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Showing results for tags 'forums/DPF+1.8+TDCI'.

Found 306 results

  1. Hi all!

    Hi all New to the forums, having just purchased a Focus Zetec S 1.8 TDCi MK2. So hello all! I'm actually not a Ford newb, I've actually been prattling around in a 1.6 petrol 2003 Fiesta Ghia for 3 years, I thought the time was right for an upgrade. You can see photos of the Focus on my profile. Anyhow, it's good to be here and I'm sure I'll be around asking for some modification tips soon. :)
  2. Mileage

    Hi all,  I am looking at buying a 2005 zetec s (1.6 TDCI)  its on 127k miles with a part service history, is this high for the engine? Or are they a strong engine past that? Also what is most likely to need replacing soon in it (in general for a model of this age/mileage)  cheers! 
  3. Hi all. Having finally purchased a 'decent' car, it's about time I found some knowledge on how to clean it properly, and keep it in pristine condition. I've been driving a 2003 Fiesta Ghia around for the past three years so all the knowledge I have of car cleaning is a bottle of turtle wax shampoo, a bucket and a sponge. I'm after a step by step guide on products and technique. Can anyone point me in the right direction. Thanks :)
  4. Modifications: Spider Tuning, Black Fog Surrounds, Powder Coated Black Wheels, Black Centre Caps, K&N Filter, Wind Deflectors, Rally Flapz Mudflaps.    
  5. Brake kit

    Hi all, was just wondering to install st brakes on a tdci comfort. I've got a slight idea on doing it but not entirely sure, 
  6. Morning All, I have a Ford Focus 1.6TDCI 2012, bought April 2015 54k miles on the clock, 66k miles now. Yesterday i had a notification come up on my car which said "Engine Malfunction Service Now" (at this point the engine is vibrating a lot) i press OK and it then tells me "Hill Assist Not Available", what does this mean? i'm guessing the Hill Assist has nothing to do with the Engine Malfunction? Annoyingly my car is due for its Service and MOT with Ford on Friday. Let me know your thoughts? or if you've had this problem before?   Thanks
  7. Hi All, I thought I would try and make this more open to the public as Ford seem to be doing everything they can to not tell customers about this issue. I own a 58 plate (Registered 09) Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI Duratorq, since the car was new it has suffered from 2 issues. Issue 1 - While driving on the motorway the car will have intermittent hesitations when accelerating. This will usually happen then naturally allowing the car to decrease speed by taking your foot off the accelerator then applying it again. This can also happen when just cruising in 5th. Issue 2 - This cannot be replicated however randomly you can get a violent jolt forward with the error displayed on the dash "Engine Malfunction". The car will go into limp mode then when you pull over turn the ignition off, wait a minute and start again will be cleared and free to drive normally again. My car has been into Ford for this issue during its warranty period and after it expired to be told there were error codes relating to a particular injector however they were telling me all 4 needed replacing at £1500. The issue was so intermittent and could go months without it happening I have not yet had them replaced. I cover 350 miles a week commuting and can got weeks/months with no occurrences of this. Ford have never told me about a known issue with the injectors until recently when I took my car to the Ford dealership in Eastleigh, Hampshire. One of their service department told me they were aware of a known issue with a batch of injectors ending in the part number 3. While my car was in for diagnostics they advised all 4 of my injectors ended in 3 and would need replacing at guess what... you got it £1500. I argued that surely if this was a known issue with a bad batch Ford should replace these. They said not and the car is out of warranty so I will have to foot the bill. I asked whether there was any documentation on this however they said no, even their customer services director categorically told me nothing existed after checking with their service desk. I have since found out online and from help from the guys on this forum and other that there is in fact a TSB (technical service bulletin) released by Ford documenting which cars are affected and saying what I had been told about the injectors ending in 3. The TSB is TSB 27/2012 dated 14/05/12 and affects 1.8L Duratorq-TDCi (Lynx) engines between 2008/2009. It affects the Focus, Mondeo, C-Max, Transit connect and Tourneo. The title of the bulletin is "Excessive combustion noise and or hesitation during light load acceleration with the engine at high operating temperature". I don’t believe I can post the bulletin in full due to copyright however I can pm this to anyone interested. The bulletin states that there are PCM calibrations released to try and help the injector nozzle performance however Ford failed to tell me about the TSB or the PCM calibrations once in all the times my car was in for diagnostics. I have raised a complaint with Ford regarding this however they are unwilling to replace the parts at their cost, I have told them I am willing to pay for the labour however I don’t feel I should foot the bill for the parts given they were fitted from brand new faulty. I have so far got them to discount the price from £1500 to £1100 then recently a further 30% off this price. Still not happy as still leaves me with a £6-£700 bill to replace faulty parts they fitted. I would advised contacting Mark Ovende via this email address - He is the MD at Ford Motor Company. Mark will not respond however you will get a call back from the Ford Head Office. I was initially told they wouldn’t do anything however after continuous emails and phone called I have got them to discount the total initial quote by around 50%. It appears Ford are doing whatever they can to not tell customers about this issue so they have to pay out a fortune to replace parts that were not fit for purpose. Ford should issue a recall as this affects a lot of cars and is potentially dangerous. The fact they are not even telling customers there is a PCM update which could help is shocking, the go straight for the replacements instead. A free or £95 PCM update or £1500 to replace all 4 injectors....... disgusting. I want to try let as many people know about this as I can so they dont get lied to and forced into spending thousands when a PCM update might fix it. Ford should replace these parts at their cost not the customers regardless of warranty on the car. This whole situation has put me off buying another Ford especially from the dealerships I have dealt with. Regards Allister
  8. Hi Guys and Gals, I have owned my 2006 1.4 Diesel Fiesta for just shy of a year now. I commute almost 100 miles a day in it on the motorway, and average around the 60MPG mark (I reset the counter on the first of the month). Over the last few months I have noticed the average MPG start to slip. First to the mid 50s then the mid 40s. Something is obviously not right. This morning on my way to work, the average MPG dropped dramatically (by about 10MPG) when going up a steep hill on the A31. Once the road leveled out the MPG continued to fall down to around 33MPG. Eventually it started to climb again ending around 38. Driving home from work today, the counter started accelerating, 40, 45, 50, 55 by the time I got back it was about 58. Any idea what would cause such a rapid change in MPG? As I mentioned, I reset the counter once a month (on the first) to keep track of my fuel usage over the month. So the average was being taken over the last 1,400 miles. Full disclosure, the turbo has been whining for about 9 months now, think its finally giving out? Thanks for any help.
  9. 1.6 Tdci

    Hi All I have just bought a fiesta 1.6 tdci sport van 2010 I have a few questions and will be grateful for any help. Firstly is the 1.6 tdci a good engine? What if any are weak points? Can I upgrade the standard Bluetooth stereo easily? Is the cover over spare wheel the same as in the cars with a bit of polystyrene to the right of it?
  10. Hi, I own a 59 plate 2.0 TDCi TitX with 120k on the clock and whilst it is still a very tidy car I have a couple of concerns due to its age and mileage and was hoping for some good advice from the experts. Clutch has started to sip under heavy acceleration (especially up hills) so I presume that is on it's way out. Any idea of approx costs to fix? And what is the life rough life expectancy of the old Mk3 died at 160k and I'd rather replace the car than get the clutch and/or turbo done in the next 40k. Love the car but not enough to plug a couple of grand into repairs in the next year or so. Thanks very much. Neil
  11. Hi all, My 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi came up with an engine systems failure message today just coming off of a dual carriageway (70mph) accompanied by a red light next to the trip computer. I think it went into limp mode (severly reduced power, unwiling to rev much), so not good when you live at the top of a hill! Two other times when starting the car it has briefly displayed an error message (once it said "steering assist failure", and yesterday it came up with the same engine systems failure message"). Both times I have restarted the car and it disappeared. The car is a 2006 on an 06 plate, and has currently done 73500 miles. I bought it last may at 65000 miles, and it had a service just before I bought it. As it had just turned 6 years old/65000 miles, I'm presuming the DPF would have been changed then? Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Minnis
  12. Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a new daily and I shortlisted my model range to either a Focus or a Fiesta. Since it is going to be a daily car I want it to be a diesel. The diesel engines I'm opting for are either the 1.4 tdci (DLD 414) or 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Fiesta or the 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Focus. Now I know that these engines are not all done by Ford but in some websites I read that Ford use Peugeot (HDi) engines and in others I read that these engines where produced together with Peugeot. So what I am asking is, is it true that these engines are only done by Peugeot and Ford source the engines? or it is a new engine that Ford designed researched and produced together with Peugeot? Please any sources in your answers are very appreciated since I want to see whether Ford are sourcing PSA engines or developing them with PSA. Thank You :)
  13. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  14. So for a long while ive wanted to start a project, had all sorts of ideas, but recently i had an idea of doing a turbo conversion on something with a small engine 1.0 or 1.2. The only thing is im not too sure what turbo to use. I do have a 2.0 TDCI Mondeo (55 Plate) which i can take almost anything out of as the injectors failed (to the point where it doesnt even start with easy start anymore). But would such a small engine have enough power to spool a Mondeo turbo? I have also been made aware that a Diesel turbo cant withstand the heat of petrol fumes, is that true? If a mondeo turbo wont fit (which i wont be suprised at tbh) is anyone aware of a turbo that would? preferably with a small price tag :) Thank you!
  15. Hi, can someone tell me the normal temperatures of the 1.8 TDCI in a Mk2.5 Focus? But i mean the real temperature.. So not the gauge in the dash. I want the real temperature which you can read with a obd device.. Mine is (outside temp. ~0-5°C) at normal driving (60mph) between 65-75°C. Was wondering if this is normal (Dash-gauge shows as usual steady 88°C.. thought a broken thermostat would affect the gauge). Greetings
  16. The MIL light recently came on my 2008 Ford Focus 2.0 tdci. I used a ELM 327 OBDII interface (£10 from ebay) and app for the iphone to read the fault codes which came back as "P2263 Turbocharger/Super Charge Boost System Performance" and a couple of others (see attached photo below) . Fault code screen grab from the iPhone I noticed the MIL light came on shortly after servicing the car but for some reason I was fairly certain it was just a coincidence. When driving the car it noticeably had less power and fuel economy had dropped down to 18 mpg (normally around 35mpg for city driving). Also the MAF was showing around 3lb/min on the OBD read out but they were all the symptoms I noticed. OBD values for various parameters (before fault was fixed) I then read all available forums to find out what might have caused the fault could before attempting to fix it. From what I read the possible causes for a P2263 fault code where: Stuck/ faulty turbo actuator ERG value stuck open Faulty MAF sensor Split inlet pipe between turbo and inlet manifoldThe first thing I did was disconnect the MAF sensor, cleared the fault code and took it for a run. By disconnecting the MAF it makes the PCM use a default setting and if its the problem you should see the car run close to normal so I was expecting the power at least to return. After the run the car was still down on power and the MIL late came back on again a day later. Based on this I figured it was not the MAF sensor. MAF sensor location on the inlet manifold Next thing I did was check for a split inlet pipe between the turbo (in behind the engine and very hard to get at) and the inlet manifold. I got the wife to rev the car between 2,000 -3,000 rpm while I inspected all the hoses on both sides of the inter-cooler. This required taking the splash guard off and getting underneath the vehicle as well as looking in from under the bonnet to check all pipes. I found nothing that suggested a split pipe. All pipes looked to be in good condition and I couldn't hear or feel air rushing out anywhere. The next thing I did was inspect the EGR valve. It is not easily got to as it is behind at the back and on the right. You need to remove the plastic shroud that runs across the top at the base of the windscreen. You remove the wipers, pull off 6 clips, undo two screws and the whole thing comes off fairly easily. I took off the pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold to check the EGR function. It was very easy to do with a couple of 10 mm bolts holding on the pipe and a couple of clips. The EGR valve itself looks like it would be quite difficult to take off as some of the bolts holding it on are very hard to get at so I decided not to bother. Neither the pipe nor the EGR valve looked very caked up with soot which was surprising from all of the stories I have read and heard (the motor has done 85,000 miles). Both were relatively clean. On inspection I could see the EGR valve was closed so figured it couldn't be the problem. To be sure I got my wife to rev the car up a few times while inspecting and it open and shut as it is supposed to. It looked fine so I discounted it as the problem. While I had the pipe off I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in and around the valve then I blanked it off with a blanking plate (£4 from ebay) and put it back together. (I have attached some photos of the EGR valve and pipe). EGR valve location and inlet manifold connecting pipe Through the process of elimination I now only had the turbo left to inspect which I was dreading inspecting as it is so hard to get at as the turbo is low on the engine and right at the back. You can't even see it from the top from looking under the bonnet so you need to get down under the car to see it. I already had the splash guard off so I climbed underneath the car with a torch to inspect the turbo. (I have attached a few photos of the turbo itself and the actuator). Once again I got the wife to rev the car and realised the actuator was not working as nothing was moving. It has an electric wire plug which attached on top of the diaphragm which I figured was the sensor/actuator switch. There was also the diaphragm (vacuum operated) and a small vacuum pipe coming off it. The first thing I did was push the actuator gently a few times with a screw driver to see if it was stuck. It seem to move freely. I then suspected the vacuum hose that operates the diaphragm may have been split or had come off. I followed it back to a sort of union box that is located on the right of the engine at front between the airbox and engine. From there I followed it back to where it connects to the engine and gets it's vacuum which is a location on the right of the inlet manifold and is very close to the oil filter. On inspection I immediately found my problem. The pipe had come off the nipple causing the turbo actuator to get no vacuum. I must have knocked it off accidentally when replacing the oil filter during the service. I pushed it back on, cleared the engine fault codes and then started the car up. I immediately notice the intake manifold and MAF airflow readings where much higher. Below are some photos of the turbo, diaphragm and actuator (it was hard to get a good photo) The vacuum hoses that operate the turbo actuator located under the inlet manifold and close to the oil filter I put everything back together and then took the car for a drive on the motor way. I immediately noticed it's power was back and it was very responsive. I reset the mpg gauge and was immediately getting ~55mpg on the highway which is about average though it was a fairly short trip. I haven't checked city driving yet. So far it seems to be running how it should/ used to and I am very happy I diagnosed the fault and it only cost me a few hours of my time OBD values for various parameters (after fault was fixed) The moral of the story is to be very careful when changing the oil filter on the 2.0 tdci duratorq motor as found on the Ford Focus and various other cars. You can easily knock off the vacuum hose that operates the turbo actuator and this will lead to the MIL light coming one due to a P2263 fault code.
  17. Evening all! TLDR: My mk3 TDCI is producing an intermittent rattling noise on idling, which disappears when I raise the revs slightly by depressing the throttle. Appears to come from the right-hand side of the car, and seems to be external to the engine. Any theories? The long version: This week I needed (i.e. badly wanted!) a new car to replace my battered 20-year-old Corolla. I ended up with a mk3 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, 115PS, 2006-plate hatchback in green. Great cosmetic condition, 136,000 miles on the clock, with no service history apart from last MOT (March 15), which it passed with a couple of advisories, one of which is the noise I'm asking about here. Okay, so I took a risk, but the car looks great, is much newer and better-equipped than anything else I could have afforded, and cost me just £450! It has a couple of issues, but I figure it's worth spending a bit of money to keep this one running. My theory is that the first owner was a business driver/high miler, as the car is in great condition and the passenger and rear seats have hardly been used. It then seems to have spent about 8 months in the ownership of a young man from a family of traveller types who own horses and buy and sell vehicles - but who don't seem to have done much maintenance or servicing on this car (evidenced by the fact that it needed a thorough cleaning inside and out after purchase, but scrubbed up great!). I was relieved to learn that the mk3 TDCI has a timing chain rather than cambelts. However, it appears that one might still need to check the condition of the timing chain (£200 bill?), and the replacement of the auxiliary belts is due at 125,000 miles (also £200 bill?). As I mentioned in my summary above, there is this metallic rattling noise when idling. It's not there all the time - usually takes several seconds of sitting at traffic lights for it to begin, and it comes and goes. It can be relieved by raising the revs slightly using the accelerator pedal, and also seems to vanish when the clutch pedal is depressed. With the bonnet up, the noise seems to be coming from the area of the auxiliary belts on the right-hand end of the engine. Everything seems to be working; it's just this noise. The car stops and goes just fine and has plenty of oomph. Worth pointing out: the car pulls to the left noticeably, pretty much all the time. This has not been cured by having the wheels aligned or replacing the tyres worn by the misalignment. The only time it has not done this is on a surface with a right-hand camber. The left-hand pull also occurs if I brake sharply (once the car has shed most of its momentum; it then kind of "digs" to the left just before coming to a complete stop, with the steering wheel twisting to the left). Whilst driving I find myself compensating, and at times if feels as if I'm fighting the steering a little. I don't remember having anything like this or noticing heavy power steering on the brand new TDCi estate I hired for a week whilst living in Germany back in 2002, which I put about 1,500 miles on - I was very impressed by that car, and that's one reason why I bought my current Mondeo. So I'm wondering if the rattling is anything to do with the drive to the power steering pump which in turn might contributing to the steering issue. Clearly the car needs an oil and filter change which I will probably do myself. A friend (trained mechanic) drove behind me yesterday and said he saw the odd puff of smoke - not sure how much oil it's consuming but it's in the middle of the dipstick, albeit quite black. Anyway, I'd be happy to clear up the rattling on this thread and investigate the leftward drift separately. PS To avoid wasting time with comments about the risks I've taken, can we please just assume I've done all the self-beatings and sleepless nights about buying a car with no service history from dodgy people - I've got good reasons for not wanting to put any more time or energy into looking for a car, and would just like to know what I might need to do to get this running as sweetly as possible (or indeed if the issue is one I can ignore safely). Over to you! Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
  18. Another Newbie

    Hello fellow Ford Owners,Just Bought my second Focus a 2008 1.6 tdci,First impressions are good,couple of little niggly bits to sort out so I could do with all the knowledge that's on this forum,Had a 2002 1.8 estate with 230,000 miles on it ,good solid reliable car,never had any problems,so I cant wait to get started,
  19. Hi Guys, Twice now my engine has cut out for seemingly no reason and upon cutting out the oil and battery lights come on. Both times it's happened in cold weather, once with the engine at normal temperature and once with it cold. Anyone got any idea what this could be?
  20. Hi I am having a recurring issue with my Focus which I am having trouble diagnosing. I have a high mileage (168,000 miles) 2007 Mk 2 Focus 1.6tdci (110ps version) and I am experiencing a semi-regular issue under acceleration at 1900rpm where the engine will repeatedly start hesitating then return to normal. When the issue occurs it will happen consistently at 1900rpm in all gears and is accompanied by a squeaking/squealing noise. I assume as the RPM is always consistent it is relating to the turbo rather than the running gear or the gearbox, but I am struggling to find a consensus of opinion on other message board posts describing similar problems. I had the EGR valve replaced less than 5k miles ago due to sudden lack of power across the whole rev band, and an engine warning message pointing towards a stuck EGR valve. Having this change solved that issue. This issue did occur a couple of times before the EGR valve change, so when I had that replaced I hoped that would have been the cause, but today the issue has re-appeared. Any thoughts? Obviously I am not looking to spend a lot of money keeping it on the road at this point (looking at auto!trader, 170k seems very high mileage for this engine!), but a diagnosis to give me a better idea what I am looking at would be very handy! Thanks, Chris.
  21. Hi all, New to the owners club Was wondering if anyone has had the same issue or knows what the problem might be? Just bought a 2012 focus titanium x 2.0 tdci (163) which has only covered 5000 miles. When i press the throttle in to pull away the revs will shoot up to about 1500-2000 stay there long enough to pull away then once your moving will all of a sudden drop to about 900-1000 then will pick up no problem. Problem is it doesn't happen all of the time, but enough to make you think twice before pulling out of a junction or on to a roundabout. It has happened when the car is fully warmed up after driving 30 miles or so. Would like to get this sorted ASAP as the car is for my wife who is 8 months pregnant and keeps stalling it. Any help much appreciated!
  22. Hello! Got a fault on my 2005 focus 1.8 tdci, hoping someone on here can shed some light on the situation. I get engine systems fault on the dash along with lack of power and a chattering noise under load. I have checked all of the boost hoses for splits, I've checked the intercooler, I've cleaned the air flow sensors both on airbox and boost pipe. Its had recent diesel filter. The turbo appears to be working as it should be. When I plugged the car in the only two faults were turbocharger underboost and vehicle speed sensor. I'm out of ideas :( Any help would be much appreciated!
  23. Hey guys, So... got myself a nice little Alfa Romeo 147 1.9 JTD 16v I need to sell my much loved Fiesta 1.6 tdci 16v Zetec S, Where would be the best place to start as I have never sold a car before? I fear I will regret selling it but it needs to go for me to save for my house deposit... :( Thanks! Marcus :)
  24. 1.8 Tdci Ticking Noise

    hi, I have a 2006 1.8TDCI done about 82k. When the engine reaches its normal temp an annoying ticking noise appears, more noticably inside the car, recently had a cam belt and pulley change. I have tried a flush, oil and filter change with no joy. There is no other running problems, runs sweet. Any body had a similar problem?
  25. Service Manual

    Hello everybody, I'm Anthony from Croatia my dear wife was driving our Focus C-max 1.6 Tdci until she came in front of a huge puddle (60m long)....she stoped...and then decided she can drive through it. She was driving for 50 m very slowly and then the car when Dead. Yes the engine pulled water and it was water shocked. I cleaned everything, air intake, changed engine oil 2 times with filter. The engine started but it lost 30% of power and it makes white smoke in high rpm. So I need to open the engine, yes myself and my brother (we work with outboards and we own several cars so we have to maintain them as well to be able to keep them). I need a service manual for this engine or car model in order to continue. If anyone can help me I would be very gratefull and in return will place photos & descripitons of the work on the forum.