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Showing results for tags 'forums/egr+valve'.

Found 25 results

  1. I was wondering about making my Ford Fiesta Black Edition have a louder blow off valve noise but... I am worried that my engine warning light will come up and my car may go into "LIMP MODE". Also what blow off valves fit the fiesta black edition???  Ben_140
  2. Hi all, Going to attempt to install this bad boy in the Fiesta this weekend in order to regain heating in the cabin! (I've had to stop using the car it's so cold!). From what I understand it is a very good idea to drain the coolant out first so that the pipes and valve aren't full of coolant when you take them off. Is it enough to disconnect the bottom rad hose, empty coolant into a container etc and then flush through with a garden hose, or should I take the engine block drain plug out too? Then to refill, pour in the coolant expansion tank and squeeze hoses to make sure there's no air locks? I've found TK42138's channel on Youtube very helpful https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoxdxmHrbiFU2FXe6as-dKw as he has video'd most stages of the process but just want to make sure I'm aware of everything I need to be before I empty my system of coolant and get into any difficulties filling it back up again! I can take pics of my process too if people would be interested in a visual step by step? Cheers Tom  
  3. The MIL light recently came on my 2008 Ford Focus 2.0 tdci. I used a ELM 327 OBDII interface (£10 from ebay) and app for the iphone to read the fault codes which came back as "P2263 Turbocharger/Super Charge Boost System Performance" and a couple of others (see attached photo below) . Fault code screen grab from the iPhone I noticed the MIL light came on shortly after servicing the car but for some reason I was fairly certain it was just a coincidence. When driving the car it noticeably had less power and fuel economy had dropped down to 18 mpg (normally around 35mpg for city driving). Also the MAF was showing around 3lb/min on the OBD read out but they were all the symptoms I noticed. OBD values for various parameters (before fault was fixed) I then read all available forums to find out what might have caused the fault could before attempting to fix it. From what I read the possible causes for a P2263 fault code where: Stuck/ faulty turbo actuator ERG value stuck open Faulty MAF sensor Split inlet pipe between turbo and inlet manifoldThe first thing I did was disconnect the MAF sensor, cleared the fault code and took it for a run. By disconnecting the MAF it makes the PCM use a default setting and if its the problem you should see the car run close to normal so I was expecting the power at least to return. After the run the car was still down on power and the MIL late came back on again a day later. Based on this I figured it was not the MAF sensor. MAF sensor location on the inlet manifold Next thing I did was check for a split inlet pipe between the turbo (in behind the engine and very hard to get at) and the inlet manifold. I got the wife to rev the car between 2,000 -3,000 rpm while I inspected all the hoses on both sides of the inter-cooler. This required taking the splash guard off and getting underneath the vehicle as well as looking in from under the bonnet to check all pipes. I found nothing that suggested a split pipe. All pipes looked to be in good condition and I couldn't hear or feel air rushing out anywhere. The next thing I did was inspect the EGR valve. It is not easily got to as it is behind at the back and on the right. You need to remove the plastic shroud that runs across the top at the base of the windscreen. You remove the wipers, pull off 6 clips, undo two screws and the whole thing comes off fairly easily. I took off the pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold to check the EGR function. It was very easy to do with a couple of 10 mm bolts holding on the pipe and a couple of clips. The EGR valve itself looks like it would be quite difficult to take off as some of the bolts holding it on are very hard to get at so I decided not to bother. Neither the pipe nor the EGR valve looked very caked up with soot which was surprising from all of the stories I have read and heard (the motor has done 85,000 miles). Both were relatively clean. On inspection I could see the EGR valve was closed so figured it couldn't be the problem. To be sure I got my wife to rev the car up a few times while inspecting and it open and shut as it is supposed to. It looked fine so I discounted it as the problem. While I had the pipe off I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in and around the valve then I blanked it off with a blanking plate (£4 from ebay) and put it back together. (I have attached some photos of the EGR valve and pipe). EGR valve location and inlet manifold connecting pipe Through the process of elimination I now only had the turbo left to inspect which I was dreading inspecting as it is so hard to get at as the turbo is low on the engine and right at the back. You can't even see it from the top from looking under the bonnet so you need to get down under the car to see it. I already had the splash guard off so I climbed underneath the car with a torch to inspect the turbo. (I have attached a few photos of the turbo itself and the actuator). Once again I got the wife to rev the car and realised the actuator was not working as nothing was moving. It has an electric wire plug which attached on top of the diaphragm which I figured was the sensor/actuator switch. There was also the diaphragm (vacuum operated) and a small vacuum pipe coming off it. The first thing I did was push the actuator gently a few times with a screw driver to see if it was stuck. It seem to move freely. I then suspected the vacuum hose that operates the diaphragm may have been split or had come off. I followed it back to a sort of union box that is located on the right of the engine at front between the airbox and engine. From there I followed it back to where it connects to the engine and gets it's vacuum which is a location on the right of the inlet manifold and is very close to the oil filter. On inspection I immediately found my problem. The pipe had come off the nipple causing the turbo actuator to get no vacuum. I must have knocked it off accidentally when replacing the oil filter during the service. I pushed it back on, cleared the engine fault codes and then started the car up. I immediately notice the intake manifold and MAF airflow readings where much higher. Below are some photos of the turbo, diaphragm and actuator (it was hard to get a good photo) The vacuum hoses that operate the turbo actuator located under the inlet manifold and close to the oil filter I put everything back together and then took the car for a drive on the motor way. I immediately noticed it's power was back and it was very responsive. I reset the mpg gauge and was immediately getting ~55mpg on the highway which is about average though it was a fairly short trip. I haven't checked city driving yet. So far it seems to be running how it should/ used to and I am very happy I diagnosed the fault and it only cost me a few hours of my time OBD values for various parameters (after fault was fixed) The moral of the story is to be very careful when changing the oil filter on the 2.0 tdci duratorq motor as found on the Ford Focus and various other cars. You can easily knock off the vacuum hose that operates the turbo actuator and this will lead to the MIL light coming one due to a P2263 fault code.
  4. Hi Guys, I have 2 problems to which I hope here can help me sort and I hope this thread might help someone else. I have a Ford Focus MK1 1.6 Zetec (engine pictured below). My problem No.1 is it idle's on the 700-750rpm line and kinda shakes the cabin more than it should, it feels wrong and sometimes hunts for idle. Problem No.2 when i turn things like the light, blowers and front/back heated windscreen the revs drop to about 650 and shake the car considerable more to a point where you think it might stall but never does. Too be clear, my car does not have a MAF sensor. I have changed: - Idle valve sensore - Throttle position sensor - Coil Pack and leads I have checked: - PVC/breather valve hoses into the T and all is good - All hoses involved in air intake for a potential vacuum leak. I also used carb cleaner to spray every area to see if revs increase with no luck. - Battery/alternator connections wiggled and everything. - Earth connections cleaned. At the moment I can't find anything with anything but I did check battery voltage at Idle. Voltage at idle - 14.3V Voltage at idle with front electric windscreen heater on - 12.5V Not sure if this is a problem as when I rev the car the voltage increases with the heaters/lights on from 12.5V plus past 14V, any one have a view on this? Could the culprit be all along the alternator? Next actions - Apparently the PCV valve can cause this if broke, anyone have a view on this? Im also gonna do a ECU reset. Disconnect batt for 20 mins, let it idle for 20 mins then drive for 5 miles. I heard this works. One last thing is Ford do a ECU update to sort this out people say, is this BULL???? One thing to add my exhaust does have a blow but i don't think this will cause any of the above. If anyone has any ideas/experiences or tips please share I would be very appreciative. Thanks Jono ADDED: Forgot to say my car says there are no fault codes stored.
  5. Mk5 Heat Problem

    I've heard and read that fiesta MK4 and MK5s can have a heat problem with either hot or cold constantly feeding through and not being able to change the temperature. Mine is doing the exact same. It's feeding through constant hot air. After having read a solution, I thought it could be a thermostat problem. The guy I bought the car from told me he'd already changed that not so long before I bought the car and it was bought in March. I then read it could be a heater control valve problem. I changed the heater control valve and it worked! For a day or two... No I'm slightly stumped as to what next to look for. I don't believe it could be the matrix. I don't think there is a blockage anywhere otherwise it wouldn't have worked as soon as it was swapped. I'm reluctant to think its the connection as I checked that while swapping over the HCV and it seemed OK. Plus, it wasn't all that long ago. There's definitely no Leaks. The head gasket hasn't gone and its not on its way out. A few people had mentioned the heater control panel might be an issue. The fans are working on all settings but there's no wires running from the temperature knob. It's all running from the fan switch, the bottom of the PCB board and the 12v power supply. I don't think it could be the HCP neither becauxe it was working g when the HCV was swapped over. And I'm sure the wiring is normal anyhow. Has anyone got any ideas? I've searched all over this forum and I can't seem to find the answer. I'd rather not take it tons mechanic and part with my money haha. Thanks guys.
  6. Dump Valve Or Not ?

    got a 56 plate St and wondering if I should put a dump valve on it. Will they work with a standard engine and turbo ? If I do get then do I need other bits or do they go in same place as current one ?
  7. Please don't waste your money and buy from ebay I made this mistake buy from Fords Even my car is old it is reregistered disabled so Fords gave me a price then I asked for the 20% V.A.T off man looked confused as long as the car is reregistered disabled and I buy the part from Fords it is exempt from the 20% and presto got the 20% off Car is nice and cold again will never buy from ebay again but did get my money back from the seller in full
  8. Hi all, Well where to start lol Welcome to my new adventure, I've purchased a 2000 build Toyota Corolla Levin BZR AE-111 Coupé Engine is a 20 valve VT-i Twin cam 1598cc Naturally aspirated engine also known as "the black top" BHP: 168 Top speed? I need a bigger speedo as it only goes to 180kph and I went past that in 4th gear Gear box is a 6 speed short shift manual transmission with a limited slip diferental, Suspension is a unique super strut system, don't feel your hanging on corners it sticks to the road, Personnaly I prefer to hang because then I know how hard I can push it before slip, But with super strut suspension it doesn't do body roll. Brakes: its got twin pot brakes up front and single pot caliper with discs on the rear, Abs and power steering. It started life in Japan in 2000 after 9 years of Japanese ownership and was shipped to Ireland, Where the transmission was replaced by a manual bzr box, but there's still something to do with an automatic neutral sensor thing in the car, but I'll discuss that later It was imported by a fellow from Wicklow who registered it and kept it for 2 years before selling the seller I purchased from yesterday who had it for almost two years aswell. Here are some pictures
  9. Egr Problem

    Hello, My engine smoke during acceleration.After diagnoses found that EGR vlave is causing this problem.So i replaced it and bought new one from this website http://www.voguecollectionsltd.com/ford-transit-connect-s-max-galaxy-focus-mondeo-18-egr-valve-inlet-manifold-38541-p.asp Thanks
  10. Good evening all, I have a 2008 Focus ST2 (facelift model) It has the Mountune MR290 Pack on it. Everything has been great, recently had a Blow Off Valve fitted, this is where the issue has started. When I'm driving it easy and i get to approx 2800 rpm the engine feels like it retards a little bit, then everything goes back to normal once i pass this rpm. The place where i bought the Forge valve from said it was an issue with the focus when its the exact point that the vacuum changes from negative to positive pressure (i may have that the wrong way around but I'm sure you all will know) I do love the sound of the car and i think that the blow off valve makes it that little bit better, but can't live with this 'miss' every time I'm driving the car steady. Can anyone offer any advice please, other than boot it everywhere :-) Many Thanks in advance Glen
  11. V6 Essex

    Hi, I need to check and maybe adjust the valve clearances on my Essex V6 engine, the firing order for this engine is 1 4 2 5 3 6. To my way of thinking the best way to check these is to get number 1 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke when both valves should be closed, then check clearances on these valves, then turn engine 120 degrees when number 4 cylinder is TDC and repeat and so on. This way however is apparently not the way to do it. From what I have read various inlet and exhaust valves should be rocking and other valves are adjusted. My way seems much simpler. Can someone explain where my logic is wrong and what is the best way to do it ? Thanks, John.
  12. Hi, I'm a new member here, and fairly unaccustomed to forum sites, so apologies if I've posted this in the wrong place etc, but I am at my wits end trying to figure out what's wrong with my car and figured I'd seek out help from the experts :) I've got a streetka 1.6 duratec and recently its been giving me a lot of trouble. About 6 weeks ago, as I was driving to work, I noticed steam coming from the bonnet and a familiar coolant smell and so I stopped the car and noticed the thermostat housing had broken and was leaking all the coolant out. As it was a small leak, I let the car cool and limped it to a garage 2 miles away after topping it up with water (I had no breakdown cover) and the garage replaced the faulty thermostat housing, but advised that the cooling system was pressurising, which could mean other problems. From this point, I noticed that the heaters in the car were intermittent in supplying hot air, when the temp dial was set to hot. Now, just over a month later, driving along, I notice steam again, and the coolant smell and this time the leak was bigger than before - the pipes that lead into and out of the heater control valve had somehow become brittle and snapped off. I stopped immediately and called the AA who did a temp repair to get me to the garage - they bypassed the control valve and topped me up with water. Upon the AA patrol leaving, and me heading toward a garage, I noticed it struggled to reach 40mph on the dual carriageway and was essentially misfiring badly. Again, I limped it to the garage who replaced the heater control valve with a euro car parts item and replaced the coil pack, which has for now cured the misfire. Why the misfire/coilpack issue happened just as the coolant issue happened, I don't know, maybe this is related? Again, the cooling system was pressurising for ages before my mechanic said he managed to get it to settle and he said drive it a few days with just water in to see how it gets on and if its okay, we'll drain and refill with antifreeze. The past few days, I've done just that and it seems fine - except the heaters now would only blow cold air regardless of heat setting! I thought it was maybe the heater switch control panel, so I borrowed an old switch from a 1.3 ka and plugged it in to check if this was the case - and still cold air. I replaced my old heater control panel in the car and the next day, somehow all I get now is hot air! What is going on with this car? I'm worried about the next time something blows on this thing now and don't feel assured of taking it on a long journey. On a side note, since I've owned the car, the fan always seems to kick in early and then stays constantly on, even in cold weather. The temp light never comes on, which leads me to think that the car isn't overheating. It has only come on once, which is the first incident when the thermostat housing went. Sorry for the long essay, I thought it best to comprehensive about the problem. Any help is appreciated guys! Aman
  13. Hello all. Got a Mk 2.5 Titanium 2.0 TDCi with 16k on the clock I've blanked the EGR valve a month a go and said light still keeps coming back on. Does anyone else have any experience of this or ways around it? I'm not removing the blank plate. It is stainless steel so it wouldn't have burnt through (not even 1000 miles done on it yet) I've tried clearing the code with the engine running and the engine off. Engine off clearing seems to lengthen the period in which is comes back on. Is the car perhaps 'learning' to live without the valve? Cheers all. It's not a biggie, but a touch annoying to keep sorting it. Only takes a couple of minutes to do though :)
  14. Hi Guys New to posting but have read many posts that have been very helpful indeed! My story is this: 55 Plate Mondeo 2ltr 130 tdci with 146k motorway miles. Firstly like to say that I love this car, it's a great car that takes me on a journey of 33 miles each way to work 5 days a week and gives me 650 miles per tank. Good enough for me for the mileage it's done! I changed the starter motor 3 months ago as I was experiencing the dreaded howl of a dying starter and I'm aware that I will be facing the not so wallet happy task of converting over to an SMF and new clutch. Got a decent price from a local supplier for about £280 for the parts and a good mate with lots of experience to replace the parts for me. The issue's I'm getting are: Smoke on semi hard acceleration Clutch pedal seems to snag occasionally Jumps into limp mode if I have to accelerate above 3k revs when cold. Having read lots of info on the smoke, I am confused over the egr valve blanking plate trick versus having the injectors reconditioned, what works best, if any? The clutch pedal issue I believe not to be that serious but probably a mechanical snag in and around the foot well but yet to properly investigate. The limp mode inconvenience I am putting down to temperature and age or could it be something else??? Any help to the above from your vast knowledge is much appreciated. Cheers Steve
  15. Dump Valve Help

    08 plate Focus ST with Mountune upgrade. Running at 290 bhp. Want to fit a dump valve and have been steered towards a Forge Recirculating rather than the blow off kind. Does the Recirculating kind make any kind of noise changes to the car, or will it be un-noticeable? Many thanks in advance. Glen
  16. Hi, hope you're all well. I recently bought a 2002 Mk6 Fiesta 1.3 petrol (Duratec engine) as my first car. It had been running great until I was sat waiting in traffic the other day. All of a sudden, with the car in neutral and my foot not touching the accelerator at all, the car started to rev itself up and down - as if I was pressing down on the accelerator heavily and letting off over and over again. I turned the engine off and restarted it and it seemed fine until I approached a junction uphill in 2nd gear and it accelerated forward of its own accord! I'm a bit scared to drive it as I worry that it's going to send me shooting out into traffic. Now, when the car is sat idle, if I press down on the accelerator lightly, the car stalls and cuts out completely. Also, when slowing down to about 5mph (with the clutch down), the car stalls. When driving uphill, it feels as though the engine is misfiring and there's a lack of power for a brief second every now and then. Research online points to it being a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or something. I am clueless when it comes to cars so that means very little to me. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me in the right direction. Cheers.
  17. Hi, newbe here! I have a 56 plate mondeo 2.2 ST and for some time now nearly every journey the car goes into limp mode and had an error code at the garage telling us it's the electrics to the EGR that is the problem (the egr itself is squeaky clean) Is there a cheap option to clean electrics some how instead of paying out for a new valve. Hellllp please... It's driving me crazy!
  18. Hi There!

    Hi all, I am currently driving in a 1.3 Fiesta Finesse which I have had for just over a year and I'm just looking for some advice on things to do to my fiesta to make look a bit cooler and general up keeping of my wee ford. Thanks for reading!
  19. hi i am new to this i don't really know where to start lol before i have bought the car there was a problem with the car , and car was going to the limp mode and diagnostic couldnt really identify anything , after taking to the ford diagnostic glow plugs has been replaced cost of £500 ( with towing paying local garage etc ) then i have bought the car, engine system fault light was keep coming on , but when i start the car light was going off !! , took it to the local garage , it was egr valve , before i replaced the egr valve i put petrol in it by mistake, then engine drained but fault still there !!! anyway mechanic cleaned the egr valve with spray that didnt help at all , then last week i have bought second hand egr valve and replaced with these engines egr is part of manifold so couldnt buy it seperatly i was on holiday mechanic said car driving fine , i have picked the car up this morning driving back home engine system light come back on again i m not mechanical minded so i dont really know what could it be the fault gonna take it back there again for diagnostic , but i m thinking shall i take it to the ford and get diagnostic done there it seems like everytime i fix something , there is another thing coming up any ideas by the way car is 2006 ford focus titanium 1.8 tdci many thanks
  20. Hi Please excuse my lack of knowledge and experience with my question. Any help is very much appreciated. I have just replaced the heater control valve in my 2001 fiesta, with the help of this forum, and youtube! It all worked out ok, but the heater valve unit is fairly loose, and I gather there is usually some sort of foam rubber seating for it. I cant help thinking that the absense of this may have caused the original unit to bounce around and break one of the plastic outlet pipes. I was going to just wedge some soft material underneath to hold it in place, but wasnt sure how hot this area gets while driving? Would an old rag potentially catch fire under the valve!? Better still, would these foam rubber seatings be available for sale anywhere? I would search on ebay, but dont know what theyre called. Once again, sorry for my absolute lack of knowledge, but I'm trying to learn! Thanks Henry
  21. Hi. I've got a 09 Kuga TDCI 4wd. Had it a few months and noticed that when pulling up to traffic lights or dropping down gears to turn a corner the engine cut out. Radio etc stayed on and it didn't stall. It happened 3 times on one journey then the engine malfunction warning came on. Sent it back to the garage and the cleaned the egr, changed oil and filter. 3 weeks later it started again. Engine malfunction warning came on so sent it back again. This time the cleaned the egr valve & defuser housing, checked waste gait operation, cleaned maf sensor and throttle housing. picked it up had a good run back then pulling up to a roundabout it cuts out again! travelled another 50yards, dropped it into 2nd to turn a corner and it cut out again. Garage picked it up the next day but have called to say they can't find a fault. They have test driven it 4 times and it hasn't faulted so that's it. Anyone else had these issues - please help!!
  22. I have an issue with my ageing mk1 focus's recirculation valve motor, it is stuck completely open and when the button on the dash is pushed the light comes on and off and there is no whirring or buzzing noise from the motor like you would expect. I have checked the fuse and it's fine and I have unplugged and plugged the connector in to make sure it wasn't just loose. Do you guys have any other suggestions apart from ripping the whole unit out and replacing it? Thanks in advance.
  23. Just done some work on the back brakes (discs) and changed the brake fluid while I was at it. The stuff that came out was nasty so I'm glad I did. Now, the Haynes bible claims that I now need to bleed the clutch as well - it does feel a little "loose" now - so all well and good, except the picture in the Haynes manual looks nothing like what's on my car. It says the bleed valve is on top of the bellhousing. Took out the battery, airbox etc for a look, and I see nothing that looks remotely like the book! It shows a round rubber grommit with the valve poking through the top. I don't see that anywhere. The only bleed valve I can see in that area (I assume that's what it is), is on the end of a long thin pipe (similar gauge to the metal brake pipes) and points towards the front of the car, just below the top radiator hose. It was gone 11pm by the time I got to this point, so I've now downed tools for the night as I'm sick of the sight of it. Can anybody confirm that this is indeed the clutch bleed valve? Or not? The car is a 2005 2.0 TDCi (Euro IV). Much googling has not enlightened me.
  24. Heater Control Valve Problem

    Hi, I've recently changed the heater control valve on my 2001 ford fiesta to solve the problem that I was only getting hot air through my heaters. I changed the hcv yet the problem still remains. I had cold air temporarily but when I turned the dial to hot it got hot but remained so. Any ideas what the problem could be if its not the hcv?
  25. Im having trouble finding a part for my mk1 Focus 1.6 zetec. I have a split breather hose behind the inlet manifold. One end of the hose connects to the pcv valve and the two other ends go into the engine. Its an easy repair but cant find the part anywhere. There seem to be two different part numbers, 96MF-6C342 DA and 1337254 but I can only find the part on european websites. Im not sure if the uk part has a different part number. Ive attached photos of the part and where it goes.