AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/mk+3+mondeo+engine+2.0+litre'.

Found 495 results

  1. Hi there, wonder if anyone can help?  I have a 03 1.6 Streetka that normally runs ok but yesterday started this issue of revs not dropping off when you take your foot off the pedal.  This morning I try it and it runs fine again.  No doubt it will return again when it feels like it!  Likely causes? What to do? Although she normally runs real sweet, she has had the engine light on for a while. The local indy took a look some time ago and suggested it might be one of 2 sensors on the exhaust, but that one is likely to break off when changed and if that happened it might mean replacing the exhaust.  Is it possible to check a sensor?  This morning I have pulled Obd code P0420, which is clearly to do with the exhaust but not sure of the best plan of action?  Could this be something to do with the revving issue or have I now got 2 separate problems to sort. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Jeff
  2. Hi guys, new to this forum, just signed up. I'm having trouble with my new fiesta ST, I picked it up on the 29th of January 2016 - should add it's bought on PCP - And it's got an irregular knocking coming from the engine ( over the tapping of the injectors ) I've already took the car back to the ford dealership that I bought it from and they admitted they could hear it also and they changed the oil from 5w30 to 0w40. This hasn't cured the problem and further more I've learned that this is because there are incorrect machining tolerances in the bottom end of the engine? This information came from ford techs over different forums. They say that ford won't tell you this and they just change the oil. Now I have the car booked back into ford this coming Tuesday (Feb 16th) as I'm not happy with the results. I've contacted ford direct via phone and email, and the ford finance also, this is to cover myself with evidence as they have opened up a case.  The dealership have been nothing but nice to me, for example there aren't any courtesy cars available so the manager is giving me his and paying for all insurance costs.  Although im aware if this is the problem I have then the only solution is an engine swap, or ultimately a car swap. I'd like to know what my chances are or being successful? I've told the dealership if I reject that I'd be more than happy for a swap replacement as they have been spot on with me from day one and I don't want to burn any bridges so to speak. But if it needs done I'll be stamping my feet.  Thanks in advance! 
  3. Hi all, So, I've just recently checked my engine over, no problem there, until I noticed a pipe was hanging down from the engine. So far I've determined it's the cold air intake, that the joint that held the pipe to the front grate (or wherever the intake actually draws from) has broken partially - the piece still slides in to the appropriately shaped gap, but it will not stay in place. It's my belief that a piece of plastic that should keep it connected on the top of the intake-to-pipe assembly (I'm sorry, I don't know if there's a proper name for it) just wore out over time. So, that's the situation. my questions three are these; - I understand a faulty air intake can have an effect on fuel economy and engine performance, would it affect this much if it were left hanging down as it has been? - Given that I have to reattach it and the standard fitting is failing to hold in place properly, would it simply be a case of supergluing it back into place or is there something more appropriate for fixing it? - how long would any such repairs last?   Any help you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Hi guys, can someone throw me a bone here. Following a rather harrowing accident an object hit the front of my bonnet, the catch popped and the wind threw the bonnet back over and into the windscreen. Now the car's been a great runner, but it's worth less than a grand so the £400 excess to have it repaired wasn't economically viable. I've managed to get a replacement bonnet, new hinges and new support rams - all fitted without problems, but the latch mechanism is damaged and unserviceable. However the lock mechanism still works perfectly, so I've bought a new latch, my question is, how do you get the old latch mechanism out? Is it possible to undo the two retaining bolts and either lift out or drop out the old one without having to start butchering the lock? If anyone has changed out this unit and can give me some pointers that would be great. All the searches I've done turn up loads of things about bonnets stuck closed or unable to latch correctly but very little about actually replacing the latch, not the lock.
  5. Engine revving

    I have 2004 Ford Ka, 1.3   engine is revving by itself when idle. engine management is on. engine sounds like its struggling to breath (intermittent)   once I drive the car, it can drive steadily without my foot on the accelerator!!.diagnostics suggested 02 sensor. been advised to put fuel treatment in it the car is getting a little unnerving to drive at times    
  6. A few months back, my 10 reg Focus 1.6Tdci went into turbo overdrive, which I had to stop by stalling it. It was recovered to our local Halfords garage. They said too much oil in engine had bypassed seals and got into turbo with turbo then running on the oil. They dismantled the turbo system and cleaned it all out. Replaced filter etc. They had to fit a new CDPF which cost me an arm and a leg. They instructed me on how to drive it to regen the new CDPF, but that didn't work. They took it to the local Ford dealership who did a forced regen. Having got the car back, I noticed that at low revs in low gears (around 1100 to 1500 rpm in 2nd and 3rd), the engine would hesitate. I lived with this and the car behaved normally otherwise. However, just over a week ago, on the way to work, the alarm sounded and a message came up saying "ENGINE MALFUNCTION". I found that this reset by turning the engine off, but came back after driving again for about 15 or 20 minutes. Before I had chance to take to the Ford dealership, I had an extra fault arise with the little orange engine symbol lighting up. This didn't go away with restarting the engine, so I took it into the dealership. They managed to clear the orange engine light then suggested I took it for a drive to see if it was OK, but after about 20 minutes, the "ENGINE MALFUNCTION" message came up again. I took it back to the dealership for them to investigate. That was Tuesday, it's now Friday and they still haven't come up with an answer.
  7. Ok hi fellow ford owners! so just paid 3000 for a 2004 ford mondeo st220 3litre v6 and am having some issues that need adressing and are quite worrying!! Ok so its only done 85k miles all service history but problems am having are  1. When i turn right i get a loud high pitched squeel. 2. Its quite a moany engine and a little loud when it does in low revs 3. After warm when i stop can hear a very faint knocking noise from engine only happens when still  but works fine hoping its nothing major but any help would be appreciated thanks!! 
  8. Newbie From Dorset !!

    Hi All New member, Just purchased Mondeo 2012 ZBE
  9. Hi All, My epic search for an S-Max continues, have seen some decent examples but all seem a bit overpriced (good popular car I guess) We have seen a 2.0 TDCi 115bhp model on a 10 plate My question is what is the difference between this and a 140bhp model?  Is it the same engine just mapped differently (ie could it be remapped)? Thx In Advance
  10. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would.   TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help?   Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  11. Hi, Some funny symptoms on my 56 plate Mk2 Focus. It's always done this to some extent but seems to have got a lot worse in the past 2 years since the cambelt and the clutch were replaced. * Clicking/rattling sound when under engine load (going up hill or accelerating hard or with a heavy car) * Sound like it's either coming from the engine bay or from near the front of the car around the clutch area * Seems to happen mostly in 3rd and 4th and 5th gears when hitting above 2,000 rpm until about 4,000 when putting on a fair amount of gas. * Occasionally under these conditions get a much louder rhythmical clicking (which the video below shows), but normally is irregular and sounds mechanical/metal/clicking (can't seem to get this to show up on a video, but can hear inside the cabin). It is def not any under-car heat shield rattles (these are all checked and speedbolted) I think it could be the engine pinking, but have one eye on the either the clutch or some other aspect of the engine- is it even possible for the clutch to be clicking without slipping? What do people think - anything similar experienced?
  12. engine system fault

    Hi all   i hope someone can help. i have a Ford C-Max, 2007 reg, 1.6 petrol engine. today the car has come up with a fault "engine system fault", then says "speed limited mode", and a red light is on. can anyone shed any light onto this please? from what I've read elsewhere this problem is quite serious and never seems to go away! need advice and help please.   thanks. 
  13. Morning All, I have a Ford Focus 1.6TDCI 2012, bought April 2015 54k miles on the clock, 66k miles now. Yesterday i had a notification come up on my car which said "Engine Malfunction Service Now" (at this point the engine is vibrating a lot) i press OK and it then tells me "Hill Assist Not Available", what does this mean? i'm guessing the Hill Assist has nothing to do with the Engine Malfunction? Annoyingly my car is due for its Service and MOT with Ford on Friday. Let me know your thoughts? or if you've had this problem before?   Thanks
  14. Hi All, I thought I would try and make this more open to the public as Ford seem to be doing everything they can to not tell customers about this issue. I own a 58 plate (Registered 09) Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI Duratorq, since the car was new it has suffered from 2 issues. Issue 1 - While driving on the motorway the car will have intermittent hesitations when accelerating. This will usually happen then naturally allowing the car to decrease speed by taking your foot off the accelerator then applying it again. This can also happen when just cruising in 5th. Issue 2 - This cannot be replicated however randomly you can get a violent jolt forward with the error displayed on the dash "Engine Malfunction". The car will go into limp mode then when you pull over turn the ignition off, wait a minute and start again will be cleared and free to drive normally again. My car has been into Ford for this issue during its warranty period and after it expired to be told there were error codes relating to a particular injector however they were telling me all 4 needed replacing at £1500. The issue was so intermittent and could go months without it happening I have not yet had them replaced. I cover 350 miles a week commuting and can got weeks/months with no occurrences of this. Ford have never told me about a known issue with the injectors until recently when I took my car to the Ford dealership in Eastleigh, Hampshire. One of their service department told me they were aware of a known issue with a batch of injectors ending in the part number 3. While my car was in for diagnostics they advised all 4 of my injectors ended in 3 and would need replacing at guess what... you got it £1500. I argued that surely if this was a known issue with a bad batch Ford should replace these. They said not and the car is out of warranty so I will have to foot the bill. I asked whether there was any documentation on this however they said no, even their customer services director categorically told me nothing existed after checking with their service desk. I have since found out online and from help from the guys on this forum and other that there is in fact a TSB (technical service bulletin) released by Ford documenting which cars are affected and saying what I had been told about the injectors ending in 3. The TSB is TSB 27/2012 dated 14/05/12 and affects 1.8L Duratorq-TDCi (Lynx) engines between 2008/2009. It affects the Focus, Mondeo, C-Max, Transit connect and Tourneo. The title of the bulletin is "Excessive combustion noise and or hesitation during light load acceleration with the engine at high operating temperature". I don’t believe I can post the bulletin in full due to copyright however I can pm this to anyone interested. The bulletin states that there are PCM calibrations released to try and help the injector nozzle performance however Ford failed to tell me about the TSB or the PCM calibrations once in all the times my car was in for diagnostics. I have raised a complaint with Ford regarding this however they are unwilling to replace the parts at their cost, I have told them I am willing to pay for the labour however I don’t feel I should foot the bill for the parts given they were fitted from brand new faulty. I have so far got them to discount the price from £1500 to £1100 then recently a further 30% off this price. Still not happy as still leaves me with a £6-£700 bill to replace faulty parts they fitted. I would advised contacting Mark Ovende via this email address - movende1@ford.com He is the MD at Ford Motor Company. Mark will not respond however you will get a call back from the Ford Head Office. I was initially told they wouldn’t do anything however after continuous emails and phone called I have got them to discount the total initial quote by around 50%. It appears Ford are doing whatever they can to not tell customers about this issue so they have to pay out a fortune to replace parts that were not fit for purpose. Ford should issue a recall as this affects a lot of cars and is potentially dangerous. The fact they are not even telling customers there is a PCM update which could help is shocking, the go straight for the replacements instead. A free or £95 PCM update or £1500 to replace all 4 injectors....... disgusting. I want to try let as many people know about this as I can so they dont get lied to and forced into spending thousands when a PCM update might fix it. Ford should replace these parts at their cost not the customers regardless of warranty on the car. This whole situation has put me off buying another Ford especially from the dealerships I have dealt with. Regards Allister
  15. Hello all! I'm having an issue with a 2002 Mondeo Ghia X, bought it at the beginning of last year but has created a problem of not always starting, it will always start first time but then if you stop, turn it off and come back within 5 minutes it just doesn't want to start. All of the dashboard lights and other stuff works fine it just doesn't want to tick over from time to time, it's very odd. I think it also has a Clifford alarm fitted, and I'm not sure if that is doing anything to cause the issue. It can be a real bother at times, if you stall at the lights sometimes it has not started at all, so it can be dangerous. It had the starter motor done a few months back so it isn't that.. Any ideas of what this could be? Cheers!
  16. Hi guys I'm new to this forum. In all honesty I've just joined as I've seen this club after searching on Google... I have a 2008 fiesta style with 73000 on the clock. Have recently noticed a loud large knock on the engine. Car was stripped, timing belt etc and was told the knock is coming from the engine itself. Nobody knows what it is or why without doing an engine strip and diagnostic. Was told possibly oil pump, diesel pump or bottom of engine? Please can anybody advise as I don't have a clue about any of this or know what to do. Thanks. Saz
  17. Ford Fiesta Problem!!! Help

    Hellooo, I have a 1.4 diesel ford fiesta, which is 10 years old now. Recently it's started to cut off randomly, it feels as if the engine goes off for a couple seconds and then starts again. The battery light and the engine light comes on when doing this, but only for a second. It tends to do this when in 5th gear at around 50mph-60mph, which is around 2000rpm. The car has been in a garage all week and no fault comes up! Also, every now and again the 'transmission light'? (i think) comes on, (looks like a cog with a ! in) and goes into limp mode, where is makes it impossible to go over 5mph and very jumpy. Once i switch the car off and on again it goes fine. Has anyone had this problem before? Thanks in advance!
  18. Hello I have a Mondeo which is making a whining/whirring sound, not just under acceleration (ie makes the same sound when foot taken off the accelerator), and is more pronounced at low speeds (10-35mph especially) - the sound resembles the noise some cars make when reversing at more than walking pace. It seems to be more a bit noticeable after 15 minutes into a journey. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  19. Hi all, My 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi came up with an engine systems failure message today just coming off of a dual carriageway (70mph) accompanied by a red light next to the trip computer. I think it went into limp mode (severly reduced power, unwiling to rev much), so not good when you live at the top of a hill! Two other times when starting the car it has briefly displayed an error message (once it said "steering assist failure", and yesterday it came up with the same engine systems failure message"). Both times I have restarted the car and it disappeared. The car is a 2006 on an 06 plate, and has currently done 73500 miles. I bought it last may at 65000 miles, and it had a service just before I bought it. As it had just turned 6 years old/65000 miles, I'm presuming the DPF would have been changed then? Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Minnis
  20. Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a new daily and I shortlisted my model range to either a Focus or a Fiesta. Since it is going to be a daily car I want it to be a diesel. The diesel engines I'm opting for are either the 1.4 tdci (DLD 414) or 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Fiesta or the 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Focus. Now I know that these engines are not all done by Ford but in some websites I read that Ford use Peugeot (HDi) engines and in others I read that these engines where produced together with Peugeot. So what I am asking is, is it true that these engines are only done by Peugeot and Ford source the engines? or it is a new engine that Ford designed researched and produced together with Peugeot? Please any sources in your answers are very appreciated since I want to see whether Ford are sourcing PSA engines or developing them with PSA. Thank You :)
  21. Blown Turbo

    At the end of a 200+ mile journey last night and 3 miles from home in our Mondeo Mk3 (2003) I suddenly lost power, then one up one hill too many a grating noise coming from the engine (like going over a cattle grid) then all hell as the engine went out of control with increasing revs and smoke coming from the bonnet as we all bailed out in fear that it was about to explode. The revving continued with the ignition turned off but almost at it's peak of revving suddenly stopped. Luck would have it that a local mechanic was passing at that precise moment - he got us home and the car now sits in his garage waiting for inspection. He was able to offer 'blown turbo seals' as an on-the-spot diagnosis and said that 9 times out of 10 that meant a new engine or the end of the car. I'm hoping then, while I await his full and proper diagnosis in the sober light of day, that someone might be able to give some hope to cling to. A fuller explanation of what might have just happened to my car... should we actually be just thankful that my wife, two boys, golden retriever and I are still alive... and if it is as common and unpredictable as the friendly mechanic was suggesting will I be able to drive a turbo powered car ever again?... Frightening, still shaken, everything that was in the car now stinks of burned oil and I have little idea what just happened. Any advice and positivity would be much appreciated at this time.
  22. Hey Guys, Hope someone can help and advice. I am driving a Ford Mondeo Titanium X Sport 61plate (build 2012) and it has the standard Sony Dab stereo installed as picture attached. However I want to change it to the sat Nav version. As attached. Would that be possible? Also can you confirm the latest sat nav from Ford can be installed as well. The new one has the parking buttons at the bottom and my ones at the top. The layout is different too. Please help. Been looking to change for a while.
  23. Help

    Tight so basically, recently when I change gear slowly and have a little bit of gas on, there's a really loud squeaking/screeching sound from what sounds like my clutch. Does anyone know what this is or if it's a bad thing? Thanks
  24. Help

    Tight so basically, recently when I change gear slowly and have a little bit of gas on, there's a really loud squeaking/screeching sound from what sounds like my clutch. Does anyone know what this is or if it's a bad thing? Thanks
  25. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete