AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/Injector+Recon'.

Found 19 results

  1. fiesta 1.4 tdci

    Just changed my injector seals put everything back together now the engine is locking up and will only turn over so far with a spanner on the top pulley before it locks up again anyone else had this!?
  2. This fault first happened at 75mph while overtaking. Selected neutral, switched engine OFF / ON now engine started again. All OK at 60 mph but dangerous to risk any faster especially in the outside lane. Had to fix this quick so purchased a code reader from Amazon but no code was stored. Only way to get a fault code was to drive hard to get car to cut out then pull over and stop WITH IGNITION STILL ON and then connect code reader. Fault code was PO 251 Injection pump fuel metering Control A malfunction. I suspected fuel starvation so replaced fuel filter. The contents of the old filter was emptied into a jam jar and checked for metal particals which is a sign of faulty injection pump but all OK no metal in the filter. Also blew air into fuel pipe to the tank, bubbles came up in the tank so no blockage there. Next day had 600 mile round trip job , so purchased BG244 injection cleaner and full tank of Shell V Power. Found car ok on cruise control set to 70 mph but still cut out when trying to hold 70 mph up a hill. Car cut out at least 10 times that day. This still seems to be low fuel pressure. The injector nozzles should be clean by now so can't be that. On internet found injectors have spray nozzles plus a pressure relief valve which opens to let excessive fuel back to the tank. A common problem is this valve leaks and fuel pressure is reduced in the fuel rail. That seems to be my problem. NOTE : It only needs one injector to leak to cause low fuel pressure but always best to get all four injectors fitted with new leak back valves together. Got a quote from a diesel specialist garage at £1300 + VAT = £1560. This included diagnostic test plus injector leak back test and 4 reconditioned injectors plus coding the injectors. Decided not to bother with the garage I will take the injectors out myself and get them repaired. -------------------------------------------------------------- Removing the injectors on a 2004 Mondeo is the easiest job I have ever done on this car. I followed the Haynes manual. See quick guide below. 1) Remove battery negative lead 2) Wait about 2 minutes for fuel pressure to drop in the rail. Mark the position of the 4 high pressure pipes to the injectors and remove these 4 pipes. 3) Remove the front camshaft cover screws and lift the two triangle metal plates so that you can now unplug the 4 injector electric leads and remove the 4 leakback clips. 4) IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT NO SPECKS OF DIRT ENTER THE FUEL RAIL OR INJECTORS so cover the open holes with Duck Tape ( photo 1 ) 5) Unplug the electric plug at the right hand side of the camshaft cover using a bent screwdriver to lift the clip inside plug ( photo 2 ). Also disconnect the crankcase vent pipe ( lever this off with screwdriver ). Unclip the wiring loom and position to the left side with the triangle plates still attached to the wiring loom. 6) Lever out the 4 injector oil seals then remove all screws holding the camshaft cover. Remove camshaft cover. You will now see a brilliant design of an engine. The 4 injectors are in an oil bath and so you will have no problems unbolting them. Most other cars including the expensive ones have the injectors fitted to the outside of the engine block and corrode solid, new engines are needed in some cases but no problems for a Mondeo TDCI. It is now very important to understand that the 4 injectors have a different 16 bit code on their labels and the engine management has to be told what 16 bit number injector is fitted in what cylinder 1.2.3 or 4. I counted from left to right and marked the injectors with a hacksaw blade one at a time as I removed them and also WROTE DOWN THE 16 BIT NUMBER in a diary for future reference. Each injector must be refitted in the same cylinder after reconditioning. IF YOU GET THIS WRONG THE CAR WILL NOT START. ( photo 3 ). If you get a rough idle after refitting the reconditioned injectors the engine management computer will have to have this 16 bit number re-entered. When the injector is fitted you will not be able to see the 16 bit number so don't forget to write it down while its out. You can re-code the engine management yourself as injector programmers / code readers are available on ebay at only £16-95 each. Give it a few days to settle down first though, as the engine management has a built-in learning curve and should automatically do minor adjustments itself. 7) Unbolt the 4 injectors, I used a box spanner with long ring spanner very easy. ( photo 4 ) 8) My local injector reconditioner company was C.A.E. DIESEL LTD Chingford London 0208 527 8077. John the owner was very helpful with advice. At 10am he had the injectors and I collected at 4pm same day. All injectors were fitted with new leak back valves and spray pattern checked. ( £95 each + VAT ). 9) Keep the protective covers on the injectors and refit them in the correct order also make sure the flat part where electric leads fit is facing front. Use a metal rule to line them up. I found it easier to finger tight first and then turn injector 45 degrees back then tighten with the box spanner. The injector turns as the bolt is tightened so as you cannot see the flat part, its a bit hit and miss but its easy enough to get them tight and lined up. ( photo 5 ) 10) Refit the camshaft cover and then the injector oilseals. Dont forget to connect the vent pipe and the electric plug. Refit the high pressure pipes in the same order. Connect the battery negative lead. I did not replace any oilseal or pipes, all were reused. The Haynes manual advised renewing everything but to me all parts were still good and I checked with Fords they do the same as me. There is no need at all to bleed the fuel rail. Any air thats inside will be compressed to nothing when the injector pump starts. I turned the key and it started within 4 seconds. Road tested all OK now and tick-over perfect. Total cost including VAT was £456 I saved over £1000 and learnt a lot. Good Luck with yours. Dave Latest update: 12th April 2015 New cutout problem where glowplug flashes then instant cutout. Not a fuel problem. Faulty batch of Camshaft Position Sensors. Type on google " MONDEO TDCI 2004 MORE CUTOUT PROBLEMS ALL FIXED NOW " for full report.
  3. Hi i have a 1.4 tdci fiesta titanium Ive recently required this car back from my ex wife obviously shes totally neglected the car. NO 4. injector was leaking on the seal so i decided to remove them and replace them all i took my time in cleaning and hoovering carbon away whilst doing this. so after replacing them the car obviously took some starting, eventually she ran but on doing so I noticed that every time it started the engine the oil pressure light took around 5 seconds to go out not giving me throttle response until build up. I can understand that as a engine safety feature. First time round it would cut out 10 seconds after the oil pressure was there so I decided to look at the heater plugs and low and behold 3 heater elements snapped in the head so took head off and sorted the plug problem and built it back up only to get the same fault excluding the cutting out. In all of this I never ran the pump dry and always hand primed the system first so OK I thought id take it for a test drive round the block " serious lack of power " I thought I was going to burn the clutch out I had to rev it that much to set off at junctions. I'm a very experienced mechanic but been working on hgvs for the past 10 years and a little loose on the new stuff could anyone shed any light on the matter please. Is it worth a couple of hours diag at ford ?
  4. Hi all, Wondering if you can shed some light on my problem as I've read multiple responses and I'm torn between my mondeo needing the dreaded DMF change or weather it's something else. Starting the car there is a low engine note like a clunky misfire, if it were petrol I'd say s spark plug was buggered. Then the car idles with a clicking sound like a washing machine with a spanner in it but when I depress clutch halfway to bite point their is no sound. The car drives fine has covered decent mileage 170k but having read another reply that a guy had a software update and checked injectors and all was fine I'm wondering if anyone can help? I probably wouldn't bother spending the £500-£600 on the part and labour as the car is not worth it. Also a mechanic friend advised sticking in a single mass flywheel/clutch conversion kit and the car will go for ever? Is that advisable? I've read horror stories about it but I'm intrigued as I love the car and I cover a lot of miles and would like to keep it on the road. Thanks in advance for any advice. Car is a mk3 55 plate mondeo zetec 2.0 diesel
  5. Hi there, I'm Dan, I'm new to forum's and am excited to join. I am searching for some advice, as probably most of you all know a common fault on mk6 fiesta's are the injector seals. I carried out the work to replace these injector seals and managed to clean up the area very well, the job went absolutely perfect and I couldn't be happier as I could see instant results although the only problem I am having is that on assembly of the engine cover I wasn't able to put in the two screws on the back on the engine block. For some reason they were too high above the hole that they go into. I checked to ensure that I hadn't got anything trapped that was stopping it from going down fully (not to mention I also replaced the manifold seals and ensured they were seated correctly) although I am a bit stumped as to why I can't get these two bolts back in, is anyone able to shed some light onto this for me at all? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you very much! Dan
  6. Technical

    My Grand C Max Titanium (2011) with 35,000 miles regularly serviced is at a Ford garage in France: how do I know it is not just the filter (changed last March 2014) all clogged in? I did use cheap diesel. Now I need to have 1 injector replaced already?! and at a cost of €600?! Please help! as no luck with UK head office on the phone: never took the Assistance warranty insurance, was 3 months when I bought it. Had already had the AC system replaced, paid for by Ford within the 3 years warranty and now this. Stuck in France. Ta. PS I have already told the garage to give me the faulty injector to send it to Ford UK when I'm back. It was a demonstration vehicle and was assured that they are all built the same...
  7. I have noticed that my 3rd injector was visibly leaking and making a chuffing noise, i found that the 2 bolts that hold it in were loose, i have read that there was a service bulletin covering this which states that these bolts need to be checked at every service as they can work loose. I went over all the bolts for all the injectors and found that most of them were loose, i have nipped them all up a bit with an allen key but you have to be carefull as they look delicate and need to be tightened to a specific torque setting. Does any one know the torque setting for these bolts?
  8. Hi, i have a Mondeo estate tdci ghia x 02 2litre and a few months ago the glow plug light began to flash. The car still drives well but there is a loss of power/speed and does smoke in the morning for a minute or so. I've blanked the EGR valve off, replaced and bought a new diesel filter, i also replaced a turbo pipe which was originally split. I also recently put in a second hand injector , however it is in full working order. But this problem still persists no matter what i do with it. any ideas/suggestions will be appreciated! thanks.
  9. Hi, First time poster long time lurker :) I recently purchased a Ford focus tdci 1.6 it is an 06 plate. During the first 2 months of ownership i have had no problems. However, since then an EML light appeared indicating a DPF fault. The car was returned to the original seller (several times) and eventually a new DPF eventually fitted. They also fitted a new EGR valve. The reason that I would like your advice is beause when driving down the motorway I am experiencing intermittent power loss . It is almost like the car is kangarooing like a petrol model. I am thinking this may be a MAF sensor fault? I have also noticed that the breather pipe from the oil exchanger is a poor fit thus causing oil vapor to collect in the air inlet (from the airbox). Now onto Chapter 2: When i got the car after 2 months i noticed the "black death" from injector 3. There is a fairly small, but noticable carbon deposit coming from here. When i returned the car because of the DPF fault i informed the sales man and he ensured me that the injector seat has been fixed. However, I am now 6 months in and still experencing this kangarooing type problem with the car. I have looked at the turbo chaft and it is solid and looks to be Ok.. Have also taken off the EGR since it has been replace and it is free and working as should be. Where else do i look? Your thoughts and suggestions are most welcome (except i can't afford to get rid) Pete
  10. Hi everyone, im new to the forum i recently bought myself a 2002 ford focus ghia 1.8 tdci. It developed a problem and kept failing to start without easy start, it also cuts out at about 2000 rpm and the glow plug light flashes. Ive changed the fuel pumped, glow plugs, fuel filter and now 2 injectors as i done a leak off test and 2 and 3 had massive leak. I havnt yet recoded the injectors but it is still failing to start and cutting out. My fault codes are as follows on dtc. p0100 mass air flow sensor, p1211 injector control presure above or below, po335 crank shaft sensor malfunction, p2291 inhector control presure too low, p0201, p0203, p202, p0204 all injectors malfunctioning. p0251 injection pump fuel metering malfunction. Im no further forward so decided to see if anyone else had any clues to what my problem could be. Thanks :) any advice would be really helpful.
  11. Hi all, i realise this topic has been covered here before and i have read as much as i can find, but i still have 1 question : Are *ALL* 1.4 TDCI Fiestas afflicted with this Injector Seal issue, or is it only certain years ?. I am considering buying a 2009 (mk7) with 33,000 miles on it. Many thanks.
  12. Hi There!

    Hi all, I am currently driving in a 1.3 Fiesta Finesse which I have had for just over a year and I'm just looking for some advice on things to do to my fiesta to make look a bit cooler and general up keeping of my wee ford. Thanks for reading!
  13. Focus 2.0Tdci Injector Leak

    Hello guys, Couple days ago i saw that my injector started to leak (the place where it leaks is shown in the attached pic) , i wonder if i can easily fix that, or is it a really big problem? Any advice?
  14. Hello Folks! This is my first post here and consider me fairly noob in Diesel Fuel systems. I have a 2000 Ford Focus Ghia 1.8 TDDI which is a brilliant runner other than a recent problem I noticed. I pulled into my driveway this afternoon and saw white smoke coming from under the hood. I could smell diesel and there was a trail of leakage upto my parking spot as well. I popped the hood, started the car and bam! a fountain of my precious diesel everywhere! It's the fourth injector and the leak off pipe is missing... Now I read a fair bit on the forums about how I can procure myself some of them pipes from Hellf**** but I have no idea where does is go. I see no dangling old pipe or have no clue where that pipe would go from the injector. I don't understand why would it even come off on it's own with my rather low rev and tamed driving :) I understand that it would complete a loop back to fuel system but have no clue how in this specific engine layout. Any photo is very welcome!!!!
  15. 2005 Focus 1.6 Tdci Issues.

    Hi Guys, My first post here and I will get to the point of my technical woes. I have a 2005 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI with some engine issues. I am aware this is the pegeout engine that from reading around is pretty common to give allot of issues. The car is currently at 142,000 miles. I cant say much about the history pre 113k miles with exception of a new Turbo being done around 110k miles. When I took ownership of her 9 months ago I ensured every 6k miles a fresh oil change was done at our workshop. I have basically tried to keep her serviced as best as possible. Now to the problems, It started off with a severe lack of power, the turbo would not charge and if it did only around 2.6k RPM. So we hooked up the diagnostics (Ford ETIS) and the maf sensor was stuffed. Recently I have had to do the following, New MAF sensor (old one was stuffed, even trying to bring the old one back to life did not work) New Injector in cylinder 1. New Turbo link pipe (the T shaped part that goes between air box/Turbo and the oil breath pipe as the donut before me had over tightened the jubilee clamp which had torn a hole in the pipe). All of the above seemed to have sorted things out pre December 2012. I started having issues around end of December / January. Again, more loss of power and an engine warning light. The code reader detected EGR valve failiure, so we reset this and I was waiting a couple of weeks for a new replacement one (funds are tight after xmas). Now a few days ago the motor is not happy at all. Anywhere between 1.2k to 1.9k RPM the engine is vibrating badly with little or no performance then as soon as it hits 2.1k RPM the engine judders and the turbo kicks in (not in its usual smooth way), upon inspection 2 injectors were leaking badly (Missfire causing the performance loss?), so we have pulled them out, cleaned them up and put new washers in and put the injectors back in. Again the same problem with the bad vibrating….. any suggestions?????. Note the EGR is being fitted now as I speak, unfortunately I had to take the car back with just the injectors done as my son was taken into hospital so that’s why it was not done in one big hit. Could the faulty EGR be causing this??? Do you think the injectors will need to be reseated?, if so is this a big job as the injector pits are very deep on this engine so putting something in the hole would be difficult. Could the Turbo be on its way out AGAIN?. I know this model is cursed with turbo problems due to oil feed pipe and gause being blocked. Fortunately I work in a huge 4x4 hire company at the head office so we have a big workshop facility with all the ford diagnostic tools. Any help would be great as I am very desperate to get my car running ok as I am due some long cross country journeys soon and it is proving to be a nightmare. Many thanks in advance. Jake.
  16. Mondeo Mk3 Problems

    Hi All. Please help! I recently reconditioned my Duratec 2.0L Mondeo engine. The engine idles fine, revs fine, starts fine and even accelerates fine. However, whenever I depress the clutch at an intersection, the revs fall right down and the engine dies. It starts at the first swing again. Someone told me that the timing was out. I rechecked and reset it. Still the same problem. What else can I try? Thanks.
  17. Focus Injector Problem

    hi i was hoping the some one can help please i have a focus tddi and it is leaking diesel from cylinder 2 injector all the run off pipes have been changed as they had deteriorated but the aa man has said it has a slow progressive leak from the injector seat its an 04 lx tddi with the most comprehensive s/h i have seen being an ex police car what i suppose i would like to know is this an expensive fix or is it time for it to visit the scrap yard and that would be a shame as i love the car i know its got going to be a cheap fix but i dont want to pay more than the car is worth anyway thanks for everyone help and advice
  18. Mondeo Starting Issues

    Can someone please help me? I have a 2008 Mondeo 1.8 TDCi Zetec and am finding it increasingly difficult to start first thing. When I turn the key (after the glow plug light goes out) the engine almost turns over but doesn't start. WHen I turn the key on the second attempt it usually starts, and then for the rest of the day it does start first time. However, when it's cold and I try to start first thing in the morning it takes 3 or 4 attempts before it starts! The garage I bought it from had the car for several days and said they couldn't find anything wrong with it (although to be honest I'm not sure they know what they're doing!) I am worried that this may be something that could be worse if I don't get it looked at by another garage but it would help if I had an idea of what was causing this so I can tell the garage what to look for. Any ideas would be gratefully received! Thank you in advance.