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Showing results for tags 'forums/1.6+diesel'.

Found 133 results

  1. Please bear with me on this one. Until this week I haven't heard of a DPF. My last car was a 2010 1.4tdci Fiesta Edge, fitted with a DPF. My journeys mainly consist of trundling around town with the odd motorway run. And I had the Fiesta for 2 years and 8 months, and the only problem I ever had with that car was the rubber seals around the fuel injectors. There was not any other single fault. 2 months ago, I bought a 2009 1.6tdci Focus econetic. Reasons being i can't afford to run a petrol car with the cost of fuel and tax. And early this week, whilst doing around 60mph the engine lost a lot of power, and on the dash all that was displayed was "Engine Malfunction". I had no prior warning about this. So took it to my local mechanic, and he explained the issue, and cleaned it and now all is well. So I've done some reading about DPF's, and 9/10 people are saying to stay away unless you're on the motorway often, which makes sense considering how a DPF burns off the soot. But I'm a little confused/worried. My previous fiesta had 50,000 on the clock when I bought it, and I changed it at 60,000, and I never had a problem with the DPF. And this focus has 86,000 on the clock. So, what I would like to know, is, 1) Did I get lucky with the fiesta? 2) How long can a DPF go without cleaning just driving around town? 3) Will me taking it onto the motorway for 20 mins clear the filter? 4) If so, how often would I need to do a motorway run? Also, I have read that to begin burning off the soot in the DPF, the engine revs need to be around 2,500rpm. Which is a slight issue, as the other night on the motorway for about 3 miles, at 70mph in 5th, the engine revs only hit 2,000rpm. So, only hitting 2,000rpm even on a motorway, does that indicate that I have an "active regeneration", as opposed to a "passive regeneration'? I'm aware fundamentally, I've made an error in buying this car, I only buy diesel to keep the cost down, with tax and fuel. I'm just wondering, will everything be ok, if I take it for a high speed run say every 2 weeks? After discussing this with my father, he is under the impression that, I didn't have a problem with the fiesta, so it's likely that you will generally be problem free with the focus. After paying £200 for the DPF clean, I'd like to help the engine/filter as much as I can, I also have to consider, that I have no idea how the car was treated by the previous owner. Any help/advice is appreciated.
  2. IF

    IF,  note big IF I get the job position I've applied for my mileage is going to go from near nothing to approx 75-80 miles a day, so I'm thinking of changing my petrol 125ps tit x fiesta for a focus if needs be Few questions though, what spec to go for ? I've toyed with the ST3 but tbh it'd be a waste, so I'm more thinking the normal specced cars. What does each spec really offer? Is the better mpg really present for a diesel against a ecoboost petrol?  What are the downsides to a diesel?  As I'll be honest in all my years of driving, apart from the odd van for 5 minutes, I've never really driven one, not to get used to their quirks at least anyway Help me 
  3. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would.   TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help?   Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  4. I recently bought a used Ford Focus 1.8 Diesel (5 Door) and have a couple of questions maybe you guys can help me with. 1. When the car starts it produces quite a lot of white smoke which stops after a minute or two and is not present when I rev the engine. However, when I stop the car and get out I do notice a strong diesel smell. There is no ticking from the engine when I turn it off and the car seems to drive fine so I am not sure what the problem is. 2. The throttle seems to be a little on the dull side. As I said above the car does seems to drive fine but something just doesn't feel right about the throttle - I have driven many turbo diesels in the past and they had a bit of punch to them when you put your foot down - whereas the Focus does respond it just doesn't seem very aggressive. 3. A couple of mornings ago (it was very cold just above freezing) I started the engine and it was ticking over fine but when I put it in gear and tried to reverse out of my parking spot the throttle simply didn't respond at all. The engine was still running and ticking over fine but nothing from the throttle. Within 10 seconds it was working fine but it was totally dead for those first 10 seconds. 4. When I have the vents on to clear the windscreen, the passenger side clears very quickly but the drivers side takes an age - is there an easy way to check if the fan is broken? I am going to book it into a Ford Center for a winter service next week and will ask them about these other issues as well - but as you know these places can often charge a fortune for things which actually don't need doing so I was just hoping to get some sort of idea of possible issues before I take it in. Also does anyone know of a device which will allow me to read ECU codes to give me some more indication of the problems and also a resource for explaining what the codes mean? I am thinking the problems could be something to do with the injectors - I also thought perhaps the head gasket but I have been told that usually there would be some ticking sound when the engine is turned off if the gasket was the problem. If it is the head gasket how difficult is it to change yourself - I know a garage will charge a small fortune for doing it so if it is not so difficult I would consider doing it myself. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.
  5. Hi just looking for some advice or if anybody else has had this problem. I have a 58 plate Ford Focus Style 1.8tdci and am having some power problems when the fuel tank is at a certain level. When I fill the tank the car runs smoothly for the first 100 miles then problems start occurring. When accelerating at around 2000-2500revs the car suddenly looses power and judders, it doesn't cut out but if I take my foot of the accelerator it will ease off and I can then accelerate a bit more then the same problems. When the fuel then reaches 1/4 of a tank the problem stops and it runs fine again. Appologies for going on a bit first time on here and slightly baffled with the whole thing.
  6. Hello I have a Mondeo which is making a whining/whirring sound, not just under acceleration (ie makes the same sound when foot taken off the accelerator), and is more pronounced at low speeds (10-35mph especially) - the sound resembles the noise some cars make when reversing at more than walking pace. It seems to be more a bit noticeable after 15 minutes into a journey. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  7. Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a new daily and I shortlisted my model range to either a Focus or a Fiesta. Since it is going to be a daily car I want it to be a diesel. The diesel engines I'm opting for are either the 1.4 tdci (DLD 414) or 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Fiesta or the 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Focus. Now I know that these engines are not all done by Ford but in some websites I read that Ford use Peugeot (HDi) engines and in others I read that these engines where produced together with Peugeot. So what I am asking is, is it true that these engines are only done by Peugeot and Ford source the engines? or it is a new engine that Ford designed researched and produced together with Peugeot? Please any sources in your answers are very appreciated since I want to see whether Ford are sourcing PSA engines or developing them with PSA. Thank You :)
  8. Ford Transit Diesel Van 2008 TDCI sleeps outside, and the gear selection is sticky. Is this normal? After idling the engine, the gears seem to loosen up. ( it cost more than 2 X the Ford C-Max, but it still is the runt of the fleet! :D the C-Max sleeps in the garage! :) )
  9. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  10. Engine Cut Out After Starting

    Hi, this is my first posting on here, although I have followed the site for several years for advice. I have a 2006 Ford Focus Sport Tdci purchased on finance 10 months ago. The 3 month warranty has already expired, and I have 26 more payments to make before I own the car outright. For the past 10 months this car has worked fine, with no issues at all, and sailed through the MOT 3 months ago. Yesterday morning I did what I always do. I turned the ignition key to power up the car, without starting the engine. I waited the second or two for the glow plug light to go off, then started the ignition. The engine started immediately. I put the car in reverse, and just as I lifted my foot off the clutch to reverse off my drive the engine cut out. I put the car in neutral and attempted to restart the engine. This took about 5-10 seconds of whirring before the engine kicked in. The car worked fine for my 35 mile journey, and was fine 10 hours later when I returned to my car for my 35 mile journey home. This morning I again did the same thing. The engine cut out again at the same moment. This time it took 4-5 goes to get the engine started again, but on this occasion the dashboard showed some warning lights. The glow plug light came on for a few seconds, as did the engine management light. The power train light stayed on until the engine started. I revved the engine, got a small cloud of light grey smoke from the exhaust and the car started fine. I drove it only half a mile, turned off the engine for 5 minutes the restarted, and it was fine. No warning lights. Any ideas on the problem and expected cost would be appreciated. I'm guessing the garage or the finance company will not take liability.
  11. Hi All I'm new here so if this is the wrong category for help with my Ford focus just let me know or hopefully a mod can move it. So Yeah... I've been having all sorts of problems with my Ford Focus TDdi 2001. Main issue right now is after letting a friend practice "hill starts" in it, after a while and a lot of stalling and cranking of the engine getting it to start again, it died. I turn the key and nothing now not cranking at all, but all the lights come on. Apparently they was keeping the engine cranking a lot and holding the ignition for longer than they should have done and to get it started again he rolled it backwards down the hill and then started the ignition which eventually worked to get it back to me. If the car is pushed it starts up straight away, and I mean straight away like a car should doesn't need all the cranking of the engine. I'm aware that it could be the fuel pump, never considered the starter motor until now when it won't turn over, possibly an injection problem...etc Any Idea what you think happened and is the problem? EDIT: There is no fault codes showing at all.
  12. 2013 model on 13 plate (3 years old), 13,500 miles. Good fuel used (not supermarket), full ford service history. On a 30 mile commute each day, I at least once get a judder through the accelerator pedal and the rev needle flickers up to an additional 1000rpm for just a few seconds simultaneously. This usually happens just prior or after changing gears mostly 4th, 5th and 6th (normal acceleration, not being thrashed). Taken to Ford garage twice, they plug in ECU and cannot find anything wrong. Warranty runs out in 6 months, don't want problem to worsen and then get a huge out of warranty bill. Worried also that the juddering will happen when overtaking or pulling out onto a slip lane, as although there is no loss of power when this occurs, it does not pick up speed either. If anyone can assist, please reply. Many thanks.
  13. Hi all. I have a 06 plate focus fitted with the 1.6 cdti engine. The turbo has blown and im looking to fit a new one. Im no stranger under the bonnet so im looking to do the work myself. As i know this is a common problem for this engine. Im looking for advice on which steps i need to take to carry out the repair. Also, does anyone konw where i can get a refurbished turbo from? I have searched for one but i dont know which companies are better to use etc. Thanks in advance
  14. I am looking to buy a used car and I am thinking of a Focus. I don't have a ton of money and am looking for a car that will last me two years max. I have found a 06 plate TDCi focus zetec climate for £2000 but the mileage is 143k - it has all service history with it. I think it is high mileage of course but was just wondering what others thought as I do not know a lot about cars as this will only be my third one. I know diesel engines do last longer if looked after etc - which is why the mileage dosent bother me but really i know nothing (s$*t) Any advice, opinions would be great thanks.
  15. Hello, I need to try and find the location (or even better if anyone actually knows it) the engine code of a 2011 Fiesta Titanium Diesel 1.4 TDCi. I've had the plastic cover off the top of the engine and have a look around the block but can't see it anywhere. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  16. ive done some research on the internet prior to choosing the correct brand of replacment induction filter, most would assume that the best choice to be K&N but i have found Green Cotton Air filter to have the edge over K&N or PiperCross due to Green's manufacturing process being more hands on instead of automated manufacturing. the green filter in bonded with precision to the frame of the filter the results are more air flow in to the filter where K&N use an automated process resulting in over use of bonding glue to the frame of the filter which can spread across the panel restricting flow and performance of the filter leaving is performing less than K&N's original prototype that they use to get their gains figures from. but anyways enough of me blabbing on about the differences, because the information is available on other websites for all to view without me re-typing it lol. to purchase a Green Cotton performance induction filter for your ford and feel the difference for yourself log on to http://www.priracing....php/144/1/ford and get 10% Discount off your Green Cotton Performance filter by using the code FORDOWNERSCLUB10 you can also get 20% Discount off any Ritchbrook branded stock by entering Discount Code: RICHBROOK20 both offers are eclusive to members of fordownersclub.com special thanks to Ross at Priracing for this kind offer. So here's whats in the box for the focus 1.6TDCi induction filter. Ive decided to upgrade the standard ford induction filter in my 1.6TDCi focus to a free flowing high performance induction filter. and since i was changing it ive decided to create this guide to show others what is envolved aswell as report on the performance difference between the stock and aftermarket direct replacment air box filter. fitting time takes around 15-20 minutes, Tools required are an 8mm socket and a pair of rubber latex gloves So Open the bonnet, remove the battery cover if fitted. and using the 8MM socket loosen the 4 bolts that are holding the lid of the induction box in place. please note the bolts do not pull free/seperate from the lid, they remove from the bottom section but stay inside the lid section by design, Once lid has been removed you will see your heavy stock ford filter, hopfully ford wont have bent your stock filter when putting it in their as they have done with mine. place your hand on the top end of the filter and pull upwards to remove it. once removed, ensure the lid from the induction box aswell as the 8mm socket are stored off of the engine bay and close the bonnet if you are planning to wait a couple of minutes prior to fitting the new filter. this will help prevent any contamination getting in to the induction pipes.
  17. Evening all, I've bought a bottle of Wynns injector cleaner as recommended by a mate at work (I also bought the DPF regenerator fluid too), but due to the excellent security on the Mk4 facelift's fuel filler cap, I can't get the fluid in! I can't push the white cap out the way. The bottles themselves, despite having a long-ish, thin-ish neck, don't push the cap out the way. I've tried pushing it down using a tent peg and a great deal of force but nothing seems to move it. Can anyone help? I hope that all makes sense. Many thanks
  18. Hi, 1st post in the forum don't think it's in the right place but hopefully someone can help. It's a problem with my mums fusion 1400 TDCI. Basically it hesitates/misfires very intermittently. Sounds like it loses signal to an injector every so often if your listening to it with the bonnet up.. I have driven it and its so random when it does it, it doesn't matter what speed or gear your in or if your changing gear etc.. I have had a read around and general consensus is it might need a software update?? Is this done via IDS?? Is it a take to ford job?? Can I check for updates myself?? It's a shame my peugeot/Citroen diag software won't read it as its a pug/CIT engine. If any mechanics out there can help a fellow mechanic that would be great. Thanks Chris
  19. OK so basically I had a 2.0 TDCi Zetec S a few years back on an 04 plate that had diesel pooling around the injectors. It turned out to be the Leak off pipes/ connectors, we changed the lot to be sure. However when we changed it the car would not start at all! It took about a week of disconnecting and really connecting rando stuff to.get it finally started in limp mode. After that it was fine and the error we were getting of low pressure in the fuel rail went. Now I've just bought a mondeo 2.0 TDCi Zetec again with the same issue if diesel pooling around the injectors. My concern is ill.change the pipes and connectors and my car won't start again! Can anyone she'd some light on why that would happen? Thanks in advance :)
  20. Hi, Can you please give me some directions what actions to take on the smoking issue I have with my 07 plate 1.8 Ford focus tdi, which has done about 90K. I am not very mechanical so please bare with me. When starting the car in the morning winter or summer it stalls once or twice, every time that happens very dark smoke blows out. I can also now see loads of smoke when on 1, 2 and 3 gear. When AC is used it smells of exhaust. Not sure how to fix the problem economically. Thanks MB
  21. Hi All, I took my car into a garage on Monday because there was a smell of Diesel in the car when stationery. The mechanic changed the seals on the injectors (seemingly a common problem) and the smell is no more. The problem is that now there is significantly less power in the car. The engine sounds fine, runs fine, revs fine out of gear, but when in gear and driving it just doesn't accelerate half as much as it did before. Apparently the injectors have been coded/calibrated since being reattached, the turbo is working fine and the filter has been replaced, but all to no avail. Has anyone had this before and/or have a solution? Its been at the garage now for 4 days and I'm starting to wonder whether I should take it out and move it into a proper Ford Garage. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  22. Hi Boys and Girls, I'm the proud owner of a 55 reg focus 1.6 tdci security dog van and, would like some help with locating a gearbox for it. I'm so far finding this seemingly simple task increasingly impossible as they are a rare car to start with. I'm wondering if anyone knows if any of the gearboxes from the petrol variant will fit or any from say a cmax or fiesta (if they made this in an auto diesel)? If I knew some answers then I'd be able to widen my search including these models. If anyone knows of anyone with a gearbox for my car, please do get in touch as I want to get my dog van back on the road ASAP. Thanks in Advance. Bally80
  23. Misfuled :(

    So on Friday on my way to work I mis-fueled my 1.4 TDCi Fiesta. The worst part is I didn't notice and Drove to work. On my way home I realised and pulled over. Called the RAC, They Sent out a Recovery Truck from Elite Recovery in Falkirk. They charged me £200 to Drain The Fuel (Full Tank), Flush the Fuel Line, Install a new Fuel and Oil Filter and give me 10 Litres of Diesel. I feel ripped off since its not a difficult thing to do to be honest. As far as I'm aware everything checked out fine and theres no lasting damage to the car. Overall a very expensive mistake I don't plan on making again! After filling up with Diesel again the overall cost was about £290 £40 Unleaded £200 Repair £50 Diesel It could have turned out alot worse than it did to be honest.
  24. 1.8tdci Wet And Dry Belts.

    Hi folks. I just got my car back from the main dealer after having the wet and dry belts/water pump/gasket oil pump replaced. The engine is covered in a fine layer of hot oil on return home..and the 3 screws beside the oil reservoir lid are somewhat loose....I tightened them up myself, but do ye think the oil is the left overs of a long job or is the oil symptomatic of shoddy work? I oresume tightening those screws was a good idea?
  25. Hi, I've had this issue for a while now, probably since before Christmas last year, in the winter it really struggled to start, after turning the key the starter would turn the engine over but it would turn over slower and slower but sometimes it would suddenly really pick up pace and fire the engine up. I replaced the battery and it seemed to go away I've been using the car less anyway. Now what I'm finding is still get the slow-ish turnover but also after a drive and the engine is hot/warm when i try to restart the engine just coughs and spluts and rattles and shakes then cuts out, does it a few times but then fires up fine. Here is a video of it happening; https://youtu.be/WkYW0JdpYBU I've read various other posts on forums and there seems all sorts of stories some ending with replacing the starter motor and some relating to DMF. My DMF was replaced about 50,000 miles ago (at 81k, I'm now on 127k) so dont suspect it of being that, so I've ordered a new starter motor. Do you guys think it could be starter motor? And also, does anyone have instructions on how to replace starter motor, its a mk4 2007 ('57 plate) 1.8 TDCi estate. Hope you can help. Thanks Gavin