AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/pressure+sensor'.

Found 83 results

  1. Right so I want to change my Air Box to an Air filter on my Mk7.5 Fiesta Black Edition 140 - But I have noticed there is a air sensor attached to the unit if i fit an air filter will this cause me any issues if the sensor isn't plugged in? Cheers Ben_140 
  2. Pressure In Coolant System

    Hi all, I have recently brought a Ford Focus 1.8TDCi Duratorq 2008. When I came to check the coolant level in the system (cold engine) there was no coolant visible in the expansion tank. When removing the expansion tank cap, the system lets out pressure and the coolant floods back into the expansion bottle through the large hose located at the bottom of the tank. Surely when the engine is cold there should be no pressure in the coolant system? Thanks in advance!
  3. Hi All, I have been looking around the internet reading up on the ecoboost engine trying to get an idea what could be possible with the 3 pot beauty. I am just looking to see if any one is planning on doing anything to their engine at all? if so what you will be going for.... Any one have any ideas on what would be a good starting point on finding a bit more grunt from the engine. My friend had a subaru impreza and i remember him fitting a boot control valve to increase his boost pressure, would such things be possible with out ecoboost engine? Any one with ideas please post :)
  4. Good afternoon, I'm hoping that people here will be able to help me identify some tubes and explain their purpose and whether I can replace them myself. Car is a Ford Focus, Zetec Climate TDCI, 1.8L Diesel, Estate. Please refer to attached picture. Tube A - Cracked through. Thin tube from Turbocharger to sensor? Makes noise similar to blowing through a straw when turbo is running. Does anyone know how I can find a part number, and if it's something I can replace myself (i.e. is it just a push fit or is it heat-shrunk). Tube B - Possible split on underside. Slightly thicker than tube A, unknown origin, runs parallel to a line saying containing fuel don't replace. Does this also contain fuel? What does it do? How easy is it to replace? Part Number? Any help/advice anyone can give about these parts, or guidance on how to find unknown parts that I haven't identified from my Haynes Manual would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  5. '57 plate 1.6 petrol Mondeo Mk 4 (owned fro new, no other problems, serviced, low mileage for year) refuelled 69 litres from nearly empty which then refused to start at the Sainsubury's petrol station. Just lurched 1 metre forward and apart from 2 hiccups, nothing. Towed it home and have discovered (by taking fuel line off in engine) that there is no fuel pressure. Engine turns but will not fire. Squirted brake cleaner into air cleaner and whilst squirting it would fire, suggesting electrics and engine ok. Central fuse box F22 20amp fuse on main board ok although it looked as if it had been hot as the edges of the legs were blackened. Green flag attended and their generic OBD scanner apparently showed no fault codes. So some help please.... 1/ Is there an inertia cut out on this model and, if so, where is it? 2/ What other devices can stop the pump from operating and how can I check them? 3/ Is there a complete system diagram anywhere such that I can evaluate the items that may be stopping the pump from running and how the power routes to the pump? 4/ Is the pump only accessible after lowering the tank? 5/ What is the layout on the pump and what can I check? Answers and any other advice very much appreciated.
  6. Temperature Gauge Erratic

    Hi My 09 tdci Mondeo MK4 has a strange temperature gauge issue. Sometimes it will appear ok (it never goes past halfway) but most other times not really. Usually it will warm up fairly slowly and only get up to halfway when at speed (60+), slowly dropping down to 1/4 or just below when encountering towns/traffic and driving at a lower speed, but occasionally it does spend most of the journey at halfway, but will never stay there. The car drives without fault apart from this minor issue and both heater and aircon work fine - there seems to be no noticeable effect if I have heat/aircon on or not. It has relatively newish coolant (usually at the right level or thereabouts). Any thoughts? I've had a quick look online and it seems it could be a trial and error job - possibly a faulty sensor/connection, thermostat (less likely) or the instrumnet panel itself. Thanks, semi-baffled.
  7. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete
  8. Hello all, great forum here that I've been reading for a while. We've recently purchased a 2012 Fiesta Edge which we really love, but I am in the process of fitting some parking sensors front and rear into the factory positions. I have no issues with the fitting of the sensors, or with vehicle electrics etc. as I've done this many times - but I want that factory look in our 'new' car. I've ordered the 'Front Parking Switch' and bezel from Ford and it is exactly what I need. I've even managed to work out which pins provide a momentary action to engage the parking sensors but for the life of me am unable to get the backlight or 'on' light to work on the bench out of the car. I'm led to believe the multiplug for this bezel (which can also house the ESP switch and Airbag Off light) is present in all Fiestas. I'm hoping when I take the dash apart tomorrow I will find this plug and plug it in - if anything to get the backlight working. But does anyone have any experience with getting the 'on' LED to work, I'm guessing this would normally activate a Ford Module for the factory sensors, but I still cannot figure out on the bench how it illuminates the LED, even following the PCB tracks under a magnifying glass. If anyone has done this before (I guess not as I did try searching) and can help in any way that would be great! :)
  9. Outside Air Sensor

    I have just bought a new style ford Mondeo and have been pleased overall however the outside air temperature display keeps going to -40c and the climate control then goes to hot. The dealer changed the sensor but after about 2 days the temp dropped to -40 again although did recover after about 15 mins. A 2nd visit and the engineer said it was just re calibrating itself and would settle down. However over the last few days the readings have again become erratic and once it goes to -40, it stays the same irrespective of C of F. Even the salesman hadn't seen this before as it dropped during a visit and I had chance to show him. Eventually the reading comes back to a more normal value. The garage is unaware of any issues with the sensor so before I go back, is anyone else having a similar problem?
  10. Recently whilst going to work in the morning the car sudddenly stuttered and "Engine Malfunction" light came on. I stopped and swithced car off and started car again, no problems whatsoever, however just to be on the safe side rang AA to come and have a look. The chap did an OBD reading and fault code P2290 came on however the car was driving fine. It's been all ok for the past week however last night on my way home, the car had the same problem, however this time, I was overtaking a lorry and it felt as if the car lacked power at 70mph after stopping and starting the engine. This morning everything was fine again. I contacted a garage who told me that it could be the fuel sensor regulator switch made by bosch or it could be EGR, TURBO, FUEL PUMP and to drop the car off to have a look. It seems that when I go above 3000 rpm on the motorway this problem seems to pop up. I nearly got killed last night!!!!! Anyone had anything similar problems? 1.6TDCI 110HP 59 Plate (service at ford garage according to service schedules, all maintenance done etc) Thanks
  11. I'm looking into the following error code on my 1.8 TDCi: P0191-61 - FRP Sensor Range/Performance The code appeared after I changed the glow plugs, which I did as a response to an earlier error (which is now cleared): P0380-68 - Glowplug control circuit I've taken a reading of the Fuel Rail Pressure using FORScan with the car running. I'm getting readings of about 5000 psi (340 bar). I don't have my Haynes manual with me, and Google isn't helping much. What are the expected ranges for pressure at the rail? (These values seem a bit high to me, but then this is the first time I've had to play around with fuel lines.)
  12. I want to post this thread because I recently came to this site as a new member, hoping to have found the answer I was looking for to my own Ford problem, but without success. There were many similar threads and I take my hats off to those Ford owners who made the effort to post some help and advice for others. However, I hope that my specific thread will be of help to those drivers with the same model Ford as mine. I own a 2005/55 plate Ford Focus 1.6 VTC Petrol 2 Door, of which I am extremely proud. Two weeks ago I had her serviced, ...which brings me on to the subsequent issue I had. 3 days after the car was serviced, the Crankshaft Position Sensor failed and my mechanic was not available to do the job due to being on hols. I had been told that it wasn't a big job and to try and do it myself. I turned to this sight for help, but none of the threads applied to the year and model of my Focus. The good news is, the job has now been done....by me, and I want to share with other Focus owners my experience in replacing the sensor. I did buy the Haynes manual to assist me with locating the sensor (I have limited mechanical knowledge), but moreover I want to share with others how I did the job and what issues I had to overcome. Firstly, to do this job you will need a new sensor (obviously), a small torch, a good strong trolley jack, an axel stand (safety first), a socket set and an 8mm socket. However, as I later explain some of the issues I experienced, I would also suggest having a swivel head socket, or a short shaft 8mm spanner. Next, to locate the sensor on this model, jack up the car using the jacking point just below the driver's door, as the sensor is positioned just left of centre at the base of the block, and after putting a suitable axel stand in position lower the car onto the axel stand for stability. I would also leave the trolley jack in place for added safety. From the front of the car, poisition yourself underneath and look for the oil filter. From the oil filter look up to the crank casing (approx 4-5inch upwards) and you will find a blue coloured electrical connector block sitting slightly inwards in the crack case. This is the sensor connection, and you will need to remove the connector block before you attempt to dismantle the sensor from the crankshaft. To disconnect this, on the connector block you will see a very fine spring wire...press this inwards towards the crank case to unlock the block and slip off the connector. With the connector removed you will now be able to clearly see the 8mm bolt head that connects the sensor to the crankshaft. This is where a swivel head socket or a short shaft 8mm spanner may be useful, because as the crankshaft case comes accross the back of the sensor, on this Focus model the crank case bevels outwards, thus limiting the room you have to put the socket with ratchet handle headlong onto the bolt. An extension on the socket head would have helped me, but because this sends the socket handle backwards, the turning of the socket is then limited by the Oil filter. The easisest way would have been with a short shaft 8mm spanner, as this would have slipped neatly onto the bolt, but I didn't have one of these, and the longer handle spanner I had was limited in turning by one of the water hoses running off the base of the engine. If you only have a fixed ratchet handle then you will have to be prepared for alot of short bolt turns because of the limited room to turn it. Once you have loosened the bolt enough, you can get your fingers in and turn it by hand until it is completely out. Now the sensor is free for removel....take hold of it and slide it backwards, out of the Crankshaft and compare it with the new one to double check you have the correct one for replacement. Now you can fit the new one. Carefully slide the sensor into the crankshaft, being careful not to knock or drop it, as this is a 'one time fit' part. As you slide the new sensor into place, be sure to align the bolt head connector up with the thread hole. Use a torch to try and see that it is in line before offering up the connecting bolt. Gently rubbing some fine grease or WD40 onto the connector bolt will help with lubrication. Offer up the connecting bolt and slowly turn it into place by hand as far as you can go. Now revert to finishing off the tightening with the ratchet/spanner, depending on what best suits you. Tighten it up until the socket or spanner won't move without forcing it, but be careful not to over-tighten. Finally, slide the connector block back onto the head of the new sensore and you are done. Jack the car back up off the axel stand, remove the axel stand, and then lower the car back down off the jack. I am hoping to post some photos to this thread as soon as I can find my camera cable to connect to my laptop, but I can honestly say that for a novice mechanic, this job is more fiddly than difficult. I hope this helps someone else, and good luck with any general running repairs that you may have.
  13. Hi i have a 1.4 tdci fiesta titanium Ive recently required this car back from my ex wife obviously shes totally neglected the car. NO 4. injector was leaking on the seal so i decided to remove them and replace them all i took my time in cleaning and hoovering carbon away whilst doing this. so after replacing them the car obviously took some starting, eventually she ran but on doing so I noticed that every time it started the engine the oil pressure light took around 5 seconds to go out not giving me throttle response until build up. I can understand that as a engine safety feature. First time round it would cut out 10 seconds after the oil pressure was there so I decided to look at the heater plugs and low and behold 3 heater elements snapped in the head so took head off and sorted the plug problem and built it back up only to get the same fault excluding the cutting out. In all of this I never ran the pump dry and always hand primed the system first so OK I thought id take it for a test drive round the block " serious lack of power " I thought I was going to burn the clutch out I had to rev it that much to set off at junctions. I'm a very experienced mechanic but been working on hgvs for the past 10 years and a little loose on the new stuff could anyone shed any light on the matter please. Is it worth a couple of hours diag at ford ?
  14. Hi i have a 1.4 tdci fiesta titanium Ive recently required this car back from my ex wife obviously shes totally neglected the car. NO 4. injector was leaking on the seal so i decided to remove them and replace them all i took my time in cleaning and hoovering carbon away whilst doing this. so after replacing them the car obviously took some starting, eventually she ran but on doing so I noticed that every time it started the engine the oil pressure light took around 5 seconds to go out not giving me throttle response until build up. I can understand that as a engine safety feature. First time round it would cut out 10 seconds after the oil pressure was there so I decided to look at the heater plugs and low and behold 3 heater elements snapped in the head so took head off and sorted the plug problem and built it back up only to get the same fault excluding the cutting out. In all of this I never ran the pump dry and always hand primed the system first so OK I thought id take it for a test drive round the block " serious lack of power " I thought I was going to burn the clutch out I had to rev it that much to set off at junctions. I'm a very experienced mechanic but been working on hgvs for the past 10 years and a little loose on the new stuff could anyone shed any light on the matter please. Is it worth a couple of hours diag at ford ?
  15. OK so basically I had a 2.0 TDCi Zetec S a few years back on an 04 plate that had diesel pooling around the injectors. It turned out to be the Leak off pipes/ connectors, we changed the lot to be sure. However when we changed it the car would not start at all! It took about a week of disconnecting and really connecting rando stuff to.get it finally started in limp mode. After that it was fine and the error we were getting of low pressure in the fuel rail went. Now I've just bought a mondeo 2.0 TDCi Zetec again with the same issue if diesel pooling around the injectors. My concern is ill.change the pipes and connectors and my car won't start again! Can anyone she'd some light on why that would happen? Thanks in advance :)
  16. Hi, my ka starts fine. Idle is fine. Seems to drive in limp mode. Code reader returns P0500 Speed sensor. Does anyone know where this is located? Many thanks. Luke.
  17. Help With Component

    Hi I am new to this forum so please bare with me. I have a 2006 ford focus 1,6 TDCI and recently stripped the engine down to repair the damage caused by the common turbo failure. The car is now back together and after several attempts at starting it naturally and by 'easy start' finally started it by towing it in second gear until it started. It now starts normal but has no power what so ever. with my foot to the floor the revs creep up very slowly all injectors are working and there is no misfiring. I have attached a photo of something like a sensor, but it has no cables its attatched to some sort of thin hose. i dont know whether this has anything do to with it, its the only thing not connected to anything in the whole engine bay. thanks in advance thanks in advance
  18. Hi all Apologies for the rather flaky description here but I have noticed a small leak (possibly fuel) from the engine of our circa 2007 Ford Ka. Upon closer inspection there is a lead hanging loose with some kind of electronic switch or sensor on the end. This is dangling just below the bottom of the radiator on the right-hand side of the engine. Crawling underneath the front of the car I can see that this should probably sit in a circular hole near the bottom of the block, facing forward. The hole is threaded, around 3/4" diameter and contains a small yellow, rubber membrane. The switch/sensor has a kind of plastic 'push and twist' moulding on it but I still can't manage to secure it in the hole. For now I have pushed it in but it doesn't feel too solid. Does anyone know what this is (in case I have to ask a garage to sort it) or how it connects. With the car on a ramp it would probably be obvious but as it stands I can only guess. Thanks in advance! Martin
  19. Throttle Cutting Out

    Hey everyone, I have a FORD FOCUS 58 Plate 2.0 TDCI Titanium. For years I had an intermittent problem- the throttle pedal would briefly stop working. This began happening once every 3-6 months so wasn't too much of an issue. It now happens everyday. Been researching this problem for a while. Despite following many similar topics on just this forum nothing has solved it yet. I do lots of motorway driving (approx 200 miles everyday). On each journey the throttle pedal stops responding and the revs drop to idle. Occasionally the pedal becomes responsive again, other times I'll have to pull over to stop/start the engine. This tends to reset it. Occasionally I can sense when it will happen as the car judders when easing off the throttle pedal and is slow when pressure applied. I don't appear to have any DTC Fault codes, and a Ford Dealer found nothing after a diagnostic. I've replaced the pedal with another (second hand) and it still cuts out. I ordered a replacement (second hand) Throttle Position Sensor but another pedal showed up instead. I was told on this year/model the TPS is now in the pedal. It has now got to the stage where I'm just wasting money on guessing the fault. Suggestions have included replacing injectors, instrument cluster, ECU, fuel filter, but no-one has actually diagnosed the fault. Any help/suggestions will be much appreciated!
  20. Can any one give me some advise please?. I recently brought a 2005 1.3 petrol, manual KA. The speedo wasn't working when I brought it and thought it would be an easy fix,,it probably is still an easy fix but me and my mechanic are at a bit of a loss.. Hartwells say that the speed sensor is on the gearbox but there is a factory fitted blanking plate where it should be. My mechanic seems to think that the ABS sensor would be the obvious choice next but Hartwells are saying no it's definely not.. If I buy the ABS sensor and it doesn't do the job they have said I can not return the part. As it cost £110 from them I want to make sure this is the only other option.. any advice welcome.. :D
  21. Hey guys, I'm doing some planning for a little retro-fitting and I need to know how can you call this thing on the front window, around the top of the window and around the rain sensor... Since my front window is in top shape, I'm not very in the mood of changing it to the one with sensor built in, so I'd like to use some sort of wrap, or tint or something like that, to fake the original look of the window with sensor... I found black tint on eBay, which I can use for the center black part of the sensor, but the perforated part seems to be "unsearchable" for me (not being a native english speaker and all)...shops here which install window tints looked at me like I'm crazy when I wanted something like this from them, so I think I'm left with eBay... Can you give me a hint on what I can look for? Thanks ;)
  22. Ford focus help

    From the album Focus engine

    Can anybody help identify this component
  23. I have a problem with my newly bought 2008 Kuga 2.0 TDCI. I have an "engine malfunction" which is the dpf. I am hoping I don`t have to buy a new dpf (expensive). Now the engine won`t run more than about 3800rpm-meaning it doesn`t get warm eough for it to regenerate. I found this as a solution: http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-chemicals/cleaning-and-care-materials/special-chemical-cleaners/dpf-cleaner-400ml Does anyone have any experience with this? And (fixing for dummies); where is the DPF sensor located (for removal and injecting the dpf cleaner)? (pictures/links will be highly appreciated) Sincerley Allan Henriksen
  24. Hello, Any help would be very much appreciated. The car is a 2007 1.6 tdci estate (euro iv). Can anyone check the photo to see whether the magnet sensor which doses the tank with eolys/DPF additive is missing? The filler housing and arm were changed and I'm told there should be a sensor to add eolys every time the car is filled up. I can't see one! Thanks in advance Mark
  25. Just Need A Little Advice

    Hey guys just signed up here as I got my self a MK4 Fiesta 1.6 not to long ago now and im in the process of getting it back to a better running condition!! How ever while giving it a general service I was changing the sparkplugs and noticed between plug 2 and plug 3 there is what looks like a cable going inside the head with a plug attached to it ... but it looks pretty crowded and its managed to dethatched its self from what its was attached to .. so no doubt its going to need replacing however I'm not totally sure what I'm actually looking at as I'm still teaching my self about engines. Could anyone give us a shove in the right direction please and name what it is so I can look for a part please Thanks