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Showing results for tags 'forums/smooth+downshift'.

Found 5 results

  1. Hello, I'm new to the Ford Owners Club and a total mechanical novice so please excuse me if my terminology isn't right... 3 Weeks ago I bought a '14 plate Ford Focus Titanium Nav (1.6 Auto) from a Ford Direct seller. Ever since I got the car I've noticed a juddering when accelerating. It appears particularly noticeable when beginning to accelerate from crawling speed as you might in a traffic jam. I returned the car to Ford where I was told that the problem had been diagnosed, and that a software updates of the clutch and PCM were done and that this solve the problem. I collected the car, and immediately noticed that the problem was still there and just as bad. I returned the car to Ford today, and was told that the whole clutch and housing were now being replaced. Having already got the car back once having been told that the problem had been sorted, I now have very little confidence in the garage. Does changing the clutch sound like this will solve the problem? I appreciate any advice anyone can give me so I have as much knowledge as possible for when I got to collect the car again, if the problem has not been solved this second time. Many thanks for your help. Ben
  2. Guide: De-Wiper the boot door Ford Focus Mk2 and Mk2.5 I've had a lot of thought's about doing this modification in the past then i kept putting it off and doing somthing else to the car instead, I have previously removed the rear wiper arm casing and sprayed it gloss black to better blend in with the tinted glass as saw on my build thread link: But now there's little else to be done on the focus and i got bored so here's the guide :) I've purchased a Gloss Black De-Wiper Kit from eBay Link: Gotta love the provided fitting instructions no mercy on the rear wiper if it ain't coming off cut it off I also recommend using some bathroom silicone sealant available to purchase locally at any DIY Store. Tools Required: T25 Torx 8MM Socket or Spanner 1/2" Socket or Spanner Flat head Screwdriver First Step, Lift open elbow cap from the rear wiper blade as saw in image below: Using a 1/2" socket or wrench; Remove the securing nut & washer followed by removing the wiper arm itself, The removal of the wiper arm can prove to be difficult; I first used a flat head screwdriver to free the spring and wiper arm away from the main elbow as saw in images below: "insert image" The method reduced the bulk, Allowing the short elbow section to be prised from the main motor bolt as saw in image below: Next Step, Open the boot door, Remove the parcel shelve, Then using a T25 Torx; remove the panel retaining screw from both pockets in the panel as saw in images below: With both screw's removed; Place one hand on the metal boot door, Place other hand in the pocket of the plastic handle and pull downwards, The panel will unclip as saw in image below, this separation process makes a lot of noise when the plastic is unclipping. Repeat the grip and pull process on the opposite side to remove the panel completely and store it in a safe place until ready to refit. Sit yourself down on the sill of the boot compartment facing outwards towards the rear of the focus, Bring the boot lid down on to your lap resulting in a comfortable position rather than working at it overhead. Unplug the wiring loom from the rear wiper motor, Using an 8mm Socket or Wrench; Remove the three aluminium bolts which retain the wiper motor, The motor will then slide out leaving a black plastic pipe and the rubber grommet behind. Standing up now, Facing in to the boot area; Fold down the boot door, Using a flat head screwdriver on the outside of the boot door; Gently lift the rubber ring upwards prying it out from the glass using fingers and screwdriver taking care not to scratch or break the glass. With the rubber grommet now removed, Refit the three 8mm aluminium bolts that were used to hold the wiper motor in place as they don't weigh very much and best place to store them preventing loss if one should wish to refit the wiper motor at a later date, At this point; Use some PVC electrical insulating tape to cover the wiper loom plug as its now disconnected, It is also recommended to take some time to thoroughly clean the glass area both inside & out followed by allowing time to dry as this will ensure a perfect seal on the blanking cap. As an additional precaution I've used some clear Bathroom silicone to seal around the inside ring of the blanking cap on the inside of the boot to prevent any risk of future leaks passing through, With the glass now clean and dry; Insert the gloss black cap in to the boot from outside. While !Removed! on the silicone coated retaining bolt from inside the boot door, The De-Wiper kit is now completely fitted, Offer up the plastic boot panel, When aligned correctly; slap the panel in to place using the palm of your hand while gripping the metal boot door in other hand, Refit the two T25 Torx retaining screws in to the bottom of the plastic panel !Removed! in until hand tight. Job Done, B) I hope this guide has helped you achieve desired results, Any questions feel free to email me: You may also like to view my full list of guides can be viewed on my profile page: Or If your using the forum App follow this link:
  3. Hi everyone, I'm having two problems with my 2002 Focus w/ an auto transmission. One is that during acceleration, seemingly in any gear, the transmission will "skip" and downshift for a couple seconds, then "knock" back into the appropriate gear. This leads me to believe there is an issue with the transmission, so I made an appointment with a tranny shop to scan the thing and make sure all codes are correct. The second issue is that the headlights and radio have begun flickering and dimming. This makes me think the alternator is at fault. Often, but not always, these two issues will happen at the same time; the transmission downshifts and the radio & headlights flicker, then they correct themselves almost immediately. I'll add that 10 months ago I had a new radio installed; no amp or anything, just a head unit. Other than that this vehicle has had no major issues or repairs in its 12-year, 85,000 kilometer lifespan. Is the alternator and transmission linked in some way? Could this be a battery issue? Fuses? Or two separate issues altogether? Are these issues a cause for concern? I'd appreciate the insight that any of you have into the innerworkings of this vehicle, whether you've experienced similar issues or simply know more about it than I do and are willing to share. Thanks in advance, Alex
  4. Hi There!

    Hi all, I am currently driving in a 1.3 Fiesta Finesse which I have had for just over a year and I'm just looking for some advice on things to do to my fiesta to make look a bit cooler and general up keeping of my wee ford. Thanks for reading!
  5. You don't have to be driving a Fiesta RS WRC on the RAC Rally to use a technique called 'heel and toe' to make smoother downshifts and increase safety by having better control of the car. A small 'blip' of the throttle between the gears helps to synchronise engine speed to the revs needed for the lower gear to engage more smoothly, and your passengers won't even realise you've gone down a cog as you approach the corner. With the toe of the right foot firmly on the brake, the clutch disengaged (important!) a touch on the accelerator with the heel of the foot brings the revs up and the lower gear slides in nicely. The problem on the Mondeo Mk 4 is that the accelerator pedal is too far away from the brake to be able to 'heel and toe' effectively. Ford can supply a nice set of 'race pedals', a snip at a mere £155 + VAT, but search the internet and one can buy a kit with all three pedals for £9.80 including P&P. You don't need the brake and clutch pedals, they can go in the recycle bin but the accelerator pedal which fits over the original does the job nicely, reducing the gap to the brake pedal, increasing the overall size and raising it towards the height of the brake pedal by 8mm so that one can now 'heel and toe' very effectively. The accessory pedal comes with two brackets which give a firm fit over the original accelerator pedal, but for added security I put in a 5mm No 4 self tapper which holds everything in place. Be sure to position the accessory pedal carefully so that at full travel it does not hit the carpet (ie make sure the accelerator can still hit the stop) and the gap between the brake and new, larger accelerator pedal is at least 40mm.