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Showing results for tags 'forums/Rear+Dash'.

Found 154 results

  1. Mk2.5 to mk2 rear lights

    I am wanting smoked rear lights to my mk2.5 focus, and all the better looking units ive found are apparently for the mk2. Do these fit? They look VERY similar! Thanks
  2. Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone would be able to give me some advice on this product sold by puma speed? Do I need to cut my original rear valance?(The standard one that comes on a 57 plate fiesta zetec s) Was wondering what actually come with this product also, is it a whole new rear valance or is it the fins and the top half that stick on over the existing one?   Any help would be largely apreciated.   Samuel.G.Harris Burgerm4n
  3. Hi all I've got a 56 plate Fiesta Zetec and there seems to be a problem with the Dash Computer, the one in between the Rev Count and Speedometer that displays the mileage and outside temp along with average fuel consumption etc.. Basically I was driving home this evening and noticed the display has almost faded completely! Its still lit up green (when the light are on) but the actual numbers and display you can barely see at all. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Thanks in advance!
  4. Hi, Looking to remove my rear bumper and struggling a little. Found loads of info for the Mk2 but none for the facelift! Has anyone removed it from the facelift model and if so please help! :)
  5. Hi Guys I have just had to use my rear fogs since i purchased my car last year on returning from a journey i noticed the lefthand/nearside one was not lit reading on talkford forum it appears there was a change from Mk3 twin rear fogs to Mk3.5 single rear fog, if that is the case, is there any parts i can purchase to bring it back to twin rear fogs, it looks stupid with a red lens cover on thaf side if not working or in use, please advise if anybody has done this conversion and any part numbers used ??, best of the 2016 season to all fellow members huey45
  6. It is interesting how many Fusions have bad water ingress in the rear lights. Mine is a 2009 with water in both, despite sealing the bulbholder and everything else. Looking at Ebay and scrap yards I've found most of them to be the same when you ask or examine on a wet day. Even a 2011 car with water in both lights. Is it a manufacturing problem as a local dealer said he had replaced stacks of them. Nice, as they are £100 each inc fitting or £75 if you do it yourself, and only a 12 months warranty. I have had cars all my life and never any water ingress, only plastic fading on son's 2001 car. The Fusion lights must be badly designed or very cheaply made!
  7. Hi Just wondered if anyone on here has had the same problem. I have a 1999 focus estate, only problem being is the heated rear window is only half working/clearing. Now I only use the car really for fishing and taking the dog out, but as you can imagine, only being able to see half out the rear window can be a bit of a pain. Has anyone had the same problem?....and if so, how did you fix it? Many thanks. Rich
  8. Dash Cam For Tinted Windows

    Hey folks, I have 2 questions that I feel with the amount of dashcams running about someone should be able to help me with! I'm looking for a dash cam that is good enough to pick out a good level of detail through tinted glass, it's for the back of my car and I have factory tint's so nothing too dark but I feel may be dark enough to cause an issue or two. So question 1 is does anyone have any recommendations? I'm not wanting to go too pricey as it's a rear cam and not as important as the front (of which I have a Nextbase 402G which is a brilliant dashcam to say the least!), but then I do want a decent picture so has to be of a minimum 720p obviously; though it doesn't need features such as GPS and the like as the 402G has me covered there. Second question is are there any drawbacks from having 2 dash cams powered through the same power outlet? I run my front cam to the rear outlet as seeing I didn't notice that I had one for 3 years in my previous Fiesta (and probably the 18 months of the one previous to that) then I feel it may as well; however I'd run the second from the same spot too most likely. Also a sneaky third question - anyone got any ideas for blanking off the screen temporarily? I want one with a screen for ease of use, but I don't want a tiny view of what's going on behind me being a pain in low light :P Thanks guys!
  9. Hi All, Question about my Focus. Came back from holiday after a week away and cold weather at home. Took off handbrake which stuck until I reversed out of the car parking space, but it still feels there is a little more rolling resistance than normal when I drive the car. Main points: -Handbrake disengages completely....not slack when it's down. No hand brake light on either, so that's all fine. -Fuel consumption has gone up by 25% (although I am not doing a weekly 80 miles round trip on a dual carriageway during the winter, only combined city/country driving) -Slight noise coming from rear right wheel but not from others when car is rolling slowly, doesn't sound like the brake though So, I'm thinking the bearing, but how could that have just decided to break while I was away? Car is parked in secure location outside. Any ideas? This weekend I will jack the rear up and compare the rolling resistance of each rear wheel to see what's up and report back. Cheers!
  10. Guide: Stealth Dual Camera DVR system Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 I've post this information in my build thread but figured it would work quite as a guide aswell considering the quality of the kit is exceptional. Shopping list: DVR System: TF/Micro SD Card 32Gb: Piggy back fuse adaptor: USB Socket kit: Suction cup disc: Super Steel Glue: PVC Tape: 8.4mm Ring Crimp Terminal: Where possible the above items have been purchased from the same supplier to save money on shipping, AutoStar are top supplier of automotive electrical equipment my number one supplier throughout all my guides quality guaranteed. The USB socket kit I've chosen has two sockets, So if like me you have a TomTom Satnav, You may wish to purchase this USB cable to power your Satnav from the USB socket aswell freeing up the 12V socket in the centre console: The goal is to mount the 3.5" DVR unit hidden inside the glovebox mounted on its suction cup arm, It can be flipped down if required. It will be powered by the USB socket which is also mounted inside the glovebox and power is provided by the piggy back fuse adaptor pluged in to a 12v ignition feed. The DVR unit also has its own internal rechargeable battery just the same as a Satnav, It can be set to wake up and record if movement is detected outside of the vehicle when the car is parked, without draining the car battery, The system automatically begins to record when power is provided from ignition, It can also take still photo images on command. The video quality is 720P HD The unit records two separate videos in full screen for both front and rear camera. The cameras themselves are quite discreet and following this installation guide will provide optimum stealth results. So here's the DVR system and whats in the box: Rear Camera: Front Camera: Standard 12V to USB supply: Screen mount: Now to get fitting, Open glovebox, Remove several screws Slide out glove box Bring to table or work bench. At this point we need the glue and suction cup disc: Mount the suction cup bracket from the DVR to the suction cup base and trial fit, As you can see the roof of the glovebox isn't flush smooth, I first trimmed down the suction cup base in a bid to obtain complete flush contact between base and roof: Quick trial fit and still not 100% Using some PVC tape; attach end of loom to a hard length of grass strimmer line or cable makes it easier to fish through the Goose neck. Such as this: When through the Goose neck, Gently remove the rubber seal from around the boot door, Route cable with attached plastic line; Out from between roof lining and roof of the car until all is through. Next remove the parcel shelf for temporary storage, Remove the two torx screws securing the side panel. Next using a flat head screwdriver; Remove plastic grommets in C pillar panels revealing some Philips head screws. Remove these screws to allow s Refit parcel shelf And Close boot door, Rear camera now fitted inside 35% tint, not even visible from outside :) Front Camera also fitted routing cable down passenger side A-Pillar inside rubber door seal cavity. : Now installing the USB socket kit: I had initially planned to mount it on the top rear section of the glovebox opposite the vent, On physical trial fit though; there's not enough space back there to allow it fit, Best alternative option was the upper right corner of the glovebox. I haven't got the required size of hole-saw to drill it, So I've used the bracket as a template for cutting it out with a dremil; Quick trial fit inserting it in backwards for trial purposes, Don't worry about rough edges because there's a lip on the socket covers it from view as you can see in images below; Now fitting snug, Time to remove and insert the correct way around. Prior to putting on the securing plastic ring. Looking very tidy inside the glovebox :) Installing USB cable, I had this 1.5M USB cable that came with my TomTom Satnav back in 2010 so I've chosen to use it for this installation because it has a 90 Degree fitting that works quite well with the design of flip down DVR. I didn't like the idea of trailing the USB cable inside the glovebox as it looks untidy and liability of getting caught up in things, So i cut out a small section in the top of the glovebox allowing the small plug pass through, When the cable is through; Plug in the USB to the socket, Create a comfortable elbow on the cable inside the glovebox. Patch inside area of the hole using PVC tape, Then mix up a small bit of Super Steel to patch up the hole from outside the glovebox, The PVC tape on the inside will hold the glue while it sets hard filling the gap :) Tape can be removed after 20 minutes of applying the glue. I then masked up sections of the usb cable, Prior to applying some more Super Steel weld, Then removing tape after 20 minutes, Bonding the cable to the glovebox nicely. Looks tidy and wont get caught in anything. When completed and dry, Bring glovebox back to the car Ensure positive and negative feeds are correctly identified and attached to the USB socket: Earth feed: With the glovebox still removed; look inside the area to see a bolt securing a crimped ring terminal earth feed: Remove bolt and cut the earth feed to the desired length followed by crimping on a replacement ring terminal: Loop ring terminal on to bolt just like a washer and insert bolt back in to place. Flip down passenger fuse box, Fish positive feed from socket down to the fuse board area and obtain the piggy back adaptor: Cut the positive feed to desired length, Strip terminal and crimp on the piggy back adaptor. Remove fuse from the USB power supply kit loom and insert it in to top socket of the piggyback adaptor: With glovebox work now complete, Route cables from both cameras in through to DVR unit, Plug in camera feeds following the power feed. Still folds up hidden out of direct view and obstruction :) Secure all 7 screws and return all items to glovebox; Final task now is fitting the piggy back fuse to a switched ignition live feed in the passenger footwell fuse board. Ive gotta edit this section as i study Haynes manual in search of a switched live fuse location on the board. Unplug fuse: F100 Insert this fuse in to piggy back adaptor, Insert piggyback in to original fuse location in slot F100 Ill also insert images of removing panels and insert them among the text. The DVR unit can then be flipped up and locked, Now hidden from view and no obstruction to the standard operation of the glovebox. It records automatically no need to touch it :) Working on this guide across the next few days guys, I've gotta back fill with images but we will get there by New Years day :) Thanks for viewing my guide, See my other guides linked on my Profile page. Or My Full list of Guides can be viewed here link:
  11. Hi My 2 rear windows have started rattling in the last few months. It started off on one side and now its on the other as well. If you put the window down slightly, you hear it every time you go over a slight bump. If the windows are shut, you don't hear it, but you do when you close the doors. Its with the Ford dealership at the moment and they reckon its normal because they checked another Galaxy as well. I know for fact it only started a few months ago. Any ideas what it could be? Imran
  12. Hi All I have a shiny new Gord Galaxy Titanium Edition 2014. I have noticed that the front and rear headlamps always stay on when the ignition is on. It is supposed to have auto sensing headlights when is where the knob is set to. Even if I move the knob to manual "0" position, the lights still stay on. ( The dash lights go off in the position). I took it back to the dealer and was told those are the running lights but that sounds like nonsense to me. Anybody know if he's right, will I always have to drive around with my lights on? (and let me clear, they are not the small types of running lights, it is the main headlamps were talking about). There are loads of Galaxys on the road but I have not seen any with headlamps on during the day on any of them. Hope someone can shed some light (sorry, couldn't resist) Imran
  13. First this, I've got a Ford Focus 1.6 Setec S What are these wires for? When trying to find a AUX input on my car I came across these wires. They fit to the back of the button board below the Clumate control/ above the 12V plug. I've tried looking for pictures of other models and the only buttons I can find are, passenger air bag, or central locking? Can someone confirm what they are, and if it would be possible to buy a button and then have the car feature. Thank you:)
  14. Hi Guys and Gals, I'm interested it getting a budget dash cam with a screen ( under £55 ). I'd love to see what you have bought and find out your thoughts on this. There are so many on ebay and thought it would be grate to have up to date guide. Looking forward to your recommendations and warnings :D
  15. Hi, I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a dashcam to my Mk2.5(?) Focus (08 plate). I'm aware that cigar lighter and 12v aux socket are both permanent live and looking for a solution to getting ignition live. I really don't want to have to pull the car apart or splice cables, and a couple of options fit that well: my preferred option below, or get Dave at autostar to provide the piggyback fuse and other bits to add some extra ignition live cabling to attach to. My preferred option is to swap the fuse location to make the 12V socket ignition live - the info I've found so far is that it should be an adjacent socket, but I have yet to find a page on the web that actually states which socket to use. From the manual, I have in the passenger junction box: 109 : Cigar lighter, rear auxiliary power socket This is the fuse that I need to move I believe. Disturbed by the term "rear [...] socket" as I only have one in the centre console. It could be termed rear if some models have one in the glovebox, but I am aware that some have one in the boot! So which slot should the fuse move to? Well, if adjacent then I have a choice of: 108 : Accessory to cluster (audio and navigation unit) 110 : Daytime running lamps ignition supply to lighting control switch 114 : Instrument cluster ignition supply, engine immobiliser 115 : Lighting control ignition supply 116 : Fog lamps However, on looking at the fuse panel, only slot 110 is free (I don't have daytime running lamps). What is getting me is I cannot understand how pulling a fuse and putting in another slot can change the behaviour of the 12v socket! I am not very clued up on electrics - I am guessing that the 12v socket is *NOT* wired up exclusively to the 109 slot but to multiple sockets, and it just happens that you get fuse protection with ignition live if connected to slot 110, and fuse protected permanent live if fitted to slot 109 (and for god's sake don't put a fuse in both!). Am I remotely in the right ball park? Do I have the right shape ball??? Many thanks, Alan..
  16. I am wanting to replace my rear diffuser with either one off a Zetec S or ST, but on my car the middle two parking sensors are actually in the diffuser, rather than above it on the rear bumper itself where they seems to be on most fiesta's I have seen. I have been looking for rear diffusers for sale that already have the two parking sensors incorporated but cannot find any. I have now decided it is probably quicker to move the sensors onto the car bumper itself and then buy any diffuser. I'm assuming that all I need to move is the sensor which is just connected to a single wire? Has anybody attempted this before? Was it an easy home job or is it better for a garage to do? Cheers.
  17. rear valance

    From the album Fies

  18. Escort Van

    Does anybody on here know of anyone with a rear drivers side hub to suit a 1989 escort van ?
  19. Hi all, I purchased a 59 plate ka mk2 at the weekend and noticed tonight that the temp and fan controls don't light up on the centre console. I'm assuming that this isn't normal? Do I need to replace the heater control unit? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  20. Well after fitting the Spider tuning chip to my 1.6 tdci 115 (now 150) I was really noticing the body roll and the wife was complaining and the dog Barfd!. So it was either drive slower round corners (where's the fun in that?) or sort it., The 40 profile 18's were not helping either Just fitted the BMR78XZ whiteline Rear adjustable Sway bar (anti roll bar for us brits), and am very chuffed The car stays flat around corners and roundabouts now, but still has suspension, I purposely drove over speed humps and did both wheel and one wheel up jobs and the suspension of course hasn't changed, but stick her in a roundabout or a fast sweeping bend and she stays really flat and feels less stressed (its raining at moment so cant go too mad), Rear feels much more planted now Fitting wasnt too bad as the car is newish still so all bolts were clean. However the bush mounts did need a tap on the socket handle to free them up (all 13mm). The front arms were easier and need an 18mm spanner for the nut and a 10mm spanner to hold the centre from spinning Only issue was that the holes in the new bar were 2mm too small for the front bolts to fit through. This was remedied with a circular file and 15 mins of elbow grease, rather than a drill. Then the holes were greased up to stop corrosion. The new bar doesn't have stops for the rear bushes like the original, only two orange metal clamps to be applied. I used the old bar to set their position before I put it on the car. The new bushes have Teflon liners so are grease free for life. Went back on easy. Old bished come out of the metal clamps (reused) pretty easily as well with a small prybar There is just enough room to do this without jacking up the rear I put mine on the stiffest straight away. seems a great setting All in all a good investment and modification. Got 400 miles to do tomorrow with dogs in car so that will be a good test S
  21. Hello all, I'm trying to hard wire a Mobius dash cam, i've succesfully wired another type of camera to my old mondeo, but this cam is causing me problems, i have it set up so that it should power up and record when external power is connected, the fact that it does so when i connect it to a USB slot on my PC indicates it's set up right, however when i connect it to the lead which i have hardwired to my fusebox, nothing. I used one of these along with a piggy back fuse, I've actually tried twice with 2 different leads and piggy back fuses and there doesn't seem to be any power going to the camera, I connect PB fuse to power lead (the live lead) and grounded the other wire to chassis as i did with my old car. i've tried it on different fuses, the last being fuse no' 22 , which is the Instrument cluster, i've also tried lighter socket,and i think the electric windows, I'm as certain as i can be my wiring is up to scratch, the piggy back fuses look ok, can any experenced Mobius user confirm my settings are correct ? any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Neil
  22. Rear Seat Squeaking

    Hello, New on here, boldly going with my new 5 door 1.0 ecoboost. It's less than two months old and has developed an annoying squeak from the rear offside. I initially searched the web and checked heat deflectors, hand brake bushes, brake shoes and the rear seat backrest catches. The squeak is only apparent with a single passenger sitting in the middle, rear seat and only when straightening up from a left curve or turn. i.e. if no rear passenger or 2 or more passengers or single passenger on off rear side = no squeak. After much investigation and head scratching I've narrowed the problem down to the rear seat bench. i first looked up how to remove it with instructions telling me it was a very tight fit because of the supporting wire frame locating into hook like brackets next to the seat belt anchors and then the front wire hoops dropping into their locators. On mine the seat bench can be very easily be lifted from the rear before popping up the front locators. Thinking this may be a simple bad install I removed the bench and attempted a better fit. The rear support wire locates without problem into said brackets BUT to get the front loops to locate I have to push the bench backwards (towards the boot) to lign up the front locators. This then allows the seat to be loose at the rear mounts and can once again be lifted out without first popping the front locators. I basically have an ill-fitting rear seat bench that squeaks loudly and annoyingly under the conditions described. Is this something the dealer would be able and willing to cure or even something that has been encountered before along with a possible remedy? TIA
  23. Hi everyone, I would like to replace my obd port by a dummy obd port. But how do I remove the panel covering the port (see pictures) without damaging it? I only see one screw so I suppose it is a snap fit system?
  24. Rear Drop Links Query

    Hi all, I recently had to have the left rear suspension arm replaced when the coil spring snapped. Basically all the bushes etc were seized (I was at the garage at the time & saw the lengths the garage went to trying to remove the assembly). The car drives OK & there isn't any knocking etc, however I was following my car this morning & noticed the left sway bar/anti roll bar looked to be sat lower than the right. I've had a look under the rear & taken a few pics, the left hand drop link looks like its bent in the middle. The right hand one is straight which is how I assume it is supposed to be, I'm a bit confused how the L/H one can be at the angle that it is because the nut that secures it at the top is still in place (unless the bolt section has snapped) but wouldn't it sit lower if it was just "dangling" down. If I decide to have a little "fun" the rear does feel a little loose but it doesn't feel massively unstable when pushing through a corner at speed. Looking at the state of the rubber boots on both I'm leaning towards replacing them, I thought I'd check for any advice on doing the job etc from people more knowledgeable than me! I'm not too bad with a socket set so I'm happy to have a go at replacing them, I just didn't want to start the job & find out there was another part I needed other than replacement drop links such as these or maybe some Lemforder ones as I know there stuff seems to be considered good quality. Any advice/input would be appreciated.
  25. Hi all, Apologies... yet another "battery warning light / voltage Issue" I see this is a common problem with various solutions. Just after an opinion or two on whether I will be ok driving around until the weekend and doing a longer drive on Saturday or should I look to fix the issue before then? I am part exing the car on Saturday but I have to make it to Harpenden from High Wycombe to do so! Some details of the issue: About 6 weeks ago the battery light came on on my Focus (1.6 LX mk1 2005) and stayed onA couple of days later the car would not start after workI got a push start and got about half way home (approx 2.5 miles into a 5 mile journey - just moved house and journey is about half of what it was)Dash went blank - no speedo, lights, warning lightsRAC called, suspected alternator, fitted a temporary battery which got me to my local garageThey replaced the alternator, all good and oil was topped up as it was lowA couple of weeks later the light came backThe garage fitted another alternator (the first was faulty), all goodAnother week and the light came on then disappearedBack to garage, they could find no faultAnother week on again and after a longish drive too (High Wycombe to Watford and back) light comes on and disappearsFind dash trick to check voltage - 11.2V engine off and 13.5V engine on. Booked into an electircal specialist for fault finding.Have kept it in diagnostic mode showing voltage while driving and it fluctuates between 13.5V and 13.7V occasionally reaching and 11.2 - 11.4 when off (generally 11.2 ish). I have been doing a longer circuit so that my drive to/from work is a little longer (25-30 minutes instead of 10) in a bid to get some form of charge into the battery!Have been looking at cars any way so on Saturday I drove from High Wycombe to Slough, (light came on and went off at the services in slough), then to Harpenden and back home (no light). Placed a deposit on a car in Harpenden.The light has again come on on arrival at work this morning and then gone - but I've just gone out to do the dash test and it is on again...So my question is am I safe to keep driving it and to do a motorway journey on Saturday or should I take it to the garage round the corner this evening and ask them to revisit the issue?