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Showing results for tags 'forums/reverse+sensor'.

Found 83 results

  1. Right so I want to change my Air Box to an Air filter on my Mk7.5 Fiesta Black Edition 140 - But I have noticed there is a air sensor attached to the unit if i fit an air filter will this cause me any issues if the sensor isn't plugged in? Cheers Ben_140 
  2. Good afternoon, I'm hoping that people here will be able to help me identify some tubes and explain their purpose and whether I can replace them myself. Car is a Ford Focus, Zetec Climate TDCI, 1.8L Diesel, Estate. Please refer to attached picture. Tube A - Cracked through. Thin tube from Turbocharger to sensor? Makes noise similar to blowing through a straw when turbo is running. Does anyone know how I can find a part number, and if it's something I can replace myself (i.e. is it just a push fit or is it heat-shrunk). Tube B - Possible split on underside. Slightly thicker than tube A, unknown origin, runs parallel to a line saying containing fuel don't replace. Does this also contain fuel? What does it do? How easy is it to replace? Part Number? Any help/advice anyone can give about these parts, or guidance on how to find unknown parts that I haven't identified from my Haynes Manual would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Alex
  3. Temperature Gauge Erratic

    Hi My 09 tdci Mondeo MK4 has a strange temperature gauge issue. Sometimes it will appear ok (it never goes past halfway) but most other times not really. Usually it will warm up fairly slowly and only get up to halfway when at speed (60+), slowly dropping down to 1/4 or just below when encountering towns/traffic and driving at a lower speed, but occasionally it does spend most of the journey at halfway, but will never stay there. The car drives without fault apart from this minor issue and both heater and aircon work fine - there seems to be no noticeable effect if I have heat/aircon on or not. It has relatively newish coolant (usually at the right level or thereabouts). Any thoughts? I've had a quick look online and it seems it could be a trial and error job - possibly a faulty sensor/connection, thermostat (less likely) or the instrumnet panel itself. Thanks, semi-baffled.
  4. Fitting St Rear Bumper

    Hi Everyone, think the forum is fantastic and you guys certainly know your stuff, found so much info that has helped me so much, its been a god send. I am a newbie on here but was hoping that you guys may be able to give me some advice. I bought a new focus 2.0 titanium tdci and loved the inside and spec, (previously owned a mk1 and then a mk 1.5.) I don't want to offend anyone but the outside of the mk2 in my opinion was a bit of a disappointment did not like all the black plastic lower bumpers- so started off colour coding. Then coming across this place I started to get the urge to take things a little further so along came a set of ST alloys, then decided to get the Side skirts , and then the front bumper and now just collected a complete rear bumper. Which brings me to my question. Sorry I do tend to babble a bit. On the current bumper I have the reverse sensors but on the St bumper there is no holes I have seen the guides on here and also noticed the guides on the inside for drilling but was wondering will the existing sensors come out of the original bumper and be able to use them on the ST one? I did have the panel off for spraying but did not really pay much attention to them. Or will I need to buy any brackets etc. With the weather being so bad I don't really want to take the panel off until I have finished spraying the ST bumper and ready to fit the new bumper. Thanks for any advice you can give me. :)
  5. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete
  6. Hello all, great forum here that I've been reading for a while. We've recently purchased a 2012 Fiesta Edge which we really love, but I am in the process of fitting some parking sensors front and rear into the factory positions. I have no issues with the fitting of the sensors, or with vehicle electrics etc. as I've done this many times - but I want that factory look in our 'new' car. I've ordered the 'Front Parking Switch' and bezel from Ford and it is exactly what I need. I've even managed to work out which pins provide a momentary action to engage the parking sensors but for the life of me am unable to get the backlight or 'on' light to work on the bench out of the car. I'm led to believe the multiplug for this bezel (which can also house the ESP switch and Airbag Off light) is present in all Fiestas. I'm hoping when I take the dash apart tomorrow I will find this plug and plug it in - if anything to get the backlight working. But does anyone have any experience with getting the 'on' LED to work, I'm guessing this would normally activate a Ford Module for the factory sensors, but I still cannot figure out on the bench how it illuminates the LED, even following the PCB tracks under a magnifying glass. If anyone has done this before (I guess not as I did try searching) and can help in any way that would be great! :)
  7. Outside Air Sensor

    I have just bought a new style ford Mondeo and have been pleased overall however the outside air temperature display keeps going to -40c and the climate control then goes to hot. The dealer changed the sensor but after about 2 days the temp dropped to -40 again although did recover after about 15 mins. A 2nd visit and the engineer said it was just re calibrating itself and would settle down. However over the last few days the readings have again become erratic and once it goes to -40, it stays the same irrespective of C of F. Even the salesman hadn't seen this before as it dropped during a visit and I had chance to show him. Eventually the reading comes back to a more normal value. The garage is unaware of any issues with the sensor so before I go back, is anyone else having a similar problem?
  8. Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011 Hi all, Not really much to do in this guide mainly because the chosen reverse camera kit is so good, Has taken a lot of work out of installing. So here's the Shopping list short and sweet: Reverse camera: If you're living in Ireland and wish to. Purchase this item; sign up to parcel motel and receive it for 3.75 shipping. See link: Here's what's in the box: Very nicely packaged and presented the kit is top quality and i really cant praise it enough :) It replaces the existing boot handle while incorporating the reverse camera in to the handle, This guarantees the camera is most definitely centre aligned on the rear of the vehicle aswell as quite discreet. Pre-crimped terminals ready for splicing in to the existing boot handle cables: And here's where it becomes worth the money :) The loom is separated in two halves by this bespoke connection: This makes things so much easier to install, Because you're not trying to fish a bulky yellow RCA plug through the rubber goose neck between boot door and main chassis :) Its a minute plug instead. So on the end of the loom is your RCA plug for the camera signal: This plugs in to the rear of your compatable headunit And the blue cable: This is a signal feed, it carries positive power from the reverse bulb to the headunit causing the headunit to automatically display the reverse signal each time you put the car in to reverse: Open Boot Door, Remove parcel shelf and store in safe place. Remove both torx screws in side panel: Useful to have a plastic bottle or something to store all screws in preventing them from loss : On the boot door there's two grab handles, Inside these handles are two torx screws; one in each pocket. Remove both screws: Now with one hand holding the metal boot door, Pull down the plastic panel with your other hand. Here's what's beneath: Now remove all six Nuts from iside the panel. This can be awkward when working over head, I suggest sitting in the boot on the sill, With your feet on the ground outside the vehicle, Bring the boot panel down on to your lap makes it much easier to work with, Also when removing these nuts; Count the rotations to removal This avoids over tightening when refitting the panel. Here's the nut locations: Left: Right: After removing the nuts there are two clips which grip in to the boot, These are quite brittle if they snap you can seal with a small amount of silicone sealant, There only there to assist alignment of the panel as the bolts do all the gripping. When the outer panel is removed you will see a rubber grommet like the one in the image below: It's possible to disconnect a plug inside the boot panel allowing full removal of the panel, Allowing it to be brought to a table for working with, Here's what the loom is like dissected from the panels: The single plug on far side of the rubber grommet is the one that's inside the boot panel. Unplug it and the whole panel is free to remove: At this point the standard electronic boot handle should be removed by unplugging it from the loom and squeezing the retaining clips from either side of the unit. Cut loom plug from the end of the boot handle loom: Strip ends ready for crimping on the new terminals: Ensure both cables are passing through the boot panel prior to crimping Insert one cable inside one of the red crimps and squeeze it tight with top of crimping tool. Repeat on the second terminal, It doesn't matter which terminal is crimped to which cable in this case. Following image is for illustration purpose: Working on this guide across the weekend guys, I've gotta back fill with images and some text, I didn't get the required images taken at the time of installation because it was so therapeutic to install. Ill edit across the weekend. Green&yellow feed is reverse positive:
  9. Hi, Has anyone seen reverse camera flickering issue on Ford Galaxy? I bought this car last year in the summer and start having reverse camera flickering problem last winter.The car has been booked 4 for investigation by the dealer but they could not find the fault. They have replaced the camera last end of last winter. The problem went away. I have noticed the same problem again while the care was washed. 1. First a message came saying “break bulb fault” and then the rear view care screen stated flattering. 2. The “break bulb fault” has disappeared after about 10 minutes and come back again the following day. 3. The “break bulb fault” message disappeared again when I accidently drove over a curb. I got my car booked again, I was told at the end fault could not be found, monitor and come back if it happens again. I am seeing the same problem with the screen flickering since last week. No break bulbs are blown-up yet, but this is a matter of time. The screens flickering occurs when the car is cold and weather gets cold and there is a moisture in the air and break lights go faulty very frequently too. When the car gets warm for example if I drive the car for 3 miles the screen flickering stops. My car is with the dealer at the moment. I just got a message saying they will replace the camera. The dealer is trying to fix the problem and they are very friendly and help but I am not convinced the cause of the problem is at the camera. They keep telling me they have checked all the unities and they cannot see any unit issue. I don't think replacing the camera will not fix the problem. This might only hide the problem for sometime. I am worded the when the problem occures again the car might be out of manufactor's warrenty. I don't think replacing the camerawill not fix the problem. This might only hide the problem for some time. I am worded the when the problem occurs again the car might be out of manufactory’s warranty. Any advice is much appreciated. Cheers.
  10. Anyone with advice on replacement of Radio with a new Sat/nav and reversing camera set up, and what to get and how to fit ?
  11. I want to post this thread because I recently came to this site as a new member, hoping to have found the answer I was looking for to my own Ford problem, but without success. There were many similar threads and I take my hats off to those Ford owners who made the effort to post some help and advice for others. However, I hope that my specific thread will be of help to those drivers with the same model Ford as mine. I own a 2005/55 plate Ford Focus 1.6 VTC Petrol 2 Door, of which I am extremely proud. Two weeks ago I had her serviced, ...which brings me on to the subsequent issue I had. 3 days after the car was serviced, the Crankshaft Position Sensor failed and my mechanic was not available to do the job due to being on hols. I had been told that it wasn't a big job and to try and do it myself. I turned to this sight for help, but none of the threads applied to the year and model of my Focus. The good news is, the job has now been me, and I want to share with other Focus owners my experience in replacing the sensor. I did buy the Haynes manual to assist me with locating the sensor (I have limited mechanical knowledge), but moreover I want to share with others how I did the job and what issues I had to overcome. Firstly, to do this job you will need a new sensor (obviously), a small torch, a good strong trolley jack, an axel stand (safety first), a socket set and an 8mm socket. However, as I later explain some of the issues I experienced, I would also suggest having a swivel head socket, or a short shaft 8mm spanner. Next, to locate the sensor on this model, jack up the car using the jacking point just below the driver's door, as the sensor is positioned just left of centre at the base of the block, and after putting a suitable axel stand in position lower the car onto the axel stand for stability. I would also leave the trolley jack in place for added safety. From the front of the car, poisition yourself underneath and look for the oil filter. From the oil filter look up to the crank casing (approx 4-5inch upwards) and you will find a blue coloured electrical connector block sitting slightly inwards in the crack case. This is the sensor connection, and you will need to remove the connector block before you attempt to dismantle the sensor from the crankshaft. To disconnect this, on the connector block you will see a very fine spring this inwards towards the crank case to unlock the block and slip off the connector. With the connector removed you will now be able to clearly see the 8mm bolt head that connects the sensor to the crankshaft. This is where a swivel head socket or a short shaft 8mm spanner may be useful, because as the crankshaft case comes accross the back of the sensor, on this Focus model the crank case bevels outwards, thus limiting the room you have to put the socket with ratchet handle headlong onto the bolt. An extension on the socket head would have helped me, but because this sends the socket handle backwards, the turning of the socket is then limited by the Oil filter. The easisest way would have been with a short shaft 8mm spanner, as this would have slipped neatly onto the bolt, but I didn't have one of these, and the longer handle spanner I had was limited in turning by one of the water hoses running off the base of the engine. If you only have a fixed ratchet handle then you will have to be prepared for alot of short bolt turns because of the limited room to turn it. Once you have loosened the bolt enough, you can get your fingers in and turn it by hand until it is completely out. Now the sensor is free for removel....take hold of it and slide it backwards, out of the Crankshaft and compare it with the new one to double check you have the correct one for replacement. Now you can fit the new one. Carefully slide the sensor into the crankshaft, being careful not to knock or drop it, as this is a 'one time fit' part. As you slide the new sensor into place, be sure to align the bolt head connector up with the thread hole. Use a torch to try and see that it is in line before offering up the connecting bolt. Gently rubbing some fine grease or WD40 onto the connector bolt will help with lubrication. Offer up the connecting bolt and slowly turn it into place by hand as far as you can go. Now revert to finishing off the tightening with the ratchet/spanner, depending on what best suits you. Tighten it up until the socket or spanner won't move without forcing it, but be careful not to over-tighten. Finally, slide the connector block back onto the head of the new sensore and you are done. Jack the car back up off the axel stand, remove the axel stand, and then lower the car back down off the jack. I am hoping to post some photos to this thread as soon as I can find my camera cable to connect to my laptop, but I can honestly say that for a novice mechanic, this job is more fiddly than difficult. I hope this helps someone else, and good luck with any general running repairs that you may have.
  12. Hi, my ka starts fine. Idle is fine. Seems to drive in limp mode. Code reader returns P0500 Speed sensor. Does anyone know where this is located? Many thanks. Luke.
  13. Help With Component

    Hi I am new to this forum so please bare with me. I have a 2006 ford focus 1,6 TDCI and recently stripped the engine down to repair the damage caused by the common turbo failure. The car is now back together and after several attempts at starting it naturally and by 'easy start' finally started it by towing it in second gear until it started. It now starts normal but has no power what so ever. with my foot to the floor the revs creep up very slowly all injectors are working and there is no misfiring. I have attached a photo of something like a sensor, but it has no cables its attatched to some sort of thin hose. i dont know whether this has anything do to with it, its the only thing not connected to anything in the whole engine bay. thanks in advance thanks in advance
  14. Hi all Apologies for the rather flaky description here but I have noticed a small leak (possibly fuel) from the engine of our circa 2007 Ford Ka. Upon closer inspection there is a lead hanging loose with some kind of electronic switch or sensor on the end. This is dangling just below the bottom of the radiator on the right-hand side of the engine. Crawling underneath the front of the car I can see that this should probably sit in a circular hole near the bottom of the block, facing forward. The hole is threaded, around 3/4" diameter and contains a small yellow, rubber membrane. The switch/sensor has a kind of plastic 'push and twist' moulding on it but I still can't manage to secure it in the hole. For now I have pushed it in but it doesn't feel too solid. Does anyone know what this is (in case I have to ask a garage to sort it) or how it connects. With the car on a ramp it would probably be obvious but as it stands I can only guess. Thanks in advance! Martin
  15. Throttle Cutting Out

    Hey everyone, I have a FORD FOCUS 58 Plate 2.0 TDCI Titanium. For years I had an intermittent problem- the throttle pedal would briefly stop working. This began happening once every 3-6 months so wasn't too much of an issue. It now happens everyday. Been researching this problem for a while. Despite following many similar topics on just this forum nothing has solved it yet. I do lots of motorway driving (approx 200 miles everyday). On each journey the throttle pedal stops responding and the revs drop to idle. Occasionally the pedal becomes responsive again, other times I'll have to pull over to stop/start the engine. This tends to reset it. Occasionally I can sense when it will happen as the car judders when easing off the throttle pedal and is slow when pressure applied. I don't appear to have any DTC Fault codes, and a Ford Dealer found nothing after a diagnostic. I've replaced the pedal with another (second hand) and it still cuts out. I ordered a replacement (second hand) Throttle Position Sensor but another pedal showed up instead. I was told on this year/model the TPS is now in the pedal. It has now got to the stage where I'm just wasting money on guessing the fault. Suggestions have included replacing injectors, instrument cluster, ECU, fuel filter, but no-one has actually diagnosed the fault. Any help/suggestions will be much appreciated!
  16. Can any one give me some advise please?. I recently brought a 2005 1.3 petrol, manual KA. The speedo wasn't working when I brought it and thought it would be an easy fix,,it probably is still an easy fix but me and my mechanic are at a bit of a loss.. Hartwells say that the speed sensor is on the gearbox but there is a factory fitted blanking plate where it should be. My mechanic seems to think that the ABS sensor would be the obvious choice next but Hartwells are saying no it's definely not.. If I buy the ABS sensor and it doesn't do the job they have said I can not return the part. As it cost £110 from them I want to make sure this is the only other option.. any advice welcome.. :D
  17. Hey guys, I'm doing some planning for a little retro-fitting and I need to know how can you call this thing on the front window, around the top of the window and around the rain sensor... Since my front window is in top shape, I'm not very in the mood of changing it to the one with sensor built in, so I'd like to use some sort of wrap, or tint or something like that, to fake the original look of the window with sensor... I found black tint on eBay, which I can use for the center black part of the sensor, but the perforated part seems to be "unsearchable" for me (not being a native english speaker and all)...shops here which install window tints looked at me like I'm crazy when I wanted something like this from them, so I think I'm left with eBay... Can you give me a hint on what I can look for? Thanks ;)
  18. Dear All I have a Ford Focus Titanium X Turbo (150) 2012 1596cc 5-Door Estate, Manual, Petrol (for completeness !) with an Alpine INE-W925R Advanced Navi Station replacing the standard Ford-fitted sound systems and I have just bought an HCE-C117D Direct Connection Rear View Camera which I have plugged into the back of the INE-W925R. It works fine, but I need to feed the car's "Reversing Status" into the unit (It has an input labelled "Reverse"). I obviously don't want to run a cable to the back of the car to the positive of the reversing lights if I can pick it up near to the INE-925R. Does anyone know where the nearest point to the central console would be to pick up the positive supply to the reversing lights please ? Many thanks, Peter
  19. Ford focus help

    From the album Focus engine

    Can anybody help identify this component
  20. I have a problem with my newly bought 2008 Kuga 2.0 TDCI. I have an "engine malfunction" which is the dpf. I am hoping I don`t have to buy a new dpf (expensive). Now the engine won`t run more than about 3800rpm-meaning it doesn`t get warm eough for it to regenerate. I found this as a solution: Does anyone have any experience with this? And (fixing for dummies); where is the DPF sensor located (for removal and injecting the dpf cleaner)? (pictures/links will be highly appreciated) Sincerley Allan Henriksen
  21. Hello, Any help would be very much appreciated. The car is a 2007 1.6 tdci estate (euro iv). Can anyone check the photo to see whether the magnet sensor which doses the tank with eolys/DPF additive is missing? The filler housing and arm were changed and I'm told there should be a sensor to add eolys every time the car is filled up. I can't see one! Thanks in advance Mark
  22. Just Need A Little Advice

    Hey guys just signed up here as I got my self a MK4 Fiesta 1.6 not to long ago now and im in the process of getting it back to a better running condition!! How ever while giving it a general service I was changing the sparkplugs and noticed between plug 2 and plug 3 there is what looks like a cable going inside the head with a plug attached to it ... but it looks pretty crowded and its managed to dethatched its self from what its was attached to .. so no doubt its going to need replacing however I'm not totally sure what I'm actually looking at as I'm still teaching my self about engines. Could anyone give us a shove in the right direction please and name what it is so I can look for a part please Thanks
  23. I've had my 56 Fiesta for about two weeks or so now (my first car), I love it! Only trouble is sometimes when I attempt to select the reverse gear, from first the car doesn't move. Reverse is definitely engaged as I can see the reverse light in my rear view, but as I release the clutch and give a little gas, there is no movement, instead it revs as if its still in neutral. Has anyone else experienced this or know of the cause? Thanks :)
  24. Hi, I have a late 2010 Ford Focus 2.0 TDCi, with a 6 speed box. It has a lift-up collar for selecting reverse. The other day, it would go into reverse, but wouldn't come out. I lifted the gaiter up, and found the round black plastic clip (plus a small piece of silver plastic inside it) that attaches the gear knob to the reverse selector had broken off. ​It is only a minor inconvenience, as I can just manually reach below the gear knob and pull the selector up when I want reverse, and it correctly disengages from reverse when I move the stick back to the right. However, whilst my car was in today for a different fault, I asked the garage to take a look. They are telling me you can't buy the clip separately, and have to buy the whole selector unit from Ford, at a cost of £220! Can anyone verify if this is true? I can't post a picture of the broken clip at present, as it's still in the car at the garage, but if you've ever had to lift the gaiter up it will be obvious which it is. The garage has always seemed to be honest with me in the past, but I find it hard to believe in this instance. If it is true, then shame on Ford for such blatant profiteering.
  25. 2015 Focus Titanium

    2015 edn of the Focus Titanium has an array of sensors pointing through the windscreen from behind the morror. I was windering if anyone knows how to get the cover off - I intend to mount a fwd looking camera and leave it in the on loop. I do not have the version which has the sign identification nor high beam detection. Many thanks. Simon.