AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/accessory+throttle+pedal'.

Found 37 results

  1. I recently bought a used Ford Focus 1.8 Diesel (5 Door) and have a couple of questions maybe you guys can help me with. 1. When the car starts it produces quite a lot of white smoke which stops after a minute or two and is not present when I rev the engine. However, when I stop the car and get out I do notice a strong diesel smell. There is no ticking from the engine when I turn it off and the car seems to drive fine so I am not sure what the problem is. 2. The throttle seems to be a little on the dull side. As I said above the car does seems to drive fine but something just doesn't feel right about the throttle - I have driven many turbo diesels in the past and they had a bit of punch to them when you put your foot down - whereas the Focus does respond it just doesn't seem very aggressive. 3. A couple of mornings ago (it was very cold just above freezing) I started the engine and it was ticking over fine but when I put it in gear and tried to reverse out of my parking spot the throttle simply didn't respond at all. The engine was still running and ticking over fine but nothing from the throttle. Within 10 seconds it was working fine but it was totally dead for those first 10 seconds. 4. When I have the vents on to clear the windscreen, the passenger side clears very quickly but the drivers side takes an age - is there an easy way to check if the fan is broken? I am going to book it into a Ford Center for a winter service next week and will ask them about these other issues as well - but as you know these places can often charge a fortune for things which actually don't need doing so I was just hoping to get some sort of idea of possible issues before I take it in. Also does anyone know of a device which will allow me to read ECU codes to give me some more indication of the problems and also a resource for explaining what the codes mean? I am thinking the problems could be something to do with the injectors - I also thought perhaps the head gasket but I have been told that usually there would be some ticking sound when the engine is turned off if the gasket was the problem. If it is the head gasket how difficult is it to change yourself - I know a garage will charge a small fortune for doing it so if it is not so difficult I would consider doing it myself. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.
  2. So, here's the story in a nutshell. I have my 1L (125) Zetec S for a good couple of months now, which was purchased new end of last year. In the past weeks/month I started to hear a creaking noise when depressing the clutch / gas pedal when the car is in gear, any only when it's in gear (most audible when in lower gears). This mainly happens when the car is cold and after about half an hour or an hour, the noise fades away. During that time the noise can be lower or higher, and if you listen to radio you can barely hear it, but since I know what I need to look for I can kind of hear it whatever and whenever. Been to Ford twice, once they sprayed some WD40 at it, but it didn't make a difference, the other time they didn't do a single thing, just kept me waiting for 1.5 hour (dash cam is my friend), will put a complaint letter together soon to that lovely branch. Obviously, I've searched the whole internet and it seems some other people had this issue, but couldn't find a straight answer what could the issue be. Here's the issue in motion picture format, turn the speakers up: https://vimeo.com/152181707 Anyone got any idea, what could this be? Much appreciated, as always.
  3. Spent £6000 on a ford fiesta zetec s (petrol) that had done 57,000 miles in April of 2015. About a month after I bought the car I discovered a problem. I was driving along in 3rd gear and tried to accelerate, however, when I pressed down on the accelerator there was no response for 1 or 2 seconds, and then suddenly it responded and the car began to accelerate. The problem has continued every since and has become more frequent. No warning lights have ever come on and no diagnostic tool has ever picked up a fault code when I take it to my local ford dealer (who the car is still under warranty with). Every time I take my car to the dealer they are never able to get it to "fault" & no fault codes were ever found hence they said that they can't do any more unless it actually breaks down or shows a warning light. I've had different technicians carry out many different checks on the car, the engine and other potential faulty parts have been cleaned but the problem is still occurring. After the ford dealer were put under pressure by myself to get the problem solved, they replaced the accelerator pedal but this has not fixed the problem. Has anyone had a similar problem with their fiesta? Or know of anyone that has? Any advice/ideas is greatly appreciated as I'm running out of patience with the car and the ford dealer. but they were never able to get it to "fault" & no fault codes were ever found hence they said that they couldn't do any more unless it actually broke down or showed a warning light.
  4. Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could give me any indication of how difficult it would be to change my diesel 1.6 zetec-s 61 plate mk3 focus' accessory belt myself. Is it doable with a basic set of tools or would I need any specialised equipment? Would I need to get access to the underneath of the car? I can clearly see it and it looks like I should be able to get access to it after unmounting and moving the coolant tank, loosening the tensioner by hand and replacing, however I'd like to avoid any unexpected gotchas before I even attempt it. Thanks in advance, Jakub.
  5. Hi all, coming off the motorway slip road yesterday and went to drop down out of 5th gear as I approached the top of the junction but suddenly couldn't put it into another gear and the pedal wouldn't press down either so essentially I was stuck in neutral. No warning, noise or banging just a simple change of gear and then pop my clutch pedal was stuck. I got the car recovered, the engine runs absolutely fine but the guy said it could be the "slave cylinder" as there was leaking when I pressed (with some strength) down on the clutch. I have around 65000 on the clock. Has anyone experienced this and if so in terms of repairs what sort of figure am I looking at? Thanks in advance all.
  6. image

    From the album My fiesta

  7. Throttle Cutting Out

    Hey everyone, I have a FORD FOCUS 58 Plate 2.0 TDCI Titanium. For years I had an intermittent problem- the throttle pedal would briefly stop working. This began happening once every 3-6 months so wasn't too much of an issue. It now happens everyday. Been researching this problem for a while. Despite following many similar topics on just this forum nothing has solved it yet. I do lots of motorway driving (approx 200 miles everyday). On each journey the throttle pedal stops responding and the revs drop to idle. Occasionally the pedal becomes responsive again, other times I'll have to pull over to stop/start the engine. This tends to reset it. Occasionally I can sense when it will happen as the car judders when easing off the throttle pedal and is slow when pressure applied. I don't appear to have any DTC Fault codes, and a Ford Dealer found nothing after a diagnostic. I've replaced the pedal with another (second hand) and it still cuts out. I ordered a replacement (second hand) Throttle Position Sensor but another pedal showed up instead. I was told on this year/model the TPS is now in the pedal. It has now got to the stage where I'm just wasting money on guessing the fault. Suggestions have included replacing injectors, instrument cluster, ECU, fuel filter, but no-one has actually diagnosed the fault. Any help/suggestions will be much appreciated!
  8. Focus Ghia Cruise Control Problem

    hello this is my first topic on this amazing forum my cruise control switch that is located on the pedal has just brook see the image i dont know how to put it back there is any way to just make the 2 wire together and let it work forever ? without any problem that affect anything else thank you please help me
  9. Split Pipes

    hi, can someone tell me which pipes are most common to split on 1.8 focus ,im getting rough revs and a 29.7mpg which is not good andf any tips to check for split ,other than just eyesight please
  10. Hello, I'm after some advice... Last Sunday I was driving along and when I changed gear my clutch pedal suddenly clicked and its not been the same since... It was quite loud at first but then gradually got quieter. It was something I could feel as well as hear. Now it's not really audible but the feeling of the pedal is horrible. It's got the clicky jolt when I depress the clutch and its not as firm as it was before. I managed to get my head down there and look to see what was happening and there is a rod that comes from the master cylinder? that goes onto the back of the pedal assembly which is slipping every time I depress the pedal. Should there be some kind of clip that holds this rod in place on the back of the pedal or has something bent that would keep the rod in the right place. Any assistance is muchly appreciated! :) Thanks
  11. Fiesta 1.4 Zetec Mk6

    Hi, The engine management light came on, so had computer diagnostics run on it and it showed a code P2107 which is a fault with the "throttle body", got a secondhand one and my mechanic fitted it, but he reported that the car ran very badly with it, so he replaced the old one, which the car runs fine with, but has the engine management light on. My question is, when a secondhand throttle body is fitted does it need to be calibrated for that car, and if so, who would do that? Or, if not, does my car running badly with the secondhand throttle body fitted mean that it is faulty? My car is a Ford Fiesta 1.4 Zetec 2005 (Mk6) Thanks...
  12. Hi guys, this is my first forum post and hello to everyone on this forum 😊 To start things off I am having some trouble with my car lately and the problem is forever getting worse by the day, I will start off in first gear and everything is normal, acceleration is normal and the clutch bites instantly, but when I hit 2nd gear if I do it quickly the revs will stay up at 4500 - 5000 rpm, so I have to depress the accelerator to bring it down to its right revs, as soon as I put a little pressure on the accelerator it revs right up to 4500 or higher again. The only way I can accelerate is by dabbing at the accelerator which is very frustrating. I have done a few clutch tests, such as putting the car into 3rd as I am stopped and releasing the clutch so stall it and it does stall when I do this, I ain't very knowledgable on cars myself, any help on this or recommendations would be brilliant, getting very stressful now, thanks a bunch guys, I an upload a short vid clip to show you better to
  13. Hey guys, I have a mk 6 fiesta zetec 1.25, and the throttle response is crap. Have had a look at the fuel pump and the throttle body and all is clear and flowing free. Therefore I'm thinking of upgrading. A larger ported throttle body is a bit too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone knows how good a power boost valve would be, are they worth the money. Or does anyone have any other suggestions to increase throttle response. Cheers
  14. Hi guys, I've scoured the Internet looking for the location of the throttle body in my Focus, I want to give it a good old clean. I used a whole can of carbon cleaner on the throttle body in my Golf and it worked a charm! But as I'm yet to buy a Haynes for the Focus, can someone please help me out! Thanks in advance, Sam
  15. Clutch Slave Cylinder

    Hi everyone 2012 Focus Zetec Sport 1.6 diesel 28k on clock. Started last week clutch peddle higher than brake and catching on metal bar that pedals attach to. Friday pedal was basically on floor. There was still about inch travel to disengage clutch / change gears but got Ford assist out as didn't fancy driving. Turns out a very rare fault according to garage but reading on line not that unusual. Turns out the clutch slave cylinder rod ( bit plastic) snapped and needs replacing. Being done under warrenty but i dont think something like that should go in less than 3 years and low mileage......comments, anyone else had this issue
  16. Hi, Been lurking here for years, but now I've ended up turning into one of those scumbags who only post when they have a problem. Sorry about that, but I promise I'll try and stick around! I've had a 1.8 tdci 52 plate for 3 years, driving 80k in that period - loved it, but it got too old so I replaced it. Got myself a nice 59 plate focus, 2.0 tdci - love the car. Seriously - love the car, but I have a minor (hopefully) problem. In 5th and 6th, and to a lesser extent 4th, when 'flooring it' having say followed a lorry for a while at even revs (1500ish), when I go to overtake and put the pedal to the floor, the car will pull to 1800ish, then judder its way to 2100rpm. Depending on how bad it is, its either nothing more than a vibration as it pulls to a proper judder. It doesn't seem to have a massive effect on actual performance, but its annoying and certainly a problem I want fixed within my 3 month warranty period. However, I'd like to try the obvious first before ringing the garage. The car has done 50k, and obviously only 3.5 years old, however the usual suspects are all 'possibles' - EGR MAF Split intercooler pipe(S) DMF Injectors There is a very slight vibration when the clutch is pushed into the floor (checked when I'm stationary and feeling paranoid!), but I'm fairly confident the DMF is at least 'OK for now'. I don't really have any experience with EGR or MAF, though I know the ford standard intercooler pipes seem to have been made of cardboard, so that's always an option. There's loads of similar problems talked about on the internet, but nothing completely specific to my issue. So I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I'm probably going to have a play tomorrow, check the pipes and potentially clean the EGR if its easy to do - any advice on this also appreciated. Generally I wanted to check the obvious before relying on the warranty. Fuel consumption is around 48MPG, which by all accounts is all good. It had the fuel filter done at 50k, along with oil/filter. I know the fuel filters are a **** to change on some of these, but once its started, presumnably you're OK (so I can discount the garage doing it badly?). Thanks for reading, and apologies for the bumbling nature of the post as I remembered more stuff :P
  17. Hi so I have this problem that most garages seem to not actually have heard of. The clutch goes hard when not being used. If I drive around town for a while where I am constantly changing gear, i.e using the clutch, it works great. If i spend half hour or an hour on the motorway in one gear, i.e not using it, the clutch pedal goes stiff when i finally do. It's not impossible to depress but harder than it should be, as soon as I depress it a few times to change gear, it recovers. I was preparing to put a new clutch in towards the end of the year anyway as the pedal seems high but i need an opinion on the fault. Also it intermittently doesn't go into 1st gear! Only intermittently though, i have to retry and usually 2nd or 3rd time it slides into gear as it should. Same thing happens in reverse gear (which is the 1st gear but backwards i believe). It's a 2003 1.6 Zetec petrol and these are the only niggles on an otherwise fantastic car, like a Bentley compared to my old Corsa! Thanks in advance. One love
  18. Hi everyone A few weeks ago the white push rod snapped on my ford focus. The main reason was because the spot weld on the clutch pedal had failed and the push rod was forced sideways and snapped off. The AA man managed to do a temporary fix on the side of the road. He said that I would need to get the pedal re-welded which is what I did this morning. I was hoping naively that i would be-able to get the welded pedal back in place fairly easily.. :( I failed; I could not get enough room to get the plastic plunger to push onto the pedal!!! So I thought that I would try and undo the 4 nuts securing the pedals to the floor. Three of the nuts are easy to get at, the fourth upper -left hand nut I cant get a spanner on. Can anyone tell me how I can easily get at that nut to remove it. I dont know if it will help me but I also thought that I would try and remove the blue/red connector (what ever that is) but could not get it off???? . Should it twist off anti-clockwise or is there some other way of getting it off? I'm not sure if this will let me gain access to the nut anyway? I know that I could be the lack of tools, but I think that it is probably more likely lack of knowledge and hands that are not deleterious enough. Please see the attachment for a picture of my predicament. Any suggestions or help most welcome Thank you!!!!
  19. Hi Ford Owners, I'm wondering if there's anyone who knows a bit more about the specifications of the 12v Cigar Lighter in the front of the new Fiesta's. My plate is '14 if that's any reference. In my mother's model before this one ('60 plate), I used a cigar to USB adapter to charge my phone while it was running satnav in the car. It was perfect, the power output to charge was more than the current discharge, so my phone always left the car at 100% charged. The adapter I use is a 12v 2.1A USB output, and the cable I use has enough bandwidth to supply my phone with the full power. In the '60 Fiesta this worked fine. (Link to adapter) http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004A7ZFO0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The same adapter however doesn't seem to supply enough power to counter the discharge in my '14 Fiesta though. I'm wondering if they've changed its output to ~1A now due to the term change to "Accessory Socket". Does anyone have any more information, or is it safe enough for me to shove a multimeter in there to see what it's outputting? Or are there any more tips and tricks I should be looking for with the socket? Thanks, ~Zion
  20. Engine Systems Fault message appeared on dash then showed Low Speed Mode. Massively reduced power and engine sputters. Garage read codes p2110 and p0607. P0607 is where a malfunction is detected in Engine Control Module. P2110 is Throttle actuator control system forced limited rpm. Advice would be greatly appreciated. What is worth checking before going down the route of replacing expensive replacement parts which may not be the root cause? If the ECU and/or throttle body are going to be replaced in an attempt to resolve, which is best to try first?
  21. Brakes, Bit Of Travel ?

    Right had my [new to me] Mk 2.5 Titanium, and liking it, especially the keyless entry /starting. Now first thing I noticed was when you hit the brake pedal, theres a bit of travel in it before the brakes come, but when they do, they are keen. Now on my Mk2 [ engineering wise same car as the Mk 2.5] when touching the brake pedal brakeing was immediate, verying by the amount of pressure applied. Anybody else with a Mk 2.5 experiance this? or are your brakes like I described my Mk 2 brakes. Had it over to my mechanic. he give it a run and said it seemed fine. Thogh he said his brakes on his Passat behaved like mine. He said because in the course of his work he is in and out of alot of cars, he thought mine was not unusual. I still don't think its right. Anyway I'm going over to his garage tommorow, getting it serviced, all wheels off brakes inspected and cleaned, test brake fluid water contamination, may bleed. I like to check any car I buy brakes wise along with a service, so I feel safe belting down to Cornwall in May. I orded some front flaps off eBay [genuine Ford] £22.95 Monday, arrived yesterday fitted them today. Seem to be £35 inclusive of the postage everywhere else. Must say I'd advise anybody to buy front mud flaps for the Mk 2.5. Same as with the Mk 2, and even though Ford fit under sill and front of wing bottom protectors, 06 plate onwards. Mud just clogs the bottom eight inch of the wing , trapped between in whell arch protector and wing return lip. And whilst its in for those jobs, I'll give it a good undersealing on the under sills, where they are welded to the chassis. Any comments regards the brake pedal travel welcome
  22. Focus Mk 2.5 Petrol

    Right had my [new to me] Mk 2.5 Titanium, and liking it, especially the keyless entry /starting. Now first thing I noticed was when you hit the brake pedal, theres a bit of travel in it before the brakes come, but when they do, they are keen. Now on my Mk2 [ engineering wise same car as the Mk 2.5] when touching the brake pedal brakeing was immediate, verying by the amount of pressure applied. Anybody else with a Mk 2.5 experiance this? or are your brakes like I described my Mk 2 brakes. Had it over to my mechanic. he give it a run and said it seemed fine. Thogh he said his brakes on his Passat behaved like mine. He said because in the course of his work he is in and out of alot of cars, he thought mine was not unusual. I still don't think its right. Anyway I'm going over to his garage tommorow, getting it serviced, all wheels off brakes inspected and cleaned, test brake fluid water contamination, may bleed. I like to check any car I buy brakes wise along with a service, so I feel safe belting down to Cornwall in May. I orded some front flaps off eBay [genuine Ford] £22.95 Monday, arrived yesterday fitted them today. Seem to be £35 inclusive of the postage everywhere else. Must say I'd advise anybody to buy front mud flaps for the Mk 2.5. Same as with the Mk 2, and even though Ford fit under sill and front of wing bottom protectors, 06 plate onwards. Mud just clogs the bottom eight inch of the wing , trapped between in whell arch protector and wing return lip. And whilst its in for those jobs, I'll give it a good undersealing on the under sills, where they are welded to the chassis. Any comments regards the brake pedal travel welcome
  23. Fiesta Clutch Pedal Issue

    Hey guys just wanted to share this with you all. I have a Ford fiesta 2005 MK VI and recently my clutch pedal started to click, sometimes it would be fine and other times pedal went straight to floor. So I had it recovered to my local garage, and was told it is a common problem and was told to buy a clip from Ford, cost less than 50p. The garage fitted it for free as i'm a regular but guess what it didn't last 5 days, the clip failed. Again recovered to garage when they checked this time the shaft or connecting rod for the master cylinder had slightly worn hence the clip had come off, honestly this clip looked like it was made from tin foil it was that thin, you could shave with it that's how thin it was. I was then told that a hefty bill was expected as master cylinder and pedal assembly would have to be changed, I left to sulk and see if I can source parts myself thus reducing the bill, amazingly I found a seller on Ebay selling a clip, more like a locking ring that fits on the end of the shaft where the pedal attaches and bingo!!! it has only sorted the problem out for good, so far been on my car for around 5 weeks and still everything ok, im using the same clutch master cylinder and pedal and it cost less than £20 and best of all I fitted it myself in under 10 mins although it was a pain to get to. Just thought id share this with you folks I will send link here if it will allow me. I tried pasting link guess it wont allow me, but if you type on the search bar in ebay "ford fiesta pedal clip" it will pop up you get an allen key and washer and the ring. I hope this helps you guys.
  24. Own a Ford Focus Mk2, 56 plate 1.4l petrol, 18k miles. Purchased second hand a few months ago. No problems up until this week, when numerous warning lights would appear on the instrument cluster, and sometimes it would go into limp / restricted mode. I drove the car home (~ 2 miles). Part way, a number of warning lights on the dashboard lit up; engine warnings lights - both amber + red, ABS, battery, oil and a few others. Rev counter + speed needles drop to zero, and the odometer just displays dashes on both the trip + total mileage. Pulled over, switched the vehicle off and restarted a few minutes later. Two engine lights remain on. A few minutes later, did the exact same thing, except this time it was enough to put it into limp home mode (low revs, sluggish etc). Got it home, switched the vehicle off and restarted a few minutes later. Just the amber engine warning light appeared. I checked the dashboard DTC codes, which gave me: E197:Invalid data for vehicle speed (Invalid CAN message)E200: Invalid data for odometer (Invalid CAN message)D900: CAN communication. Bus fault receive errorE510: Missing or invalid security data to PCMTook the car into Ford for a diagnostic - they came back and said there was a single fault code pointing to the TPS / accelerator pedal position sensor. However, they couldn't reproduce the fault and kept the vehicle overnight to try it again on Friday morning. Still couldn't cause any lights to come up on the dash or for it to go into limp mode. Not surprisingly when I picked the car up and turned on the ignition, within 30 seconds the warning lights come up - exact same symptoms as above. Hadn't even put the car in gear or touched the accelerator. Turned it off, then on again, and the warning lights still come up. Depending on it's mood, sometimes most of the warning lights come up, other times it's just: - Engine cog - Engine - ABS They're now keeping the car and will re-diagnose over the weekend with their equipment. I know there are countless threads here and elsewhere about these problems. On older vehicles the instrument cluster was a known issue, but this doesn't apply to Mk2's. Is this just a TPS problem or something else? I'm surprised a faulty TPS would cause the instrument cluster to go crazy like it does. Is there anything else to check? Apologies for the essay - hoping that by writing out everything that's happened I might spot a pattern or something stupidly obvious that needs checking!
  25. Hello, The throttle body of my C-Max 1.8 Duratec makes a electrical whine when the ignition is on (it might do it while running too but I can't hear it over the engine!). Is this normal? Sign of impending failure? Video with the noise... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnwgbyKgT70 Matt