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Showing results for tags 'forums/Engine+systems+failure'.

Found 288 results

  1. Hi guys, new to this forum, just signed up. I'm having trouble with my new fiesta ST, I picked it up on the 29th of January 2016 - should add it's bought on PCP - And it's got an irregular knocking coming from the engine ( over the tapping of the injectors ) I've already took the car back to the ford dealership that I bought it from and they admitted they could hear it also and they changed the oil from 5w30 to 0w40. This hasn't cured the problem and further more I've learned that this is because there are incorrect machining tolerances in the bottom end of the engine? This information came from ford techs over different forums. They say that ford won't tell you this and they just change the oil. Now I have the car booked back into ford this coming Tuesday (Feb 16th) as I'm not happy with the results. I've contacted ford direct via phone and email, and the ford finance also, this is to cover myself with evidence as they have opened up a case.  The dealership have been nothing but nice to me, for example there aren't any courtesy cars available so the manager is giving me his and paying for all insurance costs.  Although im aware if this is the problem I have then the only solution is an engine swap, or ultimately a car swap. I'd like to know what my chances are or being successful? I've told the dealership if I reject that I'd be more than happy for a swap replacement as they have been spot on with me from day one and I don't want to burn any bridges so to speak. But if it needs done I'll be stamping my feet.  Thanks in advance! 
  2. Hi all, So, I've just recently checked my engine over, no problem there, until I noticed a pipe was hanging down from the engine. So far I've determined it's the cold air intake, that the joint that held the pipe to the front grate (or wherever the intake actually draws from) has broken partially - the piece still slides in to the appropriately shaped gap, but it will not stay in place. It's my belief that a piece of plastic that should keep it connected on the top of the intake-to-pipe assembly (I'm sorry, I don't know if there's a proper name for it) just wore out over time. So, that's the situation. my questions three are these; - I understand a faulty air intake can have an effect on fuel economy and engine performance, would it affect this much if it were left hanging down as it has been? - Given that I have to reattach it and the standard fitting is failing to hold in place properly, would it simply be a case of supergluing it back into place or is there something more appropriate for fixing it? - how long would any such repairs last?   Any help you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  3. Engine revving

    I have 2004 Ford Ka, 1.3   engine is revving by itself when idle. engine management is on. engine sounds like its struggling to breath (intermittent)   once I drive the car, it can drive steadily without my foot on the accelerator!!.diagnostics suggested 02 sensor. been advised to put fuel treatment in it the car is getting a little unnerving to drive at times    
  4. A few months back, my 10 reg Focus 1.6Tdci went into turbo overdrive, which I had to stop by stalling it. It was recovered to our local Halfords garage. They said too much oil in engine had bypassed seals and got into turbo with turbo then running on the oil. They dismantled the turbo system and cleaned it all out. Replaced filter etc. They had to fit a new CDPF which cost me an arm and a leg. They instructed me on how to drive it to regen the new CDPF, but that didn't work. They took it to the local Ford dealership who did a forced regen. Having got the car back, I noticed that at low revs in low gears (around 1100 to 1500 rpm in 2nd and 3rd), the engine would hesitate. I lived with this and the car behaved normally otherwise. However, just over a week ago, on the way to work, the alarm sounded and a message came up saying "ENGINE MALFUNCTION". I found that this reset by turning the engine off, but came back after driving again for about 15 or 20 minutes. Before I had chance to take to the Ford dealership, I had an extra fault arise with the little orange engine symbol lighting up. This didn't go away with restarting the engine, so I took it into the dealership. They managed to clear the orange engine light then suggested I took it for a drive to see if it was OK, but after about 20 minutes, the "ENGINE MALFUNCTION" message came up again. I took it back to the dealership for them to investigate. That was Tuesday, it's now Friday and they still haven't come up with an answer.
  5. Hi All, My epic search for an S-Max continues, have seen some decent examples but all seem a bit overpriced (good popular car I guess) We have seen a 2.0 TDCi 115bhp model on a 10 plate My question is what is the difference between this and a 140bhp model?  Is it the same engine just mapped differently (ie could it be remapped)? Thx In Advance
  6. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would.   TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help?   Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  7. Hi, Some funny symptoms on my 56 plate Mk2 Focus. It's always done this to some extent but seems to have got a lot worse in the past 2 years since the cambelt and the clutch were replaced. * Clicking/rattling sound when under engine load (going up hill or accelerating hard or with a heavy car) * Sound like it's either coming from the engine bay or from near the front of the car around the clutch area * Seems to happen mostly in 3rd and 4th and 5th gears when hitting above 2,000 rpm until about 4,000 when putting on a fair amount of gas. * Occasionally under these conditions get a much louder rhythmical clicking (which the video below shows), but normally is irregular and sounds mechanical/metal/clicking (can't seem to get this to show up on a video, but can hear inside the cabin). It is def not any under-car heat shield rattles (these are all checked and speedbolted) I think it could be the engine pinking, but have one eye on the either the clutch or some other aspect of the engine- is it even possible for the clutch to be clicking without slipping? What do people think - anything similar experienced?
  8. engine system fault

    Hi all   i hope someone can help. i have a Ford C-Max, 2007 reg, 1.6 petrol engine. today the car has come up with a fault "engine system fault", then says "speed limited mode", and a red light is on. can anyone shed any light onto this please? from what I've read elsewhere this problem is quite serious and never seems to go away! need advice and help please.   thanks. 
  9. Morning All, I have a Ford Focus 1.6TDCI 2012, bought April 2015 54k miles on the clock, 66k miles now. Yesterday i had a notification come up on my car which said "Engine Malfunction Service Now" (at this point the engine is vibrating a lot) i press OK and it then tells me "Hill Assist Not Available", what does this mean? i'm guessing the Hill Assist has nothing to do with the Engine Malfunction? Annoyingly my car is due for its Service and MOT with Ford on Friday. Let me know your thoughts? or if you've had this problem before?   Thanks
  10. Hi guys I'm new to this forum. In all honesty I've just joined as I've seen this club after searching on Google... I have a 2008 fiesta style with 73000 on the clock. Have recently noticed a loud large knock on the engine. Car was stripped, timing belt etc and was told the knock is coming from the engine itself. Nobody knows what it is or why without doing an engine strip and diagnostic. Was told possibly oil pump, diesel pump or bottom of engine? Please can anybody advise as I don't have a clue about any of this or know what to do. Thanks. Saz
  11. Ford Fiesta Problem!!! Help

    Hellooo, I have a 1.4 diesel ford fiesta, which is 10 years old now. Recently it's started to cut off randomly, it feels as if the engine goes off for a couple seconds and then starts again. The battery light and the engine light comes on when doing this, but only for a second. It tends to do this when in 5th gear at around 50mph-60mph, which is around 2000rpm. The car has been in a garage all week and no fault comes up! Also, every now and again the 'transmission light'? (i think) comes on, (looks like a cog with a ! in) and goes into limp mode, where is makes it impossible to go over 5mph and very jumpy. Once i switch the car off and on again it goes fine. Has anyone had this problem before? Thanks in advance!
  12. Hi all, My 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi came up with an engine systems failure message today just coming off of a dual carriageway (70mph) accompanied by a red light next to the trip computer. I think it went into limp mode (severly reduced power, unwiling to rev much), so not good when you live at the top of a hill! Two other times when starting the car it has briefly displayed an error message (once it said "steering assist failure", and yesterday it came up with the same engine systems failure message"). Both times I have restarted the car and it disappeared. The car is a 2006 on an 06 plate, and has currently done 73500 miles. I bought it last may at 65000 miles, and it had a service just before I bought it. As it had just turned 6 years old/65000 miles, I'm presuming the DPF would have been changed then? Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Minnis
  13. Help

    Tight so basically, recently when I change gear slowly and have a little bit of gas on, there's a really loud squeaking/screeching sound from what sounds like my clutch. Does anyone know what this is or if it's a bad thing? Thanks
  14. Help

    Tight so basically, recently when I change gear slowly and have a little bit of gas on, there's a really loud squeaking/screeching sound from what sounds like my clutch. Does anyone know what this is or if it's a bad thing? Thanks
  15. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete
  16. Engine Cut Out After Starting

    Hi, this is my first posting on here, although I have followed the site for several years for advice. I have a 2006 Ford Focus Sport Tdci purchased on finance 10 months ago. The 3 month warranty has already expired, and I have 26 more payments to make before I own the car outright. For the past 10 months this car has worked fine, with no issues at all, and sailed through the MOT 3 months ago. Yesterday morning I did what I always do. I turned the ignition key to power up the car, without starting the engine. I waited the second or two for the glow plug light to go off, then started the ignition. The engine started immediately. I put the car in reverse, and just as I lifted my foot off the clutch to reverse off my drive the engine cut out. I put the car in neutral and attempted to restart the engine. This took about 5-10 seconds of whirring before the engine kicked in. The car worked fine for my 35 mile journey, and was fine 10 hours later when I returned to my car for my 35 mile journey home. This morning I again did the same thing. The engine cut out again at the same moment. This time it took 4-5 goes to get the engine started again, but on this occasion the dashboard showed some warning lights. The glow plug light came on for a few seconds, as did the engine management light. The power train light stayed on until the engine started. I revved the engine, got a small cloud of light grey smoke from the exhaust and the car started fine. I drove it only half a mile, turned off the engine for 5 minutes the restarted, and it was fine. No warning lights. Any ideas on the problem and expected cost would be appreciated. I'm guessing the garage or the finance company will not take liability.
  17. I have a 2005 Mk2 Focus 1.6 tdci Sometimes on starting I get a message saying "steering assist failure" followed by "engine systems fault" and then the engine won't turn. A Ford mechanic told me to slap the dash board. It works! It has even happened while driving and again a slap fixes it. Please can someone tell me what I can do to get a proper solution? Thanks
  18. Hi, I got an engine system fault error pop up on the instrument cluster with the red light about 2 weeks ago and it went into limp mode. I took it to kwik fit and their bosch reader couldn't find any error codes. The error went away on its own and I was back out of limp mode. But the error is back! I now have an OBD cable and tried out forscan, it has picked up multiple DTC errors but I am unsure which one is causing the engine system fault (if any) and which faults are most severe, could someone have a look at the attached PDF and give me some advice? One thing that does look like it needs replacing is the battery? For extra info: Mileage: 100,000 miles EGR blanked Fuel and air filter at ~85k Oil change ~97k Euro 4 - DPF (according to ETIS) EDIT: removed attached codes as these are from the demo mode of forscan
  19. Hello everyone! I have bought a ford focus 8/2008 (1600cc, SIDA motor) since this October and I am generally satisfied. But... there is a but .... In the last 10 days I have been facing the following problem: It happened three times that I tried to start the engine and I got an error message on the display "Engine malfunction" and the engine was not starting. Along with the error message there was also a sound warning. After several times that I opened/closed the key switch, I no longer saw that message and the engine started. This message also appeared once when i was on the road, followed by a second message "acceleration reduced". It was like it went to "safe mode". I tried also with the second key without any luck. It seems that it is not an immobilizer issue. I went to a car mechanic and during diagnostic check I got these errors: u0001 - High Speed ​​CAN Communication Bus u0155 - Lost communication with instrument panel p1260 - Theft detected, vehicle immobilised Mechanic said that he needs to investigate it further. Do you have any ideas guys? Did these messages appeared to anyone of you ? Most of the forums say that it may be the instrumental cluster but i want to be sure before i change it. PS: When i bought the car (This October) I put a new battery. I dont know if the error messages are related to this fact. Thanks, Nick
  20. Hi all, i have been looking through the forums to try and figure out what has happened to my focus, i bought a tuning box from a tdi tuning company, it came with a money back guarantee which i have had to use, after i put the box on the car was using a hell of a lot more fuel, i mean a lot - without any noticeable power gains, so after a few days i decided it wasn't for me, however ever since i installed it, and now even more so since i removed the box my car loses power, glow plug light flashes and the car dies! i turn the ignition off and on and away it goes. the car has had a fully synthetic oil change 3 months ago along with all filters, coolant etc. I removed the cam sensor as advised on other posts here but i cant really tell by looking at it if its ok. I also last month cleaned the egr and maf sensor. im hoping this dam tuning box hasnt messed up the injectors or fuel pump, as when i restarted the car after it died the other night there was a horrible whining coming from the engine bay!! this went away as i stopped the car straight away. also im thinking of getting it on a diagnostics machine but surely there wont be any codes if the problem is intermittent? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, cheers in advance!!
  21. Hello! Got a fault on my 2005 focus 1.8 tdci, hoping someone on here can shed some light on the situation. I get engine systems fault on the dash along with lack of power and a chattering noise under load. I have checked all of the boost hoses for splits, I've checked the intercooler, I've cleaned the air flow sensors both on airbox and boost pipe. Its had recent diesel filter. The turbo appears to be working as it should be. When I plugged the car in the only two faults were turbocharger underboost and vehicle speed sensor. I'm out of ideas :( Any help would be much appreciated!
  22. S Max Fault Code Help?

    Hi all just looking for some info on my s max purchased 9 weeks ago love the car just having few teething problems and starting to aggravate me had a fault code come up c07480 or 7480 not sure as took a pic and its not completely clear, but been getting engine malfunction appear with esp light staying on soon as engines off it goes, any advice would be appreciated Thanks Grant
  23. Ignition Coil Failure

    Hi I've recently replaced my ignition coil on my mk6 fiesta due to misfiring on cylinder 1 after looking at the old coil u could tell it was blown on cylinder 1 port but now after replacing the coil cylinder 1 is misfiring again replaced leads and plugs but it's just not spark for cylinder 1 so ino its to do with the coil but this time the coil looks fine I'm not sure wether it's just bad luck as was a second hand coil or is something else causing the coil to fail on that one cylinder 1 plug any help please before I replace the coil again
  24. Hi all, My 59 plate 1.6 petrol (auto) has difficulty starting every once in a while. It ticks, but does not crank. When this happens, you have to retry & turn the key twice or three times. Any ideas on what it could be? Battery? Starter motor? Alternator? I'm tempted to replace the battery (still on original battery), but don't want to waste £££ if it's not the cause. Cheers
  25. Hi, I have recently purchased a 2011 Ford Fiesta Zetec. The other night I was sat in some traffic which was moving every 5 minutes or so, or rolling forward. My temperature light came on but I did not hear my engine fan come on? The light only went out once I got moving again doing normal speed (30mph). While cleaning my car today I turnt the engine on and let it run to see if it would come on again - I had it running for at least 30-40 minutes - yet the light never come on, but neither did the fan. ***Please help!*** Could it of been a one off thing? Does the car temp need to be a certain level before the fan comes on? Could my fan simply just not be working? If so, how can I resolve this? Kind Regards, Ben