AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/Egr+valve+electric+help'.

Found 65 results

  1. I was wondering about making my Ford Fiesta Black Edition have a louder blow off valve noise but... I am worried that my engine warning light will come up and my car may go into "LIMP MODE". Also what blow off valves fit the fiesta black edition???  Ben_140
  2. Hi guys,  I'm basically looking to convert my windows from manual to electric on my Ford Fiesta 2003.  I've recently purchased the car only because the mileage is very low and thought it can last me a while whilst I save up for an upgrade.  I've seen some universal kits and even tutorials on how to fit this. The only issue I have is fitting it on is easy, however how would I be able to actually power them up?  Would it be easier just to buy new doors/cards? Then again the wiring is an issue, can a garage just connect them up?  I would leave it, however it's something I'd like to definitely invest some money (not enough to buy a car) and time in. 
  3. Hi. Can someone please help.....  I have a 1.4 Fiesta diesel 60 plate. The engine management light came on a week or so ago and when it was plugged in it showed a MAF problem. I bought a new one from GMF and had it fitted but the problem still showed up. I have then taken one off a working car and fitted it but again the problem shows up?????? The car is going well until you hit any sort of hill and looses power.....? 
  4. Hi guys,  new on here so any help i sappreciated. Bought a Focus st and few minor issues Firstly electric mirrors do not work at all Secondly interior lights do not come on when i open the doors (switch is in correct position) Rear interior lights do not come on either at all, even when i switch on manually (fitted new bulbs) 12volt also doesnt work (prob just a fuse though) Thanks for the help  
  5. Hi all, Going to attempt to install this bad boy in the Fiesta this weekend in order to regain heating in the cabin! (I've had to stop using the car it's so cold!). From what I understand it is a very good idea to drain the coolant out first so that the pipes and valve aren't full of coolant when you take them off. Is it enough to disconnect the bottom rad hose, empty coolant into a container etc and then flush through with a garden hose, or should I take the engine block drain plug out too? Then to refill, pour in the coolant expansion tank and squeeze hoses to make sure there's no air locks? I've found TK42138's channel on Youtube very helpful as he has video'd most stages of the process but just want to make sure I'm aware of everything I need to be before I empty my system of coolant and get into any difficulties filling it back up again! I can take pics of my process too if people would be interested in a visual step by step? Cheers Tom  
  6. Fiesta Mirror Swap

    Can some one help please. Daughter had her drivers 59 plate fiesta electric (non power fold) mirror totalled. Got second hand replacement but its for powerfold. Wiring plug different. Whats the best way to fit?
  7. Both my mirrors don't fold in or out when locking/unlocking the car but i can hear the motors working away and no movement. The mirror glass is adjustable on both sides via the control knob so i don't think its the fuse. In order for me to reset them i need to move them but they wont budge in or out at all for me to do so. If i really put all my effort in,it would probably break the mirror mountings which i don't want to do. Luckily they are stuck in a position where i can see clearly the traffic behind me whilst driving but would love for them to work instead of hearing mirror motor noises and then nothing. This is different car which i bought in a rush (same spec as mine) for my daughter so forgot to check the mirrors when viewing/testing it. So its been like this since we bought it and have never seen them folding in or out. Any ideas where i should start.
  8. The MIL light recently came on my 2008 Ford Focus 2.0 tdci. I used a ELM 327 OBDII interface (£10 from ebay) and app for the iphone to read the fault codes which came back as "P2263 Turbocharger/Super Charge Boost System Performance" and a couple of others (see attached photo below) . Fault code screen grab from the iPhone I noticed the MIL light came on shortly after servicing the car but for some reason I was fairly certain it was just a coincidence. When driving the car it noticeably had less power and fuel economy had dropped down to 18 mpg (normally around 35mpg for city driving). Also the MAF was showing around 3lb/min on the OBD read out but they were all the symptoms I noticed. OBD values for various parameters (before fault was fixed) I then read all available forums to find out what might have caused the fault could before attempting to fix it. From what I read the possible causes for a P2263 fault code where: Stuck/ faulty turbo actuator ERG value stuck open Faulty MAF sensor Split inlet pipe between turbo and inlet manifoldThe first thing I did was disconnect the MAF sensor, cleared the fault code and took it for a run. By disconnecting the MAF it makes the PCM use a default setting and if its the problem you should see the car run close to normal so I was expecting the power at least to return. After the run the car was still down on power and the MIL late came back on again a day later. Based on this I figured it was not the MAF sensor. MAF sensor location on the inlet manifold Next thing I did was check for a split inlet pipe between the turbo (in behind the engine and very hard to get at) and the inlet manifold. I got the wife to rev the car between 2,000 -3,000 rpm while I inspected all the hoses on both sides of the inter-cooler. This required taking the splash guard off and getting underneath the vehicle as well as looking in from under the bonnet to check all pipes. I found nothing that suggested a split pipe. All pipes looked to be in good condition and I couldn't hear or feel air rushing out anywhere. The next thing I did was inspect the EGR valve. It is not easily got to as it is behind at the back and on the right. You need to remove the plastic shroud that runs across the top at the base of the windscreen. You remove the wipers, pull off 6 clips, undo two screws and the whole thing comes off fairly easily. I took off the pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold to check the EGR function. It was very easy to do with a couple of 10 mm bolts holding on the pipe and a couple of clips. The EGR valve itself looks like it would be quite difficult to take off as some of the bolts holding it on are very hard to get at so I decided not to bother. Neither the pipe nor the EGR valve looked very caked up with soot which was surprising from all of the stories I have read and heard (the motor has done 85,000 miles). Both were relatively clean. On inspection I could see the EGR valve was closed so figured it couldn't be the problem. To be sure I got my wife to rev the car up a few times while inspecting and it open and shut as it is supposed to. It looked fine so I discounted it as the problem. While I had the pipe off I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in and around the valve then I blanked it off with a blanking plate (£4 from ebay) and put it back together. (I have attached some photos of the EGR valve and pipe). EGR valve location and inlet manifold connecting pipe Through the process of elimination I now only had the turbo left to inspect which I was dreading inspecting as it is so hard to get at as the turbo is low on the engine and right at the back. You can't even see it from the top from looking under the bonnet so you need to get down under the car to see it. I already had the splash guard off so I climbed underneath the car with a torch to inspect the turbo. (I have attached a few photos of the turbo itself and the actuator). Once again I got the wife to rev the car and realised the actuator was not working as nothing was moving. It has an electric wire plug which attached on top of the diaphragm which I figured was the sensor/actuator switch. There was also the diaphragm (vacuum operated) and a small vacuum pipe coming off it. The first thing I did was push the actuator gently a few times with a screw driver to see if it was stuck. It seem to move freely. I then suspected the vacuum hose that operates the diaphragm may have been split or had come off. I followed it back to a sort of union box that is located on the right of the engine at front between the airbox and engine. From there I followed it back to where it connects to the engine and gets it's vacuum which is a location on the right of the inlet manifold and is very close to the oil filter. On inspection I immediately found my problem. The pipe had come off the nipple causing the turbo actuator to get no vacuum. I must have knocked it off accidentally when replacing the oil filter during the service. I pushed it back on, cleared the engine fault codes and then started the car up. I immediately notice the intake manifold and MAF airflow readings where much higher. Below are some photos of the turbo, diaphragm and actuator (it was hard to get a good photo) The vacuum hoses that operate the turbo actuator located under the inlet manifold and close to the oil filter I put everything back together and then took the car for a drive on the motor way. I immediately noticed it's power was back and it was very responsive. I reset the mpg gauge and was immediately getting ~55mpg on the highway which is about average though it was a fairly short trip. I haven't checked city driving yet. So far it seems to be running how it should/ used to and I am very happy I diagnosed the fault and it only cost me a few hours of my time OBD values for various parameters (after fault was fixed) The moral of the story is to be very careful when changing the oil filter on the 2.0 tdci duratorq motor as found on the Ford Focus and various other cars. You can easily knock off the vacuum hose that operates the turbo actuator and this will lead to the MIL light coming one due to a P2263 fault code.
  9. The other half has an old focus (02 plate) and the O/S/F electric window has gained a mind of its own. It will go down and usually refuse to go back up. When it does it might stop and then the next 'up' press will mysteriously send it back down again. On other occasions it will work fine. As far as I know there is only a switch and a motor in the door and the motor is working obviously so that would mean a switch right? But it seems to do it when it's damp which might suggest that its water getting into the motor connection. Has anybody else had this problem?
  10. Hi Guys, I have 2 problems to which I hope here can help me sort and I hope this thread might help someone else. I have a Ford Focus MK1 1.6 Zetec (engine pictured below). My problem No.1 is it idle's on the 700-750rpm line and kinda shakes the cabin more than it should, it feels wrong and sometimes hunts for idle. Problem No.2 when i turn things like the light, blowers and front/back heated windscreen the revs drop to about 650 and shake the car considerable more to a point where you think it might stall but never does. Too be clear, my car does not have a MAF sensor. I have changed: - Idle valve sensore - Throttle position sensor - Coil Pack and leads I have checked: - PVC/breather valve hoses into the T and all is good - All hoses involved in air intake for a potential vacuum leak. I also used carb cleaner to spray every area to see if revs increase with no luck. - Battery/alternator connections wiggled and everything. - Earth connections cleaned. At the moment I can't find anything with anything but I did check battery voltage at Idle. Voltage at idle - 14.3V Voltage at idle with front electric windscreen heater on - 12.5V Not sure if this is a problem as when I rev the car the voltage increases with the heaters/lights on from 12.5V plus past 14V, any one have a view on this? Could the culprit be all along the alternator? Next actions - Apparently the PCV valve can cause this if broke, anyone have a view on this? Im also gonna do a ECU reset. Disconnect batt for 20 mins, let it idle for 20 mins then drive for 5 miles. I heard this works. One last thing is Ford do a ECU update to sort this out people say, is this BULL???? One thing to add my exhaust does have a blow but i don't think this will cause any of the above. If anyone has any ideas/experiences or tips please share I would be very appreciative. Thanks Jono ADDED: Forgot to say my car says there are no fault codes stored.
  11. Mk5 Heat Problem

    I've heard and read that fiesta MK4 and MK5s can have a heat problem with either hot or cold constantly feeding through and not being able to change the temperature. Mine is doing the exact same. It's feeding through constant hot air. After having read a solution, I thought it could be a thermostat problem. The guy I bought the car from told me he'd already changed that not so long before I bought the car and it was bought in March. I then read it could be a heater control valve problem. I changed the heater control valve and it worked! For a day or two... No I'm slightly stumped as to what next to look for. I don't believe it could be the matrix. I don't think there is a blockage anywhere otherwise it wouldn't have worked as soon as it was swapped. I'm reluctant to think its the connection as I checked that while swapping over the HCV and it seemed OK. Plus, it wasn't all that long ago. There's definitely no Leaks. The head gasket hasn't gone and its not on its way out. A few people had mentioned the heater control panel might be an issue. The fans are working on all settings but there's no wires running from the temperature knob. It's all running from the fan switch, the bottom of the PCB board and the 12v power supply. I don't think it could be the HCP neither becauxe it was working g when the HCV was swapped over. And I'm sure the wiring is normal anyhow. Has anyone got any ideas? I've searched all over this forum and I can't seem to find the answer. I'd rather not take it tons mechanic and part with my money haha. Thanks guys.
  12. Dump Valve Or Not ?

    got a 56 plate St and wondering if I should put a dump valve on it. Will they work with a standard engine and turbo ? If I do get then do I need other bits or do they go in same place as current one ?
  13. Hot Electric Window Buttons..?

    Hey Ford Owners Club, I bought a 1996 Fiesta Saphire last week or so for a very decent price considering the engine was replaced at 48,000 miles and has only done 30,000 since. However the locks were dodgy which I was told but have been working ok up until today when my luck ran out and I had to try and break into my car and then when that didn't work, call the AA to come and break into my car... During all of this the immobiliser got activated but we managed to get the windows down by connecting his power supply up to mine to get the ignition on and shoving a stick through the wedged open door. The locks went super spazzy and so we had to take the Central locking fuse out. Anyway, it doesn't seem that much has been affected thankfully other than I have just done a 45 minute journey and I noticed that the electric window buttons were incredibly hot. It was night so I wasn't using them so not like they had any reason whatsoever to get so hot and distressed. I checked under the hood and the engine also seemed very hot however my air conditioning still came out cool and didn't idicate any unusual behaviour to me. I have taken it on several journeys of around this length or longer since I've had it and not noticed any problems at all. It could be that this was happening before and I didn't notice but I can't help but feel that it's only happening because of the problems earlier on in the day... I'm a bit concerned so hoping someone might know what to do or suggest to help. Guessing this is the right place to ask! Thanks, Zak
  14. Please don't waste your money and buy from ebay I made this mistake buy from Fords Even my car is old it is reregistered disabled so Fords gave me a price then I asked for the 20% V.A.T off man looked confused as long as the car is reregistered disabled and I buy the part from Fords it is exempt from the 20% and presto got the 20% off Car is nice and cold again will never buy from ebay again but did get my money back from the seller in full
  15. Electric Window Fault

    Hey Guys, Today after work my Driver Side Window stopped working (My Window was down). I thought it had fallen off the runner but on inspection it seems to be the motor. Taped the window up with duct tape as Its in a secure place, Watched by CCTV upon guidance from the RAC. Taking it into a Garage tomorrow morning first thing to get it checked over. I know this particular MK6 Has had this fault occur on both driver and passenger sides in the past. Hopefully it gets sorted.
  16. Electrics Issue

    tough one, focus 1.6 petrol climate change 2005 , fault , hand brake light comes on, and then the interior indication signal stops working along with outside temp ,fault sometimes resets itself
  17. Not one of my interior lights are working, non of them except the ones in the doors under the handle. I'm confused! And also my electric windows, you have one click on the switch where you can go down or up and the next click they go up or down on their own, it's that one that isn't working! I've got to hold it now. I don't know what's wrong. Please help!!!
  18. Hi all, Well where to start lol Welcome to my new adventure, I've purchased a 2000 build Toyota Corolla Levin BZR AE-111 Coupé Engine is a 20 valve VT-i Twin cam 1598cc Naturally aspirated engine also known as "the black top" BHP: 168 Top speed? I need a bigger speedo as it only goes to 180kph and I went past that in 4th gear Gear box is a 6 speed short shift manual transmission with a limited slip diferental, Suspension is a unique super strut system, don't feel your hanging on corners it sticks to the road, Personnaly I prefer to hang because then I know how hard I can push it before slip, But with super strut suspension it doesn't do body roll. Brakes: its got twin pot brakes up front and single pot caliper with discs on the rear, Abs and power steering. It started life in Japan in 2000 after 9 years of Japanese ownership and was shipped to Ireland, Where the transmission was replaced by a manual bzr box, but there's still something to do with an automatic neutral sensor thing in the car, but I'll discuss that later It was imported by a fellow from Wicklow who registered it and kept it for 2 years before selling the seller I purchased from yesterday who had it for almost two years aswell. Here are some pictures
  19. Hi guys, When I put my windows up (driver side or passenger side) and start driving - they seem to make a crackling sound as if it is too tight? I have recently got a new Fiesta - the same thing happened on my previous one. Not sure if this is something that everyone is experiencing or not? Let me know if you have & you have found a cure! I have noticed it is worst in the heat :/ Many thanks
  20. Egr Problem

    Hello, My engine smoke during acceleration.After diagnoses found that EGR vlave is causing this problem.So i replaced it and bought new one from this website Thanks
  21. Hi, Recently purchased some electric mirrors from a 2006 Fiesta ST that I planned to place on my 2003 Fiesta Zetec. I currently have manual mirrors. I have purchased wiring loom for the conversion. Any recommend instructions?? Thanks!! :)
  22. Ford Fiesta - Windows

    Hi guys, Just got the 2015 Ford Fiesta Zetec - absolutely loving it! :) I have a few friends who tell me if the windows are open when I lock the car using the remote, the windows will go up by themselves and the car will lock as normal - if that makes any sense? Does anybody else know anything about this or if it is possible? Thanks guys! :D Connor
  23. Electric Window Issue

    New here, so hello to all. I bought a 2007 mk6 couple of weeks ago, everything fine with it apart from a few days ago the electric window on driver side, the cable snapped by the sounds of it. Window wont go up or down but the motor still works, hence reason think the cable has gone. Seen plenty of people say on line its easy enough to do, fair enough, but a mate of mine and couple of forums say you need to remove the door lock to get the inner panel off to get to everything. Seems a bit much that i think. Can anyone shed some light on this or point me in the right direction? Cheers
  24. Good evening all, I have a 2008 Focus ST2 (facelift model) It has the Mountune MR290 Pack on it. Everything has been great, recently had a Blow Off Valve fitted, this is where the issue has started. When I'm driving it easy and i get to approx 2800 rpm the engine feels like it retards a little bit, then everything goes back to normal once i pass this rpm. The place where i bought the Forge valve from said it was an issue with the focus when its the exact point that the vacuum changes from negative to positive pressure (i may have that the wrong way around but I'm sure you all will know) I do love the sound of the car and i think that the blow off valve makes it that little bit better, but can't live with this 'miss' every time I'm driving the car steady. Can anyone offer any advice please, other than boot it everywhere :-) Many Thanks in advance Glen
  25. Hi, I hope someone can shed some light on this. I have a Focus 2.0TDCI CC, 2008 57 plate. The car had a flat battery a few days ago and has developed lots of electrical faults since, such as: Interior light not working, rear window demist not working but quick clear front demist is ok, one touch windows not working, as a convertible it has an electric boot fastener when you close it which isn't working either. All these things were ok before the flat battery. Since getting the car in June '14 its had a fault which is still the same. This fault is when the car is started the dash lights, reverse light, radio & electric roof don't work for approx 30 seconds while the engine management light and heater plug light stay on for the same 30 seconds. I don't know if this old fault is connected with the new fault. Please help, I have no idea what to do next with this...... Thank you