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Showing results for tags 'forums/un-Locking+boot'.

Found 136 results

  1. Hi all, new to this site as I have just bought my first Ford!  OK so its a really old 2000 Focus but that's what I could afford. I have had to do some small bit of work to get it past the NCT but I am now looking at fixing an annoying central locking issue.  There is no remote locking on this model it is just the standard torch key type key.  When you lock/unlock from drivers door, the central locking does not work at all it only unlocks the drivers door.  However on passenger door it is very intermittent.  In the 1 month I have owned the car, it must have worked about 3 times unlocking all  doors from passenger side. Its so annoying because I now have to take the key out of the ignition every time to open the boot as the release button does not work when the central locking is not operational and I have to manually unlock all doors from inside for passengers. I suspected the fuse at first as it was not working at all, but then when it worked intermittently from passenger door I discounted that.  Is there anywhere I can start to fault test on this?  It must be a sensor or switch somewhere that is not working.  I am not even sure if the alarm works because the "double locking" does not seem to work as per the manual and there are no flashing lights when I lock the door, although the tiny internal red light flashes after locking up. Any advise is greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
  2. Info On A Couple Of Mods

    hey guys, just wondering if any one has any information, price range and level of difficulty to install global locking and cruise control in my 57 plate focus. cheers
  3. Hi all, I've got a Mk3 Focus, and a new born baby... we have a baby seat that the rear seat belt of the Focus wraps around in various ways to hold it tight into the car, however this relies on the rear seat belt of the Focus engaging an automatic locking mode. This mode is supposedly engaged by pulling the seat belt down and all the way out, then letting it retract back in (apparently coinciding with a clicking noise as the belt retracts) , and while in this mode the seat belt should only retract, and not allow any release of the tension, allowing you to pull the belt tight, and the seat belt keeping the tension. Great, or so I thought until I tried to engage the locking mode, no dice, the seat belt just retracts or releases as under normal driving conditions. I tried both left and right rear seat belts but can't get either to engage the locking mode, if one side worked and the other didn't i'd put it down to having one duff rear belt, but with both sides not working, I can only put it down to having a duff understanding of what I need to do to engage the locking mode. Can anyone shed light on what trick is required to get the rear seat belt to go into the locking mode? I'm grateful of any help. Thanks all. Phil
  4. Ok so I bought this car earlier in the year. Has been fantastic for my family especially getting to hospital appointments with my daughter (she has a rare condition) My car, a 53 plate fiesta finesse was due mot 22nd Dec so I took it early. Arnold Clark found it needed a middle section of exhaust and three brake pipes. Got these all replaced at small garage and car was taken back for retest and passed! Got car home and since driver has brought it back it's had nothing but problems. This morning it was starting but unless reved it would cut out while idle. As the day went on it has stalled at every junction, roundabout and when lowering speed. The steering lock (yes the steering completely locks!) has completely locked after stalling a number of times (I ended up on pavement at one point as I was turning into the road!) AC want nothing to do with it as he only looked at car for mot and didn't touch anything. Another garage replaced fuel pump and I'm now stalling at a couple junctions but steering wheel still locking. Have spent 400 so far and at my wits end!! Garage noted rev counter shoots up and down too. All before Xmas too! Terrified to drive it and can't put kids in it. The car has v clean engine, and only 67000 miles so shouldn't be doing all this surely?!!
  5. Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011 Hi all, Not really much to do in this guide mainly because the chosen reverse camera kit is so good, Has taken a lot of work out of installing. So here's the Shopping list short and sweet: Reverse camera: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171231720467 If you're living in Ireland and wish to. Purchase this item; sign up to parcel motel and receive it for 3.75 shipping. See link: http://www.parcelmotel.com/ Here's what's in the box: Very nicely packaged and presented the kit is top quality and i really cant praise it enough :) It replaces the existing boot handle while incorporating the reverse camera in to the handle, This guarantees the camera is most definitely centre aligned on the rear of the vehicle aswell as quite discreet. Pre-crimped terminals ready for splicing in to the existing boot handle cables: And here's where it becomes worth the money :) The loom is separated in two halves by this bespoke connection: This makes things so much easier to install, Because you're not trying to fish a bulky yellow RCA plug through the rubber goose neck between boot door and main chassis :) Its a minute plug instead. So on the end of the loom is your RCA plug for the camera signal: This plugs in to the rear of your compatable headunit And the blue cable: This is a signal feed, it carries positive power from the reverse bulb to the headunit causing the headunit to automatically display the reverse signal each time you put the car in to reverse: Open Boot Door, Remove parcel shelf and store in safe place. Remove both torx screws in side panel: Useful to have a plastic bottle or something to store all screws in preventing them from loss : On the boot door there's two grab handles, Inside these handles are two torx screws; one in each pocket. Remove both screws: Now with one hand holding the metal boot door, Pull down the plastic panel with your other hand. Here's what's beneath: Now remove all six Nuts from iside the panel. This can be awkward when working over head, I suggest sitting in the boot on the sill, With your feet on the ground outside the vehicle, Bring the boot panel down on to your lap makes it much easier to work with, Also when removing these nuts; Count the rotations to removal This avoids over tightening when refitting the panel. Here's the nut locations: Left: Right: After removing the nuts there are two clips which grip in to the boot, These are quite brittle if they snap you can seal with a small amount of silicone sealant, There only there to assist alignment of the panel as the bolts do all the gripping. When the outer panel is removed you will see a rubber grommet like the one in the image below: It's possible to disconnect a plug inside the boot panel allowing full removal of the panel, Allowing it to be brought to a table for working with, Here's what the loom is like dissected from the panels: The single plug on far side of the rubber grommet is the one that's inside the boot panel. Unplug it and the whole panel is free to remove: At this point the standard electronic boot handle should be removed by unplugging it from the loom and squeezing the retaining clips from either side of the unit. Cut loom plug from the end of the boot handle loom: Strip ends ready for crimping on the new terminals: Ensure both cables are passing through the boot panel prior to crimping Insert one cable inside one of the red crimps and squeeze it tight with top of crimping tool. Repeat on the second terminal, It doesn't matter which terminal is crimped to which cable in this case. Following image is for illustration purpose: Working on this guide across the weekend guys, I've gotta back fill with images and some text, I didn't get the required images taken at the time of installation because it was so therapeutic to install. Ill edit across the weekend. Green&yellow feed is reverse positive:
  6. Hi guys, I have a 2001 Mk3 mondeo estate 1.8 Petrol. The drivers door got smashed and the barrel was destroyed and the car was stuck with all the doors locked. A locksmith charged me £120 to get the door open and make a new standard key, but still only the drivers door would open, the rest of the doors remain locked. I found a cheap door on ebay, so I'm hoping after putting that on, the other doors will unlock when I unlock that. The locksmith said that my remote key is ok and communicating with the car, as you can hear the clicking noise from the dash, when I push the buttons and if I hold down the unlock button, all the windows will open. I'm told the central locking module is in the drivers door, so that is obviously damaged aswell. So after putting the new door on, will i need to have the key re-programmed, or should it just work? Thanks
  7. Remote Central Locking - Mk2.5

    Hi, The other day the fob in my car became quite intermittent. Then stopped all together. Assumed (Rightly or Wrongly) that it is a new battery required. Changed the battery, and got nothing. So assumed I will need to re-learn the key via the learning mode (0-II 4 times in 3 seconds). I must have tried to get the car into learning mode, 30 or 40 times to no avail. Has anyone ever experienced this? Not sure if it helps...but I was in FF2 & elmConfig a couple of months back changing a few bits....i wonder if I have accidentally unticked/ticked something that I shouldnt have. Cheers Gary
  8. Ford Focus Mk3 2011

    Hi all. I have the Focus mk3 zetec 2011 and the license plate bulb has stopped working. I have called gkford parts and they reckon i have to buy the entire boot release switch etc at a cose of £32 i have enloses a picture of the rubber sealed catch and would like to ask anyone if this is true or can the bulb just be replaced. dont really want to fork out £32 for all that when its just the damn bulb, pretty expensive bulb. or does anyone know if there is any online spares shop etc. thanks all steve
  9. Hi, I'm after fitting an aftermarket RCL to my girlfriends Fiesta. It has central locking at the moment but the drivers door doesn't work with it (suspect it's the solenoid on that side). Would fitting an aftermarket remote system fix the drivers door issue? Am I best getting this type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-REMOTE-CENTRAL-DOOR-LOCKING-KIT-NEW-/160880444466?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item257538c432#ht_500wt_1361 or this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REMOTE-CENTRAL-LOCKING-CONVERSION-KIT-KEYLESS-ENTRY-UPGRADE-VW-NEW-PACKED-/310366111086?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item484343056e#ht_1855wt_1111 Thanks.
  10. Door Issue

    Hi can anyone help, I've got a ford focus 2005 reg and I can't get the passenger doors to open with the fob or key in lock , I've found that the only way I can open the other doors is by having the drivers door open and pressing the lock button on fob , and only then will the other doors open . Also the passenger door wont open from inside has to be as described from above before can open Fob locks fine though and does open the boot , recently changed battery as thought it might be that and checked the fusses no problems there either Help anyone please
  11. hi guys i am really really hoping someone can help, i have a tdci zetec 2004 without remote central locking. I have done alot of digging on the net for this and have seen the guide someone on here created. I have know (from what i have read) that any gem starting 6st is a no go as its for the face lift and as mine is a 5 door pre facelift i need one starting 4st which is all fine and I have read the post about the A,B,C,D starting of the two letters at the end of the GEM code relating to what it has. Now i have searched ebay and scrap yards for ANY (2st or 4st) gem ending with a CL or any ending in C - they do not seem to exist! I have found ones ending in DF and DA but have read that you need to have deadlocking on your car for them to function correctly so have not bothered with them. Can someone please put me out of my misery do any remote central locking GEMS without deadlocking and alarms even exist!? Or did all pre facelift if with remote locking meant they had deadlocks two? I have even found DA ending models in early LX cars. Please if you know the answer to this please let me know.
  12. LED Boot Light Install

    From the album Fiesta Zetec 2008

  13. LED Boot Light Install

    From the album Fiesta Zetec 2008

  14. Hi, I have a Mk1 saloon which appears to be leaking water into the boot. Small amount of water is dripping on the carpet. When I put my hand under the lip on the passenger side (around the area where the pulls are to drop the rear seat) it comes back wet. My mechanic has had a look and can't figure out if the rear screen is letting water in (so it's running down inside the car and coming around the join) of if the seem that sits just above is letting water in. It worse when it's been washed, and oddly when opening the boot the entire back half of the lid is covered in water droplets (my first thought was that the seal around the boot had gone). My mechanic, when testing tried blowing air up from inside the car to see if any bubbles appears around the rear screen with no luck. My mechanic thinks the rear screen might break if we take out and re-seal, but there is no guarantee this the cause. By the way, it's not coming from the light cluster - totally dry around both of these so 100% not leaking rear lights! Anybody else had this problem or any ideas on where else it might be coming from? The car is good condition and has only mid 50k miles from new so don't mind spending some money on it, just want to make sure it's not wasted! Thanks
  15. Recently I have began to suffer from a random failure of the central locking on the driver side door only (when operated by remote key fob). If I single press to unlock, the SOUND of all doors unlocking is heard but in reality the driver door stays locked. Sometimes it takes two or three 'unlock' presses to successfully to get it to unlock. Yesterday however it became more urgent because I discovered that not only is it failing to unlock correctly, it is also failing to lock correctly. ie, I single press 'lock', I hear the mechanism fire on all doors, yet I can then still open the drivers door (and consequently of course the alarm goes off). So now it is more urgent as I didnt realise I was leaving my car exposed/open in this way (believing that when I pressed 'lock' the car was LOCKED!) I THINK that doing the double-press (for dead lock) does lock the door, but this is not guaranteed to happen just in case I forget to do it (nor am I 100% sure anyway as I havent properly checked it is successful every time without fail). So, the question: does anyone have any advice? Is it a common problem that is fixable with a spray of WD40? Is it DIY fixable at all (If so how? How does one get to the solenoid or whatever its called)? Or is it 'take to a Ford garage with a large bank account and blank cheque book' fixable only? TIA Jim
  16. Hi Re Fiesta Style, 1.25, 2008, The issues are: - unlocking boot doesn't always work by double-pressing remote key - interior light doesn't always switch off - central locking locks then automatically unlocks (with remote key and spare key) If I lock the passenger door from within the central locking appears to work. I've removed the passenger door panels, cleaned contacts on door switch and checked multi pin plug is a tight fit on both doors. I couldn't see any broken wires but don't have a circuit diagram to test connections. Any advice most welcome. The clock spring also needs replacing to cure the airbag always on light but I expect this is a separate issue to the central locking. Many thanks
  17. Hot Electric Window Buttons..?

    Hey Ford Owners Club, I bought a 1996 Fiesta Saphire last week or so for a very decent price considering the engine was replaced at 48,000 miles and has only done 30,000 since. However the locks were dodgy which I was told but have been working ok up until today when my luck ran out and I had to try and break into my car and then when that didn't work, call the AA to come and break into my car... During all of this the immobiliser got activated but we managed to get the windows down by connecting his power supply up to mine to get the ignition on and shoving a stick through the wedged open door. The locks went super spazzy and so we had to take the Central locking fuse out. Anyway, it doesn't seem that much has been affected thankfully other than I have just done a 45 minute journey and I noticed that the electric window buttons were incredibly hot. It was night so I wasn't using them so not like they had any reason whatsoever to get so hot and distressed. I checked under the hood and the engine also seemed very hot however my air conditioning still came out cool and didn't idicate any unusual behaviour to me. I have taken it on several journeys of around this length or longer since I've had it and not noticed any problems at all. It could be that this was happening before and I didn't notice but I can't help but feel that it's only happening because of the problems earlier on in the day... I'm a bit concerned so hoping someone might know what to do or suggest to help. Guessing this is the right place to ask! Thanks, Zak
  18. Guide: Fitting Boot Door Tow Strap Ford Focus Mk2 and Mk2.5 I've created this guide to show how one of these Tow Straps can be fitted as a boot pull handle, Which in my opinion is functional, modified appearance and adds a new twist to the use of this increasingly popular item. A detailed background regarding the original purpose of these straps is viewable in the first post below this guide. I've purchased a Blue SPARCO branded Tow Strap from eBay Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171845269997 Tools Required: T25 Torx, Dremil Style Rotary Tool, Small drill bit head, Masking Tape, Pencil, Set Square or Ruler, Roll Gaffer Tape, First Step, Open the boot door, Remove the parcel shelve, Then using a T25 Torx; Unscrew the panel retaining screw from both pockets in the panel as saw in images below: With both screw's removed; Place one hand on the metal boot door, Place other hand in the pocket of the plastic handle and pull downwards, The panel will unclip as saw in image below, this separation process makes a lot of noise when the plastic is unclipping. Repeat the grip and pull process on the opposite side to remove the plastic panel completely. With the panel now removed, Lift out the green insulation pad and set it to one side, Using masking tape, Apply a strip to the area slightly above the drivers side pocket inset of the plastic handle, Draw a line that is within close alignment with the top of the pocket insert; Line up the metal bracket of the tow strap with the centre screw hole of this pocket, Mark out the width you require the slot to be. When the markings are exactly as you would like; Obtain the Dremil Rotary tool and cut out the markings, Trial fit the metal bracket and adjust slot to size as required, NOTE: the panel is quite flexible meaning the Tow Strap can be squeezed through a small slot rather than boring bigger try work it through as small as possible. Remove masking tape followed by; A few fire lit matches held closely above the cut slot will gently melt the rough edge that's left behind from cutting the slot, Also; My initial plan was to sandwich the metal bracket of the tow strap to the space between the plastic pocket on the panel And The metal bracket of the boot door as saw above; The alignment is correct in such way the Tow Strap bracket hole is in alignment where the Torx screw would secure it like a washer between both panels, This plan proved to be 100% possible, However i became concerned that the tow strap metal may rub off the boot panel metal bracket causing the paint to strip and rust, End result. As a precaution i used a series of small Gaffer tape strips to hold the Tow strap bracket secure to the inside of the panel which performs just as good without any risk of scuffing paint. Whichever mounting option you choose A: fit to Torx screw like a Washer, or B: Secure Bracket with Tape At this point its time to refit the foam padding, If fitting the Tow bracket to the Torx screw; a Stanley blade is required to cut a slot in the foam allowing the bracket to easily pass through. Refit the foam padding, Return to the car offer up the plastic boot panel, When aligned correctly; slap the panel in to place using the palm of your hand while gripping the metal boot door in other hand, Refit the two T25 Torx retaining screws in to the bottom of the plastic panel !Removed! in until hand tight. Job Done, B) I hope this guide has helped you achieve desired results, You may also like to view my full list of guides can be viewed on my profile page: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/user/14733-lenny/ Or If your using the forum App follow this link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/68214-full-list-lennys-guides/
  19. I have a problem with my central locking on my MK1 Focus 2000 CL model (no remote locking on CL models) which is driving me crazy. I cannot lock the car from drivers side unless the passengers side is already locked ( the locks just 'bounce' back) . When unlocking the car the passenger side stays locked. The central locking works fine when locking from the passenger side though. To try and fix the problem I've replaced the locking motors in passenger and drivers doors but he problem still persists. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be are welcome thanks.
  20. Hi, Im new to the forum as figured somebody may have had one or some of the issues i am having and may be able to point me in the right direction to fix without spending if i dont have to. i, passenger side electric wing mirror no longer working (drivers side fine and working off same switch) & have checked fuses ii, Electronic boot release switch inside the cabin no longer works to release boot (Have changed switch) & recently will not open from the key fob either iii, cigarette lighter randomly stopped working. changed to new power unit but there is no power getting through at all Im no mechanic but do have a basic understanding of how things are changed etc but im lost as to why the above has happened. Any help or ideas would be great! Thanks!!!
  21. Hi. I've got a Fiesta Mk6 with electric boot release, key fob and dashboard button both of which have stopped working. I can still get in to the boot using the key. Looking at it when i press the button on they key to open the boot the latch moves but not enough to open it which is where i believe the problem to be!! Any suggestions to fix it would be great :)
  22. Hi Guys, I've recently purchased a 2004 KA 1.3 Collection for the other half, it's in really good condition for a 04 plate but does has a couple of small annoyances (for me anyway !) Both the bonnet and boot Ford badges are missing, I know I can pick some up from eBay but can anyone confirm if both badges would be the same size, or is one smaller than the other .. I only picked the car up last night so haven't had a chance to measure. Any help or advice would be greatly received. Thanks.
  23. Focus 2004 1.8 Diesel

    Hi I have a bizarre issue with my central locking on my focus. When I walk towards the car it unlocks it self without out me pressing any buttons , it will keep on making the open sound constantly till I put the key in and start it . When I stop the car again and get out the clicking starts again . It will only stop and locks itself when I move out of range of the car. Any ideas please how to stop this, is it the fob stuck on open or something .
  24. Issue With Central Locking

    Hi, i was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem i have been having. Since i got my focus the unlocking of the car worked as normal, 1 click unlocked all doors and the boot. The last couple of days have been different and i dont know why it would have changed. Now it works like this, 1 click unlocks driver door, 2 clicks unlocks all doors then a 3rd unlocks the boot. 1 click still locks the car normally and the double click for the boot works. The only thing that has changed is opening all doors and boot with the 1 click of the unlock button. Anyone know how i get this back to normal? My car is a 2012 ford focus 1 litre ecoboost. Thanks very much Scott
  25. !Removed! Electrics

    Can someone please please save my sanity and point me in the right direction to sort my mk4 electrics out Firstly the central locking just clicks and doesn't engage,I've locked at both motors and they both appear to move/be working Secondly the heater control/blower doesn't work ie it doesn't blow Help me please before I go mad!!!!