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Showing results for tags 'forums/idle+control'.

Found 89 results

  1. After driving my Focus MK2 for over 6 1/2 Years it was time for something new. Of course it had to be a Focus MK3. Unfortunately there were only a few (very young,low mileage) used cars for same in the country which met my requirements. After a long search and even considering a brand new lower spec car I finally found a suitable replacement for my Focus MK2: 2013 Focus MK3 5-doors Champions Edition My car is a German spec Focus MK3 Champions Edition. Because of the Ford sponsorship of the Champions Leage in 2013 Ford Germany offered this special (limited) edition for a few months. My car has the following options: Engine: 1.0 ECOboost 125 PS with 6-speed manual transmission. Color: Midnicht Sky metallic. Interior: Ultimate/Lux / Charcoal Black Options: Front and Rear Parking Sensors. Active Park Assist. Active City stop. Powerfold Mirrors. Power 1-shot Up/Down Front & Rear Windows. Global opening/closing (remote control) Rear Privacy Glass. Dual Zone Climate Control. Heated Windshield. Heated Washer jets. Heated Seats. Start/Stop System. Rain Sensor. Light Sensor. Front Fog Lights. SYNC with APPlink. DDS Tyre Deflation Warning System. Hill Start Assist. The car did have 16 inch alloy wheels as standard but because I like my own 17 inch alloy Focus MK2.5 wheels a bit more I decided to install my own wheels instead of the original 16 inch alloy wheels. In my opinion these wheels look great on the Focus MK3. During winter I drive on a set of 15 inch steel Focus MK2/MK2.5 wheels with Goodyear Ultragrip winter tyres. Despite 15 inch wheels were officially never available for the European Focus MK3 they fit without any problems on the 1.0 ECOboost models. The 1.6 TI-VCT and 1.0 ECOboost versions have 278 mm front disc brakes. This is exactly the same disc size as the Focus MK2/MK2.5 versions which were available with 15 inch wheels. On other Focus MK3 engine types Ford used bigger brakes which require at least 16 inch wheels. My Focus MK3 did originally not have Cruise Control. Cruise Control was not a standard feature on the German spec Champions Edition. Strange enough the first owner did order all possible options which were available on the Champions edition except Cruise Control. Because I am used to have Cruise Control and I really miss it I decided to retrofit Cruise Control to my car. There are some aftermarket solutions to retrofit Cruise Control to a Focus MK3 but personally I do not want an extra stalk or aftermarket buttons. So I decided to retrofit the OEM Cruise Control system. Because I could not find a mint condition replacement Cruise Control steering wheel for my car I decided to modify my own steering wheel instead of buying a new one. In my opinion it looks very good. The Cruise Control switch fits perfectly into the cutout I made at the side of the steering wheel. The Cruise Control switch is a very snug fit and all edges line up perfectly. The steering wheel does look exactly the same as an original Cruise Control steering wheel. From the outside there are no visible differences. I wrote a guide about retrofitting Cruise Control to a Focus MK3. This guide can be found on the following weblink: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/tutorials/article/274-retrofitting-original-cruise-control-on-a-focus-mk3/ After a few weeks I really missed the HID lights I had in my previous Focus MK2 so I decided to install new headlights. After a long search I decided to buy a pair of Sky Wing projector headlights. http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y388/ford_focusMK2/DSC04006_zpsf2e7014f.jpg I installed a 4300K HID kit into the Sky Wing headlights. The light image and the light output are very good and the Sky Wing headlights look great. Next I decided to install DRL lights. I bought these lights from a Taiwanese seller on the AliExpress website. The DRL lights are made of high quality materials and look very good. Some time ago I found some illuminated rear bumper reflectors on Ebay. However the price was ridiculous so I decided to wait a little longer. A few weeks later I found the same reflectors in an internet auction. I made the seller an offer and bought the reflectors for a really good price. The illuminated rear bumper reflectors look really nice. The light output is about the same as the original taillights. I also made the following modifications to the car: * The "Focus" and "Econetic Technologies" badges removed from the tailgate. * The "Champions League" badges removed from the B-pillars. * Rear seat hinge covers installed (originally used on a focus MK1.5). * I installed front and rear Titanium interior lights with LED lights and reading lights. Because of the different wiring/connectors I made an adapter wiring loom to connect the Titanium interior lights to the standard wiring loom. * I installed the original footwell lights. I changed the red LED's to ice blue LED's (same color as original). * I changed the red/orange control lights of all switches to ice blue LED's (same color as original). * I changed the 3.5 Inch monochrome MFD display to a 5 inch Sat Nav colour display. Afterwards I retrofitted the complete OEM Sat Nav system. * I installed LED bulbs into the puddle lights. * K&N 57S air filter. This Year I plan to do some more modifications on the car. The next modifications are on my wish list: * New instrument cluster with a bigger display. * New OEM rearview camera.
  2. Mk2.5 fitting cruise control

    I'm thinking of fitting CC to my focus and I've seen some steering wheels on eBay and just wondered if they were the right ones ano wondered if ford dealers activated it or not, the links below are of the steering wheels I have found if anyone has any advice or tips that would be great, thanks :)  http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/301866028862  http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/111872166314 
  3. hi all i have a 97 escort which has some idle problem it seems to hold itself at around 3000 rpm and sometimes stalls when stopping its up and down on the revs all the time now can anyone help
  4. Hello, I've sourced some replacement cruise control buttons for my 1.8 07 plate S-Max after forking out a few quid for DM Flywheel slave cylinder and clutch, what's a another £100! I know after reading around it needs a software update to enable cruise control - can anyone near me help for a few quid? I'm just over the severn Bridge but can drive over anyone local-ish. Otherwise It will be a case of asking the dealers, probably getting initially some confused looks, then "oh that's not something we can do" followed by "okay hand over £200 and we'll have a bash" Cheers!
  5. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete
  6. Hi Ford Brits, I have recently taken delivery of a new 2015 Mondeo Titanium wagon (I think this aligns with your Titanium X...anyway it's top of the range). Apart from a nasty incident with about 1000 miles on the clock where the power steering failed on a windy road (!), I have an ongoing query about the use of cruise control in this car. I'm hoping that the vast experience on this board may be able to come up with a definitive answer - Ford Australia haven't had this car available for very long, so their knowledge of detailed topics appears very slim... So, the question: on the wide range of vehicles I have driven professionally over the last 15 years or so, once cruise control is set, the driver can adjust the speed manually by pressing the + button or - button. The increments are always 1km/h per press. On some cars, if you hold the + or - button for a second or so, the speed set varies by 5km/h or even 10km/h. In all cases though, the minimum increment is 1km/h. On my Mondeo, even though the Manual says it should change by 1km/h, it ONLY moves by 5km/h increments. If you're doing say, 83, one '+' press takes it to 85, but further presses move it to 90, then 95 etc. And the same in reverse ('-'). Can someone check on their car, or provide any advice? I wondered whether it could be configured in software... Thanks for your help, Happycamper700
  7. Info On A Couple Of Mods

    hey guys, just wondering if any one has any information, price range and level of difficulty to install global locking and cruise control in my 57 plate focus. cheers
  8. I have a 2011 1.6 Mk 3 focus. It runs fine in general but occasionally the engine dies at low revs - e.g. when slowing down in traffic. It starts again with no problem. Only happens once or twice a day. I can more or less simulate this when stationary by blipping the accelerator - the idle speed occ drops below 500 rpm and nearly stalls but usually recovers. The engine management light doesn't come on and there are no fault codes stored. I suspect idle control valve or IAC but I'm not sure what this engine has and what to try to clean or replace. There's a lot of posts about older models but not much on Mk3's All advice appreciated.
  9. Weird Noise On Idle

    Hi guys, my Fiesta makes a really weird noise when idle, I can't even describe it, but it sounds like in this video: The car seems to be running fine, no issues really, but it just doesn't sound healthy. A comment for the video says it's water pump, but another person on yt said he changed the water pump and that didn't help. Any ideas before I spend money on a repair?
  10. ?less Bluetooth

    Hi everyone I have been looking on this website for a little while now and I am about to buy a titanium Ford Fiesta, but I'm a little confused, and don't worry I will be going back to the sales team to find out these things for sure, but in the meantime I am researching like crazy and coming up empty, Basically what it is is is during our meeting today was informed that the car has Bluetooth and voice activation and reads out text messages etc etc, however when looking at home on the "go to website" Ford Etis that that the guy was using in the sales room and bearing in mind I had looked at so many was confused which car had what, he stated that it has the voice activation etc, but on researching myself, it says less Bluetooth, less voice activation nodules, but has this ICE DAB radio. Not quite sure what I'm looking for to see if it has ford sync on there, as on the ford etis website it doesn't list ford sync at all. Does anyone know if it has the ability to sync music and phone calls etc and whether it does have voice activation etc? Can anyone shed any light, or have I completely confused everyone what I'm asking? Thanks everyone and apologies for confusing paragraph.
  11. Hoping someone can help with this annoying issue. Recently, and more obviously when cold, I have been getting a jerky/juddering sensation in the car when idle. On startup, the revs sit for a second or so just under 1000, then drop a bit and then the juddering starts. The jumpyness goes when you give it a bit of right foot, say up to 1200-1500. It seems that often this will disappear after the car has warmed up/by the end of a journey, but sometimes it continues this throughout a journey and you notice it when sat at lights, junctions etc. There has also been a whining noise when accelerating though the low gears for the past few weeks. From reading around this could perhaps be the alternator or belt tensioner pulley. At night when idling the interior lights and headlights, as well as the backlights of the stereo, buttons etc will flicker. It had a new injector a few months ago which significantly reduced the rough idle from the compression loss etc. and a Terraclean 2 weeks ago.
  12. Hi Guys, I have 2 problems to which I hope here can help me sort and I hope this thread might help someone else. I have a Ford Focus MK1 1.6 Zetec (engine pictured below). My problem No.1 is it idle's on the 700-750rpm line and kinda shakes the cabin more than it should, it feels wrong and sometimes hunts for idle. Problem No.2 when i turn things like the light, blowers and front/back heated windscreen the revs drop to about 650 and shake the car considerable more to a point where you think it might stall but never does. Too be clear, my car does not have a MAF sensor. I have changed: - Idle valve sensore - Throttle position sensor - Coil Pack and leads I have checked: - PVC/breather valve hoses into the T and all is good - All hoses involved in air intake for a potential vacuum leak. I also used carb cleaner to spray every area to see if revs increase with no luck. - Battery/alternator connections wiggled and everything. - Earth connections cleaned. At the moment I can't find anything with anything but I did check battery voltage at Idle. Voltage at idle - 14.3V Voltage at idle with front electric windscreen heater on - 12.5V Not sure if this is a problem as when I rev the car the voltage increases with the heaters/lights on from 12.5V plus past 14V, any one have a view on this? Could the culprit be all along the alternator? Next actions - Apparently the PCV valve can cause this if broke, anyone have a view on this? Im also gonna do a ECU reset. Disconnect batt for 20 mins, let it idle for 20 mins then drive for 5 miles. I heard this works. One last thing is Ford do a ECU update to sort this out people say, is this BULL???? One thing to add my exhaust does have a blow but i don't think this will cause any of the above. If anyone has any ideas/experiences or tips please share I would be very appreciative. Thanks Jono ADDED: Forgot to say my car says there are no fault codes stored.
  13. I own a Ford Focus CC3 2008 2.0 tdci and for a while now have been experiencing engine malfunction on dash. Recently had fuel filter changed twice, fuel volume valve replaced, egr cleaned and dpf replaced, the message is still coming up. Now it's not showing any fault codes and seems to only come on when the car has warmed up and when idle, drives fine and the message will sometimes go out but once I stop it beeps at me again. I have also changed the air filter. Took it to a diesel specialist and they say nothing showing up when they stick it on the computer, I asked if I should take it to Ford but he said they use their software. Also if I put my foot down the esp light comes and stays on. Any ideas what this might be? Appreciate any feedback Thanks Kylie
  14. Mk5 Heat Problem

    I've heard and read that fiesta MK4 and MK5s can have a heat problem with either hot or cold constantly feeding through and not being able to change the temperature. Mine is doing the exact same. It's feeding through constant hot air. After having read a solution, I thought it could be a thermostat problem. The guy I bought the car from told me he'd already changed that not so long before I bought the car and it was bought in March. I then read it could be a heater control valve problem. I changed the heater control valve and it worked! For a day or two... No I'm slightly stumped as to what next to look for. I don't believe it could be the matrix. I don't think there is a blockage anywhere otherwise it wouldn't have worked as soon as it was swapped. I'm reluctant to think its the connection as I checked that while swapping over the HCV and it seemed OK. Plus, it wasn't all that long ago. There's definitely no Leaks. The head gasket hasn't gone and its not on its way out. A few people had mentioned the heater control panel might be an issue. The fans are working on all settings but there's no wires running from the temperature knob. It's all running from the fan switch, the bottom of the PCB board and the 12v power supply. I don't think it could be the HCP neither becauxe it was working g when the HCV was swapped over. And I'm sure the wiring is normal anyhow. Has anyone got any ideas? I've searched all over this forum and I can't seem to find the answer. I'd rather not take it tons mechanic and part with my money haha. Thanks guys.
  15. Hi folks i have a ford mondeo titanium x model and just recently had it mot'd only to find that i had no brake lights at all after some investigation by my mechanic found it to be a fault with the body control module apparently these are £600 to buy from ford +fitting and coding to the car my mechanic has bypassed the modue with a bit of wireing but but i want it back to factory standard HELP
  16. I just finished installing my S&C module 8M5T-19C112-AH. I made all the wiring mods and added a GLI. Great sound. USB works great. All titles are displayed in the NAV and in the Convers+. Full control over changing songs etc. IPOD and hard drive work great. Also have Bluetooth audio!! That was a great surprise. I thought BT audio was only available in -xM units and later. Additional cell phone options (last call made, last call rcvd...) are displayed in the Convers+!! Here's my problem. My previous BT/VC module was a 7S7T-19G488-BE, German language. I installed a 8M5T-19C112-AH, supposedly English, but the voice control is still in German. How do I change the voice control language. German isn't a problem for me, but the VC doesn't like my accent. Help!!!
  17. Please don't waste your money and buy from ebay I made this mistake buy from Fords Even my car is old it is reregistered disabled so Fords gave me a price then I asked for the 20% V.A.T off man looked confused as long as the car is reregistered disabled and I buy the part from Fords it is exempt from the 20% and presto got the 20% off Car is nice and cold again will never buy from ebay again but did get my money back from the seller in full
  18. Hi all, I have a 2011 Titanium X Mondeo which I have just purchased. However, an annoying fault has just surfaced with regards to the Speed Limiter and Cruise Control functions. Last Saturday, the Speed Limiter function stopped working all of a sudden. I had been in my car for about 2-3 minutes, set it to 30mph, and was approaching some lights when it disengaged automatically. I pressed the button on the wheel to switch it back on but nothing happened. I tried long press, short press, hard press etc, but nothing. The cruise control button also did not respond I noticed. It stayed like this for well over an hour, and I only realised it had come back to life when I tried it later on in the journey. I mentioned this on Wednesday to my local Ford garage but was told that it was very hard to diagnose if they can’t see the fault. As I drove off, I set the limiter and the fault just happen to appear again and the same thing happened… I approached some lights after about 2-3 minutes and it dropped out and would not come back to life. I turned round and went straight back to the garage while the fault was still present. One of technicians ran some diagnostics on the car and found (I think he said) a communication fault to do with the instrument control panel, but he wasn’t able to identify if it was software related or even just a loose connection. I believe he then cleared the fault on his computer so that it showed clear on his laptop and all working, but the actual fault of the Speed Limiter and Cruise Control buttons not working, was still present. I have attached a screenshot of what his computer said. The actual fault remained present until I got home. So maybe what his computer showed was not the Speed Limiter fault maybe? Half an hour after I got home, I had to go out again and low and behold, everything was working ok again. The buttons weren’t working when I parked up, but had come back to life once I had got back in the car. So there is a definite intermittent fault somewhere, but from what I understand, it will quite difficult to diagnose and was certainly not a fault the local garage had seen before. Has anyone heard of this before? It has happened a third time now. The only common thing I can link all three times with is that I turned the speed limiter function on within about 2-4 minutes of starting the engine. Do Mondeos need a few minutes to warm up and boot up maybe!?!? I also have the PowerShift gearbox. I have used the function plenty of times in a journey, but on those occasions, I have turned into on later in the journey. It could be purely coincidental, but that is the only common thing I can think of. If anyone knows the answer, then it would be great to hear from you, as my Ford garage are scratching their heads. Thanks, Matt
  19. Ford Focus 2014 Aircon

    The aircon on my 2014 Focus failed after about 8000 miles and it being just over 1 year old. The garage want £470 to fix it and say it isn't a warranty item as the condensor has been damaged by road debris. I've spoken to Ford Customer care and they are taking the side of the garage. My argument is that if it has been damaged at such a low mileage then the condensor is not adequately protected and it is a design fault and Ford should pay for the repair (or at a minimum contribute). Ford however completely disagree and say they are unwilling to help in any way whatsoever. Naturally I'm concerned this problem may re-occur. Is anybody aware of this being a common problem, or can anybody offer any advise as to what I might do? Thank you
  20. Focus Ghia Cruise Control Problem

    hello this is my first topic on this amazing forum my cruise control switch that is located on the pedal has just brook see the image i dont know how to put it back there is any way to just make the 2 wire together and let it work forever ? without any problem that affect anything else thank you please help me
  21. I own a y reg 1.8 TDDI focus 90bhp when I brought her she was fine but in need of a service and while I was there as there was no service history I got a new cambelt/timing kit put on then 2 days later my diesel pump failed (bad luck eh) I put on a reconditioned bosh pump with a new brain on it from PB Asher and it was fitted by First Diesel in Croydon (25 yrs experience!) but since it was fitted it no longer had a smooth idle but drove well throughout the rev range. I gave it back to First Diesel as I wasnt happy and they 1) checked the old pump in case it had any metal in it - it was clear 2) take out the injectors and clean them - they did this twice 3) re-checked the job and ensure eberything was as it should be. All to no avail the problem still happens the weired thing is if I put the aircon on the idle smooths out and it sounds fine??? The alternator recently failed as well so I have just fitted another unit but this has not changed the bad idle. Before any of this work was done the car had a full service all filters including the diesel filter was changed the bad idle problem only happened after the new pump was fitted - the new pump was checked by First diesel with no fault codes recorded. They said it might be the injectors or an electrical fault but they are not really sure as the injectors are 2 stage and they are only abl to check the first stage - if it was the injectors surely turning on the aircon would not alter the idle? It reacts exactly to turning the aircon on or off to good/bad idle - has anyone suffered with this problem before it cant be an isolated case surely - any ideas as I dont want to keep chucking money at the car it getting too expensive!!. HELP PLEASE.
  22. Timing Belt And Performance

    Just had the timing belt done, including aux belt, water pump and recharge air con - car 8 years old and 105k miles. Should I notice any difference in the way it drives compared to just before it going in for the job? I have to say I didn't notice anything on the short drive home from the garage. One other thing, the garage ran the car at idle with the bonnet up for a good hour and a half after doing the job - is that normal and just to check that everything is ok? Can't think of any ofther reason and only saw it on the dashcam afterwards so couldn't ask them.
  23. Hi All, I am new to this forum and unfortunately for me it’s not through good circumstances, I purchased a Ford Fiesta Zetec 10 plate from Jennings Ford in May 2012 when it was 2 years old and had only 10,000 miles on the clock. I am just a young girl (early 20’s) and had to buy it on finance (the only debt ive ever had in my life), it was something of a luxury for me and I had to buy it on Fords finance (through Santander) for 4 years. I have never ever purchased a car through a garage before, only second hand through private dealers and have never had any major issues with them. Lucky me….just under 2 years later the car is 10months out of warranty I had been away for 2 nights I came back and tried to drive the car and the power steering had gone off and the steering wheel light and traction control lights were on the dash board. The AA came out and couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it, I am only a petite girl weighing 8 stone and I couldn’t possibly drive the car without power steering. My dads in motor trade and first instinct was to get a friend to put the diagnostic on it, which he did and he advised my dad it was the steering column, to which we rang the Jennings ford garage I purchased it from and he advised us that of a car that age (NOT EVEN 4 YEARS OLD!!!) that its simply not possible and to bring it in for them to check (which has cost me around £100 inc VAT) and sure enough the results were that it is the steering column. Jennings ford want £1,000 to repair it. Can I just ask how is it acceptable to expect someone to pay £1,000 for something which is clearly a mechanical fault??? I brought this up with ford and was very patient with them – I have now been without my car for nearly 3 weeks while it has gone on and basically I have to pay it or I am paying my finance everymonth for NOTHING!! I joined this forum to advise everyone to STAY AWAY FROM FORD FIESTA ZETEC’S 2010 REG AS THEY HAVE A CLEAR MECHANICAL FAULT WHICH FORD ARE UNWILLING TO ACCEPT IS THE MANUFACTURES RESPONSIBILITY. It would have been an entirely different story if I had my 2year old niece and 6 year old nephew in the car and it had went off when I was driving it as I would have clearly lost control of the vehicle and crashed. I am absolutely disgusted with ford and the way I have been treated and how SHODDY this car is!!!!! I wont stop until as many people are aware of this issue!! Funny how this is my rights yet Ford does not care…… The Sale of Goods Act 1979 doesn't say exactly how long goods should last. The general rule is that goods should last for a reasonable time and in reasonable condition. For example, a new car should last for several years in a reasonable condition but you may need to replace some of its parts over time. If goods don't last as long as they should, they probably weren't of satisfactory quality when you bought them. For example, if the sole on a shoe comes away after a few weeks of normal wear, this suggests that it was never of satisfactory quality. – WHO HERE THINKS A STEERING COLUMN SHOULD BREAK BEFORE THE CAR IS EVEN 4 YEARS OLD???? Thoughts and comments are welcomed……….. Thank you for your time
  24. Mk1.5 Stalling After New Icv?

    Hello chaps, Got a problem that I can't get my head around - my 04 1.6 petrol has been hunting for idle a little bit and idles a bit low (worse with electrics being used and worst when engine is warm) which has been seen in countless forum posts and threads. So naturally I assumed this was the idle control valve, which I replaced. After fitting and letting it idle for a bit, all seemed well but upon driving the car, it now stalls whenever you try and roll into 1st gear or let the revs drop to idle for any reason. I thought it may have been a faulty part - was a cheap eBay job after all so I got a replacement and fitted that one, same deal. Also when you first start it up with the new valve, the engine is seriously lugging until you give it some gas. I've put the old one back on for now - anyone can shed any light on this? The symptoms with the new valve seem to be like what happens when the gearbox speed sensor is faulty, but why is it only doing it with the new part? (Also I've had no speedo problems) Finally, I have checked all the vacuum pipes and intake Mani for leaks but there appear to be none. Cheers guys
  25. Mk1.5 Stalling After New Icv?

    Hello chaps, Got a problem that I can't get my head around - my 04 1.6 petrol has been hunting for idle a little bit and idles a bit low (worse with electrics being used and worst when engine is warm) which has been seen in countless forum posts and threads. So naturally I assumed this was the idle control valve, which I replaced. After fitting and letting it idle for a bit, all seemed well but upon driving the car, it now stalls whenever you try and roll into 1st gear or let the revs drop to idle for any reason. I thought it may have been a faulty part - was a cheap eBay job after all so I got a replacement and fitted that one, same deal. Also when you first start it up with the new valve, the engine is seriously lugging until you give it some gas. I've put the old one back on for now - anyone can shed any light on this? The symptoms with the new valve seem to be like what happens when the gearbox speed sensor is faulty, but why is it only doing it with the new part? (Also I've had no speedo problems) Finally, I have checked all the vacuum pipes and intake Mani for leaks but there appear to be none. Cheers guys