AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/cmax+leak+water+pipe'.

Found 139 results

  1. Hi. Just bought a mk5 fiesta. I just noticed a wet boot. Any ideas ?
  2. Hi this is the first I have used a forum, I'm a typical girl not the best with cars but the back passenger side carpet is wet no other carpet is wet. I have a ford ka 60 plate it's a 3 door. Any suggestions of what I can be done or is this an expensive repair? I have read that garages don't like this type of repair as there is a lot of work :(  appreciate ted any help thanks 
  3. REplacement Key HELP

    Hi, My wife lost all out spare keys, been quoted 200 for each (one ford, one citroen). Anyone know if I could just get of these: http://www.carkeyhelp.co.uk/products/Ford-Focus-C%252dMax-transponder-key-HU101T.html Then get it cut and program it myself? Is this possible?   Thanks!
  4. Identify A Part, Please

    Hi, Please have a look at the photo of my drivers footwell with the carpet up and note the lovely mould! This is from a water ingress that has been happening for some time now. I think I may have identified the culprit - please can someone tell me what the black pipe as indicated by the big arrow is - I believe it may be leaking and this could be the issue. Thanks, John
  5. Water Ingress Issue

    Apologies in advance for the long post however I thought it best to try and include as much detail as possible!! I am hoping someone is able to help / offer me some advice. For the past 6 months or so I have had a issue which results in the carpet in the front passenger footwell of my C-max becoming wet or very wet (sodden) with water. I took it to the garage back in August and they checked the pollen filter as this is a common cause of water leaking into the cabin. They also noticed that the scuttle panel on top of the windscreen was a bit loose. It appeared to have previously been taken off. They found quite a number of leaves in between it and the windscreen. Whatever they did appeared to have resolved the issue as no more issue over the following couple of months were noted. I was very happy! This period however did co-incide with a quite lengthly dry spell in the region that I live. Later in October when the rains returned the problem became apparrent again, in fact it seemed to have got worse! When the problem is at its worse water also appears in the storage cubby hole behind the passenger front seat. Note that the car is parked nose facing forward on really quite a steep drive and I think that when enough water accumulates it flows over the ridge in the floorpan under the front passenger car seat. Disappointed I returned the car to the garage and they checked the pollen filter and the scuttle panel again. They conducted some additional tests using a hosepipe trying to identify where the water was coming from but to no avail. They suggested that replacing the front door seal on the passenger side might resolve the issue but they didn't seem particularly confident about this so I was particularly happy to spend more money on just their hunch. I thought I would try and locate the cause of the water ingress myself. I have pretty much ruled as the aircon drain being blocked as it is rarely on. A couple of other things to note which may or may not be significant. It is often the case after a period of moderate / heavy rain that when I open the front passenger door a lot of water drains out of the middle drain hole at the bottom of the door - i didn't understand why this was happening, however upon closer examination there did appear to be minor blockages in the other drain holes. I cleared these with a coat hanger and this seems to have resolved that issue. In fact I thought it may have resolved the issue completely as when it rained heavily last Sat the carpet did not become wet. However the day following the carpet was wet actually very wet :-( I have remove two soaking wet towels from the footwel of the car in the past few days. The wetness does not smell, so I am guessing that the problem is not related to the pipe that carries screen wash to rear window. Interestingly (well not very) if you split the footwell carpet into 4 equal portions then by far the wetest portion in the bottom left hand corner. One other thing when I returned home the other day I noted that there was quite a large patch of water on the driveway. It was probably about 3 feet long and 6" to 12" wide. I am familar with the small puddle of water that can be seen from the aircon drain however this was much larger and not something I can recall seeing before? I was thinking that I may need to remove the carpet to try and find the leak - not sure how easy this would be?? Does anyone out there think I should have the door seal replaced? I Would love to hear from anyone who has a experienced a very similar issue to mine as this is beginning to drive me mad, particularly with regards to the constant musty smell. Thanks and kind regards Simon
  6. Hi All, I have a 2011 Ford Focus Titanium X 2.0 TDCI (163ps) I am looking at getting my cambelt changed and water pump soon and just wanted people opinion on when to get it done or if you have same car when did you get it done? Ford Eits says 125,000 or 10 years. I am currently at 98,000 and taking it in for its 100,000 service soon. I do a lot of motorway milage around 25,000 a year and it has always been serviced at Ford dealers. Thanks for your help :)  
  7. Hi all, I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one, Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results. Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item. Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates. http://www.ebay.ie/itm/EGR-valve-blanking-block-plate-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-FORD-VOLVO-1-4-1-6-HDI-TDCi-DDiS-/170912771190 This guide is now available to download in pdf format making it eaier to print or share, See link to download: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/62546-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine-pdf/ Tools Required: 16mm Socket 5/16 Socket 8mm Socket 13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted) T30 Torx screw driver T20 Torx screw driver Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how, But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best. . http://m.youtube.com/?reload=9&rdm=ticq739n#/index?&desktop_uri=%2F Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel. Once unclipped; Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car. Next step is to remove the panel beneath also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel. Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car. When screws are removed from the panel; Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear: when removed: Store in a safe place until replacing on the car Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine, Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?" Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block. This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!! This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler, Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber. Now to fit the EGR blanking plate; You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts. Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler" And The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block, This is a case of trial pulling Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate. See in the image below this text: The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange, I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate, So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate, This is best for a good seal. Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine In to the left. Very easy, Just hook on to the top bolt And Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself. Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve, Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate. Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up Followed by the nut on the egr cooler. Here is the blanking plate fitted: Now to replace the panels Ensure the seals are free from dirt Also check the top panel under the windscreen, It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal. .. All back togeather You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range, Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little) Engine idle is quieter Exhaust smoke doesn't exist Your induction system now takes in clean air only No carbon in your induction Less engine oil contamination All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting, Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated. Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though. Well worth every penny and more! By far the best modification on the car to date. Diesel Engines with an active or once active EGR Valve suffer heavily from carbon deposits contaminating the engine oil, These carbon deposits operate much like cholesterol in the human body gathering in the arteries of the heart; These carbon deposits mix with the oil and turn to sludge which slowly gathers in the turbo oil feed pipe, Eventually leading to oil starvation in the turbo causing instant turbo failure. I've used Wynn's engine flush before and once recommended it, however wynn's formula is a bit too abrasive which strips everything from the engine internals leading to risk of scribing and minute cavitations the product leaves nothing behind only your next fill of oil to protect internals. The best product on the market to flush out the carbon and other harmful deposits from your engine is from a company called Xado, They manufacture an organic based engine flush product which also has some revitalizant: Forms an anti-wear coating on friction parts immediately during oil system flushing Creates reserve of anti-wear protection properties, prevents possible defects on friction surfaces during further engine operation. Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10 This bottle gets poured in to the existing engine oil when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature. You can then drive for a distance up to 20km/15miles prior to draining the oil. This makes Total Flush from Xado an ideal product for those of us whom don't carry out oil changes ourselves, Simply pour the bottle in to the engine prior to leaving your car in to the garage for a service gives great peace of mind and protection. I've used this product a few times now myself on my 1.6TDCi engine, I've noticed the engine idles quieter and drives smoother its definitely worth purchasing as part of the routine service on your vehicle.
  8. Good afternoon, I'm hoping that people here will be able to help me identify some tubes and explain their purpose and whether I can replace them myself. Car is a Ford Focus, Zetec Climate TDCI, 1.8L Diesel, Estate. Please refer to attached picture. Tube A - Cracked through. Thin tube from Turbocharger to sensor? Makes noise similar to blowing through a straw when turbo is running. Does anyone know how I can find a part number, and if it's something I can replace myself (i.e. is it just a push fit or is it heat-shrunk). Tube B - Possible split on underside. Slightly thicker than tube A, unknown origin, runs parallel to a line saying containing fuel don't replace. Does this also contain fuel? What does it do? How easy is it to replace? Part Number? Any help/advice anyone can give about these parts, or guidance on how to find unknown parts that I haven't identified from my Haynes Manual would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  9. Hi, I am new to this site but after some advice. My 2013 Fiesta 1.0 ecotechnic recently started smelling strongly of petrol. I took it to the garage and they replaced a leaky fuel pipe under warranty. Ever since then (about 3 weeks) my car has a rattle - its not that loud but you can hear it even with radio on and its one of those annoying rattles, like a bottle or your sunglasses or something in a door pocket, but its not as I emptied my car of everything! Generally its louder when the engine is cold and dies away a bit once its warm. I've taken it back to the garage and they can hear the rattle too, they referred it back via warranty and apparently the new part is slightly different (and that's just the way it is now) and so therefore this noise is normal?! I cant say I understand this, especially as the hire car they gave me was almost identical (same engine etc but being one or two years newer) and doesn't make this noise. Any ideas on the real cause and what I should do next? I don't want to be left with a car with an annoying rattle and am concerned that if I ever decided to sell that no buyer will believe me that the rattle is normal! Thanks in advance!
  10. Hi, can someone tell me the normal temperatures of the 1.8 TDCI in a Mk2.5 Focus? But i mean the real temperature.. So not the gauge in the dash. I want the real temperature which you can read with a obd device.. Mine is (outside temp. ~0-5°C) at normal driving (60mph) between 65-75°C. Was wondering if this is normal (Dash-gauge shows as usual steady 88°C.. thought a broken thermostat would affect the gauge). Greetings
  11. I found the engine oil leaking on the surface of cylinder block, ranging from the upper of the oil filter to the behind of the starter motor. Such leaking originated from the cylinder head gasket or oil pressure switch? e
  12. Leaking Fluid Into Driver Footwell

    Hi all! Have a weird issue with my focus.... there seems to be a leak coming down the clutch pedal and into the foot well. Not a massive one but it's there! Looks like from the cylinder. I recently had a massive power steering fluid leak and that's just been fixed. When the leak started, weeks and weeks ago, I marked all the 'bottles' in the bonnet where the liquid was. None of them have moved except for the power steering fluid, as mentioned. I known issue I have is the seals gone on the bottom of the windscreen so rain could get in. Any ideas?
  13. Hi everyone. I wondered if anyone would know where I can get some replacement door seals from for a 2004/05 Streetka passenger side please? I have a leak in my passenger side car door. I have figured out my seals are in two parts and are held together by a plastic pin and was pulled off one day by a garage man after the door was bashed in a crash. My poor car has not been the same since (it has been about two years now). I have tried my hardest to get replacement seals but I have been told by Ford that they stopped making them a long time ago and it seems breakers yards never get any. My seals have been held together for the last two years with a patch from a bycle puncher repair kit which has worked, unfortunately the rubber has perished and this is no longer an option. I can try and get ome more secondhand ones of ebay and hope the pin is not damaged and if so continue with the puncture repair kit method. I would prefer a more permenant solution though and I can't afford a new car at the minute. Would anyone have any ideas please? Thank you x
  14. I have a 56 plate Fiesta MK6 Zetec S, done 99k and hasn't let me down yet, untill recently. I first had a problem arriving at work after a 26 mile commute, noticed steam coming out of the bonnet so lifted it up to find there was NO coolant in it what so ever after being serviced 2 weeks before. so i topped it up and kept an eye on it. 2 months later after everything seemed fine, i was on the same commute and my engine temp rose from 90 to 120 in around 45 seconds while idleing in traffic, so i pulled over as there was luckily a petrol station right next to me and filled it up with coolant, then resumed on my way home, checked in the morning and all semmed fine, got to work this morning, checked again straight away, all seemed fine, checked an hour later after explaining my problem to a colleauge and it had dropped to basically 1/4 of the amount i had put in?! but the car had not moved, there are no puddles and no "mayonaise" in the engine oil. any advice would be appreciated on this as its doing my head in. thanks Chris.
  15. Hi all, My fiesta is causing me many troubles so please bear with me whilst I pour out the details... 1. Instrument Cluster replacement due to immobiliser fault. 1 week later: immobiliser came on whilst driving so it was returned to Ford but the fault did nit reoccur. 2. First motorway drive - Speedo reading incorrectly; stuck at 50, stuck at 70, dropped to 30 when stationary then moved to 70 and stayed there. When driving the needle climbs at a reasonable speed. 3. Post motorway drive - Loud whirring/screeching sound from engine - sounded like a belt movement. No change when revving - okay once cooled and driven again for a shirt distance. 4. Didn't drive car for 2 weeks (involved in accident) - drive 10 miles to Ford and cab hear screeching noise again. Revved (gas pedal to floor) and upon calming there was a 'clunky' noise and then the normal engine/screeching belt sound remained. Any ideas? Am I unlucky or is it linked? (Asking for advice as I go away on holiday tomorrow and will not liaise with Ford for a week! Plus want insight as I think the instrument cluster is faulty even if not the cause of both problems?)
  16. Hi, Looking for some advice on which replacement water pump I need. The car is a 2003 StreetKa, registered in March of that year. The engine is a 1.6 Duratec (Zetec Rocam). It needs a new water pump. Two part numbers are listed and I'm unsure which I need. First part no 1229571 lists a water pump and gasket, and second part no 1798955 lists a water pump kit with no gasket ... sold separately. Has anyone fitted one? Do I need the additional part shown in the pump kit? Or can I buy the pump and gasket? Cheers, Ed
  17. Hi all, CMAX 2.0 Zetec Auto 2008 I have severe electrical issues at present (central locking, dashboard not showing indicators/lights & has engine electrics warning, now wipers stopped working last night). I believe i need a new internal fuse box (GEM/ECU ??) to replace the one in the passenger well of my CMAX which seems to have been damaged by water ingress. The part number is 7M5T 14a073 CC Apparently ford installed a blanket fuse box with all electrical functionality for the entire range ready to be programmed dependant upon the model sold with, but I have no idea what the part number is. Is it correct that any fuse box starting with: 7M5T 14a073 C... will work and just needs to be coded or do i need to find either exactly the same (CC) or the next letter along i.e. CD,CE,CF which i assume have higher functionality than the existing?? I have found one fusebox online 7M5T 14a073 CF that looks similar, apparently fits 2008 cmax models but I urgently need some guidance. cheers, GF2K
  18. rear valance

    From the album Fies

  19. Hi, I have a Mk1 saloon which appears to be leaking water into the boot. Small amount of water is dripping on the carpet. When I put my hand under the lip on the passenger side (around the area where the pulls are to drop the rear seat) it comes back wet. My mechanic has had a look and can't figure out if the rear screen is letting water in (so it's running down inside the car and coming around the join) of if the seem that sits just above is letting water in. It worse when it's been washed, and oddly when opening the boot the entire back half of the lid is covered in water droplets (my first thought was that the seal around the boot had gone). My mechanic, when testing tried blowing air up from inside the car to see if any bubbles appears around the rear screen with no luck. My mechanic thinks the rear screen might break if we take out and re-seal, but there is no guarantee this the cause. By the way, it's not coming from the light cluster - totally dry around both of these so 100% not leaking rear lights! Anybody else had this problem or any ideas on where else it might be coming from? The car is good condition and has only mid 50k miles from new so don't mind spending some money on it, just want to make sure it's not wasted! Thanks
  20. I am buying the parts myself which are working out at €250. That's for timing belt and water pump kit & a wet belt kit. Mechanic I know said he'd fit for €200. Is this a good price? My car is 120,000m and I'm not sure if both belts have been replaced yet as don't have the service history.
  21. OK so basically I had a 2.0 TDCi Zetec S a few years back on an 04 plate that had diesel pooling around the injectors. It turned out to be the Leak off pipes/ connectors, we changed the lot to be sure. However when we changed it the car would not start at all! It took about a week of disconnecting and really connecting rando stuff to.get it finally started in limp mode. After that it was fine and the error we were getting of low pressure in the fuel rail went. Now I've just bought a mondeo 2.0 TDCi Zetec again with the same issue if diesel pooling around the injectors. My concern is ill.change the pipes and connectors and my car won't start again! Can anyone she'd some light on why that would happen? Thanks in advance :)
  22. Water In Boot

    Hi guys I've got water in the boot of my focus but can't seem to find the leak any suggestions please
  23. Hi all, Ford Focus Mk2, 1.6 petrol. 2005 / 55. So yesterday I discovered that my engine coolant level was looking pretty low (maybe half an inch below 'min' when cold). No engine warning lights up to that point though. Today I took the car out to pick up some coolant / battery top up water (yes, I know that I probably could have used tap water!) to give it a bit of a top up before I decided what to do next. It was on the way back home that the fun began and I could feel the car juddering while driving up a hill until it got worse and worse. Experience told me that this was probably a spark plug / coil pack related issue. Still, at least the car still drove so I wasn't completely stranded, which is more than can be said for my previous cars. At this stage I hadn't twigged that the coolant issue was in fact related to the juddering as on inspection I discovered coolant / rusty water in / around the core plugs and it had made quite a mess. At least it solved that mystery. The frustrating this is that this is the very same issue that was discovered by my garage in Feb last year while they were doing the timing belt, except it had only got to the stage of making a mess / causing some corosion and hadn't had any noticeable impact on running or performance. I should also add that my car appears to have the modified screen washers and having done a few splash tests, they do seem water tight in my opinion. I only bought this car 2 years ago, directly from Ford, so I put my stern face on and drove (noisily) over to Ford and kind of dumped the car on their front door step and insisted on a resolution. I spoke to the head of servicing right away who said that the fault would be diagnosed and a solution decided at no charge, so at least I don't have to pay for them to find the issue. I accept that my car is gettinng on a bit, but I don't think it's acceptable for this to be happening once, let alone twice. The first time it happened was 6 months after I bought the car, so wasn't covered by a warranty. What stance should I take? What are the questions to ask? What is the actual solution so that I can check what they say against what you guys say? Can anyone explain to me what is actually happening to cause this and Is there a permanent fix? I'm hoping for a call back from them tomorrow. Thanks for any help or advice that anyone can give. J
  24. Okay all, I know this is a well known issue with the Ford anti-theft and anti customer cannot access your bonnet issue but I wonder if there's a really good fix for this? My 04 Cmax TDCI has the "lock doesn't work" issue, I've replaced the plastic part with OE and it did it again so found a longer "boden" I think they call them on ebay and fitted that but it soon came back. Something is moving within the locking mechanism causing it all not to unlock. Is there a complete kit to replace with a fool proof repair? Not just changing for a new replacement of the same crappy design?
  25. Hi there, I've tried refilling my a/c few months back and it was leaking somewhere. According to the mechanic it was the condenser. So i changed that during the week end. I went to refill it again, and it's still leaking. Went to 4 mechanics and no one knows where it's leaking? apparently they have put dye through the pipes but still in vain. Anyone have any suggestions please? The heat is unbearable Thanks in advance.