that can hold its charge while in use for at least 1 Hour! Take your laptop and cable to your Foci, plug the cable into the OBD2 port and your laptop. Now launch ELMconfig 2.17b. Make sure your settings match these shown below: Language: english Driver: FTDI D2xx Device: FT232R.... Baudrate: 500,000 (un-select auto Connection: Focus II / C-MaxI / Kuga I Now the programing begins! Step 1 – Switch in MS-CAN position (left) GEM – Configuration – Page 3 Click “Read from GEM” If “Cruise Control Configuration” it ticked then move to the next step, if not then tick it Click “Write to GEM” Wait for program to write and reboot the GEM Step 2 – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) HEC – Configuration – Page 1 If “Cruise Control Configuration” it ticked then move to the next step, if not then tick it Click “Write to HEC” Wait for program to write and reboot the HEC Step 3a – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Configuration Click “Read from PCM” Make sure “Integrated Speed Control” is ticked Click “Save to file” – save it to a clutter free, easily accessible folder (I recommend desktop) Step 3b – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Procedures – Page 2 DO NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS! Click “Read firmware from PCM to BIN-file” – this takes anything *this bit I struggle to remember but don’t worry it wont ruin your car! Once you click read you might get an option to save the bin file (this might be before or after the reading). If after reading it does not prompt you to save anything then click “Save firmware to BIN-file”, chose the same location where you saved the PCM configuration file. Now close ELMconfig 2.17 and open 2.10 Make sure the settings are the same as used in 2.17 (note the device won’t show its name instead it will just display its com port but this is auto detected) and click open port. Step 3c - Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Information Click “Read” and wait for it to read all the fields. Step 3d - Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Procedures – Page 2 Click “Load VID-block from file” Here you want to select the PCM configuration file you saved (the one where you ticked integrated speed control) Click “Load firmware from file” Now select the file you saved from reading the PCM to bin operation (the one that took a long time in comparison) Click “Write current firmware in PCM” This will reprogram the PCM, it will take anything from 1 – 10 minutes. You may get an engine malfunction warning appear while reprogramming, do not worry this is normal and happened to me, it because the PCM module is not able to communicate while its being reprogrammed so it shows as an error. DO NOT UNPLUG or STOP to process or you will mess up your PCM. Once its done it will reboot and inform you its complete, now simply close elmconfig and remove the cable, start your engine and take your foci out for a drive and try cruise – IT will work !!!