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Showing results for tags 'forums/making+money'.

Found 7 results

  1. How Much Is My Car Worth?

    Hi guys was just wondering about some opinions on what my car is worth. It's a 54 Plate Ford Fiesta Zetec 1.4 litre with only 80K on the clock. more details below MOT Till March 2016 Lowered with red springs Sony after market stereo set up with Bluetooth connection (Microphone installed in car to take hand free calls) V05 Present Recent tyre change New clutch timing belt and water pump have both been done new spark plugs ​Value?
  2. 1) Drive car up ramps ( I made ramps using 4 X 13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each ). Disconnect battery negative connector. Jack up right hand side front of car off the ramp and support with axle stand. Remove front wheel and splash shield, 3 screws. ( Photo 1 ). 2) Remove nut from top of drop link using allen key and spanner. ( Photo 2 ). 3) Lever drop link downwards to easily push out the bolt attached to drop link. ( Photo 3 ). 4) Move drop link to one side so that there is a space to get alternator out. ( Photo 4 ). 5) Remove cooling cover on back of alternator 4 nuts ( 8mm spanner ) and remove 2 wiring connectors. The square connector looks difficult to remove but just press tab with sharpened bent strip of metal and pull plug off ( do not pull on wires ) ( Photos 5 & 6 ). 6) Make tool to release spring tensioner pressure from belt. Mine needed 12mm square X 20mm long bar of metal welded to 22 inch long 6mm strip of metal. Other Mondeos could need a hexagon shaped tool, not square. This tool fits square hole or hexagon shaped hole behind tensioner pulley. Pull to the left to remove pressure on the belt and lift the slack belt off alternator pulley( Photos 7, 8 and 9 ). If you don't have a welder a 12mm square X 20mm bar of metal and an adjustable spanner with tube extension could do it but will probably slip off under pressure. 7) Remove top bolt from alternator ( this bolt also supports wiring harness ). Then from under car remove the other 2 nuts. This leaves 2 long studs that must be removed using E8 TORX socket or pliers but protect the threads. These studs are not very tight. There is now a clear space to lower the alternator. With these 2 studs removed it is also very easy to position the new belt.You will see this when refitting the belt. I purchased a set of TORX sockets from Amazon ( Silverline 675072 14 piece only £8.80 ) very useful for other jobs on the car. 8) Turn alternator so that widest part is horizontal and wiggle it through hole under wheel arch ( photo 10 ). I then also removed complete spring tensioner, another 3 bolts, to inspect it. ( nothing wrong with mine ). This has to be removed if you also want to change the belt. When refitting the spring tensioner and belt ONLY FIT ONE of the TOP 2 bolts loosely ( the outside bolt ) of the spring tensioner then its easy to get the new belt round the spring tensioner pulley as you can move the tensioner outwards to give a 10mm clearance between the engine block and pulley and just loop the belt round the lower bracket of the spring tensioner to get in correct position. Note: this is the reason the 2 studs must be out because if they were screwed in you would not get any 10mm movement to get the belt round the pulley and lower bracket. Now you can go ahead and screw the studs back in while holding the alternator in place plus the lower bracket of the spring tensioner. I forgot to position the lower bracket of the spring tensioner onto the 2 studs. Note how long the threads are on the studs without the spring tensioner bracket on. Make sure you fit the studs complete with alternator and spring tensioner bracket. Also make sure the lower bracket is not upside down, photo 12 is correct way round. ( photos 11 & 12 ). I found it easier to fit the belt on the alternator pulley last when using the spring tensioner release tool.To save your fingers get a piece of wood 60mm X 15mm X 2 foot long, round off one end to the shape of the alternator pulley ( thats 60mm diameter ). Hold the spring to max release pressure using the release tool so you can easily tap the belt onto the alternator pulley from the top of the engine using a rubber hammer on the piece of wood. NOTE: Your release tool must go FULLY into the square or hexagon hole behind the spring pulley. I have noticed that a new spring tensioner had the pulley bolt 4mm too long which only allowed the release tool to go half way in so when applying heavy pressure the aluminium casting breaks around the square hole. So check all new brackets and cut the pulley bolt flush with bottom of hole if too long. My car is an automatic and the crankshaft pulley was in good condition although rusty. Just for the record if you get another car, I consider the 5 speed tiptronic automatic gearboxes on Ford cars to be brilliant, I have had my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Est Auto 2004 since new and this gearbox has not given any problems at all. No clutch or flywheel repairs on my car. Its done 142,000 miles on original battery, alternator and serpentine belt. I am only changing the belt today because it should be done at 50,000 miles but there was still no sign of wear. Hope these photos and explaination make it easy for you to do this job. Any problems just ask. Good Luck Dave
  3. Hi There!

    Hi all, I am currently driving in a 1.3 Fiesta Finesse which I have had for just over a year and I'm just looking for some advice on things to do to my fiesta to make look a bit cooler and general up keeping of my wee ford. Thanks for reading!
  4. Towing a 1250kg caravan behind a 1346kg Hyundai i30 to the south of France earlier this summer convinced me by the time I'd even left the outskirts of Calais that 113 tiny little Korean horses just weren't enough. The speed limit for towing a 'van sur le Continong is a reasonable 130 kph or 85mph in real money, but the i30 imposed its own speed limit of 62mph on a good day so by the time we'd reached the Dordogne a week later the decision was taken. Now I am a great believer in learning from other peoples' real life experiences so on our return from France I spent a long time researching the reviews on what is termed 'family' or Class C sized cars and the general consensus is that the Mondeo bested everything else by a country mile. The problem is that I retired in January and my rather meagre pension arrangements had not planned for a new car for at least another five years - learning to live on a fixed (small) income is another hard lesson in this rich and exciting life. As well as a strong, heavy car with plenty of grunt to pull my caravan, another important factor in my buying decision is that this would have to be a 10-year car, so buying used was really not an option as one doesn't know how those first 20,000 miles have been covered by the previous owner. And then I came across Ford Direct. Five-down on the left side of the Ford UK Home page is a little menu item which opens up with this and from there you reach the Holy Grail, a brand new Ford at used car price. There are basically three categories of vehicles handled by Ford Direct: ex-Motability which are 2-3 years old and can have 20,000+ miles on the clock, Ford's own employee company cars which are generally under a year old with around 7,000 recorded miles and lastly the type of vehicle in which I was interested, namely pre-registered and technically classed as used but in reality brand new. The reason all manufacturers pre-register cars is to try to gain market share in the all-important fleet sales league tables. Since introduction, the Vauxhall Insignia has consistently outsold the Mondeo, which only goes to prove fleet buyers have absolutely no idea about motor cars because they would only have to read AutoExpress, Honest John, What Car? etc to learn quite how bad the Vauxhall really is! When you have decided on the engine, trim level, colour and price you want to pay (not necessarily connected as we will discuss later) the search begins in earnest – because wherever you might live, even if your postcode is from the dark side of the moon, the vehicle locator will tell you that your choice of car is in Preston, or Brighton or even Aberdeen but in reality it isn't there at all its in a field just outside Gillingham! Although you can order a car from Ford Direct for delivery to your very own front door, what Ford is trying to do is to send you to a Dealer and that is indeed the best option as we shall see later. The other problem with the vehicle locator is that within an engine type and size - I wanted a 2.0 TDCi - it doesn’t indicate power variants. For towing I had decided on the 163PS which has considerably more torque than the 140PS . . . and its faster! So, initial research completed my wife and I went to the local Ford Main Dealer to try out a Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 163, except we had to make do with the 140 as 163's are rarer than dogs which say more than just 'sausages'. As it happens, the final decision to invest in a new car was made by my bank as a 3.24% ISA had matured a few weeks previously and the thieving so-and-so's offered a paltry 0.9% to roll it over. The next hurdle to be overcome in the Ford Direct version of Monopoly was that you don't necessarily get to own the car of first choice, even if you throw a double six and its showing on the website as being available. The Dealer version of the Ford Direct website is rather different from what us punters get, I can tell you. Remember the bit above when I said that the choice of trim, colour, engine etc had no real connection to the final price? Well my friendly Ford Main Dealer - and they genuinely were very professional, very friendly and very helpful without applying any pressure – were showing a choice of seven Mondeo Titanium 2.0 TDCi's with the 163PS engine on the Ford Direct screen when we arrived that morning, all with 25 recorded miles but at a range of prices from £16,998 all the way to £17,998. How does that work? its just one of life's mysteries! Anyway, the choice of colours was black, dark silver, light (moondust) silver, moondust silver, moondust silver etc etc. We didn't want black, especially with 'privacy glass' at the back it looks too much like those Co-Op cars which take the rellies up to the Crem although I can see it might appeal to some. We went outside to look at a 140 Titanium in the dark (metallic grey, really) silver which we fancied. Choice made, back inside to the Sales Manager to complete the deal . . . . . but in the five minutes we were looking at the colour of our choice, another Dealer had pressed the Order button and it had disappeared from the screen - so it was moondust silver after all! Now comes the price bit; we desperately wanted that car, but made out all nonch and got up to walk out when offered it at £16,998. Eventually we settled for £16,500 cash for a car whose list price was £22,795! We were quoted a delivery time of 7 to 10 working days, but it actually arrived in 5 and when it came there were two nice surprises – it had option 5 spoke 18” alloys instead of the 10 spoke 17's at no extra cost, and there were just 13 delivery miles on the clock. The Sales Exec was as surprised as we were but the explanation is that Ford build cars with the most popular options in the hope that anything they pre-register will be more attractive and find a buyer quickly and also since the 2013 facelift doesn't offer 18” they wanted to get rid of surplus stock. My car was built in November 2012, registered on 31st. December 2012 and pdi'd by Fords on 13th. January 2013. The other advantage in buying through a Dealer apart from being able to haggle on the price, is that the car gets three pdi's, one by Ford, another one when it arrives at the Dealership and an inspection and certificate from the RAC. With the Ford full 2 year warranty is RAC membership with caravan recovery included which is a big plus, saving £160 on two years RAC Arrival membership. We have now covered 1500 miles and the Mondeo is getting run-in in the old fashioned way – gently! The Ford Direct buying experience well exceeded all my expectations, apart from one niggle and that is the Owners' Manual which is quite appalling, but I'll have more to say on that when I write a review on the car itself in a few months time. Usual disclaimers, I don't work for Fords, nor am I in any way connected with the motor industry, I'm actually a retired photographer. If you are interested in buying a Ford Direct pre-reg vehicle and want more info then do please Message me and I'll be happy to oblige.
  5. C,mon its a no-brainer. If youre on here asking about buying a used mondeo,for gods sake,dont go near one. Mines has a new Gearbox,EGR(theres a grand straight away,& the box was under half price!!! I dont rag mines,in fact it gets treated really well. had been averaging 52mpg overall. But the cons are: It still pulls to the left,& eveything has been renewed nearly. Seemingly the rack control valves are prone to be problematic,but ah hell,i can live with that for now. EGR,injector,PCM issues that are just waiting for ya at ur lowest ebb,to appear lol the only pro i can think of is that theyre fairly comfy to drive.(my 406 was the comfiest car ever). That brings me to todays good news.I was hearing a clacking when engines cold,& thought it was lifters or thereabouts,so I put it into a diesel specialist(guys at the top o his game up here),& foned him wee while ago. "Ah the problem is your injectors,theyve been tested(all four),and ALL four are Kaput".He could try a valve repair,but success rate is average & no telling how long they'd last so no guarantee....OR replace all four injectors at a lovely £700. AAAhhhhh Ford I hate your very name. So anyway Ive decided to replace all four. He did say once its done it'll run spot-on 100%. I have no faith in any car made by Ford whatsoever. Even VW/Audi injectors are better(yes you heard me right,even the PD injectors!). Another specialist said that the Delphi's are absolute rubbish,& ford shouldnt have chosen them in the 1st place. A few regulars wont like this because o me rubbishing the Mondeo,but a hell of a lot o folk will agree with me.I just wouldnt like to see anyone else get lumbered with one o these piles a kak. If someone offers you mondy,dont buy it.If its really cheap,definitely dont buy it lol.Theres dozens of em for sale all with misfires(slight lol),erratic idles,electronic issues,& if the owners dont wanna keep em,it tells you something right there.
  6. Hello all! I have got my mind set on getting the new Focus Titanium (or Titanium X). I know that I am going to be keeping the car long term but I am having trouble deciding if it is worth upgrading for the extra £2,000! Does anyone know of any options included for the Titanium X that would make it worth going for the higher spec? Thanks in advance to any replies. Stuart
  7. If there's anyone in the south Wales area, Preferably near Pontypridd that doesn't mind fitting some Front shocks and springs to my fiesta for a pre declared price by yourself, Please Pop me a text with a quote and I will get back to you. New bottom bolts will be supplied, So all parts are readily available Please pop send PM for number No calls Before 3PM as this is when I finish work. (Until Wednesday 13/6/12, Where no calls After 2PM)