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Showing results for tags 'forums/interior+removal'.

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  1. Morning all Been trowling through the net for this, and cant find anything, so apologies if its already been answered/posted. Please feel free to just point me to the thread if so.  Sooo. I got my Mk 2.5 1.6 tcdi Zetec the other week. Looking to do a few bits to improve it. One of which is the interior lights. I always liked having the map readers in my Seat Ibiza, so id like to upgrade to the same. A little disappointed in the trim of this car to be honest, VERY basic. But hey ho.  Anyone done this? easy? looks easy enough to be fair, but any indications on what part to get / good place to look? When i do an ebay search it mainly comes up with just the bulbs and not the unit its self.   Im also not against the idea of installing the courtesy light in the rear too.... its not a major want, but possibly look into it too. This easy to fit also?   Any help appreciated :)  
  2. Hi guys,  new on here so any help i sappreciated. Bought a Focus st and few minor issues Firstly electric mirrors do not work at all Secondly interior lights do not come on when i open the doors (switch is in correct position) Rear interior lights do not come on either at all, even when i switch on manually (fitted new bulbs) 12volt also doesnt work (prob just a fuse though) Thanks for the help  
  3. Hi all, I've got a mk2.5 focus with the standard 1 bulb interior light in, now I was just wondering about changing it to one with map reading lights, I've seen some on eBay and I'm not sure if it's the correct one for my car or not and just wondered if they just plug straight in or will have to rewire, if anyone knows I'd just like a bit of advice 😊 Thanks
  4. Hello all, While I was fitting in the upgrade centre console I discovered that my window heater section had all wires in the other blank spaces - so was wondering if that would mean that the wiring is there for the other options? I ask this as I've just brought that section in silver and that has the button for the front heated screen - it looks like i have the wiring for that, well I'm guessing, so was thinking of getting one installed as that is a feature i massively miss from my fiesta. pictures - this is the part i mean and theres two extra wires/connections in the back of the other two blank cards so i really am hoping someone might provide me with some good news here ha! Also im wanting to take out the standard door card handle parts and replace with the silver higher spec one. I just cant work out how to remove that part?!?! can anyone help with that one too please? Its the surround bit that on the driver side sits over the window and mirror controls. Drivers side Passengers side I know how to take the door cards off etc but I'm not sure how to get these parts free to replace them - i don't want to change to the different door cards as they are a different colour and that will bother me - ha! its bad enough the centre console is a different colour but i can live with that cause of the added aux it adds. cheers in advance anyone
  5. Hi, Looking to remove my rear bumper and struggling a little. Found loads of info for the Mk2 but none for the facelift! Has anyone removed it from the facelift model and if so please help! :)
  6. Hi all, I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one, Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results. Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item. Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates. http://www.ebay.ie/itm/EGR-valve-blanking-block-plate-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-FORD-VOLVO-1-4-1-6-HDI-TDCi-DDiS-/170912771190 This guide is now available to download in pdf format making it eaier to print or share, See link to download: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/62546-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine-pdf/ Tools Required: 16mm Socket 5/16 Socket 8mm Socket 13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted) T30 Torx screw driver T20 Torx screw driver Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how, But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best. . http://m.youtube.com/?reload=9&rdm=ticq739n#/index?&desktop_uri=%2F Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel. Once unclipped; Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car. Next step is to remove the panel beneath also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel. Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car. When screws are removed from the panel; Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear: when removed: Store in a safe place until replacing on the car Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine, Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?" Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block. This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!! This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler, Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber. Now to fit the EGR blanking plate; You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts. Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler" And The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block, This is a case of trial pulling Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate. See in the image below this text: The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange, I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate, So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate, This is best for a good seal. Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine In to the left. Very easy, Just hook on to the top bolt And Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself. Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve, Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate. Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up Followed by the nut on the egr cooler. Here is the blanking plate fitted: Now to replace the panels Ensure the seals are free from dirt Also check the top panel under the windscreen, It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal. .. All back togeather You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range, Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little) Engine idle is quieter Exhaust smoke doesn't exist Your induction system now takes in clean air only No carbon in your induction Less engine oil contamination All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting, Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated. Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though. Well worth every penny and more! By far the best modification on the car to date. Diesel Engines with an active or once active EGR Valve suffer heavily from carbon deposits contaminating the engine oil, These carbon deposits operate much like cholesterol in the human body gathering in the arteries of the heart; These carbon deposits mix with the oil and turn to sludge which slowly gathers in the turbo oil feed pipe, Eventually leading to oil starvation in the turbo causing instant turbo failure. I've used Wynn's engine flush before and once recommended it, however wynn's formula is a bit too abrasive which strips everything from the engine internals leading to risk of scribing and minute cavitations the product leaves nothing behind only your next fill of oil to protect internals. The best product on the market to flush out the carbon and other harmful deposits from your engine is from a company called Xado, They manufacture an organic based engine flush product which also has some revitalizant: Forms an anti-wear coating on friction parts immediately during oil system flushing Creates reserve of anti-wear protection properties, prevents possible defects on friction surfaces during further engine operation. Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10 This bottle gets poured in to the existing engine oil when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature. You can then drive for a distance up to 20km/15miles prior to draining the oil. This makes Total Flush from Xado an ideal product for those of us whom don't carry out oil changes ourselves, Simply pour the bottle in to the engine prior to leaving your car in to the garage for a service gives great peace of mind and protection. I've used this product a few times now myself on my 1.6TDCi engine, I've noticed the engine idles quieter and drives smoother its definitely worth purchasing as part of the routine service on your vehicle.
  7. All, I'm a newbie on the forum and have changed my interior LEDs to blue to match my candy blue Fiesta S. Just looking for a guide to whip out the centre cupholders and change the LEDs to blue. Any suggestions? Or anyone know of a guide to do it? Ta thanks in advance! CJ
  8. GT500 interior

    From the album Work 3SixtyWraps

  9. Hi everyone I've just bought a 2011 focus 1.6 Zetec with12.000 miles on very pleased with the car but there is a few marks on the centre console and the buttons on the radio/sat nav are crinkly, please see attached photos. Just wondered if anyone has had this problem and where can I get centre console plastics, and finally is it possible to replace just the buttons on the radio ??
  10. Hi guys hoping one of you may be able to help me. I've read a few threads on here about problems with interior lights stopping working for no apparent reason but none of them seem to have the solution on them. So today all my interior lights have stopped working. They were fine this morning but tonight nothing. No boot light, no rear interior light, no front interior light no map lights. Strange. So obviously first thought is "ahh the fuse has gone." Get out the handbook, guess what, you got it no fuse is listed for interior lights? Only one that remotely could be is fuse 1 which includes a dome light? whatever that is but also controls the ignition and heated windscreen which both work fine so can't be that one. Some threads mention that there is no fuse for this circuit which is a little odd. Of course it's pitch black as well so I can't easily start checking every damn fuse in the fuse box to try identify the little blighter so I'm hoping someone knows? If there genuinely isn't a fuse how the hell do you get them to work again or am I destined to pay several pounds to my dealer to get such a simple problem fixed. Also I've realised my offside headlight has stopped working tonight as well. Can't be a coincidence can it? There's no fuse for them listed other than the full sides exterior lights and the DRL and rear light work fine. Could just be the bulb but I don't believe in coincidences so any help will be appreciated. Frustrated fez owner!!!!!!
  11. Hi guys, I'm looking at removing my grills on my 2013 focus to spray them, I know how to remove my lower ones but I'm just a bit stuck on removing the upper (the one with the badge on). Just wondering if anyone has ever done this before and could help?? Cheers
  12. Interior

    From the album My little Ford

    Leather seats...mmmm....
  13. right I picked up my red edition last week and have brought some heko wind deflectors! I do want to put them on the car but have yet to do so, mainly because when I come to get a new car I will remove them, so Im asking if anyone knows how hard they are to remove and will they damage the window seal when you do remove them? Don't want to put them on and then struggle to get them off when the time comes
  14. Hello chaps, There are two little mods I want to do to my car, the first is a HID conversion, and the second is to hardwire some ambient lighting into the map light for the front footwells and maybe the centre console. I was hoping some of you could give me some advice and/or links to a reliable HID conversion kit (H7 only) and to a good, red, ambient lighting products. Any forum guides that come to mind regarding these two mods would be great too! Thanks in advance!
  15. Hi, New to the fiesta hype. started with a few little mods, deflectors,spoiler,miltek exhaust etc etc. purchased a 's' badge for the front radiator badge grille. i can see its held on by 3 clips at the top which are easy to remove. but the bottom 2 I'm struggling with. can anyone help. they are attached to the bumper. Thanks sam.
  16. Mk7 Map Light Trouble

    Hello everyone, I'm hoping for a little help regarding my interior map light. When I bought the car there was no problem, when the door was opened or the car turned on the auto light came on perfectly. However, I then changed the bulb to a same fitment, different colour bulb. That's where the problem began: When it's 'off' - on the left side - it's off. When it's on 'auto' - in the middle - it's constantly on. When it's 'on' - on the right side - it's off. I now have no light when it's needed and when I leave the light on (middle/constant) and lock the car it stays on permanently. I honestly have no idea what to do so any help or advice would be gladly appreciated! Thanks, David
  17. image

    From the album My fiesta

  18. Rust Behind Glovebox

    Hi there, I took out the glovebox earlier to replace a fuse, only to be greeted by powdery rust along the metal beam behind it as per this photo I stole from google images: Given other cars show rust there, should I be concerned? Is it a common problem I can fix? Knee-jerk I figured I'd hammerite it over the weekend, but there's no pitting, just dusty rusty powder. Edit: 06 MK3 Ghia
  19. Footwell Lights?

    may be a stupid question, but how do i get the bulb out of the footwell lights on a mk7.5 fiesta titanium? Easy enough to twist them out of the holders but how do i actually get the bulb out? Want to change them, cheers for any help
  20. I rather stupidly tried to remove the radio using a coat hanger rather than waiting for the actual keys. Part of the coat hanger has now broken and is stuck inside one of the holes. What do I do?
  21. Hi Sorry if this has been answered before, new to the site and couldn’t see it anywhere. As you can tell from the title I’ve got an issue which is really bugging me. Thinking it was the door contact on my driver’s side I purchased another contact (or whatever it’s called) and tried replacing it, which did not resolve the issue. I then tried it on all the other doors but still no joy. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be, because its absolutely doing my nut in. Cheers
  22. Hi I am new to this group I hope someone can help! I have a ford fiesta 2006 and Im ashamed to say in the past it has taken some neglect. This is my current stereo. I am wanting to replace the horrible old glue parts ? It is also on the side OF the stereo surround by the passenger side I am not very good at cars so I am wanting a inexpensive way just to give my car a bit of love and a new lease of life! can any one help me please? Kitty
  23. Hi, I would like to know what is required to remove the airbag from the steering wheel on the mk2 ka? I need to fit a new indicator stalk. Help would be much appreciated.
  24. Hi all, I trusted the wife to take my trusty Focus to have a tyre replaced due to a slow puncture. My usual (trusted) garage was too busy so she took it to a local independent "tyre place" they managed to strip the inside of the key so couldn't remove the nut. They swore blind they had the key on straight etc but my wife had her doubts. Anyway they wanted £60 to remove the locking nuts & replace them & the locking key with Ford supplied parts. I called them & asked how much to replace the locking nuts with standard nuts & was told it was still £60 as they had to get them from Ford. I told them to "F*ck off" as standard wheel nuts come in "standard" sizes. On a previous car I removed a locking nut using the methods shown on youtube e.g. slightly undersized socket, bash it on & away you go. This option does seem to be viable for my Focus as the locking nut appears to have a collar round it, I also can't get a standard socket over it due to there only being a tiny gap between the nut collar & the wheel itself. Has anyone successfully managed to remove one of these type successfully? If so how? (Do I need to chisel off the collar & I'll then have room/access to the nut itself) I though it best to ask for advice before taking a 4lb lump hammer & a cold chisel to it, lol) I've attached a couple of pictures to try & show it a little better. One is a fleabay pic of the same type of locking nut & the other is a pic of my issue with a lack of clearance/room between the collar & the wheel itself All sensible suggestions are welcome! :D