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Showing results for tags 'forums/auto+wipers+sensor+mk4+mondeo'.

Found 335 results

  1. Right so I want to change my Air Box to an Air filter on my Mk7.5 Fiesta Black Edition 140 - But I have noticed there is a air sensor attached to the unit if i fit an air filter will this cause me any issues if the sensor isn't plugged in? Cheers Ben_140 
  2. Hi guys, can someone throw me a bone here. Following a rather harrowing accident an object hit the front of my bonnet, the catch popped and the wind threw the bonnet back over and into the windscreen. Now the car's been a great runner, but it's worth less than a grand so the £400 excess to have it repaired wasn't economically viable. I've managed to get a replacement bonnet, new hinges and new support rams - all fitted without problems, but the latch mechanism is damaged and unserviceable. However the lock mechanism still works perfectly, so I've bought a new latch, my question is, how do you get the old latch mechanism out? Is it possible to undo the two retaining bolts and either lift out or drop out the old one without having to start butchering the lock? If anyone has changed out this unit and can give me some pointers that would be great. All the searches I've done turn up loads of things about bonnets stuck closed or unable to latch correctly but very little about actually replacing the latch, not the lock.
  3. Hi all. New to the forum and driving! Yesterday I put a deposit down for a very tidy 2007 Fiesta Zetec Climate with the semi-automatic Durashift transmission. I'm picking it up next week, very excited! :) Firstly, apologies if this is in the wrong forum section, I just a quick question: I test drove the car and really liked it and I've driven both manuals and fully automatics before. I just wondered what gear you leave this Durashift in when you are stationary. I've been taught to leave manuals in neutral and automatics in park when I am going to be stationary for a long time (i.e. arrived at destination or parking). Since this semi-auto doesn't have park but it does have neutral, I guess I leave it in neutral when I'm parked or have arrived at my destination? Thanks! Sorry for my silly question! ;)   
  4. Ok hi fellow ford owners! so just paid 3000 for a 2004 ford mondeo st220 3litre v6 and am having some issues that need adressing and are quite worrying!! Ok so its only done 85k miles all service history but problems am having are  1. When i turn right i get a loud high pitched squeel. 2. Its quite a moany engine and a little loud when it does in low revs 3. After warm when i stop can hear a very faint knocking noise from engine only happens when still  but works fine hoping its nothing major but any help would be appreciated thanks!! 
  5. Newbie From Dorset !!

    Hi All New member, Just purchased Mondeo 2012 ZBE
  6. Hi All, I thought I would try and make this more open to the public as Ford seem to be doing everything they can to not tell customers about this issue. I own a 58 plate (Registered 09) Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI Duratorq, since the car was new it has suffered from 2 issues. Issue 1 - While driving on the motorway the car will have intermittent hesitations when accelerating. This will usually happen then naturally allowing the car to decrease speed by taking your foot off the accelerator then applying it again. This can also happen when just cruising in 5th. Issue 2 - This cannot be replicated however randomly you can get a violent jolt forward with the error displayed on the dash "Engine Malfunction". The car will go into limp mode then when you pull over turn the ignition off, wait a minute and start again will be cleared and free to drive normally again. My car has been into Ford for this issue during its warranty period and after it expired to be told there were error codes relating to a particular injector however they were telling me all 4 needed replacing at £1500. The issue was so intermittent and could go months without it happening I have not yet had them replaced. I cover 350 miles a week commuting and can got weeks/months with no occurrences of this. Ford have never told me about a known issue with the injectors until recently when I took my car to the Ford dealership in Eastleigh, Hampshire. One of their service department told me they were aware of a known issue with a batch of injectors ending in the part number 3. While my car was in for diagnostics they advised all 4 of my injectors ended in 3 and would need replacing at guess what... you got it £1500. I argued that surely if this was a known issue with a bad batch Ford should replace these. They said not and the car is out of warranty so I will have to foot the bill. I asked whether there was any documentation on this however they said no, even their customer services director categorically told me nothing existed after checking with their service desk. I have since found out online and from help from the guys on this forum and other that there is in fact a TSB (technical service bulletin) released by Ford documenting which cars are affected and saying what I had been told about the injectors ending in 3. The TSB is TSB 27/2012 dated 14/05/12 and affects 1.8L Duratorq-TDCi (Lynx) engines between 2008/2009. It affects the Focus, Mondeo, C-Max, Transit connect and Tourneo. The title of the bulletin is "Excessive combustion noise and or hesitation during light load acceleration with the engine at high operating temperature". I don’t believe I can post the bulletin in full due to copyright however I can pm this to anyone interested. The bulletin states that there are PCM calibrations released to try and help the injector nozzle performance however Ford failed to tell me about the TSB or the PCM calibrations once in all the times my car was in for diagnostics. I have raised a complaint with Ford regarding this however they are unwilling to replace the parts at their cost, I have told them I am willing to pay for the labour however I don’t feel I should foot the bill for the parts given they were fitted from brand new faulty. I have so far got them to discount the price from £1500 to £1100 then recently a further 30% off this price. Still not happy as still leaves me with a £6-£700 bill to replace faulty parts they fitted. I would advised contacting Mark Ovende via this email address - movende1@ford.com He is the MD at Ford Motor Company. Mark will not respond however you will get a call back from the Ford Head Office. I was initially told they wouldn’t do anything however after continuous emails and phone called I have got them to discount the total initial quote by around 50%. It appears Ford are doing whatever they can to not tell customers about this issue so they have to pay out a fortune to replace parts that were not fit for purpose. Ford should issue a recall as this affects a lot of cars and is potentially dangerous. The fact they are not even telling customers there is a PCM update which could help is shocking, the go straight for the replacements instead. A free or £95 PCM update or £1500 to replace all 4 injectors....... disgusting. I want to try let as many people know about this as I can so they dont get lied to and forced into spending thousands when a PCM update might fix it. Ford should replace these parts at their cost not the customers regardless of warranty on the car. This whole situation has put me off buying another Ford especially from the dealerships I have dealt with. Regards Allister
  7. Hi everyone, I'm not sure if anyone can help me but I would be most grateful for any advice. I went out to my car this morning, it was iced up. I poured Luke warm water over the front and rear windscreen and then set my wipers going, I also sprayed some screenwash. Well the first couple of sprays and swipes from both wipers worked fine and then suddenly everything stopped. My first thought was that the fuse had gone. However. A very kind man (a customer at work) overheard me on the phone to a garage to check whether they stocked fuses and said he had been a mechanic for 20 years and would have a look for me. When he returned he said the fuses were fine. He didn't think it was the motor though, as the front, rear and screenwash had all stopped working. He mentioned a possible loose connection? Then when I spoke to a friend, he said that he still thought it could be the fuse - he had had fuses before which looked ok but had, in fact, blown. I hate to admit it but I'm completely broke at the moment so I was hoping it would be an easy fix. I also can't get my car to a garage until Monday and I'm working tomorrow so I could really do with it for then. With the snow though, I just can't risk driving without working wipers. Does anyone have experience of this problem? Or know of a possible cause and/or fix? It's a 2004 ford KA sport. (1.6 litre) I would be so grateful! Many thanks in advance
  8. Hello all! I'm having an issue with a 2002 Mondeo Ghia X, bought it at the beginning of last year but has created a problem of not always starting, it will always start first time but then if you stop, turn it off and come back within 5 minutes it just doesn't want to start. All of the dashboard lights and other stuff works fine it just doesn't want to tick over from time to time, it's very odd. I think it also has a Clifford alarm fitted, and I'm not sure if that is doing anything to cause the issue. It can be a real bother at times, if you stall at the lights sometimes it has not started at all, so it can be dangerous. It had the starter motor done a few months back so it isn't that.. Any ideas of what this could be? Cheers!
  9. Good afternoon, I'm hoping that people here will be able to help me identify some tubes and explain their purpose and whether I can replace them myself. Car is a Ford Focus, Zetec Climate TDCI, 1.8L Diesel, Estate. Please refer to attached picture. Tube A - Cracked through. Thin tube from Turbocharger to sensor? Makes noise similar to blowing through a straw when turbo is running. Does anyone know how I can find a part number, and if it's something I can replace myself (i.e. is it just a push fit or is it heat-shrunk). Tube B - Possible split on underside. Slightly thicker than tube A, unknown origin, runs parallel to a line saying containing fuel don't replace. Does this also contain fuel? What does it do? How easy is it to replace? Part Number? Any help/advice anyone can give about these parts, or guidance on how to find unknown parts that I haven't identified from my Haynes Manual would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  10. Temperature Gauge Erratic

    Hi My 09 tdci Mondeo MK4 has a strange temperature gauge issue. Sometimes it will appear ok (it never goes past halfway) but most other times not really. Usually it will warm up fairly slowly and only get up to halfway when at speed (60+), slowly dropping down to 1/4 or just below when encountering towns/traffic and driving at a lower speed, but occasionally it does spend most of the journey at halfway, but will never stay there. The car drives without fault apart from this minor issue and both heater and aircon work fine - there seems to be no noticeable effect if I have heat/aircon on or not. It has relatively newish coolant (usually at the right level or thereabouts). Any thoughts? I've had a quick look online and it seems it could be a trial and error job - possibly a faulty sensor/connection, thermostat (less likely) or the instrumnet panel itself. Thanks, semi-baffled.
  11. Hello I have a Mondeo which is making a whining/whirring sound, not just under acceleration (ie makes the same sound when foot taken off the accelerator), and is more pronounced at low speeds (10-35mph especially) - the sound resembles the noise some cars make when reversing at more than walking pace. It seems to be more a bit noticeable after 15 minutes into a journey. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  12. New Owner 2010 Titanium

    Hi, have just taken ownership of a 2010 Titanium, driving home I've had the shift from 3 to 4 crunch the gears, can anyone help? Its under warranty so its down to the garage to fix, so i would like to get it done asap. Also the CD rom for the sat nav is missing, I've had a look on eBay but there appears to be no 2010 disc available. Does anyone have the part number. The rear boot load cover is a bit shabby too, anyone with a decent unit for sals? Thanks in anticipation. Mik
  13. Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a new daily and I shortlisted my model range to either a Focus or a Fiesta. Since it is going to be a daily car I want it to be a diesel. The diesel engines I'm opting for are either the 1.4 tdci (DLD 414) or 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Fiesta or the 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Focus. Now I know that these engines are not all done by Ford but in some websites I read that Ford use Peugeot (HDi) engines and in others I read that these engines where produced together with Peugeot. So what I am asking is, is it true that these engines are only done by Peugeot and Ford source the engines? or it is a new engine that Ford designed researched and produced together with Peugeot? Please any sources in your answers are very appreciated since I want to see whether Ford are sourcing PSA engines or developing them with PSA. Thank You :)
  14. Blown Turbo

    At the end of a 200+ mile journey last night and 3 miles from home in our Mondeo Mk3 (2003) I suddenly lost power, then one up one hill too many a grating noise coming from the engine (like going over a cattle grid) then all hell as the engine went out of control with increasing revs and smoke coming from the bonnet as we all bailed out in fear that it was about to explode. The revving continued with the ignition turned off but almost at it's peak of revving suddenly stopped. Luck would have it that a local mechanic was passing at that precise moment - he got us home and the car now sits in his garage waiting for inspection. He was able to offer 'blown turbo seals' as an on-the-spot diagnosis and said that 9 times out of 10 that meant a new engine or the end of the car. I'm hoping then, while I await his full and proper diagnosis in the sober light of day, that someone might be able to give some hope to cling to. A fuller explanation of what might have just happened to my car... should we actually be just thankful that my wife, two boys, golden retriever and I are still alive... and if it is as common and unpredictable as the friendly mechanic was suggesting will I be able to drive a turbo powered car ever again?... Frightening, still shaken, everything that was in the car now stinks of burned oil and I have little idea what just happened. Any advice and positivity would be much appreciated at this time.
  15. Hey Guys, Hope someone can help and advice. I am driving a Ford Mondeo Titanium X Sport 61plate (build 2012) and it has the standard Sony Dab stereo installed as picture attached. However I want to change it to the sat Nav version. As attached. Would that be possible? Also can you confirm the latest sat nav from Ford can be installed as well. The new one has the parking buttons at the bottom and my ones at the top. The layout is different too. Please help. Been looking to change for a while.
  16. Hi all, I have a Ford Fiesta 2003 1.4 Durashift Automatic, the car has issues with 3rd gear. When driving the car will shift into 3rd gear but there will be no bite, almost like the car is in neutral. As you are driving the car will shift into 3rd but then you end up reving to the red line and there is no power. If you let off the gas and let the revs goes down the car will shift into 3rd gear and continue as normal. The issue only happens occasionally. Can anybody offer any advise on how to resolve this issue? Thanks!
  17. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete
  18. Evening all! TLDR: My mk3 TDCI is producing an intermittent rattling noise on idling, which disappears when I raise the revs slightly by depressing the throttle. Appears to come from the right-hand side of the car, and seems to be external to the engine. Any theories? The long version: This week I needed (i.e. badly wanted!) a new car to replace my battered 20-year-old Corolla. I ended up with a mk3 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, 115PS, 2006-plate hatchback in green. Great cosmetic condition, 136,000 miles on the clock, with no service history apart from last MOT (March 15), which it passed with a couple of advisories, one of which is the noise I'm asking about here. Okay, so I took a risk, but the car looks great, is much newer and better-equipped than anything else I could have afforded, and cost me just £450! It has a couple of issues, but I figure it's worth spending a bit of money to keep this one running. My theory is that the first owner was a business driver/high miler, as the car is in great condition and the passenger and rear seats have hardly been used. It then seems to have spent about 8 months in the ownership of a young man from a family of traveller types who own horses and buy and sell vehicles - but who don't seem to have done much maintenance or servicing on this car (evidenced by the fact that it needed a thorough cleaning inside and out after purchase, but scrubbed up great!). I was relieved to learn that the mk3 TDCI has a timing chain rather than cambelts. However, it appears that one might still need to check the condition of the timing chain (£200 bill?), and the replacement of the auxiliary belts is due at 125,000 miles (also £200 bill?). As I mentioned in my summary above, there is this metallic rattling noise when idling. It's not there all the time - usually takes several seconds of sitting at traffic lights for it to begin, and it comes and goes. It can be relieved by raising the revs slightly using the accelerator pedal, and also seems to vanish when the clutch pedal is depressed. With the bonnet up, the noise seems to be coming from the area of the auxiliary belts on the right-hand end of the engine. Everything seems to be working; it's just this noise. The car stops and goes just fine and has plenty of oomph. Worth pointing out: the car pulls to the left noticeably, pretty much all the time. This has not been cured by having the wheels aligned or replacing the tyres worn by the misalignment. The only time it has not done this is on a surface with a right-hand camber. The left-hand pull also occurs if I brake sharply (once the car has shed most of its momentum; it then kind of "digs" to the left just before coming to a complete stop, with the steering wheel twisting to the left). Whilst driving I find myself compensating, and at times if feels as if I'm fighting the steering a little. I don't remember having anything like this or noticing heavy power steering on the brand new TDCi estate I hired for a week whilst living in Germany back in 2002, which I put about 1,500 miles on - I was very impressed by that car, and that's one reason why I bought my current Mondeo. So I'm wondering if the rattling is anything to do with the drive to the power steering pump which in turn might contributing to the steering issue. Clearly the car needs an oil and filter change which I will probably do myself. A friend (trained mechanic) drove behind me yesterday and said he saw the odd puff of smoke - not sure how much oil it's consuming but it's in the middle of the dipstick, albeit quite black. Anyway, I'd be happy to clear up the rattling on this thread and investigate the leftward drift separately. PS To avoid wasting time with comments about the risks I've taken, can we please just assume I've done all the self-beatings and sleepless nights about buying a car with no service history from dodgy people - I've got good reasons for not wanting to put any more time or energy into looking for a car, and would just like to know what I might need to do to get this running as sweetly as possible (or indeed if the issue is one I can ignore safely). Over to you! Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
  19. Hello all, great forum here that I've been reading for a while. We've recently purchased a 2012 Fiesta Edge which we really love, but I am in the process of fitting some parking sensors front and rear into the factory positions. I have no issues with the fitting of the sensors, or with vehicle electrics etc. as I've done this many times - but I want that factory look in our 'new' car. I've ordered the 'Front Parking Switch' and bezel from Ford and it is exactly what I need. I've even managed to work out which pins provide a momentary action to engage the parking sensors but for the life of me am unable to get the backlight or 'on' light to work on the bench out of the car. I'm led to believe the multiplug for this bezel (which can also house the ESP switch and Airbag Off light) is present in all Fiestas. I'm hoping when I take the dash apart tomorrow I will find this plug and plug it in - if anything to get the backlight working. But does anyone have any experience with getting the 'on' LED to work, I'm guessing this would normally activate a Ford Module for the factory sensors, but I still cannot figure out on the bench how it illuminates the LED, even following the PCB tracks under a magnifying glass. If anyone has done this before (I guess not as I did try searching) and can help in any way that would be great! :)
  20. Hi all, Just joined this forum on behalf of my dad who is having a number of issues which we can not seem to solve, so any help here is much appreciated! Dad owns a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X Sport 2.0 Eco Boost Auto with 14k miles on the clock, owned it for about 2 years now. A couple of months ago the car started to play up where the key fob would unlock the car but the wing mirrors wouldn't open out, the push to start button would not start the car but the instrument display would show the Ford logo. AA man came round, disconnected the battery for about 10 mins then the car was ok and started up. Couple of days later same thing happened so dad did what the AA man did and was ok, but then the car wouldn't turn off! It is an Auto so couldn't stall it. Took it to Fords while running and the guys come out and agreed that it wouldn't stop. Eventually the car did turn off after pressing the on/off start button a few times. Left the car with Fords to investigate and they said that there was nothing wrong with it after doing the Vagcom/diagnostic checks etc. Paid about £300 for this so far. They gave the car back to us and it was ok for a day or so until the same thing happened. Ford then flashed the internal computer and updated all the firmware etc and the car was ok. Today (about 2/3 months later) dad went to start his car and nothing, the key fob wouldn't open the car and even using the internal key in the fob would not open the doors! Ford have said they have never seen this before and don't know what to suggest, so we have a car we are unable to get into. Dad has tried both key fobs and tried every possible thing we can think of. Has anyone on the forum experienced this before or have any ideas as to what it could be!? Any help/suggestions are welcome. Thanks,
  21. hiya im a new member as of today, im sorry if this is in the wrong section but i was wondering if anyone has got a cylinder head for the mondeo ive described in the title for sale? 2 inlet valves are bent on cylinder 2 and the head is warped so i cant find any decent excuse to refurb it. \if anyone has one layng around for sale please lt me know Cheers Bradley P.S. iirc the cylinder heads are the same for both 1.8 and 2.0 zetec lumps
  22. Can any one help. I have a 2006 mondeo tdi,130 ps with 210,000 miles on. I start it up and it's in limp mode,5 minutes down the road switch ignition off and on and it's back to full power,been doing this for months now.had the car plugged in and had 2 error codes. P0121 throttle pedal position sensor a. P132b turbo charger/super charger boost control a. I've changed both and still have the same error. Can anyone point me in the right direction. Thanks dave
  23. Repairing Front Bumper

    I have damaged the the lower part of front bumper by hitting a raised kerb. The visible damage is not much but the underside looks a mess. Are there any pictures available showing the various parts of the complete bumper assembly?
  24. Outside Air Sensor

    I have just bought a new style ford Mondeo and have been pleased overall however the outside air temperature display keeps going to -40c and the climate control then goes to hot. The dealer changed the sensor but after about 2 days the temp dropped to -40 again although did recover after about 15 mins. A 2nd visit and the engineer said it was just re calibrating itself and would settle down. However over the last few days the readings have again become erratic and once it goes to -40, it stays the same irrespective of C of F. Even the salesman hadn't seen this before as it dropped during a visit and I had chance to show him. Eventually the reading comes back to a more normal value. The garage is unaware of any issues with the sensor so before I go back, is anyone else having a similar problem?
  25. Hi guys, I have a 2001 Mk3 mondeo estate 1.8 Petrol. The drivers door got smashed and the barrel was destroyed and the car was stuck with all the doors locked. A locksmith charged me £120 to get the door open and make a new standard key, but still only the drivers door would open, the rest of the doors remain locked. I found a cheap door on ebay, so I'm hoping after putting that on, the other doors will unlock when I unlock that. The locksmith said that my remote key is ok and communicating with the car, as you can hear the clicking noise from the dash, when I push the buttons and if I hold down the unlock button, all the windows will open. I'm told the central locking module is in the drivers door, so that is obviously damaged aswell. So after putting the new door on, will i need to have the key re-programmed, or should it just work? Thanks