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Showing results for tags 'forums/boot+open+warning'.

Found 108 results

  1. Hi there, I'm new to this site, has anyone got a answer to my problem. 2008 1.8 tdci s max, when I turn corners with a tight steering lock my Abs/traction control warning light come on and don't go off until I switch the ignition off. There was a bracket under the o/s/f wheel arch fitted the wrong way round and was pulling the abs sensor wire when on full lock, but this has been turned round the correct way and the abs sensors changed in case it caused any damage. The abs and traction control are both working fine, it's just this !Removed! warning light that I have run out of ideas with. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ken
  2. Ford Fiesta Problem!!! Help

    Hellooo, I have a 1.4 diesel ford fiesta, which is 10 years old now. Recently it's started to cut off randomly, it feels as if the engine goes off for a couple seconds and then starts again. The battery light and the engine light comes on when doing this, but only for a second. It tends to do this when in 5th gear at around 50mph-60mph, which is around 2000rpm. The car has been in a garage all week and no fault comes up! Also, every now and again the 'transmission light'? (i think) comes on, (looks like a cog with a ! in) and goes into limp mode, where is makes it impossible to go over 5mph and very jumpy. Once i switch the car off and on again it goes fine. Has anyone had this problem before? Thanks in advance!
  3. Hi all I'm new to this forum so hello. I'm a fiesta zetec owner and have just bought my son his first car. It's a fiesta studio 2013 model. The petrol looks very low but no warning light has appeared. I know on mine it comes on just before I go into red. Please tell me that this model HAS a petrol warning light? I know it's a basic model but.... thanks
  4. Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011 Hi all, Not really much to do in this guide mainly because the chosen reverse camera kit is so good, Has taken a lot of work out of installing. So here's the Shopping list short and sweet: Reverse camera: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171231720467 If you're living in Ireland and wish to. Purchase this item; sign up to parcel motel and receive it for 3.75 shipping. See link: http://www.parcelmotel.com/ Here's what's in the box: Very nicely packaged and presented the kit is top quality and i really cant praise it enough :) It replaces the existing boot handle while incorporating the reverse camera in to the handle, This guarantees the camera is most definitely centre aligned on the rear of the vehicle aswell as quite discreet. Pre-crimped terminals ready for splicing in to the existing boot handle cables: And here's where it becomes worth the money :) The loom is separated in two halves by this bespoke connection: This makes things so much easier to install, Because you're not trying to fish a bulky yellow RCA plug through the rubber goose neck between boot door and main chassis :) Its a minute plug instead. So on the end of the loom is your RCA plug for the camera signal: This plugs in to the rear of your compatable headunit And the blue cable: This is a signal feed, it carries positive power from the reverse bulb to the headunit causing the headunit to automatically display the reverse signal each time you put the car in to reverse: Open Boot Door, Remove parcel shelf and store in safe place. Remove both torx screws in side panel: Useful to have a plastic bottle or something to store all screws in preventing them from loss : On the boot door there's two grab handles, Inside these handles are two torx screws; one in each pocket. Remove both screws: Now with one hand holding the metal boot door, Pull down the plastic panel with your other hand. Here's what's beneath: Now remove all six Nuts from iside the panel. This can be awkward when working over head, I suggest sitting in the boot on the sill, With your feet on the ground outside the vehicle, Bring the boot panel down on to your lap makes it much easier to work with, Also when removing these nuts; Count the rotations to removal This avoids over tightening when refitting the panel. Here's the nut locations: Left: Right: After removing the nuts there are two clips which grip in to the boot, These are quite brittle if they snap you can seal with a small amount of silicone sealant, There only there to assist alignment of the panel as the bolts do all the gripping. When the outer panel is removed you will see a rubber grommet like the one in the image below: It's possible to disconnect a plug inside the boot panel allowing full removal of the panel, Allowing it to be brought to a table for working with, Here's what the loom is like dissected from the panels: The single plug on far side of the rubber grommet is the one that's inside the boot panel. Unplug it and the whole panel is free to remove: At this point the standard electronic boot handle should be removed by unplugging it from the loom and squeezing the retaining clips from either side of the unit. Cut loom plug from the end of the boot handle loom: Strip ends ready for crimping on the new terminals: Ensure both cables are passing through the boot panel prior to crimping Insert one cable inside one of the red crimps and squeeze it tight with top of crimping tool. Repeat on the second terminal, It doesn't matter which terminal is crimped to which cable in this case. Following image is for illustration purpose: Working on this guide across the weekend guys, I've gotta back fill with images and some text, I didn't get the required images taken at the time of installation because it was so therapeutic to install. Ill edit across the weekend. Green&yellow feed is reverse positive:
  5. No Spare Wheel In Newer Fiestas

    Hi, I recently bought a 3-yr-old Ford Fiesta Econonetic from a dealer to replace my much-loved Ford Puma which I'd had from new until it had to be retired after 15 years. Not quite as oomphy as the Puma - which I'd have bought again were it still made - I like my Fiesta. Recently, whilst in a remote village 60 miles from home, a rear tyre was pierced by a piece of flint thrown up by a passing vehicle. This was the point where I discovered that there is NO SPARE WHEEL. Instead, there is a can of something that one is meant to put into the tyre and which sets, allowing the car to be driven, but only UP TO 10 miles. As a result, having left home early afternoon, I ended up coming home just before midnight on a tow truck.Thank goodness I had car rescue membership. I don't know when this "new improved" system was introduced so perhaps it's just worth checking that you actually have a spare wheel and not an aerosol.
  6. Hi All, Just bought myself a 56 plate Fiesta Zetec 1.25 petrol. Picked it up today and found that the red snowflake light is constantly on and the outside temperature is showing up as -36 degrees. I know that the dealer I bought it from steam cleaned the engine before I purchased it so I'm guessing this is whats caused the light to come on. Can anyone advise on the best course of action to take to rectify this and how much it may cost? Thanks!! Al
  7. Ford Focus Mk3 2011

    Hi all. I have the Focus mk3 zetec 2011 and the license plate bulb has stopped working. I have called gkford parts and they reckon i have to buy the entire boot release switch etc at a cose of £32 i have enloses a picture of the rubber sealed catch and would like to ask anyone if this is true or can the bulb just be replaced. dont really want to fork out £32 for all that when its just the damn bulb, pretty expensive bulb. or does anyone know if there is any online spares shop etc. thanks all steve
  8. I have the solid yellow engine light on the past two weeks. I had it checked with a scanner and the two issues that recur after the system is reset (it hadn't been scanned in a long time) are: 1. P1709: PNP Neutral Position Switch Out of Test Range 2. P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) I am quite technical/money poor right now so I'd like to learn to fix these myself. From what I've been told the cat is impossible to test (you can't open it, just replace it. Also, I have the feeling its not this as it passed its NCT/MOT 2 months ago and the emissions were fine - wouldn't they have caused trouble? As for #2 - I have absolutely no idea what that is? What is my best path to take if I want to investigate these errors myself?
  9. I've a Focus 1.6 tdci 2009 and I have a big triangle light up filling the whole display say 'Engine Malfunction' The car seems to be running fine and the engine sounds like it always did! I wondering why this light has come on and what I can do about it!
  10. I've just bought a 54 plate Focus C-Max 1.6 diesel. The previous owner told me that he has very recently changed the battery and since then there has been this beeping sound from the dash. It is a long beep that sounds for about 3 seconds every couple of minutes. Any suggestions on what could be causing it and how to rectify?
  11. Engine Malfunction

    I have a 2011 1.6 TDCI Focus I got the car with 40 something k miles on the clock I drove 100 miles a day for 6+ months its up at 66+k now. Until this point no issues it started first time every time not even a niggle. The closest thing to a problem I had was rear brakes jamming in cold weather. The car was serviced recently . One day I went shopping parked in a multi story and when I went back the car would not start. Eventually with a nasty noise (a bit like when gears change with a crunch but more metalic) it did start ran for a few seconds then displayed engine malfunction and would not start again. Called out recovery who sprayed easy start and got it going a few more times but each time the same thing happened. It was hit whilst being repaired and is in the body shop now. When it comes out and they take their courtesy car back I wont have transport and I cant just scrap it because its on Hire Purchase. Any ideas what the root cause might be. The garage it was at thought it may be the starter changed that out and the issue remains.
  12. LED Boot Light Install

    From the album Fiesta Zetec 2008

  13. LED Boot Light Install

    From the album Fiesta Zetec 2008

  14. Hi, I have a Mk1 saloon which appears to be leaking water into the boot. Small amount of water is dripping on the carpet. When I put my hand under the lip on the passenger side (around the area where the pulls are to drop the rear seat) it comes back wet. My mechanic has had a look and can't figure out if the rear screen is letting water in (so it's running down inside the car and coming around the join) of if the seem that sits just above is letting water in. It worse when it's been washed, and oddly when opening the boot the entire back half of the lid is covered in water droplets (my first thought was that the seal around the boot had gone). My mechanic, when testing tried blowing air up from inside the car to see if any bubbles appears around the rear screen with no luck. My mechanic thinks the rear screen might break if we take out and re-seal, but there is no guarantee this the cause. By the way, it's not coming from the light cluster - totally dry around both of these so 100% not leaking rear lights! Anybody else had this problem or any ideas on where else it might be coming from? The car is good condition and has only mid 50k miles from new so don't mind spending some money on it, just want to make sure it's not wasted! Thanks
  15. Hi all, Curious to know if anyone can offer any advice/support. I've had my Kuga Titanium X 2.0 Diesel for 6 months and i'm having so much trouble with constant 'Engine Malfunction' red triangle warnings. Has been in and out of the local Ford garage 5 times now, plus 2 RAC call outs. Every time, by the time they have come to look at it, the fault clears so nothing shows up on the diagnostic. However clearly there is a problem as it keeps doing it and have been been told about the same problem on a friends. So far have have paid out for 3 diagnostic reads, cleared fault codes 3 times, and replaced DPF sensor - none of which seem to have helped so I can't even tell if that was money well spent. Despite having read some forums and had some advice from an RAC friend about faults, Ford keep telling me there's nothing wrong with the model, and I seem to be banging my head against a brick wall. Typically it's out of warranty. The final straw the other day was when it juddered to a halt in when I was on a main road on my way to work, causing total chaos as I just couldn't do anything with it. As an automatic it doesn't take a car expert to acknowledge that, that isn't right. So, any advice welcome. At least if I can show the 'all denying' Ford garage there are some common faults it might make them do something a bit more helpful than just plug it in to a computer and tell me it's fine! :-/ Thanks for any help you can offer Neil
  16. Okay all, I know this is a well known issue with the Ford anti-theft and anti customer cannot access your bonnet issue but I wonder if there's a really good fix for this? My 04 Cmax TDCI has the "lock doesn't work" issue, I've replaced the plastic part with OE and it did it again so found a longer "boden" I think they call them on ebay and fitted that but it soon came back. Something is moving within the locking mechanism causing it all not to unlock. Is there a complete kit to replace with a fool proof repair? Not just changing for a new replacement of the same crappy design?
  17. Guide: Fitting Boot Door Tow Strap Ford Focus Mk2 and Mk2.5 I've created this guide to show how one of these Tow Straps can be fitted as a boot pull handle, Which in my opinion is functional, modified appearance and adds a new twist to the use of this increasingly popular item. A detailed background regarding the original purpose of these straps is viewable in the first post below this guide. I've purchased a Blue SPARCO branded Tow Strap from eBay Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171845269997 Tools Required: T25 Torx, Dremil Style Rotary Tool, Small drill bit head, Masking Tape, Pencil, Set Square or Ruler, Roll Gaffer Tape, First Step, Open the boot door, Remove the parcel shelve, Then using a T25 Torx; Unscrew the panel retaining screw from both pockets in the panel as saw in images below: With both screw's removed; Place one hand on the metal boot door, Place other hand in the pocket of the plastic handle and pull downwards, The panel will unclip as saw in image below, this separation process makes a lot of noise when the plastic is unclipping. Repeat the grip and pull process on the opposite side to remove the plastic panel completely. With the panel now removed, Lift out the green insulation pad and set it to one side, Using masking tape, Apply a strip to the area slightly above the drivers side pocket inset of the plastic handle, Draw a line that is within close alignment with the top of the pocket insert; Line up the metal bracket of the tow strap with the centre screw hole of this pocket, Mark out the width you require the slot to be. When the markings are exactly as you would like; Obtain the Dremil Rotary tool and cut out the markings, Trial fit the metal bracket and adjust slot to size as required, NOTE: the panel is quite flexible meaning the Tow Strap can be squeezed through a small slot rather than boring bigger try work it through as small as possible. Remove masking tape followed by; A few fire lit matches held closely above the cut slot will gently melt the rough edge that's left behind from cutting the slot, Also; My initial plan was to sandwich the metal bracket of the tow strap to the space between the plastic pocket on the panel And The metal bracket of the boot door as saw above; The alignment is correct in such way the Tow Strap bracket hole is in alignment where the Torx screw would secure it like a washer between both panels, This plan proved to be 100% possible, However i became concerned that the tow strap metal may rub off the boot panel metal bracket causing the paint to strip and rust, End result. As a precaution i used a series of small Gaffer tape strips to hold the Tow strap bracket secure to the inside of the panel which performs just as good without any risk of scuffing paint. Whichever mounting option you choose A: fit to Torx screw like a Washer, or B: Secure Bracket with Tape At this point its time to refit the foam padding, If fitting the Tow bracket to the Torx screw; a Stanley blade is required to cut a slot in the foam allowing the bracket to easily pass through. Refit the foam padding, Return to the car offer up the plastic boot panel, When aligned correctly; slap the panel in to place using the palm of your hand while gripping the metal boot door in other hand, Refit the two T25 Torx retaining screws in to the bottom of the plastic panel !Removed! in until hand tight. Job Done, B) I hope this guide has helped you achieve desired results, You may also like to view my full list of guides can be viewed on my profile page: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/user/14733-lenny/ Or If your using the forum App follow this link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/68214-full-list-lennys-guides/
  18. Hi, Im new to the forum as figured somebody may have had one or some of the issues i am having and may be able to point me in the right direction to fix without spending if i dont have to. i, passenger side electric wing mirror no longer working (drivers side fine and working off same switch) & have checked fuses ii, Electronic boot release switch inside the cabin no longer works to release boot (Have changed switch) & recently will not open from the key fob either iii, cigarette lighter randomly stopped working. changed to new power unit but there is no power getting through at all Im no mechanic but do have a basic understanding of how things are changed etc but im lost as to why the above has happened. Any help or ideas would be great! Thanks!!!
  19. Hi. I've got a Fiesta Mk6 with electric boot release, key fob and dashboard button both of which have stopped working. I can still get in to the boot using the key. Looking at it when i press the button on they key to open the boot the latch moves but not enough to open it which is where i believe the problem to be!! Any suggestions to fix it would be great :)
  20. Hi Guys, I've recently purchased a 2004 KA 1.3 Collection for the other half, it's in really good condition for a 04 plate but does has a couple of small annoyances (for me anyway !) Both the bonnet and boot Ford badges are missing, I know I can pick some up from eBay but can anyone confirm if both badges would be the same size, or is one smaller than the other .. I only picked the car up last night so haven't had a chance to measure. Any help or advice would be greatly received. Thanks.
  21. Desperate for help from UK Ford owners.. I am in Russia and my girlfriend owns the car. She keeps having the visit the Garage and they are now charging to extinguish the orange light - saying she is buying 'bad petrol' She is buying the recommended fuel. Could this be true - or is it a common fault ? Car drives fine I am now IN Russia and ready to go to the garage to ask why a car under warranty - needs to have paid work done. Is my g/f being 'diddled' and treated as if she is a dumb blonde ? )))
  22. Tps System Question

    Hi, Over the last few days I have had the check tyre pressures warning come on, before going back off. It will then come back on again sometime a couple of mins later, before going back off. Clearly I checked the tyre pressures at the garage and all seem to be ok, so I am a little confused. I was thinking maybe this is picking up some slow puncture? However, if this is the case is their any way of working out which tyre is causing the issue? Maybe I am missing something really obvious here when it comes to finding out which tyre is causing the issue?
  23. Hi Guys & Gals, I have a problem with my Ford Escort Van 2001 Model. I had my lights warning buzzer working a treat along with the interior light upon opening the doors. I shorted out the interior light to the roof whilst I had the drivers side door open when re-fitting it. As soon as this happened the drivers side door no longer activates the light and buzzer. However, the passenger side door does activate the light AND strangely the buzzer. I know the door switch pins are a common fault and so I switched the known working one from the passenger side to the drivers side and vice versa.... the known working switch wouldn't work on drivers side BUT the drivers side switch worked in passenger side. So I now know the switches are BOTH fine. Any ideas? Bearing in mind both switches are fine from the above test, the buzzer is working as it activates via pass door and the light works as it activates via pass door.... Strange one. Thanks in advance
  24. Engine Warning Light

    Hi, I'm very much new to this site, but my recent problem is not a new thing with this car. About 30mins after refuelling my car, the engine warning light came on and, aside from what smelled like burning, there's nothing seemingly wrong with the car. I've done the dashboard test and three codes were spat out 9600,9601 and D900. Is there a way to fix this without costing a fortune? Generally wouldn't be a problem but in less than 12 months after getting this I've had to replace the wheel bearings, cat, exhaust twice, clutch and other niggles, which is sad because the car is very comfortable and a pleasure to drive.... But still thinking I should've kept my old Fiat Brava lol, had no problems with that. Please help if anyone can?
  25. Just got car, under the front lip of boot there is a cable connector in the polystyrene packing, anyone know what this is?