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Showing results for tags 'forums/diesel+particulate+filter'.

Found 165 results

  1. Right so I want to change my Air Box to an Air filter on my Mk7.5 Fiesta Black Edition 140 - But I have noticed there is a air sensor attached to the unit if i fit an air filter will this cause me any issues if the sensor isn't plugged in? Cheers Ben_140 
  2. Please bear with me on this one. Until this week I haven't heard of a DPF. My last car was a 2010 1.4tdci Fiesta Edge, fitted with a DPF. My journeys mainly consist of trundling around town with the odd motorway run. And I had the Fiesta for 2 years and 8 months, and the only problem I ever had with that car was the rubber seals around the fuel injectors. There was not any other single fault. 2 months ago, I bought a 2009 1.6tdci Focus econetic. Reasons being i can't afford to run a petrol car with the cost of fuel and tax. And early this week, whilst doing around 60mph the engine lost a lot of power, and on the dash all that was displayed was "Engine Malfunction". I had no prior warning about this. So took it to my local mechanic, and he explained the issue, and cleaned it and now all is well. So I've done some reading about DPF's, and 9/10 people are saying to stay away unless you're on the motorway often, which makes sense considering how a DPF burns off the soot. But I'm a little confused/worried. My previous fiesta had 50,000 on the clock when I bought it, and I changed it at 60,000, and I never had a problem with the DPF. And this focus has 86,000 on the clock. So, what I would like to know, is, 1) Did I get lucky with the fiesta? 2) How long can a DPF go without cleaning just driving around town? 3) Will me taking it onto the motorway for 20 mins clear the filter? 4) If so, how often would I need to do a motorway run? Also, I have read that to begin burning off the soot in the DPF, the engine revs need to be around 2,500rpm. Which is a slight issue, as the other night on the motorway for about 3 miles, at 70mph in 5th, the engine revs only hit 2,000rpm. So, only hitting 2,000rpm even on a motorway, does that indicate that I have an "active regeneration", as opposed to a "passive regeneration'? I'm aware fundamentally, I've made an error in buying this car, I only buy diesel to keep the cost down, with tax and fuel. I'm just wondering, will everything be ok, if I take it for a high speed run say every 2 weeks? After discussing this with my father, he is under the impression that, I didn't have a problem with the fiesta, so it's likely that you will generally be problem free with the focus. After paying £200 for the DPF clean, I'd like to help the engine/filter as much as I can, I also have to consider, that I have no idea how the car was treated by the previous owner. Any help/advice is appreciated.
  3. IF

    IF,  note big IF I get the job position I've applied for my mileage is going to go from near nothing to approx 75-80 miles a day, so I'm thinking of changing my petrol 125ps tit x fiesta for a focus if needs be Few questions though, what spec to go for ? I've toyed with the ST3 but tbh it'd be a waste, so I'm more thinking the normal specced cars. What does each spec really offer? Is the better mpg really present for a diesel against a ecoboost petrol?  What are the downsides to a diesel?  As I'll be honest in all my years of driving, apart from the odd van for 5 minutes, I've never really driven one, not to get used to their quirks at least anyway Help me 
  4. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would.   TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help?   Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  5. Hi there just wondering if anyone can help me by showing the location of the "air box resonator" on my Fiesta 2011 1.25L Zetec ive had a small look to try and fine it but I thought it'd be best to ask some more knowledgable folk, if anyone could help tell me the location of the resonator it would be greatly appreciated, photos especially!  Many thanks, Luke
  6. I recently bought a used Ford Focus 1.8 Diesel (5 Door) and have a couple of questions maybe you guys can help me with. 1. When the car starts it produces quite a lot of white smoke which stops after a minute or two and is not present when I rev the engine. However, when I stop the car and get out I do notice a strong diesel smell. There is no ticking from the engine when I turn it off and the car seems to drive fine so I am not sure what the problem is. 2. The throttle seems to be a little on the dull side. As I said above the car does seems to drive fine but something just doesn't feel right about the throttle - I have driven many turbo diesels in the past and they had a bit of punch to them when you put your foot down - whereas the Focus does respond it just doesn't seem very aggressive. 3. A couple of mornings ago (it was very cold just above freezing) I started the engine and it was ticking over fine but when I put it in gear and tried to reverse out of my parking spot the throttle simply didn't respond at all. The engine was still running and ticking over fine but nothing from the throttle. Within 10 seconds it was working fine but it was totally dead for those first 10 seconds. 4. When I have the vents on to clear the windscreen, the passenger side clears very quickly but the drivers side takes an age - is there an easy way to check if the fan is broken? I am going to book it into a Ford Center for a winter service next week and will ask them about these other issues as well - but as you know these places can often charge a fortune for things which actually don't need doing so I was just hoping to get some sort of idea of possible issues before I take it in. Also does anyone know of a device which will allow me to read ECU codes to give me some more indication of the problems and also a resource for explaining what the codes mean? I am thinking the problems could be something to do with the injectors - I also thought perhaps the head gasket but I have been told that usually there would be some ticking sound when the engine is turned off if the gasket was the problem. If it is the head gasket how difficult is it to change yourself - I know a garage will charge a small fortune for doing it so if it is not so difficult I would consider doing it myself. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.
  7. Hi Everyone, I am planning on changing the Fuel Filter on the above car over the weekend and I have the good old Haynes Manual to follow, however I was just wondering if anyone knew of any good posts of this nature on the forum already or of any useful guides - a quick search didn't return anything? Any useful advice or things to watch out for etc also wouldn't go amiss! Also can anyone recommend a good Diesel Primer Pump - there are quite a few on Amazon, but most of them have less than brilliant reviews. Many thanks in advance! Glen
  8. Hi just looking for some advice or if anybody else has had this problem. I have a 58 plate Ford Focus Style 1.8tdci and am having some power problems when the fuel tank is at a certain level. When I fill the tank the car runs smoothly for the first 100 miles then problems start occurring. When accelerating at around 2000-2500revs the car suddenly looses power and judders, it doesn't cut out but if I take my foot of the accelerator it will ease off and I can then accelerate a bit more then the same problems. When the fuel then reaches 1/4 of a tank the problem stops and it runs fine again. Appologies for going on a bit first time on here and slightly baffled with the whole thing.
  9. Hello I have a Mondeo which is making a whining/whirring sound, not just under acceleration (ie makes the same sound when foot taken off the accelerator), and is more pronounced at low speeds (10-35mph especially) - the sound resembles the noise some cars make when reversing at more than walking pace. It seems to be more a bit noticeable after 15 minutes into a journey. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  10. Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a new daily and I shortlisted my model range to either a Focus or a Fiesta. Since it is going to be a daily car I want it to be a diesel. The diesel engines I'm opting for are either the 1.4 tdci (DLD 414) or 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Fiesta or the 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Focus. Now I know that these engines are not all done by Ford but in some websites I read that Ford use Peugeot (HDi) engines and in others I read that these engines where produced together with Peugeot. So what I am asking is, is it true that these engines are only done by Peugeot and Ford source the engines? or it is a new engine that Ford designed researched and produced together with Peugeot? Please any sources in your answers are very appreciated since I want to see whether Ford are sourcing PSA engines or developing them with PSA. Thank You :)
  11. Ford Transit Diesel Van 2008 TDCI sleeps outside, and the gear selection is sticky. Is this normal? After idling the engine, the gears seem to loosen up. ( it cost more than 2 X the Ford C-Max, but it still is the runt of the fleet! :D the C-Max sleeps in the garage! :) )
  12. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  13. Ok so let me get this started by saying this job is an annoying one to do but I was getting a weird smell through my vents and thought to start with the cabin/pollen filter and thought whilst I was there to make a quick guide as I couldn’t find any with decent pictures Filter I bought - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201257781381 Dimesions: 34 x 209 x 230 Tools Required 7mm Socket 13mm Socket T20 Bit Flat Head (Might not need it) Step 1 Clear out any contents that you have in the glove box as it needs to come out as the filter is in behind it. Step 2 There are 3 plastics tabs that are covering 3 screws mines just popped away using my hand although a flat head screw driver would come in handy for any ones that won’t budge. Step 3 After that you will need to remove 7 screws using the T20 Bit. Your glove box should just pull away, keep an eye out for the little hook at the top as this is what the glove box uses to keep it shut and with the screws removed the metal bracket will not be held in place. Step 4 With the main part now out you will then need to just unhook this plastic part should come away easily. Step 5 The 2 hinges should then just pull away don’t be afraid to give these a little tug. After this you glovebox door can be removed. Step 6 Now that we have the glovebox completely out we should start with the cover that holds in the cabin filter. This bolt requires a 7mm socket and is at the bottom you should be able to get to it through the footwell. Step 7 We now want to unclip the fuse box using the little tabs so that we can access the bolts that holds on the metal bracket which the fuse box sits on as this metal bracket is in the way of the cabin filter cover so need to be removed before we can get the old filter out. Step 8 I got a little ahead of myself and forgot to take a picture of the 2 bolts although you should get the idea. These 2 bolts require the 13mm socket. Once removed you will need to wiggle the fuse box off the bracket and get the bracket out of the road. Step 9 With the metal bracket out the way all you need to do now is remove the 2 (7mm) bolts and the cover should then just come away. Step 10 Forgot to take a picture at this point but you should now be able to see your old filter all you need to do is remove it. It can be a little awkward with some of the cables nearby but can be done if you take your time. This is the picture of my old filter the camera makes it look better than it was but it was completely black and looked like it had never been changed even though I bought this car with a full dealer history. After this just put in your new filter and follow this guide in reverse. Took me around 30 minutes to do it and that was my first time doing it. Hopefully the pictures are clear enough if not I do have them in high quality. Once I get the zip file uploaded somewhere I will add the link in.
  14. Which Induction Kit?

    Hallo Together, i am thinking about changing the standard air filter with the performance one. I ended with two options: K&N 57S-4000 Performance Intake Kithttp://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=57S-4000 or J1's Ford Focus Mk3 Air Intake Kit http://j1automotive.co.uk/shop/focus-mk3-air-intake-kit/ Well i already know about the great manufacturing quality of the J1 intake kits but is it worth the extra money comparing to K&N? Thank you in advance for any opinions or personal experience :)
  15. Engine Cut Out After Starting

    Hi, this is my first posting on here, although I have followed the site for several years for advice. I have a 2006 Ford Focus Sport Tdci purchased on finance 10 months ago. The 3 month warranty has already expired, and I have 26 more payments to make before I own the car outright. For the past 10 months this car has worked fine, with no issues at all, and sailed through the MOT 3 months ago. Yesterday morning I did what I always do. I turned the ignition key to power up the car, without starting the engine. I waited the second or two for the glow plug light to go off, then started the ignition. The engine started immediately. I put the car in reverse, and just as I lifted my foot off the clutch to reverse off my drive the engine cut out. I put the car in neutral and attempted to restart the engine. This took about 5-10 seconds of whirring before the engine kicked in. The car worked fine for my 35 mile journey, and was fine 10 hours later when I returned to my car for my 35 mile journey home. This morning I again did the same thing. The engine cut out again at the same moment. This time it took 4-5 goes to get the engine started again, but on this occasion the dashboard showed some warning lights. The glow plug light came on for a few seconds, as did the engine management light. The power train light stayed on until the engine started. I revved the engine, got a small cloud of light grey smoke from the exhaust and the car started fine. I drove it only half a mile, turned off the engine for 5 minutes the restarted, and it was fine. No warning lights. Any ideas on the problem and expected cost would be appreciated. I'm guessing the garage or the finance company will not take liability.
  16. Hi All I'm new here so if this is the wrong category for help with my Ford focus just let me know or hopefully a mod can move it. So Yeah... I've been having all sorts of problems with my Ford Focus TDdi 2001. Main issue right now is after letting a friend practice "hill starts" in it, after a while and a lot of stalling and cranking of the engine getting it to start again, it died. I turn the key and nothing now not cranking at all, but all the lights come on. Apparently they was keeping the engine cranking a lot and holding the ignition for longer than they should have done and to get it started again he rolled it backwards down the hill and then started the ignition which eventually worked to get it back to me. If the car is pushed it starts up straight away, and I mean straight away like a car should doesn't need all the cranking of the engine. I'm aware that it could be the fuel pump, never considered the starter motor until now when it won't turn over, possibly an injection problem...etc Any Idea what you think happened and is the problem? EDIT: There is no fault codes showing at all.
  17. 2013 model on 13 plate (3 years old), 13,500 miles. Good fuel used (not supermarket), full ford service history. On a 30 mile commute each day, I at least once get a judder through the accelerator pedal and the rev needle flickers up to an additional 1000rpm for just a few seconds simultaneously. This usually happens just prior or after changing gears mostly 4th, 5th and 6th (normal acceleration, not being thrashed). Taken to Ford garage twice, they plug in ECU and cannot find anything wrong. Warranty runs out in 6 months, don't want problem to worsen and then get a huge out of warranty bill. Worried also that the juddering will happen when overtaking or pulling out onto a slip lane, as although there is no loss of power when this occurs, it does not pick up speed either. If anyone can assist, please reply. Many thanks.
  18. I want to post this thread because I recently came to this site as a new member, hoping to have found the answer I was looking for to my own Ford problem, but without success. There were many similar threads and I take my hats off to those Ford owners who made the effort to post some help and advice for others. However, I hope that my specific thread will be of help to those drivers with the same model Ford as mine. I own a 2005/55 plate Ford Focus 1.6 VTC Petrol 2 Door, of which I am extremely proud. Two weeks ago I had her serviced, ...which brings me on to the subsequent issue I had. 3 days after the car was serviced, the Crankshaft Position Sensor failed and my mechanic was not available to do the job due to being on hols. I had been told that it wasn't a big job and to try and do it myself. I turned to this sight for help, but none of the threads applied to the year and model of my Focus. The good news is, the job has now been done....by me, and I want to share with other Focus owners my experience in replacing the sensor. I did buy the Haynes manual to assist me with locating the sensor (I have limited mechanical knowledge), but moreover I want to share with others how I did the job and what issues I had to overcome. Firstly, to do this job you will need a new sensor (obviously), a small torch, a good strong trolley jack, an axel stand (safety first), a socket set and an 8mm socket. However, as I later explain some of the issues I experienced, I would also suggest having a swivel head socket, or a short shaft 8mm spanner. Next, to locate the sensor on this model, jack up the car using the jacking point just below the driver's door, as the sensor is positioned just left of centre at the base of the block, and after putting a suitable axel stand in position lower the car onto the axel stand for stability. I would also leave the trolley jack in place for added safety. From the front of the car, poisition yourself underneath and look for the oil filter. From the oil filter look up to the crank casing (approx 4-5inch upwards) and you will find a blue coloured electrical connector block sitting slightly inwards in the crack case. This is the sensor connection, and you will need to remove the connector block before you attempt to dismantle the sensor from the crankshaft. To disconnect this, on the connector block you will see a very fine spring wire...press this inwards towards the crank case to unlock the block and slip off the connector. With the connector removed you will now be able to clearly see the 8mm bolt head that connects the sensor to the crankshaft. This is where a swivel head socket or a short shaft 8mm spanner may be useful, because as the crankshaft case comes accross the back of the sensor, on this Focus model the crank case bevels outwards, thus limiting the room you have to put the socket with ratchet handle headlong onto the bolt. An extension on the socket head would have helped me, but because this sends the socket handle backwards, the turning of the socket is then limited by the Oil filter. The easisest way would have been with a short shaft 8mm spanner, as this would have slipped neatly onto the bolt, but I didn't have one of these, and the longer handle spanner I had was limited in turning by one of the water hoses running off the base of the engine. If you only have a fixed ratchet handle then you will have to be prepared for alot of short bolt turns because of the limited room to turn it. Once you have loosened the bolt enough, you can get your fingers in and turn it by hand until it is completely out. Now the sensor is free for removel....take hold of it and slide it backwards, out of the Crankshaft and compare it with the new one to double check you have the correct one for replacement. Now you can fit the new one. Carefully slide the sensor into the crankshaft, being careful not to knock or drop it, as this is a 'one time fit' part. As you slide the new sensor into place, be sure to align the bolt head connector up with the thread hole. Use a torch to try and see that it is in line before offering up the connecting bolt. Gently rubbing some fine grease or WD40 onto the connector bolt will help with lubrication. Offer up the connecting bolt and slowly turn it into place by hand as far as you can go. Now revert to finishing off the tightening with the ratchet/spanner, depending on what best suits you. Tighten it up until the socket or spanner won't move without forcing it, but be careful not to over-tighten. Finally, slide the connector block back onto the head of the new sensore and you are done. Jack the car back up off the axel stand, remove the axel stand, and then lower the car back down off the jack. I am hoping to post some photos to this thread as soon as I can find my camera cable to connect to my laptop, but I can honestly say that for a novice mechanic, this job is more fiddly than difficult. I hope this helps someone else, and good luck with any general running repairs that you may have.
  19. Hey guys, Which is the best air filter for my car? Here's what I found on ECP but im unsure which one would be best, I dont want to buy poor quality products. All help is much appreciated. http://www.eurocarparts.com/air-filters?awc=3997_1445019491_b52f9784e48398367a454be5928154dc&utm_source=Skimlinks&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=ecp+homepage&utm_content=awin+traffic&utm_campaign=Sub+Networks Thanks :)
  20. Hi all. I have a 06 plate focus fitted with the 1.6 cdti engine. The turbo has blown and im looking to fit a new one. Im no stranger under the bonnet so im looking to do the work myself. As i know this is a common problem for this engine. Im looking for advice on which steps i need to take to carry out the repair. Also, does anyone konw where i can get a refurbished turbo from? I have searched for one but i dont know which companies are better to use etc. Thanks in advance
  21. I am looking to buy a used car and I am thinking of a Focus. I don't have a ton of money and am looking for a car that will last me two years max. I have found a 06 plate TDCi focus zetec climate for £2000 but the mileage is 143k - it has all service history with it. I think it is high mileage of course but was just wondering what others thought as I do not know a lot about cars as this will only be my third one. I know diesel engines do last longer if looked after etc - which is why the mileage dosent bother me but really i know nothing (s$*t) Any advice, opinions would be great thanks.
  22. Hello, I need to try and find the location (or even better if anyone actually knows it) the engine code of a 2011 Fiesta Titanium Diesel 1.4 TDCi. I've had the plastic cover off the top of the engine and have a look around the block but can't see it anywhere. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  23. ive done some research on the internet prior to choosing the correct brand of replacment induction filter, most would assume that the best choice to be K&N but i have found Green Cotton Air filter to have the edge over K&N or PiperCross due to Green's manufacturing process being more hands on instead of automated manufacturing. the green filter in bonded with precision to the frame of the filter the results are more air flow in to the filter where K&N use an automated process resulting in over use of bonding glue to the frame of the filter which can spread across the panel restricting flow and performance of the filter leaving is performing less than K&N's original prototype that they use to get their gains figures from. but anyways enough of me blabbing on about the differences, because the information is available on other websites for all to view without me re-typing it lol. to purchase a Green Cotton performance induction filter for your ford and feel the difference for yourself log on to http://www.priracing....php/144/1/ford and get 10% Discount off your Green Cotton Performance filter by using the code FORDOWNERSCLUB10 you can also get 20% Discount off any Ritchbrook branded stock by entering Discount Code: RICHBROOK20 both offers are eclusive to members of fordownersclub.com special thanks to Ross at Priracing for this kind offer. So here's whats in the box for the focus 1.6TDCi induction filter. Ive decided to upgrade the standard ford induction filter in my 1.6TDCi focus to a free flowing high performance induction filter. and since i was changing it ive decided to create this guide to show others what is envolved aswell as report on the performance difference between the stock and aftermarket direct replacment air box filter. fitting time takes around 15-20 minutes, Tools required are an 8mm socket and a pair of rubber latex gloves So Open the bonnet, remove the battery cover if fitted. and using the 8MM socket loosen the 4 bolts that are holding the lid of the induction box in place. please note the bolts do not pull free/seperate from the lid, they remove from the bottom section but stay inside the lid section by design, Once lid has been removed you will see your heavy stock ford filter, hopfully ford wont have bent your stock filter when putting it in their as they have done with mine. place your hand on the top end of the filter and pull upwards to remove it. once removed, ensure the lid from the induction box aswell as the 8mm socket are stored off of the engine bay and close the bonnet if you are planning to wait a couple of minutes prior to fitting the new filter. this will help prevent any contamination getting in to the induction pipes.
  24. Evening all, I've bought a bottle of Wynns injector cleaner as recommended by a mate at work (I also bought the DPF regenerator fluid too), but due to the excellent security on the Mk4 facelift's fuel filler cap, I can't get the fluid in! I can't push the white cap out the way. The bottles themselves, despite having a long-ish, thin-ish neck, don't push the cap out the way. I've tried pushing it down using a tent peg and a great deal of force but nothing seems to move it. Can anyone help? I hope that all makes sense. Many thanks
  25. Hi, 1st post in the forum don't think it's in the right place but hopefully someone can help. It's a problem with my mums fusion 1400 TDCI. Basically it hesitates/misfires very intermittently. Sounds like it loses signal to an injector every so often if your listening to it with the bonnet up.. I have driven it and its so random when it does it, it doesn't matter what speed or gear your in or if your changing gear etc.. I have had a read around and general consensus is it might need a software update?? Is this done via IDS?? Is it a take to ford job?? Can I check for updates myself?? It's a shame my peugeot/Citroen diag software won't read it as its a pug/CIT engine. If any mechanics out there can help a fellow mechanic that would be great. Thanks Chris