AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/rear+wheel+bearing'.

Found 174 results

  1. Mk2.5 to mk2 rear lights

    I am wanting smoked rear lights to my mk2.5 focus, and all the better looking units ive found are apparently for the mk2. Do these fit? They look VERY similar! Thanks
  2. Hello all, I'm trying to order the clips used to attach the front wheel arch liners on 2007 Fiesta. The expanded parts diagram I've found online hasn't been much use, I don't have the old clips for comparison and I see several different size clips being sold as suitable  As best as I can tell, there are 6 fixings per liner. 4 of them have circular holes (green) and 2 are slotted (red) so I'm guessing there are 2 different types of clip needed here? If anyone happens to know the correct clips, I'd be very grateful!
  3. Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone would be able to give me some advice on this product sold by puma speed? http://www.pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Fiesta-ST-150-Stoffler-Rear-Valance-twin-hole_527.jsp Do I need to cut my original rear valance?(The standard one that comes on a 57 plate fiesta zetec s) Was wondering what actually come with this product also, is it a whole new rear valance or is it the fins and the top half that stick on over the existing one?   Any help would be largely apreciated.   Samuel.G.Harris Burgerm4n
  4. hi when i apply full lock i get this jerky movement from the drivers side wheel, also when i brake that same wheel wanders, and when driving sometimes the wheel wanders mostly pulling the car to the right
  5. Hi, Looking to remove my rear bumper and struggling a little. Found loads of info for the Mk2 but none for the facelift! Has anyone removed it from the facelift model and if so please help! :)
  6. Hi Guys I have just had to use my rear fogs since i purchased my car last year on returning from a journey i noticed the lefthand/nearside one was not lit reading on talkford forum it appears there was a change from Mk3 twin rear fogs to Mk3.5 single rear fog, if that is the case, is there any parts i can purchase to bring it back to twin rear fogs, it looks stupid with a red lens cover on thaf side if not working or in use, please advise if anybody has done this conversion and any part numbers used ??, best of the 2016 season to all fellow members huey45
  7. It is interesting how many Fusions have bad water ingress in the rear lights. Mine is a 2009 with water in both, despite sealing the bulbholder and everything else. Looking at Ebay and scrap yards I've found most of them to be the same when you ask or examine on a wet day. Even a 2011 car with water in both lights. Is it a manufacturing problem as a local dealer said he had replaced stacks of them. Nice, as they are £100 each inc fitting or £75 if you do it yourself, and only a 12 months warranty. I have had cars all my life and never any water ingress, only plastic fading on son's 2001 car. The Fusion lights must be badly designed or very cheaply made!
  8. Hi Just wondered if anyone on here has had the same problem. I have a 1999 focus estate, only problem being is the heated rear window is only half working/clearing. Now I only use the car really for fishing and taking the dog out, but as you can imagine, only being able to see half out the rear window can be a bit of a pain. Has anyone had the same problem?....and if so, how did you fix it? Many thanks. Rich
  9. Hi looking for advice which I think I know answer but need confirmation. A friend owner of ford ka 2010 had new tyres fit by mobile guy who informed her one wheel bolt was incorrect. I found some on eBay from 2011 car when they were delivered I received wheel nuts ( which I believe to be mk1 <2008) and later models mk2 >2008 to be bolts. Are my thoughts correct ? Not able to check car as she is at university thanks in advance john
  10. Hi All, Question about my Focus. Came back from holiday after a week away and cold weather at home. Took off handbrake which stuck until I reversed out of the car parking space, but it still feels there is a little more rolling resistance than normal when I drive the car. Main points: -Handbrake disengages completely....not slack when it's down. No hand brake light on either, so that's all fine. -Fuel consumption has gone up by 25% (although I am not doing a weekly 80 miles round trip on a dual carriageway during the winter, only combined city/country driving) -Slight noise coming from rear right wheel but not from others when car is rolling slowly, doesn't sound like the brake though So, I'm thinking the bearing, but how could that have just decided to break while I was away? Car is parked in secure location outside. Any ideas? This weekend I will jack the rear up and compare the rolling resistance of each rear wheel to see what's up and report back. Cheers!
  11. Hi My 2 rear windows have started rattling in the last few months. It started off on one side and now its on the other as well. If you put the window down slightly, you hear it every time you go over a slight bump. If the windows are shut, you don't hear it, but you do when you close the doors. Its with the Ford dealership at the moment and they reckon its normal because they checked another Galaxy as well. I know for fact it only started a few months ago. Any ideas what it could be? Imran
  12. My recently acquired Focus (2002 1.6 Ghia) came back from the garage the other day with a really tacky steering wheel. I just assumed it was some grease/grime, tried cleaning it to no avail (it was pretty dirty it turns out). Tried degreaser, still sticky. Tried WD40 (as it's good at removing sticky residues), still sticky. I've scrubbed it to buggery! So two questions: Any tips on removing the stickiness? And, to guide me on what to use, is the steering wheel leather on this model or just leather effect plastic? (some google search suggestions were that, if leather, a leather cleaner/conditioner might do the job)
  13. Hi All I have a shiny new Gord Galaxy Titanium Edition 2014. I have noticed that the front and rear headlamps always stay on when the ignition is on. It is supposed to have auto sensing headlights when is where the knob is set to. Even if I move the knob to manual "0" position, the lights still stay on. ( The dash lights go off in the position). I took it back to the dealer and was told those are the running lights but that sounds like nonsense to me. Anybody know if he's right, will I always have to drive around with my lights on? (and let me clear, they are not the small types of running lights, it is the main headlamps were talking about). There are loads of Galaxys on the road but I have not seen any with headlamps on during the day on any of them. Hope someone can shed some light (sorry, couldn't resist) Imran
  14. Over the last couple of weeks I noticed a rubbing noise when turning, (mainly when to the right) from the front of the car - passenger side wheel I believe. Today I happened to have the windows down a bit for the first time in ages and noticed the rubbing was happening even on the straights now. (The noise gets faster the faster I drive and stops completely when I come to a stop). I asked my local friendly mehanic to check for grit or whatever between the brakes/pads etc (sorry - I'm no car expert). Anyway he saw nothing and said if it gets worse take it to the dealer with it being under warrenty. After finding an empty street I drove a bit more with the windows right down and decided the steam-train-like noise was embarrasing and called the dealer. They said to take it in tomorrow morning for someone to come for a ride and have a listen. Just suprised a bearing may need changed after only 12,000 miles . Is there anything else it is likely to be, or probably a bearing? Thanks I'll report back tomorrow. Flipping cars eh.
  15. Apologies if this is covered in another topic. Hi everyone, My focus has developed a rattle. At cold not so much but when hot it's fairly loud. Sounds like a bag of bolts rumbling around. Bad in neutral or in gear with clutch pressed down but as you engage clutch noise goes away for the most part. Clutch works fine and the noise more or less went away for a few months but has returned worse than before. As you turn engine off the last sound as the engine stops sounds like a flywheel coming to a stop which I'm fairly sure is where the noise is coming from. Is this the clutch plate or DMF? I took it to a dealer when it was not as bad a few months ago when it was more sporadic and he couldn't get it to make a noise - sods law!! Any thoughts appreciated. Anyone???
  16. Clutch? Gearbox? No Idea...

    Hi all, I've seen topics similar to this around the forum which has given me the idea of replacing the clutch. I have a fiesta Mk5 1999 Zetec 1.25 and not so long back I did a stupid thing of wheel-spinning the car on dirt/gravel to set off. Within the first gear change, it felt stiff, would not budge unless forced. I pulled over and noticed the car was behaving out of the ordinary. The sound of the engine had changed to a rumble, and with the clutch down (engine on) it was almost impossible to put the gear stick into any gear. If I put it into first, it would creep forward with a few jumps as if I hit the biting point. Whenever I did hit the biting point, it took an aweful lot of revs to get the car going. Eventually when I got some speed, enough to make a gear change, the changes were unbelievably stiff, it had to be forced. A few days on, it behaves as it should, even with the clutch down, other than the heavy vibrations/jerk when moving off in first gear. There are heavier (or more noticeable rather) vibrations than normal from neutral to getting going. There's also a noise from my engine which sounds like a rumble, similar to that of a spark plug being out (however I've checked them and there okay). As said, looking around at similar faults its been advised to have the clutch and bearing replaced. I am open to other suggestions too. If the clutch is on the go ahead, what's the difficulty on it? I'd rather do it myself and save money. Haynes manual recommends a mechanic gets to it and has the car on a ramp... Something I haven't got! Cheers for the input guys.
  17. Hey guys, I've got a 53 TDDi and after it sitting around for a week, all of a sudden I've started getting a clunking noise while turning the steering wheel stood still. Driving it seems to be OK the majority of the time, every now and then it happens. Found a video on youtube which looks to be the issue I'm having. They say it was the front springs, is there any way I can double check the springs before buying new ones? Replaced my steering rack a little while ago (roughly 2/3 thousand miles ago) so thinking it may possibly be that. Heres the link: Any help would be much appreciated.
  18. I am wanting to replace my rear diffuser with either one off a Zetec S or ST, but on my car the middle two parking sensors are actually in the diffuser, rather than above it on the rear bumper itself where they seems to be on most fiesta's I have seen. I have been looking for rear diffusers for sale that already have the two parking sensors incorporated but cannot find any. I have now decided it is probably quicker to move the sensors onto the car bumper itself and then buy any diffuser. I'm assuming that all I need to move is the sensor which is just connected to a single wire? Has anybody attempted this before? Was it an easy home job or is it better for a garage to do? Cheers.
  19. rear valance

    From the album Fies

  20. Escort Van

    Does anybody on here know of anyone with a rear drivers side hub to suit a 1989 escort van ?
  21. Well after fitting the Spider tuning chip to my 1.6 tdci 115 (now 150) I was really noticing the body roll and the wife was complaining and the dog Barfd!. So it was either drive slower round corners (where's the fun in that?) or sort it., The 40 profile 18's were not helping either Just fitted the BMR78XZ whiteline Rear adjustable Sway bar (anti roll bar for us brits), and am very chuffed http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141436716578?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The car stays flat around corners and roundabouts now, but still has suspension, I purposely drove over speed humps and did both wheel and one wheel up jobs and the suspension of course hasn't changed, but stick her in a roundabout or a fast sweeping bend and she stays really flat and feels less stressed (its raining at moment so cant go too mad), Rear feels much more planted now Fitting wasnt too bad as the car is newish still so all bolts were clean. However the bush mounts did need a tap on the socket handle to free them up (all 13mm). The front arms were easier and need an 18mm spanner for the nut and a 10mm spanner to hold the centre from spinning Only issue was that the holes in the new bar were 2mm too small for the front bolts to fit through. This was remedied with a circular file and 15 mins of elbow grease, rather than a drill. Then the holes were greased up to stop corrosion. The new bar doesn't have stops for the rear bushes like the original, only two orange metal clamps to be applied. I used the old bar to set their position before I put it on the car. The new bushes have Teflon liners so are grease free for life. Went back on easy. Old bished come out of the metal clamps (reused) pretty easily as well with a small prybar There is just enough room to do this without jacking up the rear I put mine on the stiffest straight away. seems a great setting All in all a good investment and modification. Got 400 miles to do tomorrow with dogs in car so that will be a good test S
  22. 20150722 175657 resized (2)

    From the album 2016 UBB RS 550

    While the USA performance tuners are still trying to work out how get the power to the ground on their 650 bhp Mustangs, British designed and built UBB have taken another direction building a four wheel drive Mustang less power at only 550 bhp, however as they say less is more, the four wheel drive will no doubt slaughter the bigger bhp Mustangs on the road and the track available in right and left hand drive.
  23. Rear Seat Squeaking

    Hello, New on here, boldly going with my new 5 door 1.0 ecoboost. It's less than two months old and has developed an annoying squeak from the rear offside. I initially searched the web and checked heat deflectors, hand brake bushes, brake shoes and the rear seat backrest catches. The squeak is only apparent with a single passenger sitting in the middle, rear seat and only when straightening up from a left curve or turn. i.e. if no rear passenger or 2 or more passengers or single passenger on off rear side = no squeak. After much investigation and head scratching I've narrowed the problem down to the rear seat bench. i first looked up how to remove it with instructions telling me it was a very tight fit because of the supporting wire frame locating into hook like brackets next to the seat belt anchors and then the front wire hoops dropping into their locators. On mine the seat bench can be very easily be lifted from the rear before popping up the front locators. Thinking this may be a simple bad install I removed the bench and attempted a better fit. The rear support wire locates without problem into said brackets BUT to get the front loops to locate I have to push the bench backwards (towards the boot) to lign up the front locators. This then allows the seat to be loose at the rear mounts and can once again be lifted out without first popping the front locators. I basically have an ill-fitting rear seat bench that squeaks loudly and annoyingly under the conditions described. Is this something the dealer would be able and willing to cure or even something that has been encountered before along with a possible remedy? TIA
  24. Rear Drop Links Query

    Hi all, I recently had to have the left rear suspension arm replaced when the coil spring snapped. Basically all the bushes etc were seized (I was at the garage at the time & saw the lengths the garage went to trying to remove the assembly). The car drives OK & there isn't any knocking etc, however I was following my car this morning & noticed the left sway bar/anti roll bar looked to be sat lower than the right. I've had a look under the rear & taken a few pics, the left hand drop link looks like its bent in the middle. The right hand one is straight which is how I assume it is supposed to be, I'm a bit confused how the L/H one can be at the angle that it is because the nut that secures it at the top is still in place (unless the bolt section has snapped) but wouldn't it sit lower if it was just "dangling" down. If I decide to have a little "fun" the rear does feel a little loose but it doesn't feel massively unstable when pushing through a corner at speed. Looking at the state of the rubber boots on both I'm leaning towards replacing them, I thought I'd check for any advice on doing the job etc from people more knowledgeable than me! I'm not too bad with a socket set so I'm happy to have a go at replacing them, I just didn't want to start the job & find out there was another part I needed other than replacement drop links such as these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151332257979?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT or maybe some Lemforder ones as I know there stuff seems to be considered good quality. Any advice/input would be appreciated.
  25. Hello , I have joined this club to ask for some help to find out what's wrong with my car . I bought a 55 plate 2.0l tdci 130 Mondeo about 7 months ago . It's a brilliant car but has caused me endless expense since owning it . I've now got to the point where no mechanic I talk to can figure out what's wrong with it . Within 3 weeks of having it the dmfw went , so I booked it in to be replaced , while it was there the changed the fly wheel , clutch , and some tensioner that was knackered too . When I collected the car I was pleasantly surprised that the engine was slightly quieter now. However it still does sound quite ropey . My main issue at the moment is when i start the car - cold or hot - it's takes 2 or 3 attempts to start , and when it eventually goes , it runs on 3 cylinders with the engine management light on , for about 10 seconds , then the light goes out , and the 4th cylinder comes into play !! Along with a nice plume of white smoke out the back . Also while driving it makes a horrible "pinking "sound occasionally . I've had the injectors reprogrammed to the ecu , and I've had it code read - there are no fault codes at all. I'm literally at my wits end and would really appreciate some advice.. Thank you