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Showing results for tags 'forums/fault+codes'.

Found 114 results

  1. My 2013 ford fiesta 1L ecoboost's start stop isnt working, the button to turn it on and off just stays illuminated when pressed, you can turn the light off when the ignition is on but as soon as you start the car the light comes on and you cannot turn the light off, and therefor the start stop isnt working.  any advice  thanks  
  2. Most of us are driving around with errors on our car, and we don't even realise it. Mainly because the small niggles don't affect our day to day driving. Focus owners are lucky as they have the "Secret Dash Trick" but what if you don't own a Focus? and you don't have a trip computer? The easiest way for us on the forums to help you, is if you have an "OBD" Scanner - and you may be surprised that they are DIRT cheap! OBD is the cars "On Board Diagnostics" system. If there is an error with your car sensor, or another error that you are either well aware of (or perhaps not). then OBD might just save you £60 minimum diagnostics fee with a dealer, and perhaps a whole lot more in repairs... What is OBD? On Board Diagnostics has been in use for many years, as early as 1996 a lot of cars have it. From 2001 (Petrol) and 2004 (Diesel) the standard of OBDII came in, and all cars after this time will have an OBDII interface that you can use. Not only can OBD be used to diagnose issues, but it also allows you to monitor the likes of efficiency in your car. there are so many applications available that will read the data in different ways, if you want an app for 0-60 with BHP readouts - Torque Pro. If you want an app for your economy usage "Efficiency (Free)" can be your new best friend. Does my car have OBD? The requirement is that an OBDII connection MUST be accessible to the driver within 2 feet of the driver position. The usual location is about knee height and on the right or left side of your knee (depending on the LHD or RHD model you own). Its normally recessed, and running your hand along the dash you will feel it, it may perhaps be hidden under the steering column, behind a panel (look for a removable panel somewhere around the dashboard at knee height) or behind an ashtray. There also tends to be one on the bulkhead of the engine compartment. Mst likely under a cover, so check your fusebox, and you may see it. How do I use OBD? You can buy a universal adapter that will fit any car with an OBD socket. See below links to a couple of types (Bluetooth) and an example USB version. Smartphone Users: Look at your smartphones App Store for a program called "Torque" - this comes in a freeware version and a Paid for version. Torque allows you to scan for and clear down error codes, also clicking the error code can take you to a page where you can see in plain english - what the error means. It allows you to view live data readings and also map out your vehicles data (downloadable to PC). Two types of Bluetooth Adapters for sale on ebay: Laptop Users: You can buy a USB version that will plug into your laptop. they tend to come with drivers and applications that you can use to interact with your car's data. Also, if you purchase a modified ELM 327 cable with a High and Medium speed can bus (click here for more information)then you can use software such as ForScan. This is an excellent piece of software that debugs more than just Ford's but allows you to automatically scan High and Medium speed for errors, view in clear text the errors seen, and reset them in turn. I have used this and find it an excellent piece of free software. Any User: I Forgot when writing this that there is the entirely seperate "standalone" code reader. Its a handheld device that will read the code and control it through a handheld unit, prices for these differ, as little as £10.00 and up to a lot more. You can buy these for an average of £25 - £30 for a relatively branded unit. Which OBD version do I have? OBDII is the current standard but there have been other releases before. The older your car, the older the OBD support, so vehicles around 1996 will be OBD 1 and later vehicles 1.5 or 2. Always contact the seller if you are unsure if the device you are looking to purchase is compatible with your car. Generally speaking, if your car is older than 2004, you will probably have an OBDI device, and not an OBDII device. Again, refer to the seller to identify if this is the correct one for you. Why should I buy into this? Combination of an OBD adapter, and software to accompany it, most of the time will come in under £15. For that money, you have a way to track your cars readings, and check all the error codes. A simple problem with a sensor could cost you as little as £60 to diagnose with a dealer, and then whatever ludicrous labour fee's are applicable to resolve this issue. If you are handy with a spanner, or know someone who is, your first problem resolution will only cost you £15 plus whatever cost for the part, any problems after that you are self diagnosing for free. Providing the members of this forum with error codes means that we can provide you with more accurate details, and suggestions to resolve your problems. Limitations: Please note that when you buy an adapter of this nature, there ARE limitations. These adapters and software combinations cannot diagnose some systems, ABS and Airbag for example, but it can clear there error codes. Will It damage my car? Budget OBDII readers can only ever read data from the engine, and switch the Engine Management Light off - 99.9% of scanners on the market will not damage your car. Be wary of buying from abroad, as these may be cheaper still, but these are the 0.01% that may damage your car. What About Apple? Unfortunately, Apple is an issue for this sort of task. Apple use a hybrid "bluetooth" stack, which although claims to be bluetooth, its not "bluetooth" by the rest of the worlds description, its more "Apple's rewriting of bluetooth". Its generally seen that Bluetooth adapters wont work with Apple, and you may be better off getting a WiFi adapter and connect to this. For apple compatible devices though (Wi-Fi or bluetooth) There's this: that I have heard of. but they do say if you have a bluetooth adapter, to contact support before hand. Alternatively, suggestion is that a code a good tool to use, but again, ensure that they confirm it will work, or at least get refund reassurances. The most expensive I have seen yet (but best reported on) is REV: investment. Summary So that's it - its a cheap, and harmless way to get information from your cars computer. Whether error diagnostics, or to see how much damage you are doing to the environment, or if you just want to brag to your friends about what your current BHP reads at. So, I hope this inspires you! Many who buy an adapter never look back, I have yet to come across a single individual who has regretted buying one. But remember, buy cheap but don't expect the world, but these cheap adapters could be more than enough to dig you out of a hole. If you want to buy something better, there are more than enough tools out there that you can look to upgrade to. Scanguage is an excellent device and there are a lot of other handheld units that could improve the result. If you have any questions, look around the forum, or feel free to send me a PM and I will be happy to help. If there is enough interest, I am sure all of us here will be happy to help you if you need to start a thread. Please remember, the above links are not recommendations, we are not gaining any revenue from advertising them, but I can say that I own two of them and they work fine for me ;)
  3. engine system fault

    Hi all   i hope someone can help. i have a Ford C-Max, 2007 reg, 1.6 petrol engine. today the car has come up with a fault "engine system fault", then says "speed limited mode", and a red light is on. can anyone shed any light onto this please? from what I've read elsewhere this problem is quite serious and never seems to go away! need advice and help please.   thanks. 
  4. Hi all I've got a 56 plate Fiesta Zetec and there seems to be a problem with the Dash Computer, the one in between the Rev Count and Speedometer that displays the mileage and outside temp along with average fuel consumption etc.. Basically I was driving home this evening and noticed the display has almost faded completely! Its still lit up green (when the light are on) but the actual numbers and display you can barely see at all. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Thanks in advance!
  5. Have got fault codes p0251 & p1211 on a Mondeo 2003 dci any ideas !
  6. Hi all, My 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi came up with an engine systems failure message today just coming off of a dual carriageway (70mph) accompanied by a red light next to the trip computer. I think it went into limp mode (severly reduced power, unwiling to rev much), so not good when you live at the top of a hill! Two other times when starting the car it has briefly displayed an error message (once it said "steering assist failure", and yesterday it came up with the same engine systems failure message"). Both times I have restarted the car and it disappeared. The car is a 2006 on an 06 plate, and has currently done 73500 miles. I bought it last may at 65000 miles, and it had a service just before I bought it. As it had just turned 6 years old/65000 miles, I'm presuming the DPF would have been changed then? Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Minnis
  7. Sup Guys Could really do with some help. I've got a ford fiesta flight 2001 1.3L endura E engine 89,000 hours. Whenever I start the ignition its start fine every time, but immediately after the ignition the revs drop over a period of 30 seconds until the engine eventually stalls. Regardless of whether I try to raise the revs with the medal, it doesnt help. recently it broke down due "miss firing" after which new ignition/HT leads were fitted. Now this issue has cropped up and I've tried having the battery and spark plugs replaced with no change. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated
  8. Hi, I got an engine system fault error pop up on the instrument cluster with the red light about 2 weeks ago and it went into limp mode. I took it to kwik fit and their bosch reader couldn't find any error codes. The error went away on its own and I was back out of limp mode. But the error is back! I now have an OBD cable and tried out forscan, it has picked up multiple DTC errors but I am unsure which one is causing the engine system fault (if any) and which faults are most severe, could someone have a look at the attached PDF and give me some advice? One thing that does look like it needs replacing is the battery? For extra info: Mileage: 100,000 miles EGR blanked Fuel and air filter at ~85k Oil change ~97k Euro 4 - DPF (according to ETIS) EDIT: removed attached codes as these are from the demo mode of forscan
  9. Hello everyone! I have bought a ford focus 8/2008 (1600cc, SIDA motor) since this October and I am generally satisfied. But... there is a but .... In the last 10 days I have been facing the following problem: It happened three times that I tried to start the engine and I got an error message on the display "Engine malfunction" and the engine was not starting. Along with the error message there was also a sound warning. After several times that I opened/closed the key switch, I no longer saw that message and the engine started. This message also appeared once when i was on the road, followed by a second message "acceleration reduced". It was like it went to "safe mode". I tried also with the second key without any luck. It seems that it is not an immobilizer issue. I went to a car mechanic and during diagnostic check I got these errors: u0001 - High Speed ​​CAN Communication Bus u0155 - Lost communication with instrument panel p1260 - Theft detected, vehicle immobilised Mechanic said that he needs to investigate it further. Do you have any ideas guys? Did these messages appeared to anyone of you ? Most of the forums say that it may be the instrumental cluster but i want to be sure before i change it. PS: When i bought the car (This October) I put a new battery. I dont know if the error messages are related to this fact. Thanks, Nick
  10. Recently whilst going to work in the morning the car sudddenly stuttered and "Engine Malfunction" light came on. I stopped and swithced car off and started car again, no problems whatsoever, however just to be on the safe side rang AA to come and have a look. The chap did an OBD reading and fault code P2290 came on however the car was driving fine. It's been all ok for the past week however last night on my way home, the car had the same problem, however this time, I was overtaking a lorry and it felt as if the car lacked power at 70mph after stopping and starting the engine. This morning everything was fine again. I contacted a garage who told me that it could be the fuel sensor regulator switch made by bosch or it could be EGR, TURBO, FUEL PUMP and to drop the car off to have a look. It seems that when I go above 3000 rpm on the motorway this problem seems to pop up. I nearly got killed last night!!!!! Anyone had anything similar problems? 1.6TDCI 110HP 59 Plate (service at ford garage according to service schedules, all maintenance done etc) Thanks
  11. Hello! Got a fault on my 2005 focus 1.8 tdci, hoping someone on here can shed some light on the situation. I get engine systems fault on the dash along with lack of power and a chattering noise under load. I have checked all of the boost hoses for splits, I've checked the intercooler, I've cleaned the air flow sensors both on airbox and boost pipe. Its had recent diesel filter. The turbo appears to be working as it should be. When I plugged the car in the only two faults were turbocharger underboost and vehicle speed sensor. I'm out of ideas :( Any help would be much appreciated!
  12. S Max Fault Code Help?

    Hi all just looking for some info on my s max purchased 9 weeks ago love the car just having few teething problems and starting to aggravate me had a fault code come up c07480 or 7480 not sure as took a pic and its not completely clear, but been getting engine malfunction appear with esp light staying on soon as engines off it goes, any advice would be appreciated Thanks Grant
  13. Hi all, I keep getting this warning light pop up on my dash. Has happened 4 times in the past 2 weeks, usually first thing in the morning. As soon as it appears it either resets straight away, or resets once the engine is restarted (rebooted) but the gears lurch around every time which makes me nervous about the pending icey roads we'll soon have. It's a Ford Kuga Titanium X 2011 - so I don't think it should suffer such a fault being relatively new as it's only done 60k miles. I spoke to the Ford garage the other day and they did the well worn 'ooooh...never heard of that problem before.....' line, but looking on here people seem to have experienced this with other models of Ford. Does any one have any experiences or help they can share with me please? Cheers all!
  14. Rough Running At Low Rpm

    Hi, I have a persistent (i.e. our local garage has failed twice to fix it) problem with a 2008 Fiesta 1.4 petrol. The engine seems to have a real rough spot just above idling revs. At idle it is fine, and it always starts no problem. At 1600RPM+ it is fine; it never misses a beat. However, if in slowing traffic on a level road, I back off the throttle, it often becomes rough around 1200-1500 RPM, even if there is very little or no load on the engine. It does this hot, cold or in between, but is probably worse when the engine is part-warm. I believe modern engines such as this one cut the petrol completely when you take your foot off the accelerator, and then some mechanism kicks in when the revs drop to idling, to prevent the engine simply stalling. I could be way off the mark here, but does the oxygen sensor have anything to do with this? The garage has fitted new plugs, leads and a coil pack, all at great expense, none of which have had any effect at all on this problem. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Kind wishes ~ Patrick
  15. The engine malfunction light has been constantly showing on my 2009 focus Econetic for last two months. Had it since new and now 83'000 miles. Was doing 80miles a day to work and back until last year, now much shorter. I was told by local mechanic that it may be the DPF filter and to try additive and 30 minutes on motorway at high revs. I tried this and nothing happened. Decided to take the car to ford dealer at Inverurie today, got call back saying they would advise a regeneration programme which will cost me approx £400. £250 for additive and £150 to perform. Told me that there may also be other faults that they can't see until this one is cleared, although the regeneration may not do the trick. Anyone know whether this is the usual cost for this type of work? And whether this is true about not being able to see other fault codes until the DPF one is fixed? Any advice before I go back to garage tomorrow would be appreciated...
  16. Hi guys I have a focus 1.8 TDCI 2006 (71000m), we have owned it nearly 18 months and to be fair we have had issues from the start. We have replaced glow plugs and had it serviced as it should. Recently I had to replace the silicone elbow that runs directly off the turbo as it split (awful design!). After all this it still drives rough until one morning where at a roundabout all the lights came on the dash and it just lost all power, lights went off and it had nothing in it, no power or ignition lights at all. We replaced the alternator as it had burnt inside and put a new battery in it as well. We thought this had solved our dodgy ride but about three months later its back again, struggles in low gears, stalls when pulling off and keeps throwing the drive train fault code up! Any ideas? Im thinking EGR? Elec fault? could be anything but any cheap solutions to rule out certain things I would be grateful. Thanks
  17. Hi, my 2008 Mondeo has been intermittently displaying the ESP light while driving. By intermittent, I mean if I turn the engine off the light does not come back on for a while - it could be the next trip, or 1000 miles later it is that sporadic. I have had a code reader put on the car today and the errors it is showing is: U040168-48 Invalid data received from ECM U041668-2A Invalid data Vehicle Dynamics Module Also, when should the timing belts be changed on 2008 1.8tdci engines? Thanks 2008 Mondeo 1.8TDCI 109k
  18. Limp Mode

    Hi I am new here I took my ford focus for a drive after it just been sat on drive for 2 weeks and noticed it had no power, I noticed this when it wouldn't pull me up a hill in second then wouldn't when dropped to first, there is no warning light on dash. It doesn't happen all the time some times its normal. Anyone got any ideas?
  19. Hi I have had these fault codes come up together. P0620 and p0380. Has anybody else had these together? I have checked injector wiring and alternator wiring. The alternator is charging fine. The fault code goes away until you accelerate hard. Just wondered if anybody else has had the problem really?
  20. Problem With Alarm

    My C-Max (UK 2004 Mk.I Zetec 1.6 TDCi) alarm has recently started going off at random. Currently seems to once every few days or so. Have seen some suggestions about bonnet catch being an issue. Anyone know of a way to check the catch is at fault before I replace it? Anyone know anything else I can/should check? Anyone know how to disable the alarm until I can get it fixed? Thanks!
  21. Hi Everyone, I have just bought a Ford Fiesta 1.2 2002 (yesterday) it was running fine yesterday although the engine light was lit on the dashboard. We have checked oil, coolant etc and all are near max. We then looked in the glove box to check the fuses shown as the ones for the engine light and they were both fine. But we have now gone to start the car and the immobiliser has kicked in so the car is no longer starting at all! We have tried both keys and neither are working. The codes being read are 77 and 16 (may be wrong if read incorrectly) Please could someone with any idea as to how we can fix this please let me know. Also does anyone know if RAC can fix this problem as because it isn't starting we can't even get it to a garage to get it fixed. Thanks guys
  22. Is It Worth Fixing???

    Hi, I have a 2006 C-Max 1.8 TDCI Zetec. I parked it on the driveway about 5 weeks ago and during running it up a few weeks ago it came up with various messages, two I remember as being about steering assist failure and limited acceleration and then it cut out, tried starting it but it would not even turn over and the red light in the centre of the dash flashes randomly when the ignition is on. Put a hand held diagnostic on it this morning and it came up with 4 codes which are 1) U0121 anti lock brakes, 2) U0140 body control module, 3) U0155, instrument panel cluster and 4) U0131 power steering module. Has anyone else had anything similar and if so did it cost a lot to sort out? any advice would be appreciated, many thanks, Si
  23. Hi all, I have a 2011 Titanium X Mondeo which I have just purchased. However, an annoying fault has just surfaced with regards to the Speed Limiter and Cruise Control functions. Last Saturday, the Speed Limiter function stopped working all of a sudden. I had been in my car for about 2-3 minutes, set it to 30mph, and was approaching some lights when it disengaged automatically. I pressed the button on the wheel to switch it back on but nothing happened. I tried long press, short press, hard press etc, but nothing. The cruise control button also did not respond I noticed. It stayed like this for well over an hour, and I only realised it had come back to life when I tried it later on in the journey. I mentioned this on Wednesday to my local Ford garage but was told that it was very hard to diagnose if they can’t see the fault. As I drove off, I set the limiter and the fault just happen to appear again and the same thing happened… I approached some lights after about 2-3 minutes and it dropped out and would not come back to life. I turned round and went straight back to the garage while the fault was still present. One of technicians ran some diagnostics on the car and found (I think he said) a communication fault to do with the instrument control panel, but he wasn’t able to identify if it was software related or even just a loose connection. I believe he then cleared the fault on his computer so that it showed clear on his laptop and all working, but the actual fault of the Speed Limiter and Cruise Control buttons not working, was still present. I have attached a screenshot of what his computer said. The actual fault remained present until I got home. So maybe what his computer showed was not the Speed Limiter fault maybe? Half an hour after I got home, I had to go out again and low and behold, everything was working ok again. The buttons weren’t working when I parked up, but had come back to life once I had got back in the car. So there is a definite intermittent fault somewhere, but from what I understand, it will quite difficult to diagnose and was certainly not a fault the local garage had seen before. Has anyone heard of this before? It has happened a third time now. The only common thing I can link all three times with is that I turned the speed limiter function on within about 2-4 minutes of starting the engine. Do Mondeos need a few minutes to warm up and boot up maybe!?!? I also have the PowerShift gearbox. I have used the function plenty of times in a journey, but on those occasions, I have turned into on later in the journey. It could be purely coincidental, but that is the only common thing I can think of. If anyone knows the answer, then it would be great to hear from you, as my Ford garage are scratching their heads. Thanks, Matt
  24. Hello all, You have a great forum here so as a new Ford KA owner, I thought this the best community to ask for help please. I have just bought a 2003 Ford KA 1.3 79,000 miles (Duratech engine) and it has an annoying fault. At 10-15% throttle car pulls perfectly no issues. At 15%+ the car stutters and jerks as if it is out of fuel or in too high a gear. It will do this whether it is under load or at idle. I think that it is worse when the car is warm. The previous owner has done the following last month: Changed the Spark Plugs Changed the HT leads Changed the Coil Pack Changed the Air Filter Changed the Fuel Filter(none of these were Ford parts I think) The indy garage also ran a diagnostic which showed no fault and they cleared the ECU. None of the above steps helped the problem. I have run the on-board self diagnostic and receive the following fault code: DT 412 I have looked on the interweb and it says: 412 ® Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) – ISC It appears to idle correctly? Certainly does not stutter or stall on tick over at all. I have looked over the web and it has been suggested it could be any of the following: Plugs/leadsFuel FilterMAF sensorDirty Throttle BodyLambda SensorIdle Control Valve Items in Bold have been fixed already but it worries me they were not using official Ford parts as I have seen many threads say that the KA is not tolerant of these. What is your experience here? Do you use aftermarket parts successfully? Has anyone got a few ideas that I could work through to try and find the problem at all please? I cannot take this to a Ford garage right now as money is tight. The car was cheap (and sold as seen) and will get me to work and back but it would be great if this was a simple and repairable fault. I am quite mechanically minded so will happily try any fixes myself. Over to you guys, I know you will be able to help! Baz
  25. Hi All, First post here, unfortunately in need of advice. The speedo on my 2004 MK1 Focus stops working intermittently (stays at 0). This happens approximately every other journey. The odometer also stops recording miles when the speedo stops. This is accompanied by it occasionally stalling when I pull up to a stop as the engine falls back to idle. I have not noticed a lack of power as other people have but this could just be as I am gently driving around town. The same applies for the drop in radio level. I have only noticed the speedo stopping working when I am moving off from stationery (it doesn't seem to stop whilst it is showing a speed). I have only done short journeys since this has started happening (less than 10 mins/3 miles) and it has yet to start working again. When I restart the car it resumes working. Having read other posts here and on other forums I was relieved that it appeared to be the VSS. I got this changed but the same symptoms are occuring. All the other dials are working OK throughout. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I think its unlikely the new VSS is faulty. Incidently it was replaced by a previous owner in 2009. Thanks in advance... Doug