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Showing results for tags 'forums/air+filter+enclosure'.

Found 42 results

  1. Right so I want to change my Air Box to an Air filter on my Mk7.5 Fiesta Black Edition 140 - But I have noticed there is a air sensor attached to the unit if i fit an air filter will this cause me any issues if the sensor isn't plugged in? Cheers Ben_140 
  2. Please bear with me on this one. Until this week I haven't heard of a DPF. My last car was a 2010 1.4tdci Fiesta Edge, fitted with a DPF. My journeys mainly consist of trundling around town with the odd motorway run. And I had the Fiesta for 2 years and 8 months, and the only problem I ever had with that car was the rubber seals around the fuel injectors. There was not any other single fault. 2 months ago, I bought a 2009 1.6tdci Focus econetic. Reasons being i can't afford to run a petrol car with the cost of fuel and tax. And early this week, whilst doing around 60mph the engine lost a lot of power, and on the dash all that was displayed was "Engine Malfunction". I had no prior warning about this. So took it to my local mechanic, and he explained the issue, and cleaned it and now all is well. So I've done some reading about DPF's, and 9/10 people are saying to stay away unless you're on the motorway often, which makes sense considering how a DPF burns off the soot. But I'm a little confused/worried. My previous fiesta had 50,000 on the clock when I bought it, and I changed it at 60,000, and I never had a problem with the DPF. And this focus has 86,000 on the clock. So, what I would like to know, is, 1) Did I get lucky with the fiesta? 2) How long can a DPF go without cleaning just driving around town? 3) Will me taking it onto the motorway for 20 mins clear the filter? 4) If so, how often would I need to do a motorway run? Also, I have read that to begin burning off the soot in the DPF, the engine revs need to be around 2,500rpm. Which is a slight issue, as the other night on the motorway for about 3 miles, at 70mph in 5th, the engine revs only hit 2,000rpm. So, only hitting 2,000rpm even on a motorway, does that indicate that I have an "active regeneration", as opposed to a "passive regeneration'? I'm aware fundamentally, I've made an error in buying this car, I only buy diesel to keep the cost down, with tax and fuel. I'm just wondering, will everything be ok, if I take it for a high speed run say every 2 weeks? After discussing this with my father, he is under the impression that, I didn't have a problem with the fiesta, so it's likely that you will generally be problem free with the focus. After paying £200 for the DPF clean, I'd like to help the engine/filter as much as I can, I also have to consider, that I have no idea how the car was treated by the previous owner. Any help/advice is appreciated.
  3. Hi there just wondering if anyone can help me by showing the location of the "air box resonator" on my Fiesta 2011 1.25L Zetec ive had a small look to try and fine it but I thought it'd be best to ask some more knowledgable folk, if anyone could help tell me the location of the resonator it would be greatly appreciated, photos especially!  Many thanks, Luke
  4. Hi Everyone, I am planning on changing the Fuel Filter on the above car over the weekend and I have the good old Haynes Manual to follow, however I was just wondering if anyone knew of any good posts of this nature on the forum already or of any useful guides - a quick search didn't return anything? Any useful advice or things to watch out for etc also wouldn't go amiss! Also can anyone recommend a good Diesel Primer Pump - there are quite a few on Amazon, but most of them have less than brilliant reviews. Many thanks in advance! Glen
  5. Started out with a plan to install one of these custom fit 10"sub enclosures See link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-Mk2-Custom-Fit-MDF-10-Sub-Box-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Bass-/360623710681?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item53f6d921d9 There worth every penny very well built and perfect fit, Only problem was where to fit the AMP to drive the 10" sub within the enclosure, I've created two ideas both of similar design, I will now explain: After fitting the custom sub enclosure i measured the gap between the enclosure and back of rear seat: Measures 35mm free space :) I then measured the gap between the wheel arch and the back of rear seat when closed, Measures 15mm :) So i then purchased a sheet of 9mm MDF Folded down the rear seats and measured the length between the wheel arches Measures 1045mm :) I then cut the sheet to the correct width to fit inside the arches 1045mm An additional cut out is required along the bottom to allow the seat bracket sit in to the MDF panel Next i cut two slips measuring 25mm wide and 405mm long, The height of the main sheet has also been cut down to 405mm so as not to obstruct the seat retaining brackets These fit in between the wheel arches and the back of the rear seat as saw in images aswell as providing mounting surface for the 1045mm sheet: Now since there's 35mm depth available I added an extra slip of 9mm mdf around the three sides of the 1045mm sheet, Resulting in a triple layer edge and internal cavity of 18mm between the back of rear seat and the main sheet of MDF The internal cavity is purposly designed to house the relevant cables required for the amp or amps, The plan is to surface mount the amp inside the boot on the 9mm sheet, Drill corresponding holes for cables to pass through the sheet in to the amp at required locations this minimising the visibility of cables, Once completely marked out and drilled, The sheet will be wrapped in carpet matching that of the boot interior resulting in a professional finish with no visible cables. I chose to create a full width panel as my install involves installing two amps here's my specific plan: Purchased some paint to seal the MDF aswell as providing a rough surface for bonding the carpet. Sprayed two coats on the rear and one on the front Later Acquired some EvoStik Aerosol glue adhesive and a roll of AutoLeads acoustic carpet. There's plenty of carpet in one roll capable of covering two panels I cut the carpet to generous size, Sprayed glue on to carpet and panel then pressed both together; smoothing out the wrinkles Now fitted to the car the carpet is a perfect match to the existing factory finish ready for mounting amp while keeping cables hidden inside the cavity. Prior to fitting amplifier to the panel I purchased some aluminium bushings to use as washers Creating a gap between the amplifier and carpet for air to circulate cooling the amplifier Sat amplifier face down on inside of panel to mark out the corresponding holes Drilled out markings Amplifier now mounted in position with all cables terminated at the rear of the panel Mono amplifier, 1 fared capacitor and 10" sub enclosure added. Still enough space for a buggy 👍 Thanks for viewing and hope this helps
  6. Ok so let me get this started by saying this job is an annoying one to do but I was getting a weird smell through my vents and thought to start with the cabin/pollen filter and thought whilst I was there to make a quick guide as I couldn’t find any with decent pictures Filter I bought - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201257781381 Dimesions: 34 x 209 x 230 Tools Required 7mm Socket 13mm Socket T20 Bit Flat Head (Might not need it) Step 1 Clear out any contents that you have in the glove box as it needs to come out as the filter is in behind it. Step 2 There are 3 plastics tabs that are covering 3 screws mines just popped away using my hand although a flat head screw driver would come in handy for any ones that won’t budge. Step 3 After that you will need to remove 7 screws using the T20 Bit. Your glove box should just pull away, keep an eye out for the little hook at the top as this is what the glove box uses to keep it shut and with the screws removed the metal bracket will not be held in place. Step 4 With the main part now out you will then need to just unhook this plastic part should come away easily. Step 5 The 2 hinges should then just pull away don’t be afraid to give these a little tug. After this you glovebox door can be removed. Step 6 Now that we have the glovebox completely out we should start with the cover that holds in the cabin filter. This bolt requires a 7mm socket and is at the bottom you should be able to get to it through the footwell. Step 7 We now want to unclip the fuse box using the little tabs so that we can access the bolts that holds on the metal bracket which the fuse box sits on as this metal bracket is in the way of the cabin filter cover so need to be removed before we can get the old filter out. Step 8 I got a little ahead of myself and forgot to take a picture of the 2 bolts although you should get the idea. These 2 bolts require the 13mm socket. Once removed you will need to wiggle the fuse box off the bracket and get the bracket out of the road. Step 9 With the metal bracket out the way all you need to do now is remove the 2 (7mm) bolts and the cover should then just come away. Step 10 Forgot to take a picture at this point but you should now be able to see your old filter all you need to do is remove it. It can be a little awkward with some of the cables nearby but can be done if you take your time. This is the picture of my old filter the camera makes it look better than it was but it was completely black and looked like it had never been changed even though I bought this car with a full dealer history. After this just put in your new filter and follow this guide in reverse. Took me around 30 minutes to do it and that was my first time doing it. Hopefully the pictures are clear enough if not I do have them in high quality. Once I get the zip file uploaded somewhere I will add the link in.
  7. Which Induction Kit?

    Hallo Together, i am thinking about changing the standard air filter with the performance one. I ended with two options: K&N 57S-4000 Performance Intake Kithttp://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=57S-4000 or J1's Ford Focus Mk3 Air Intake Kit http://j1automotive.co.uk/shop/focus-mk3-air-intake-kit/ Well i already know about the great manufacturing quality of the J1 intake kits but is it worth the extra money comparing to K&N? Thank you in advance for any opinions or personal experience :)
  8. I want to post this thread because I recently came to this site as a new member, hoping to have found the answer I was looking for to my own Ford problem, but without success. There were many similar threads and I take my hats off to those Ford owners who made the effort to post some help and advice for others. However, I hope that my specific thread will be of help to those drivers with the same model Ford as mine. I own a 2005/55 plate Ford Focus 1.6 VTC Petrol 2 Door, of which I am extremely proud. Two weeks ago I had her serviced, ...which brings me on to the subsequent issue I had. 3 days after the car was serviced, the Crankshaft Position Sensor failed and my mechanic was not available to do the job due to being on hols. I had been told that it wasn't a big job and to try and do it myself. I turned to this sight for help, but none of the threads applied to the year and model of my Focus. The good news is, the job has now been done....by me, and I want to share with other Focus owners my experience in replacing the sensor. I did buy the Haynes manual to assist me with locating the sensor (I have limited mechanical knowledge), but moreover I want to share with others how I did the job and what issues I had to overcome. Firstly, to do this job you will need a new sensor (obviously), a small torch, a good strong trolley jack, an axel stand (safety first), a socket set and an 8mm socket. However, as I later explain some of the issues I experienced, I would also suggest having a swivel head socket, or a short shaft 8mm spanner. Next, to locate the sensor on this model, jack up the car using the jacking point just below the driver's door, as the sensor is positioned just left of centre at the base of the block, and after putting a suitable axel stand in position lower the car onto the axel stand for stability. I would also leave the trolley jack in place for added safety. From the front of the car, poisition yourself underneath and look for the oil filter. From the oil filter look up to the crank casing (approx 4-5inch upwards) and you will find a blue coloured electrical connector block sitting slightly inwards in the crack case. This is the sensor connection, and you will need to remove the connector block before you attempt to dismantle the sensor from the crankshaft. To disconnect this, on the connector block you will see a very fine spring wire...press this inwards towards the crank case to unlock the block and slip off the connector. With the connector removed you will now be able to clearly see the 8mm bolt head that connects the sensor to the crankshaft. This is where a swivel head socket or a short shaft 8mm spanner may be useful, because as the crankshaft case comes accross the back of the sensor, on this Focus model the crank case bevels outwards, thus limiting the room you have to put the socket with ratchet handle headlong onto the bolt. An extension on the socket head would have helped me, but because this sends the socket handle backwards, the turning of the socket is then limited by the Oil filter. The easisest way would have been with a short shaft 8mm spanner, as this would have slipped neatly onto the bolt, but I didn't have one of these, and the longer handle spanner I had was limited in turning by one of the water hoses running off the base of the engine. If you only have a fixed ratchet handle then you will have to be prepared for alot of short bolt turns because of the limited room to turn it. Once you have loosened the bolt enough, you can get your fingers in and turn it by hand until it is completely out. Now the sensor is free for removel....take hold of it and slide it backwards, out of the Crankshaft and compare it with the new one to double check you have the correct one for replacement. Now you can fit the new one. Carefully slide the sensor into the crankshaft, being careful not to knock or drop it, as this is a 'one time fit' part. As you slide the new sensor into place, be sure to align the bolt head connector up with the thread hole. Use a torch to try and see that it is in line before offering up the connecting bolt. Gently rubbing some fine grease or WD40 onto the connector bolt will help with lubrication. Offer up the connecting bolt and slowly turn it into place by hand as far as you can go. Now revert to finishing off the tightening with the ratchet/spanner, depending on what best suits you. Tighten it up until the socket or spanner won't move without forcing it, but be careful not to over-tighten. Finally, slide the connector block back onto the head of the new sensore and you are done. Jack the car back up off the axel stand, remove the axel stand, and then lower the car back down off the jack. I am hoping to post some photos to this thread as soon as I can find my camera cable to connect to my laptop, but I can honestly say that for a novice mechanic, this job is more fiddly than difficult. I hope this helps someone else, and good luck with any general running repairs that you may have.
  9. Hey guys, Which is the best air filter for my car? Here's what I found on ECP but im unsure which one would be best, I dont want to buy poor quality products. All help is much appreciated. http://www.eurocarparts.com/air-filters?awc=3997_1445019491_b52f9784e48398367a454be5928154dc&utm_source=Skimlinks&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=ecp+homepage&utm_content=awin+traffic&utm_campaign=Sub+Networks Thanks :)
  10. ive done some research on the internet prior to choosing the correct brand of replacment induction filter, most would assume that the best choice to be K&N but i have found Green Cotton Air filter to have the edge over K&N or PiperCross due to Green's manufacturing process being more hands on instead of automated manufacturing. the green filter in bonded with precision to the frame of the filter the results are more air flow in to the filter where K&N use an automated process resulting in over use of bonding glue to the frame of the filter which can spread across the panel restricting flow and performance of the filter leaving is performing less than K&N's original prototype that they use to get their gains figures from. but anyways enough of me blabbing on about the differences, because the information is available on other websites for all to view without me re-typing it lol. to purchase a Green Cotton performance induction filter for your ford and feel the difference for yourself log on to http://www.priracing....php/144/1/ford and get 10% Discount off your Green Cotton Performance filter by using the code FORDOWNERSCLUB10 you can also get 20% Discount off any Ritchbrook branded stock by entering Discount Code: RICHBROOK20 both offers are eclusive to members of fordownersclub.com special thanks to Ross at Priracing for this kind offer. So here's whats in the box for the focus 1.6TDCi induction filter. Ive decided to upgrade the standard ford induction filter in my 1.6TDCi focus to a free flowing high performance induction filter. and since i was changing it ive decided to create this guide to show others what is envolved aswell as report on the performance difference between the stock and aftermarket direct replacment air box filter. fitting time takes around 15-20 minutes, Tools required are an 8mm socket and a pair of rubber latex gloves So Open the bonnet, remove the battery cover if fitted. and using the 8MM socket loosen the 4 bolts that are holding the lid of the induction box in place. please note the bolts do not pull free/seperate from the lid, they remove from the bottom section but stay inside the lid section by design, Once lid has been removed you will see your heavy stock ford filter, hopfully ford wont have bent your stock filter when putting it in their as they have done with mine. place your hand on the top end of the filter and pull upwards to remove it. once removed, ensure the lid from the induction box aswell as the 8mm socket are stored off of the engine bay and close the bonnet if you are planning to wait a couple of minutes prior to fitting the new filter. this will help prevent any contamination getting in to the induction pipes.
  11. Chewed Screw Head

    The screw that holds the cover of my cabin filter housing has had the head chewed up pretty bad and I can't unscrew it to change the cabin filter. Any suggestions on how I can get it off/out?
  12. Just wondering where abouts is the oil filter on my 2008 1.8 TDCI and what's the best way to get at it? Also if I am changing the fuel filter, is there anything I need to do (i.e bleeding the line) or can I just swap filters out?
  13. Hi im new here but just joined because i need advice please. I've recently had the DPF static regenerated but at the same time the reading for the fuel delivery pressure was low so I bought a fuel filter £42 and fitted it myself ... All straight forward. .. i started the car fine and it it ran for 20 seconds i assume on what diesel there was in the rail but then stopped! It won't start again.i took the pipes off the filter and cranked the engine and there's no diesel coming out? Im at a total loss. Any suggestions would be much appreciated thank you.
  14. I have a 2013 Ford Focus Trend 2.0L LW MK2 TDCI diesel hatchback car. I want to replace engine oil filter by myself. Who know where the engine oil filter is located? Thanks in advance.
  15. K&n Panel Filter Any Good

    I've just been offerd a brand new k&n panel filter from a friend and just wanted to know if they are any good and won't ruin my maf sensor. It's free and won't cost me a penny. Thanks in advance all coments and expiriences will be apprieciated.
  16. Air Filter Fitting Guides

    Hello all, This is my first post. I've spent a lot of time researching this forum site trying to decide wether or not I should buy a K&N Panel or cone filter or a complete induction kit. I still can't decide... I own a MK5 fiesta zetec(-s?), 1999. First car and i've owned it for a little over 4 months now. I'm wondering if anyone has a guide to fitting an air induction kit please? Should I choose to purchase one, I'd like to know how to fit it in. I think I'm asking because there was discussions about finding your own cold air feed with an induction? Or cone I'm not sure... I understand the air filters don't add much power and to be honest, I'm not after much. It's also for the experience of getting my hands dirty in the engine bay and knowing how things work! Thanks for your help guys. P.s. I know there are numerous posts and topics about air filters but none of them give me the answer I'm looking for!
  17. Hi Changed oil and filter a few weeks ago, had problem removing old filter. Do not want same problem next year. Does anyone know what type/model number of cup removal tool I require for my car and where to purchase it from amazon or e-bay, not a lot of clearance to fit a tool, my chain type worked but was difficult. All help appreciated, Barry T
  18. Hello! I am interested in remapping my 1.0 125hp ZS Fiesta and I am between Superchips and Mountune MP135. The warranty is not an issue, nor the price (in my country, it is almost the same price). So, I would like to ask which is the best solution. When I say best, I mean, which one really makes a difference without causing any trouble, if not both! I think that I am more into Superchips. I have read most of the posts here, referring to Superchips and I think it suits better for me. Also, as I have read from posts, Mountune is not such a thrill. So, the questions: Does it pull for a (claimed) 150hp? Has anyone experienced any problems? What about the mpg during everyday, easy driving (dropped, same, increased)? If someone has experience with either of two remaps, please share your experience! I am also considering of fitting a K&N air filter! I understand that there are many topics refering to the same subject, but I think I haven't seen one with reviews from both remaps. All suggestions are welcome!
  19. Pollen Filter Change

    We have bought a new pollen filter for our Mark 1 Focus and are aware that incorrect installation can lead to rainwater ingress, but I get the impression it is a very easy job. At the moment the breeze from the fan even at maximum seems quite feeble - assuming the pollen filter is filthy how much of a difference will I see?
  20. Ford 1.6TDCi & engine malfunction - limp home mode. I drive a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X 1.6TDCi Estate, the Econetic version which on the whole is a very nice car to car. But this week I have suffered the dreaded engine malfunction warning light & the car goes into limp home mode. Stop car turn off engine, restart which resets it, but it happens again 100m up the road even if your trying to be very careful. When thi shappens on a motorway it's virually impossible to rejoin teh carriageway as you need to accelerate hard. As this has happened twice in 4 months the garage made some further calls to Ford who told them that the additives that supermarkets add to diesel are not the same as the additives big brands add to diesel. So although I'm doing nothing wrong buy using supermarket diesel when you mix it with big brand diesel it causes a "gelling" in the fuel which in turn clogs the filter which reduces fuel pressure which the engine does not like, hence engine malfunction. I've read other posts talk about having replacement injectors / new dpf's but this (i'm told) is all wrong. Also the problem is common only to 1.6TDCi engines as these have much finer filters (apparently). The technician said this was a "southern" phenomenon as the problem is rarely heard of north of Birmingham. Something to do with the cr@p fule we get in London. The additives are generally added from September to March so during this period the advice was to stick to one type of fuel or the other but do not mix. Has anyone else heard of this?
  21. ok going to be servicing our 2010 ford cmax 1.6 zetec. can any1 tell me the location of the pollen filter? I have done the pollen filter replacement on our focus mk2.5 1.6 zetec so is it in the same location and is the process the same as the focus? Thanks
  22. About a month ago my wife's 05 Focus 2.0 TDCi wouldn't start one morning and our local Ford garage changed the fuel filter and they stated that there was evidence of filings in the housing which could lead to the high pressure pump failing. Sure enough it cut out on her last week. I've sourced a pump and I'm halfway through fitting it and I'm slightly worried about what I've seen in the engine block.... The cavity that the pump fills doesn't seem to have anything there for the pump shaft to engage with, pump shaft being about 1.5" wide and 0.5" high... The pump is a Siemens... Is this normal?... Can I just install the pump as is or should there be something in the cavity to engage... Also found out that the 2.0 TDCi is notoriously difficult to get going again... Any tips? Thanks in advance...
  23. I was informed when I recently took my car for it's MOT that as of 16th Feb 2014 the regulations have changed regarding DPFs and Catalysts. Any car which is fitted with a Diesel Particulate Filter or Catalyst, as standard, when manufactured, must be fitted with said DPF and or Catalyst when tested. If it is not fitted with the required item(s) it will be deemed to have failed the MOT. I'm paraphrasing the official looking document my garage showed me. I think everyone should be aware of the change.
  24. Just A Genral Question

    Hi all, not sure if this is the right part of the forum to ask this, but ive ordered my 12" Kenwood 1200watt sub and matching amp. Just wondering if anyone has ever made a custom box for there estate? cheers
  25. Hi There!

    Hi all, I am currently driving in a 1.3 Fiesta Finesse which I have had for just over a year and I'm just looking for some advice on things to do to my fiesta to make look a bit cooler and general up keeping of my wee ford. Thanks for reading!