AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/1.6TDCi+EGR+Blank'.

Found 28 results

  1. Please bear with me on this one. Until this week I haven't heard of a DPF. My last car was a 2010 1.4tdci Fiesta Edge, fitted with a DPF. My journeys mainly consist of trundling around town with the odd motorway run. And I had the Fiesta for 2 years and 8 months, and the only problem I ever had with that car was the rubber seals around the fuel injectors. There was not any other single fault. 2 months ago, I bought a 2009 1.6tdci Focus econetic. Reasons being i can't afford to run a petrol car with the cost of fuel and tax. And early this week, whilst doing around 60mph the engine lost a lot of power, and on the dash all that was displayed was "Engine Malfunction". I had no prior warning about this. So took it to my local mechanic, and he explained the issue, and cleaned it and now all is well. So I've done some reading about DPF's, and 9/10 people are saying to stay away unless you're on the motorway often, which makes sense considering how a DPF burns off the soot. But I'm a little confused/worried. My previous fiesta had 50,000 on the clock when I bought it, and I changed it at 60,000, and I never had a problem with the DPF. And this focus has 86,000 on the clock. So, what I would like to know, is, 1) Did I get lucky with the fiesta? 2) How long can a DPF go without cleaning just driving around town? 3) Will me taking it onto the motorway for 20 mins clear the filter? 4) If so, how often would I need to do a motorway run? Also, I have read that to begin burning off the soot in the DPF, the engine revs need to be around 2,500rpm. Which is a slight issue, as the other night on the motorway for about 3 miles, at 70mph in 5th, the engine revs only hit 2,000rpm. So, only hitting 2,000rpm even on a motorway, does that indicate that I have an "active regeneration", as opposed to a "passive regeneration'? I'm aware fundamentally, I've made an error in buying this car, I only buy diesel to keep the cost down, with tax and fuel. I'm just wondering, will everything be ok, if I take it for a high speed run say every 2 weeks? After discussing this with my father, he is under the impression that, I didn't have a problem with the fiesta, so it's likely that you will generally be problem free with the focus. After paying £200 for the DPF clean, I'd like to help the engine/filter as much as I can, I also have to consider, that I have no idea how the car was treated by the previous owner. Any help/advice is appreciated.
  2. A few months back, my 10 reg Focus 1.6Tdci went into turbo overdrive, which I had to stop by stalling it. It was recovered to our local Halfords garage. They said too much oil in engine had bypassed seals and got into turbo with turbo then running on the oil. They dismantled the turbo system and cleaned it all out. Replaced filter etc. They had to fit a new CDPF which cost me an arm and a leg. They instructed me on how to drive it to regen the new CDPF, but that didn't work. They took it to the local Ford dealership who did a forced regen. Having got the car back, I noticed that at low revs in low gears (around 1100 to 1500 rpm in 2nd and 3rd), the engine would hesitate. I lived with this and the car behaved normally otherwise. However, just over a week ago, on the way to work, the alarm sounded and a message came up saying "ENGINE MALFUNCTION". I found that this reset by turning the engine off, but came back after driving again for about 15 or 20 minutes. Before I had chance to take to the Ford dealership, I had an extra fault arise with the little orange engine symbol lighting up. This didn't go away with restarting the engine, so I took it into the dealership. They managed to clear the orange engine light then suggested I took it for a drive to see if it was OK, but after about 20 minutes, the "ENGINE MALFUNCTION" message came up again. I took it back to the dealership for them to investigate. That was Tuesday, it's now Friday and they still haven't come up with an answer.
  3. I have a focus 1.6 desiel zetec 110 2013 model and about 9 months ago the center console went blank - totally black! I left the car for about 30 mins and then started it again and it was all OK. It has done it again this morning and I was wondering if this is a known fault and if so would a firmware/software fix the problem? How do I check the ECU firmware version to see if maybe I need an update - any sugestions welcome
  4. Hi all, I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one, Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results. Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item. Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates. This guide is now available to download in pdf format making it eaier to print or share, See link to download: Tools Required: 16mm Socket 5/16 Socket 8mm Socket 13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted) T30 Torx screw driver T20 Torx screw driver Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how, But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best. . Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel. Once unclipped; Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car. Next step is to remove the panel beneath also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel. Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car. When screws are removed from the panel; Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear: when removed: Store in a safe place until replacing on the car Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine, Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?" Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block. This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!! This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler, Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber. Now to fit the EGR blanking plate; You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts. Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler" And The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block, This is a case of trial pulling Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate. See in the image below this text: The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange, I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate, So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate, This is best for a good seal. Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine In to the left. Very easy, Just hook on to the top bolt And Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself. Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve, Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate. Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up Followed by the nut on the egr cooler. Here is the blanking plate fitted: Now to replace the panels Ensure the seals are free from dirt Also check the top panel under the windscreen, It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal. .. All back togeather You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range, Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little) Engine idle is quieter Exhaust smoke doesn't exist Your induction system now takes in clean air only No carbon in your induction Less engine oil contamination All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting, Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated. Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though. Well worth every penny and more! By far the best modification on the car to date. Diesel Engines with an active or once active EGR Valve suffer heavily from carbon deposits contaminating the engine oil, These carbon deposits operate much like cholesterol in the human body gathering in the arteries of the heart; These carbon deposits mix with the oil and turn to sludge which slowly gathers in the turbo oil feed pipe, Eventually leading to oil starvation in the turbo causing instant turbo failure. I've used Wynn's engine flush before and once recommended it, however wynn's formula is a bit too abrasive which strips everything from the engine internals leading to risk of scribing and minute cavitations the product leaves nothing behind only your next fill of oil to protect internals. The best product on the market to flush out the carbon and other harmful deposits from your engine is from a company called Xado, They manufacture an organic based engine flush product which also has some revitalizant: Forms an anti-wear coating on friction parts immediately during oil system flushing Creates reserve of anti-wear protection properties, prevents possible defects on friction surfaces during further engine operation. Link: This bottle gets poured in to the existing engine oil when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature. You can then drive for a distance up to 20km/15miles prior to draining the oil. This makes Total Flush from Xado an ideal product for those of us whom don't carry out oil changes ourselves, Simply pour the bottle in to the engine prior to leaving your car in to the garage for a service gives great peace of mind and protection. I've used this product a few times now myself on my 1.6TDCi engine, I've noticed the engine idles quieter and drives smoother its definitely worth purchasing as part of the routine service on your vehicle.
  5. Hi folks, I'm looking at blanking off the EGR valve on my Mark 2 Focus. Perhaps a silly question, but at which end of the EGR system is it best to do the blanking? At the valve end itself, which is at the top of the engine and easy to get to, or at the end where it comes off the exhaust manifold? If you blank the manifold end you bypass the whole cooler system, but does that matter? Thanks in advance.
  6. Focus Mk3.0 1.6Tdci Start/stop?

    Hi Guys Just recently got my car back from the garage after a clutch replacement. My Start/Stop is now not working as it did when it went in. I think they disconnected the battery as all my trip computers have reset. Any idea's on what I need to do to get this going again? Also, windows now don't go all the way down automatically with one touch of the switch. I think this will be an easy fix as it was on my vauxhall's but want to clarify the procedure for both of these. Cheers Charles
  7. ive done some research on the internet prior to choosing the correct brand of replacment induction filter, most would assume that the best choice to be K&N but i have found Green Cotton Air filter to have the edge over K&N or PiperCross due to Green's manufacturing process being more hands on instead of automated manufacturing. the green filter in bonded with precision to the frame of the filter the results are more air flow in to the filter where K&N use an automated process resulting in over use of bonding glue to the frame of the filter which can spread across the panel restricting flow and performance of the filter leaving is performing less than K&N's original prototype that they use to get their gains figures from. but anyways enough of me blabbing on about the differences, because the information is available on other websites for all to view without me re-typing it lol. to purchase a Green Cotton performance induction filter for your ford and feel the difference for yourself log on to http://www.priracing....php/144/1/ford and get 10% Discount off your Green Cotton Performance filter by using the code FORDOWNERSCLUB10 you can also get 20% Discount off any Ritchbrook branded stock by entering Discount Code: RICHBROOK20 both offers are eclusive to members of special thanks to Ross at Priracing for this kind offer. So here's whats in the box for the focus 1.6TDCi induction filter. Ive decided to upgrade the standard ford induction filter in my 1.6TDCi focus to a free flowing high performance induction filter. and since i was changing it ive decided to create this guide to show others what is envolved aswell as report on the performance difference between the stock and aftermarket direct replacment air box filter. fitting time takes around 15-20 minutes, Tools required are an 8mm socket and a pair of rubber latex gloves So Open the bonnet, remove the battery cover if fitted. and using the 8MM socket loosen the 4 bolts that are holding the lid of the induction box in place. please note the bolts do not pull free/seperate from the lid, they remove from the bottom section but stay inside the lid section by design, Once lid has been removed you will see your heavy stock ford filter, hopfully ford wont have bent your stock filter when putting it in their as they have done with mine. place your hand on the top end of the filter and pull upwards to remove it. once removed, ensure the lid from the induction box aswell as the 8mm socket are stored off of the engine bay and close the bonnet if you are planning to wait a couple of minutes prior to fitting the new filter. this will help prevent any contamination getting in to the induction pipes.
  8. Mk6 1.4 Post Blanking Problem

    After the blanking plate mod my 1.4 has a slight hicup in power, just intermittent and quite random, it's like a momentary ignition cut. I put some Wynn's diesel injector cleaner in the fuel and it runs a bit smoother now but still has the random hicup. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar thing and what might be causing it, thanks.
  9. Egr Valve

    Hi all. I have been advised that the lack of power from my Mondeo 2.0 163 in the lower rev range is caused by the EGR Valve and have been quoted £340 to change it. My question is Should I change, Clean or have t blanked off? My first instinct is to remove and clean it to see if that helps resolve the problem. Also Where is the Damn thing on my car? I cannot see it or I would have cleaned it first of all. Along with that would it make any difference to the cars performance to Remove and clean the inlet manifold. The car has covered just short of 130,000 miles. :)
  10. I thought I'd just post my recent experiences regarding the pesky EGR valve on my 55 1.6 tdci focus. Had to act following numerous and increasing limp mode activations and associated red cog illuminations. Spent a few evenings on this forum which convinced me that blanking it off was the way to go. (thanks to all the expert contributions) First tried unplugging the EGR valve with very positive results although it brought the engine MIL light on after the 3rd start. Bought a stainless steel plate off flea bay for the price of a pint and fitted it on Saturday. I only removed the engine cover bracket and pushed the fuel filter out the way 6 bolts in total. Found no need to remove the plastic scuttle or wipers. Used the wife's small mirror to see the 2 bolts on the EGR and slacken them off. Slid the plate manifold side of the gasket and tightened it all up etc. Including re-attaching the plug and restting the MIL it only took about 30 minutes. Happy to report 250 miles with no limp mode and no engine lights on. If you're in any doubt, give it a go. It's not challenging and the benefits are immediate. All the best
  11. Hi, I recently purchased my mk 2 focus 1.6 tdci estate car to replace my company car due to retirement.all seems well ,she goes quite nicely,however when I stop in traffic or reverse a little I get a strong smell of old diesel in the passenger compartment,but not if the fan is set to far I have replaced the oil and filter the pollen filter and engine air filter to no avail.the gear-lever gaiter was holed so that was replaced still with no improvement.the rubber seal along the rear of the engine bay,in front of the air intake(below the windscreen ) was loose ,now reinstated still has not solved the smell.if I have been on the road a stop the car and walk around it I get the same strong smell of old diesel? I would appreciate any help /comments.this car has 107,000 on the clock. Much obliged peter
  12. Hi all, I don't make many posts here, like to observe and read through some of the posts more than posts. Anyway I have been having issues with my Focus in recent months I have brought it to 2 different mechanics and they still happen. I thought I might post here and some of ye might be able to point me in the direction of the the root cause of the issue. A bit of background on the car, its a Titanium Focus, 2008 with DPF 109BHP. I bought it in Doncaster 18 months ago and brought it over to Ireland, re-registered etc and am delighted with the car. It have given me no problems until now. About 3 months ago I was driving home and the car started chugging. When I say chugging the car was simply cruising and it started kicking back at me or missing something for a split second, there was no loss of power just this kick from the front of the car back to me, and it can feel quite severe and uncomfortable. Brought it to a mechanic who worked for Ford in the past and he told me the car had an issues with the Cat, DPF and the jets. So one jet was replaced, the Cat was replaced and there was some kind of liquid put into the DPF (or some little tank that is linked to it) Drove the car for another 3 weeks and it was working perfect again, until the dreaded chugging started. Another mechanic told me the DPF was filling with soot, and to bring it out on the motorway and drive it in high revs to blow the soot out of the dpf. But the intermittent chugging continues. I have observed that the problem occurs mostly when I go under a half tank, and gets more severe the lower the dial gets on fuel gauge. When I am about to come onto the reserve the car has cut out when i come to a stop if its been chugging. (On a side note The fuel gauge in the past hasn't risen in the after i fill the tank immediately but that may not have be associated with this) The local Ford dealer is looking at it also but they are saying its a different DPF set up on it as its a UK import and some little tank connected to the dpf that drops liquid into the dpf could be causing this. Also some folks have told me that the focus has electric fuel sensors and electric pump and these may be dirty?? Nonetheless I am clueless with the nuts and bolts of cars. If anybody could shed any light on what I have just said I would be hugely grateful. Dec
  13. Hello, I'm after some advice... Last Sunday I was driving along and when I changed gear my clutch pedal suddenly clicked and its not been the same since... It was quite loud at first but then gradually got quieter. It was something I could feel as well as hear. Now it's not really audible but the feeling of the pedal is horrible. It's got the clicky jolt when I depress the clutch and its not as firm as it was before. I managed to get my head down there and look to see what was happening and there is a rod that comes from the master cylinder? that goes onto the back of the pedal assembly which is slipping every time I depress the pedal. Should there be some kind of clip that holds this rod in place on the back of the pedal or has something bent that would keep the rod in the right place. Any assistance is muchly appreciated! :) Thanks
  14. Wiring Faults ? 1.6Tdci

    Good morning, Merry Christmas I am new to this site but hope some one will offer insight into my problems. I have owned my CMax 1.6tdci since 2007, it has been a good car overall, I have done the usual injector seals at 70k and a year later still good. However the car in its life has always come up with various fault codes eg P0914 gearshift position circuit P138B glow plug module voltage P0514 battery temp circuit These faults will always reset using my notebook/F super lead, and do not seem to affect the running of the car. P0404 EGR has been constant for 3 + years and will not reset, but EGR can be heard cycling each time engine stops, it is clean and using a blanking plate can be seen to be operating, this also does not seem to affect the running of the car. A new fault has appeared which does ? affect the running and will not reset. initially P0204 cyl 4 open circuit, then after a 30 mile run P0304 cyl 4 misfire, this misfire is not detectable at all, but the the engine light is on and power range (turbo?limp home ?) is limited to 2200-3000 revs so although acceleration is a pain 80mph on motorway is no problem. Finally my questions are- Could all these faults be wiring related ? if so where to look, the car cost me £1262 for canbus faults 2 years ago at our local Ford dealer (included steering motor)this did not stop these codes appearing Could all these faults be linked to a faulty injector ? Any advice appreciated in advance Tony
  15. Hi Wondering if anyone could give some clarity on the blank plates next to the front and rear de-mist buttons? I plan to connect a jack extension lead from my glove box through the back of the dash and drill a hole through one of the blank plates and bring it through there, however once I opened the blank plates I unexpectedly found electrical connections to the back of them??? I believe one of them could be for airbags however was is the other one for or is it just left and right airbags? Thanks
  16. Hello - Could I have some help/advice please? I have a 09 Ford Focus 1.6TDCi which I bought 4 months ago with 66K on the clock, I was driving along the motorway (hour into my journey) and noticed when i went to overtake from 70mph i had no power like normal, felt like i had no turbo and it took ages to get to 80mph. The engine also sounded very loud as it revved up to 3,000rpm. No warning lights, no smoke. This continued until i got off the motorway, turned the ignition off and on immediately and it was fine, all power and back to normal. This lack of power was at low speeds and high speeds in all gears. Took it to a mechanic who replaced the EGR Valve as it was stuck shut. Drove it again for the first time and this power loss happened 10 minutes into my journey, again no warning signals or smoke just no power from the turbo. Again turned it off then on and it was fine. Spent 250 replacing the value so was pretty annoyed that it had been made worse!!! Any thoughts on what it could be? Cheers for any help.
  17. Egr Blanking...

    Evening all, My car's manufacturer warranty is due to end in the middle of June. I've heard good things regarding blanking off the EGR valve to prevent the intake of burnt exhaust gasses, and was wondering if it's worth doing it on my car? It's a Euro 5 DV6 engine, however I've heard that the Euro 5 engine is sensitive to having the EGR blanked off, so if it's going to cause the engine light to come on every 10 miles then I won't bother. It has roughly 50,000 miles on it so far, and might be looking at trading it in within a year or two, so maybe blanking it off for that time period might not be worth the hassle.
  18. Hey Guys and Gals, Stopped the car other day then restarted the engine a few minutes later, and got the "Engine Malfunction" message, no other lights, apart from the red "i" light, and the car was in limp mode; limiting to 3,000 RPM and taking an age to get there. This intermittently reappears, sometimes more often than others. The only sure way to get rid of it is to start moving, then restart the engine. This has not failed me yet, and the car drives perfect once it's running without the message. Message hasn't yet come on while driving. Plugged a code reader in today, and got: P0380 - Glow Plug/Heater Circuit A Cleared it, and it came back straight away. The car starts absolutely fine, and has done all winter (so it's not like something's been on the way out), although saying that it's parked indoors overnight so never gets that cold, and I realise it's warm now! What's the best place to start looking at with this? I realise the plugs are a nightmare to get to on these engines (stupid French thing!), so was wondering if there's any mileage in checking fuses/relays? I did find a 10A fuse listed as "Glow plug control module" or similar, and the car behaves the same with that in or out. It also hasn't blown, as I tested it in the horn fuse location! I've been googling all day but haven't come up with anything concrete in terms of what to do next. My local Ford's (OMC in Rochdale) seem disinterested as soon as I mention I've read the codes myself, so may be looking for another good garage in the Manchester/Rochdale area that don't want £100 off me just to tell me the same thing as I already know. Car has done just over 45,000 miles, and it's a 2008 mk 2.5. Any suggestions would be welcome! Jon
  19. Egr Sensor (S)

    Hello all, any help will be much appreciated. I'm wondering what sensor (s) are fitted to my car as we seem to have changed everything else without removing the stutter / loss of power.. Mine is an '09 registration 1.6 TDCi 109HP with an electrically operated egr valve ( 3 wires in one plug ) but I can't see any vacuum pipes connected to the valve. Does anyone know what sensors (and where they are located) send signals to the ECU and or EGR valve to control the valve's opening and closing? On earlier models with a vacuum operated EGR there was a MAP sensor with two vac pipes and a three pin plug fitted on the bulk head from what I can establish. According to what I've seen on YouTube the sensors appearance matches one on my car fixed to the battery covers which is connected to the DPF body, have taken a chance and disconnected that to see what new fault codes are created if any.There are demos there too showing how to test the sensor which is reputed to have been of pretty low quality on earlier cars. There was a new code but that rules this particular sensor out to my mind. The codes relating to the EGR are that it is 'open circuit' on high from memory but I can confirm the code number and wording later. Twice in the last couple of days my Engine Management Light has come on but not entered the car in to limp mode, the code created says that the EGR is closed and not opening. This EGR has only been on for a few thousand miles, it isn't an OEM part but the fault hasn't changed in terms of of the underlying stutter so it seems unlikely the valve itself is at fault and probably never was? Anyone familiar with the sensors please?
  20. Hello all, i'm new on this forum; just wanted to share a problem i was having with my focus and check to see if there was anyone who had encountered anything similar or might recognise the problem? So, the basic context: - i bought a 2005 ford focus 1.6tdci a couple of months ago with 130000miles on it. I soon realised that there was an oil/diesel leak around the injectors. took it back to the dealership, which spent quite some time removing various seals around the injectors, rocker cover and others. i'm told they spent some time over a few days digging around to find the source of the leak, but in any case, they found it to be an oil leak and fixed it (i've already asked them for a breakdown of the work and am waiting). However after leaving the garage, i found a new problem that i did not have before... The problem: - since the work was completed i have found that in any gear, from idle - 1200rpm, if the engine is under any load at all, it makes a clattering rattling sound that can be quite loud. the performance of the car doesn't seem to be affected, but it is quite loud and just doesn't sound healthy. The best way i can describe the sound, and this might seem silly, but if you imagine an unbalanced load in a washing machine in the spin cycle, and you put an oven tin on top of it so it jumps around - that is the chattering, clattering, rattling noise that the engine makes. Over 1200rpm, the sound dies off and the engine sounds normal and healthy. Any thoughts about this one? In all likelihood, i'll end up taking the long drive back, but just thought i'd check here to see if someone might be familiar and point me to a loose bolt (maybe dreaming here). Anyway, cheers, Billy.
  21. Focus Mk2 Bumpers

    Just wondering if anyone could tell me if this bumper would fit a 2006 focus mk2?
  22. Mk2.5 Diesel Stutter

    Evening all, I appear to have a bit of a strange problem with the diesel engine at the moment, it's not a massive issue but it odd nonetheless. When the outside air temperature is 5 degrees or less the engine sort of feels like it's misfiring in one or two cylinders. I have an example of when it happens: Start the car up, engine is idling fine no misfiring or surging Set off at up to max speed of 20mph to the point where I get to the end of the road (approx 450 yards) Trying to maintain the speed is difficult at around 1800rpm, because the engine and car surge back and forth as if the engine is misfiring Engine is fine by the time I have pulled out of the junction to join the main road I have noticed that taking it up to 2500rpm in 2nd after startup seems to clear the throat so to speak, and the engine stops surging, I have also noticed that it doesn't happen if I was to leave the engine idling for a minute or two. Could it just be that the temperature is so low and diesel engines are rough as hell when cold?
  23. Sound 2000 Blank Screen

    Hi all, I've been having some problems with the radio in my MK4 escort lately, I believe it's a sound 2000 model from 1990 or so. A previous owner decided to cut the original radio connectors off, I soldered them back on and it worked perfectly for about a week. But now I turn the radio on, it lights up but the screen is blank. It gets no radio signal either but it plays cassettes just fine. It doesn't even prompt for a code when it has been disconnected from the car which is something it did before. The same thing also happens with a spare radio of the same model I have lying around which leads me to believe it is something to do with the car itself. I checked all of the connections to the radio and they all seem to be fine. Does anyone have any suggestions to what is wrong or how to fix it? Thanks
  24. Mk2.5 Radio/nav Screen Blank

    Hi All, A couple of days ago, just when the freezing at night season started (in case it might be relevant), I noticed that when I open the car, the radio/nav/phone/etc. screen in the middle remains blank, whereas it usually shows the time. No change when pressing any button there, or when trying opening/starting the car again half a day later (it used to fix the going-mute-while-playing-an-mp3 issue). The car otherwise works normally, the small dashboard screen shows what it needs to. I checked the fuse (no 108 in the manual, in case it helps) but it was ok. Is there anything I can quickly do/check myself before taking it to the garage? Thanks in advance!
  25. Hi There!

    Hi all, I am currently driving in a 1.3 Fiesta Finesse which I have had for just over a year and I'm just looking for some advice on things to do to my fiesta to make look a bit cooler and general up keeping of my wee ford. Thanks for reading!