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Showing results for tags 'forums/mondeo+loss+of+power.'.

Found 350 results

  1. Hi guys, can someone throw me a bone here. Following a rather harrowing accident an object hit the front of my bonnet, the catch popped and the wind threw the bonnet back over and into the windscreen. Now the car's been a great runner, but it's worth less than a grand so the £400 excess to have it repaired wasn't economically viable. I've managed to get a replacement bonnet, new hinges and new support rams - all fitted without problems, but the latch mechanism is damaged and unserviceable. However the lock mechanism still works perfectly, so I've bought a new latch, my question is, how do you get the old latch mechanism out? Is it possible to undo the two retaining bolts and either lift out or drop out the old one without having to start butchering the lock? If anyone has changed out this unit and can give me some pointers that would be great. All the searches I've done turn up loads of things about bonnets stuck closed or unable to latch correctly but very little about actually replacing the latch, not the lock.
  2. Ok hi fellow ford owners! so just paid 3000 for a 2004 ford mondeo st220 3litre v6 and am having some issues that need adressing and are quite worrying!! Ok so its only done 85k miles all service history but problems am having are  1. When i turn right i get a loud high pitched squeel. 2. Its quite a moany engine and a little loud when it does in low revs 3. After warm when i stop can hear a very faint knocking noise from engine only happens when still  but works fine hoping its nothing major but any help would be appreciated thanks!! 
  3. Newbie From Dorset !!

    Hi All New member, Just purchased Mondeo 2012 ZBE
  4. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would.   TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help?   Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  5. Hi guys,  I'm basically looking to convert my windows from manual to electric on my Ford Fiesta 2003.  I've recently purchased the car only because the mileage is very low and thought it can last me a while whilst I save up for an upgrade.  I've seen some universal kits and even tutorials on how to fit this. The only issue I have is fitting it on is easy, however how would I be able to actually power them up?  Would it be easier just to buy new doors/cards? Then again the wiring is an issue, can a garage just connect them up?  I would leave it, however it's something I'd like to definitely invest some money (not enough to buy a car) and time in. 
  6. Hi guys just wanted to introduce my self as I'm new to the forum and also very excited to show you what I'll be doing to my fiesta over the next few months.... #noturbo #nofun
  7. Really hoping someone can help. My alternator died leaving me by side of road when battery gave up last of juice. After £500 to replace (is it just me or have I been gouged?), I have got it back find it seems to be stuck in limp mode, with a max.65-69mph and poor acceleration and seems to be smoking a lot (was not smoking noticeably at before new alternator).   anyone know what is going on and how to get it sorted?
  8. No power to radio

    Hi, looking for some help on the off chance someone can provide some advice. I've got a ford focus 1.6 2009. I've had problems with the stereo. The led remained on and continued to drain the battery. I brought it to someone a year or so ago, he couldn't find the problem, so it was just left. I've now got a new stereo and whilst installing it I discovered there was no power running to the stereo. Any advice?? 
  9. Hi All, I thought I would try and make this more open to the public as Ford seem to be doing everything they can to not tell customers about this issue. I own a 58 plate (Registered 09) Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI Duratorq, since the car was new it has suffered from 2 issues. Issue 1 - While driving on the motorway the car will have intermittent hesitations when accelerating. This will usually happen then naturally allowing the car to decrease speed by taking your foot off the accelerator then applying it again. This can also happen when just cruising in 5th. Issue 2 - This cannot be replicated however randomly you can get a violent jolt forward with the error displayed on the dash "Engine Malfunction". The car will go into limp mode then when you pull over turn the ignition off, wait a minute and start again will be cleared and free to drive normally again. My car has been into Ford for this issue during its warranty period and after it expired to be told there were error codes relating to a particular injector however they were telling me all 4 needed replacing at £1500. The issue was so intermittent and could go months without it happening I have not yet had them replaced. I cover 350 miles a week commuting and can got weeks/months with no occurrences of this. Ford have never told me about a known issue with the injectors until recently when I took my car to the Ford dealership in Eastleigh, Hampshire. One of their service department told me they were aware of a known issue with a batch of injectors ending in the part number 3. While my car was in for diagnostics they advised all 4 of my injectors ended in 3 and would need replacing at guess what... you got it £1500. I argued that surely if this was a known issue with a bad batch Ford should replace these. They said not and the car is out of warranty so I will have to foot the bill. I asked whether there was any documentation on this however they said no, even their customer services director categorically told me nothing existed after checking with their service desk. I have since found out online and from help from the guys on this forum and other that there is in fact a TSB (technical service bulletin) released by Ford documenting which cars are affected and saying what I had been told about the injectors ending in 3. The TSB is TSB 27/2012 dated 14/05/12 and affects 1.8L Duratorq-TDCi (Lynx) engines between 2008/2009. It affects the Focus, Mondeo, C-Max, Transit connect and Tourneo. The title of the bulletin is "Excessive combustion noise and or hesitation during light load acceleration with the engine at high operating temperature". I don’t believe I can post the bulletin in full due to copyright however I can pm this to anyone interested. The bulletin states that there are PCM calibrations released to try and help the injector nozzle performance however Ford failed to tell me about the TSB or the PCM calibrations once in all the times my car was in for diagnostics. I have raised a complaint with Ford regarding this however they are unwilling to replace the parts at their cost, I have told them I am willing to pay for the labour however I don’t feel I should foot the bill for the parts given they were fitted from brand new faulty. I have so far got them to discount the price from £1500 to £1100 then recently a further 30% off this price. Still not happy as still leaves me with a £6-£700 bill to replace faulty parts they fitted. I would advised contacting Mark Ovende via this email address - movende1@ford.com He is the MD at Ford Motor Company. Mark will not respond however you will get a call back from the Ford Head Office. I was initially told they wouldn’t do anything however after continuous emails and phone called I have got them to discount the total initial quote by around 50%. It appears Ford are doing whatever they can to not tell customers about this issue so they have to pay out a fortune to replace parts that were not fit for purpose. Ford should issue a recall as this affects a lot of cars and is potentially dangerous. The fact they are not even telling customers there is a PCM update which could help is shocking, the go straight for the replacements instead. A free or £95 PCM update or £1500 to replace all 4 injectors....... disgusting. I want to try let as many people know about this as I can so they dont get lied to and forced into spending thousands when a PCM update might fix it. Ford should replace these parts at their cost not the customers regardless of warranty on the car. This whole situation has put me off buying another Ford especially from the dealerships I have dealt with. Regards Allister
  10. Fiesta Mirror Swap

    Can some one help please. Daughter had her drivers 59 plate fiesta electric (non power fold) mirror totalled. Got second hand replacement but its for powerfold. Wiring plug different. Whats the best way to fit?
  11. Hello all! I'm having an issue with a 2002 Mondeo Ghia X, bought it at the beginning of last year but has created a problem of not always starting, it will always start first time but then if you stop, turn it off and come back within 5 minutes it just doesn't want to start. All of the dashboard lights and other stuff works fine it just doesn't want to tick over from time to time, it's very odd. I think it also has a Clifford alarm fitted, and I'm not sure if that is doing anything to cause the issue. It can be a real bother at times, if you stall at the lights sometimes it has not started at all, so it can be dangerous. It had the starter motor done a few months back so it isn't that.. Any ideas of what this could be? Cheers!
  12. Hello I have a Mondeo which is making a whining/whirring sound, not just under acceleration (ie makes the same sound when foot taken off the accelerator), and is more pronounced at low speeds (10-35mph especially) - the sound resembles the noise some cars make when reversing at more than walking pace. It seems to be more a bit noticeable after 15 minutes into a journey. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  13. Hi all, My 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi came up with an engine systems failure message today just coming off of a dual carriageway (70mph) accompanied by a red light next to the trip computer. I think it went into limp mode (severly reduced power, unwiling to rev much), so not good when you live at the top of a hill! Two other times when starting the car it has briefly displayed an error message (once it said "steering assist failure", and yesterday it came up with the same engine systems failure message"). Both times I have restarted the car and it disappeared. The car is a 2006 on an 06 plate, and has currently done 73500 miles. I bought it last may at 65000 miles, and it had a service just before I bought it. As it had just turned 6 years old/65000 miles, I'm presuming the DPF would have been changed then? Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Minnis
  14. Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a new daily and I shortlisted my model range to either a Focus or a Fiesta. Since it is going to be a daily car I want it to be a diesel. The diesel engines I'm opting for are either the 1.4 tdci (DLD 414) or 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Fiesta or the 1.6 tdci (DLD 416) for the Focus. Now I know that these engines are not all done by Ford but in some websites I read that Ford use Peugeot (HDi) engines and in others I read that these engines where produced together with Peugeot. So what I am asking is, is it true that these engines are only done by Peugeot and Ford source the engines? or it is a new engine that Ford designed researched and produced together with Peugeot? Please any sources in your answers are very appreciated since I want to see whether Ford are sourcing PSA engines or developing them with PSA. Thank You :)
  15. Blown Turbo

    At the end of a 200+ mile journey last night and 3 miles from home in our Mondeo Mk3 (2003) I suddenly lost power, then one up one hill too many a grating noise coming from the engine (like going over a cattle grid) then all hell as the engine went out of control with increasing revs and smoke coming from the bonnet as we all bailed out in fear that it was about to explode. The revving continued with the ignition turned off but almost at it's peak of revving suddenly stopped. Luck would have it that a local mechanic was passing at that precise moment - he got us home and the car now sits in his garage waiting for inspection. He was able to offer 'blown turbo seals' as an on-the-spot diagnosis and said that 9 times out of 10 that meant a new engine or the end of the car. I'm hoping then, while I await his full and proper diagnosis in the sober light of day, that someone might be able to give some hope to cling to. A fuller explanation of what might have just happened to my car... should we actually be just thankful that my wife, two boys, golden retriever and I are still alive... and if it is as common and unpredictable as the friendly mechanic was suggesting will I be able to drive a turbo powered car ever again?... Frightening, still shaken, everything that was in the car now stinks of burned oil and I have little idea what just happened. Any advice and positivity would be much appreciated at this time.
  16. Hey Guys, Hope someone can help and advice. I am driving a Ford Mondeo Titanium X Sport 61plate (build 2012) and it has the standard Sony Dab stereo installed as picture attached. However I want to change it to the sat Nav version. As attached. Would that be possible? Also can you confirm the latest sat nav from Ford can be installed as well. The new one has the parking buttons at the bottom and my ones at the top. The layout is different too. Please help. Been looking to change for a while.
  17. Hi again, As many of you may know, I waited 4 months for my beloved 2013 Fiesta Powershift Titanium X to be built, and was finally delivered on 19th July 2013. About 2 months after, I started to notice a grinding/rattle noise whenever the car changed gear at low speed. And started to make the car judder when pulling away. (Which I assumed was down to tyres needing to be inflated, but turns out I was very wrong) I know you can always hear SOME noise from an auto and this one is a dual clutch so I figured it was just down to that, so I ignored it. Over the winter however, it has got much much MUCH worse, and I took it into Benfield Ford. Not once, but 3 times. Got fobbed off with "...just needed a software update..." Didn't make a difference, and just when I was at the brink of just ignoring the noise and the juddering and struggling to change gear, I went to Oxford (300 miles from my home in North Yorkshire) and it got so bad that it was making the noise constantly. To cut a long story short, RAC put me in a Premier Inn for the night, RAC bloke comes out in morning and takes it for a spin - it made a horrific scraping noise (to which he said "Well blow me down.....). He followed me half way home and then we met in service station and told me I could attempt to drive it home as he thought it would most likely be safe (but to pull over and call them back if need be) or he could recover me home. I chose to try drive it home, which I did do. Then once I was back I took it into Ford and this time I DEMANDED the HEAD of the service department comes out with me for a drive until it made the noise...... Not a sound for 20 minutes (though plenty of juddering and struggling to change from 1st to 3rd), and at this point I'm practically BEGGING the car to make the noise! But nothing.....until right when we're pulling back into Benfield, when she let's loose "Grrrrrriiinndddd.....and the service manager's face goes pale. He knew there was something VERY seriously wrong with that gearbox.... That was 3 weeks ago... I've been given the most horrific Peugeot 308 hire car (I know beggars can't be choosers, but this thing is the epitome of crap french build quality -or lack of- and it point blank refuses to reverse) and my Fiesta is STILL parked in exactly the same space at Benfield that she has done for 3 weeks. Apparently they are replacing the 'Clutch Assembly?!?!' (Not entirely sure what that is) I rang up earlier to find out if there was any update and got told the EXACT same thing I was told this time last week... "We've got all your parts, we're just waiting for some sealant. Could be a few days, could be a few weeks.." - Now, is it me, or is that pretty disgraceful that: A: My brand new car needs repairs so severe that they need 'sealant?' & B: That I'm being made to wait all this time for some sealant that apparently could even be out of production, rendering this whole ordeal to continue for several weeks, if not months from now. Apparently, this is a very common fault with the PowerShift gearbox on all Ford Automatic Models, but more commonly with Fiesta & Focus. So my question is, do any of you, or have any of you had the same problem with an Automatic (Powershift) gearbox??? How long did it take to be solved?? Many thanks, apologies for the long winded rant! Tracey
  18. Engine Cut Out After Starting

    Hi, this is my first posting on here, although I have followed the site for several years for advice. I have a 2006 Ford Focus Sport Tdci purchased on finance 10 months ago. The 3 month warranty has already expired, and I have 26 more payments to make before I own the car outright. For the past 10 months this car has worked fine, with no issues at all, and sailed through the MOT 3 months ago. Yesterday morning I did what I always do. I turned the ignition key to power up the car, without starting the engine. I waited the second or two for the glow plug light to go off, then started the ignition. The engine started immediately. I put the car in reverse, and just as I lifted my foot off the clutch to reverse off my drive the engine cut out. I put the car in neutral and attempted to restart the engine. This took about 5-10 seconds of whirring before the engine kicked in. The car worked fine for my 35 mile journey, and was fine 10 hours later when I returned to my car for my 35 mile journey home. This morning I again did the same thing. The engine cut out again at the same moment. This time it took 4-5 goes to get the engine started again, but on this occasion the dashboard showed some warning lights. The glow plug light came on for a few seconds, as did the engine management light. The power train light stayed on until the engine started. I revved the engine, got a small cloud of light grey smoke from the exhaust and the car started fine. I drove it only half a mile, turned off the engine for 5 minutes the restarted, and it was fine. No warning lights. Any ideas on the problem and expected cost would be appreciated. I'm guessing the garage or the finance company will not take liability.
  19. Evening all! TLDR: My mk3 TDCI is producing an intermittent rattling noise on idling, which disappears when I raise the revs slightly by depressing the throttle. Appears to come from the right-hand side of the car, and seems to be external to the engine. Any theories? The long version: This week I needed (i.e. badly wanted!) a new car to replace my battered 20-year-old Corolla. I ended up with a mk3 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, 115PS, 2006-plate hatchback in green. Great cosmetic condition, 136,000 miles on the clock, with no service history apart from last MOT (March 15), which it passed with a couple of advisories, one of which is the noise I'm asking about here. Okay, so I took a risk, but the car looks great, is much newer and better-equipped than anything else I could have afforded, and cost me just £450! It has a couple of issues, but I figure it's worth spending a bit of money to keep this one running. My theory is that the first owner was a business driver/high miler, as the car is in great condition and the passenger and rear seats have hardly been used. It then seems to have spent about 8 months in the ownership of a young man from a family of traveller types who own horses and buy and sell vehicles - but who don't seem to have done much maintenance or servicing on this car (evidenced by the fact that it needed a thorough cleaning inside and out after purchase, but scrubbed up great!). I was relieved to learn that the mk3 TDCI has a timing chain rather than cambelts. However, it appears that one might still need to check the condition of the timing chain (£200 bill?), and the replacement of the auxiliary belts is due at 125,000 miles (also £200 bill?). As I mentioned in my summary above, there is this metallic rattling noise when idling. It's not there all the time - usually takes several seconds of sitting at traffic lights for it to begin, and it comes and goes. It can be relieved by raising the revs slightly using the accelerator pedal, and also seems to vanish when the clutch pedal is depressed. With the bonnet up, the noise seems to be coming from the area of the auxiliary belts on the right-hand end of the engine. Everything seems to be working; it's just this noise. The car stops and goes just fine and has plenty of oomph. Worth pointing out: the car pulls to the left noticeably, pretty much all the time. This has not been cured by having the wheels aligned or replacing the tyres worn by the misalignment. The only time it has not done this is on a surface with a right-hand camber. The left-hand pull also occurs if I brake sharply (once the car has shed most of its momentum; it then kind of "digs" to the left just before coming to a complete stop, with the steering wheel twisting to the left). Whilst driving I find myself compensating, and at times if feels as if I'm fighting the steering a little. I don't remember having anything like this or noticing heavy power steering on the brand new TDCi estate I hired for a week whilst living in Germany back in 2002, which I put about 1,500 miles on - I was very impressed by that car, and that's one reason why I bought my current Mondeo. So I'm wondering if the rattling is anything to do with the drive to the power steering pump which in turn might contributing to the steering issue. Clearly the car needs an oil and filter change which I will probably do myself. A friend (trained mechanic) drove behind me yesterday and said he saw the odd puff of smoke - not sure how much oil it's consuming but it's in the middle of the dipstick, albeit quite black. Anyway, I'd be happy to clear up the rattling on this thread and investigate the leftward drift separately. PS To avoid wasting time with comments about the risks I've taken, can we please just assume I've done all the self-beatings and sleepless nights about buying a car with no service history from dodgy people - I've got good reasons for not wanting to put any more time or energy into looking for a car, and would just like to know what I might need to do to get this running as sweetly as possible (or indeed if the issue is one I can ignore safely). Over to you! Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
  20. Hi all, Just joined this forum on behalf of my dad who is having a number of issues which we can not seem to solve, so any help here is much appreciated! Dad owns a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X Sport 2.0 Eco Boost Auto with 14k miles on the clock, owned it for about 2 years now. A couple of months ago the car started to play up where the key fob would unlock the car but the wing mirrors wouldn't open out, the push to start button would not start the car but the instrument display would show the Ford logo. AA man came round, disconnected the battery for about 10 mins then the car was ok and started up. Couple of days later same thing happened so dad did what the AA man did and was ok, but then the car wouldn't turn off! It is an Auto so couldn't stall it. Took it to Fords while running and the guys come out and agreed that it wouldn't stop. Eventually the car did turn off after pressing the on/off start button a few times. Left the car with Fords to investigate and they said that there was nothing wrong with it after doing the Vagcom/diagnostic checks etc. Paid about £300 for this so far. They gave the car back to us and it was ok for a day or so until the same thing happened. Ford then flashed the internal computer and updated all the firmware etc and the car was ok. Today (about 2/3 months later) dad went to start his car and nothing, the key fob wouldn't open the car and even using the internal key in the fob would not open the doors! Ford have said they have never seen this before and don't know what to suggest, so we have a car we are unable to get into. Dad has tried both key fobs and tried every possible thing we can think of. Has anyone on the forum experienced this before or have any ideas as to what it could be!? Any help/suggestions are welcome. Thanks,
  21. hiya im a new member as of today, im sorry if this is in the wrong section but i was wondering if anyone has got a cylinder head for the mondeo ive described in the title for sale? 2 inlet valves are bent on cylinder 2 and the head is warped so i cant find any decent excuse to refurb it. \if anyone has one layng around for sale please lt me know Cheers Bradley P.S. iirc the cylinder heads are the same for both 1.8 and 2.0 zetec lumps
  22. Can any one help. I have a 2006 mondeo tdi,130 ps with 210,000 miles on. I start it up and it's in limp mode,5 minutes down the road switch ignition off and on and it's back to full power,been doing this for months now.had the car plugged in and had 2 error codes. P0121 throttle pedal position sensor a. P132b turbo charger/super charger boost control a. I've changed both and still have the same error. Can anyone point me in the right direction. Thanks dave
  23. Repairing Front Bumper

    I have damaged the the lower part of front bumper by hitting a raised kerb. The visible damage is not much but the underside looks a mess. Are there any pictures available showing the various parts of the complete bumper assembly?
  24. Spent £6000 on a ford fiesta zetec s (petrol) that had done 57,000 miles in April of 2015. About a month after I bought the car I discovered a problem. I was driving along in 3rd gear and tried to accelerate, however, when I pressed down on the accelerator there was no response for 1 or 2 seconds, and then suddenly it responded and the car began to accelerate. The problem has continued every since and has become more frequent. No warning lights have ever come on and no diagnostic tool has ever picked up a fault code when I take it to my local ford dealer (who the car is still under warranty with). Every time I take my car to the dealer they are never able to get it to "fault" & no fault codes were ever found hence they said that they can't do any more unless it actually breaks down or shows a warning light. I've had different technicians carry out many different checks on the car, the engine and other potential faulty parts have been cleaned but the problem is still occurring. After the ford dealer were put under pressure by myself to get the problem solved, they replaced the accelerator pedal but this has not fixed the problem. Has anyone had a similar problem with their fiesta? Or know of anyone that has? Any advice/ideas is greatly appreciated as I'm running out of patience with the car and the ford dealer. but they were never able to get it to "fault" & no fault codes were ever found hence they said that they couldn't do any more unless it actually broke down or showed a warning light.
  25. Hi guys, I have a 2001 Mk3 mondeo estate 1.8 Petrol. The drivers door got smashed and the barrel was destroyed and the car was stuck with all the doors locked. A locksmith charged me £120 to get the door open and make a new standard key, but still only the drivers door would open, the rest of the doors remain locked. I found a cheap door on ebay, so I'm hoping after putting that on, the other doors will unlock when I unlock that. The locksmith said that my remote key is ok and communicating with the car, as you can hear the clicking noise from the dash, when I push the buttons and if I hold down the unlock button, all the windows will open. I'm told the central locking module is in the drivers door, so that is obviously damaged aswell. So after putting the new door on, will i need to have the key re-programmed, or should it just work? Thanks