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Showing results for tags 'forums/wiper+change'.

Found 55 results

  1. Hi all, I've got a mk2.5 focus with the standard 1 bulb interior light in, now I was just wondering about changing it to one with map reading lights, I've seen some on eBay and I'm not sure if it's the correct one for my car or not and just wondered if they just plug straight in or will have to rewire, if anyone knows I'd just like a bit of advice 😊 Thanks
  2. Evening Everybody. I hate only joining a forum to ask a question but I am looking for some advice with my 2007 (57) Focus. Wife went out in the car yesterday morning and the front wipers are no longer working - I immediately assumed that it was either the fuse or the linkage (my old Punto back in the day constantly had wiper issues). So far I have checked the fuse (Fuse 129 iirc) and it appears to be fine, I have checked and I am getting just under 12v output from the wiring loom (11.9v) and checked for any visible signs of damage/water ingress on the loom but couldnt see anything. I have tried two replacement motors from a local breakers but neither worked - the exact same as before. When I attempt to run the wipers I can hear the fuse box making the "ticking noise" that I would expect. Other functions from this stalk appear to be working without issues (rear wipers and front water jets) and all other electricals are working from what I can tell. I have had a look through the forums and it appears that people have had this issue with various different sources of the problem and hoping somebody may be able to assist with troubleshooting further. We have been discussing upgrading to Mondeo in the next month or so and really want to avoid spening cash on the car. Thanks Mark
  3. Hi all, I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one, Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results. Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item. Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates. http://www.ebay.ie/itm/EGR-valve-blanking-block-plate-PEUGEOT-CITROEN-FORD-VOLVO-1-4-1-6-HDI-TDCi-DDiS-/170912771190 This guide is now available to download in pdf format making it eaier to print or share, See link to download: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/62546-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine-pdf/ Tools Required: 16mm Socket 5/16 Socket 8mm Socket 13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted) T30 Torx screw driver T20 Torx screw driver Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how, But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best. . http://m.youtube.com/?reload=9&rdm=ticq739n#/index?&desktop_uri=%2F Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel. Once unclipped; Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car. Next step is to remove the panel beneath also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel. Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car. When screws are removed from the panel; Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear: when removed: Store in a safe place until replacing on the car Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine, Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?" Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block. This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!! This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler, Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber. Now to fit the EGR blanking plate; You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts. Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler" And The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block, This is a case of trial pulling Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate. See in the image below this text: The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange, I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate, So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate, This is best for a good seal. Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine In to the left. Very easy, Just hook on to the top bolt And Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself. Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve, Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate. Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up Followed by the nut on the egr cooler. Here is the blanking plate fitted: Now to replace the panels Ensure the seals are free from dirt Also check the top panel under the windscreen, It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal. .. All back togeather You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range, Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little) Engine idle is quieter Exhaust smoke doesn't exist Your induction system now takes in clean air only No carbon in your induction Less engine oil contamination All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting, Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated. Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though. Well worth every penny and more! By far the best modification on the car to date. Diesel Engines with an active or once active EGR Valve suffer heavily from carbon deposits contaminating the engine oil, These carbon deposits operate much like cholesterol in the human body gathering in the arteries of the heart; These carbon deposits mix with the oil and turn to sludge which slowly gathers in the turbo oil feed pipe, Eventually leading to oil starvation in the turbo causing instant turbo failure. I've used Wynn's engine flush before and once recommended it, however wynn's formula is a bit too abrasive which strips everything from the engine internals leading to risk of scribing and minute cavitations the product leaves nothing behind only your next fill of oil to protect internals. The best product on the market to flush out the carbon and other harmful deposits from your engine is from a company called Xado, They manufacture an organic based engine flush product which also has some revitalizant: Forms an anti-wear coating on friction parts immediately during oil system flushing Creates reserve of anti-wear protection properties, prevents possible defects on friction surfaces during further engine operation. Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10 This bottle gets poured in to the existing engine oil when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature. You can then drive for a distance up to 20km/15miles prior to draining the oil. This makes Total Flush from Xado an ideal product for those of us whom don't carry out oil changes ourselves, Simply pour the bottle in to the engine prior to leaving your car in to the garage for a service gives great peace of mind and protection. I've used this product a few times now myself on my 1.6TDCi engine, I've noticed the engine idles quieter and drives smoother its definitely worth purchasing as part of the routine service on your vehicle.
  4. Decent Wiper Blades

    Hi: Can anyone recommend any good windscreen wiper blades (front only) for my 2001 Ford Focus 1.6. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi, I have a fiesta mk7 zetec s. I'm looking to change my main beam, dipped and fog lights. Can someone give me a link to some? I'm just looking for a more bright white light, preferably with a hint of blue if possible? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  6. I took my focus in for some work doing on the electric seat They fixed the seat but did a software change to the reversing system that has caused it to operate differently to when I first got the car. It now has a black dotted line on the camera screen that it never had, it now displays the grid that I used to have to select if I needed it and the rear half of the cars sensors no longer show up on the small pictograms in the top left of the camera screen, has anyone else had this issue or know why Ford made this change without informing me Any help on this would be greatly appreciated
  7. 2.5t Clutch Change

    Hi All, I have recently bought a 2008 plate Titanium X 2.5T model which drives like a dream, however, my one little issue is that it's done 110,000 miles and has a full FSR history but the clutch pedal doesn't seem to have to be depressed very far to change gear. Is this normal for this type of car as I drove a TDCI C-Max before this car and therefore I have no history? Clutch doesn't slip in any gear but I'm just being mindful and would like to hear other people's views.
  8. Hi Changed oil and filter a few weeks ago, had problem removing old filter. Do not want same problem next year. Does anyone know what type/model number of cup removal tool I require for my car and where to purchase it from amazon or e-bay, not a lot of clearance to fit a tool, my chain type worked but was difficult. All help appreciated, Barry T
  9. Focus 2012 Clutch

    Hi all does any one know how long it will take a dealer to change a clutch Master cylinder ? our 2012 focus titanium has done 40535 miles and the clutch has failed ?? they say it is the master cylinder but they have stripped the car over a week ago ??
  10. Changing Front Grilles

    I'm trying to change the front upper and lower grill on my fiesta Zetec S 2014 ecoboost 1lt but not too sure exactly how to get the old ones off? Anyone have any idea? Thanks
  11. I've changed all the ambient lights except the top two little ones where the ceiling light is. How on earth can I change them??? It's the only red part in my car!! Annoying! Please help
  12. Recently serviced my 03 sportka, euro car parts had an offer on Shell Helix so I went for 5ltrs of HX6 (5W30), ever since the oil change once the engine is warm its started being a bit noisy around 3,000 rpm, sounds a bit like tappets to the untrained ear. Car previously had some very good value tripleX which is euro car parts own brand cheap oil, engine ran nice and quiet on this. Realise the cars getting on in years and its just topped 73,000 miles so not looking for perfection but it just feels a bit too noisy. The engine is a 1.6 8 valve Duratec (Zetec Rocam), everything I've read on these engines points to them being pretty tough lumps, and the cars not a hard life. any suggestions welcome, currently planning on swapping out the oil and reverting back to cheap and cheerful tripleX Cheers, Ed
  13. Guide: De-Wiper the boot door Ford Focus Mk2 and Mk2.5 I've had a lot of thought's about doing this modification in the past then i kept putting it off and doing somthing else to the car instead, I have previously removed the rear wiper arm casing and sprayed it gloss black to better blend in with the tinted glass as saw on my build thread link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/41443-taking-oval-to-blue-horizon-lennys-build-thread-2010-2015/?p=398169 But now there's little else to be done on the focus and i got bored so here's the guide :) I've purchased a Gloss Black De-Wiper Kit from eBay Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301650369289 Gotta love the provided fitting instructions no mercy on the rear wiper if it ain't coming off cut it off I also recommend using some bathroom silicone sealant available to purchase locally at any DIY Store. Tools Required: T25 Torx 8MM Socket or Spanner 1/2" Socket or Spanner Flat head Screwdriver First Step, Lift open elbow cap from the rear wiper blade as saw in image below: Using a 1/2" socket or wrench; Remove the securing nut & washer followed by removing the wiper arm itself, The removal of the wiper arm can prove to be difficult; I first used a flat head screwdriver to free the spring and wiper arm away from the main elbow as saw in images below: "insert image" The method reduced the bulk, Allowing the short elbow section to be prised from the main motor bolt as saw in image below: Next Step, Open the boot door, Remove the parcel shelve, Then using a T25 Torx; remove the panel retaining screw from both pockets in the panel as saw in images below: With both screw's removed; Place one hand on the metal boot door, Place other hand in the pocket of the plastic handle and pull downwards, The panel will unclip as saw in image below, this separation process makes a lot of noise when the plastic is unclipping. Repeat the grip and pull process on the opposite side to remove the panel completely and store it in a safe place until ready to refit. Sit yourself down on the sill of the boot compartment facing outwards towards the rear of the focus, Bring the boot lid down on to your lap resulting in a comfortable position rather than working at it overhead. Unplug the wiring loom from the rear wiper motor, Using an 8mm Socket or Wrench; Remove the three aluminium bolts which retain the wiper motor, The motor will then slide out leaving a black plastic pipe and the rubber grommet behind. Standing up now, Facing in to the boot area; Fold down the boot door, Using a flat head screwdriver on the outside of the boot door; Gently lift the rubber ring upwards prying it out from the glass using fingers and screwdriver taking care not to scratch or break the glass. With the rubber grommet now removed, Refit the three 8mm aluminium bolts that were used to hold the wiper motor in place as they don't weigh very much and best place to store them preventing loss if one should wish to refit the wiper motor at a later date, At this point; Use some PVC electrical insulating tape to cover the wiper loom plug as its now disconnected, It is also recommended to take some time to thoroughly clean the glass area both inside & out followed by allowing time to dry as this will ensure a perfect seal on the blanking cap. As an additional precaution I've used some clear Bathroom silicone to seal around the inside ring of the blanking cap on the inside of the boot to prevent any risk of future leaks passing through, With the glass now clean and dry; Insert the gloss black cap in to the boot from outside. While !Removed! on the silicone coated retaining bolt from inside the boot door, The De-Wiper kit is now completely fitted, Offer up the plastic boot panel, When aligned correctly; slap the panel in to place using the palm of your hand while gripping the metal boot door in other hand, Refit the two T25 Torx retaining screws in to the bottom of the plastic panel !Removed! in until hand tight. Job Done, B) I hope this guide has helped you achieve desired results, Any questions feel free to email me: leonard.woods@live.ie You may also like to view my full list of guides can be viewed on my profile page: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/user/14733-lenny/ Or If your using the forum App follow this link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/68214-full-list-lennys-guides/
  14. Support 1996- 2015 Ford Lincoln Mercury. Easy and accurate with step by step procedure. You save time and money for Oil Maintenance Light Reset. Get it on play store: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.obdhightech.fordoillightreset.oilreset.servicelight.oilprocedure
  15. Hi there my Wiper Blades are smearing the rain and making it difficult to see my Ford is still under warranty does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
  16. Hi! Can anyone please help me locate the front wiper control relay on an 06 Focus C-Max? I think I need to replace it as it keeps blowing fuses when the wiper switch is either off, or set to intermittent. If I have the ignition turned on, and have the switch on either continuous or fast when I put in a new fuse, the motor runs fine. As soon as I move the switch to intermittent or off, it then blows the fuse. Any Thoughts? Steve.
  17. Oil Change For Focus 2.0 Tfci ?

    Hello guys, my time for changing oil has finally came and i need your advece. I have a Focus 2.0TDCi 2006 with 119k km on the oddometer.What oil should i buy, witch is best recomended? i live in Greece with a good climate, warm in summer and normal cold in winter. my suspision is that they might have changed the "Km" on my oddometer and it might have 219k km. Anyway in the too cases please tell me what oil to take? 119k km diesel------- >>>> ???? 219k km diesel------- >>>> ????
  18. Ford Focus Cambelt Change

    I have a 2007 Ford Focus 1.8Tdci estate on almost 97,000 miles. When should I change the cambelt and approx. how much should it cost?
  19. Guide to changing wiper blades on ford focus 2005-2011 now available to download in PDF format below: Guide Wiper Blade Change Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5.pdf
  20. Oil Type 913-B Or 913-C?

    Hi, I have a Fiesta manufactured April 2008, with the 1.25 Zetec-S/Duratec DOHC EFI(75PS) engine. When attempting to select the correct oil for it I've had some confusion. It seems that 2008 was the last year ford made my shape which overlaps with the first year of the new shape. When entering my reg into oil suppliers I have had conflicting results. All suggesting 5W30 but with different combinations of WSS-M2C 913-B, WSS-M2C 913-C, Fully synth and Part synth. Does anyone know what I should be going for? Thanks! Mitch
  21. Hi so I have this problem that most garages seem to not actually have heard of. The clutch goes hard when not being used. If I drive around town for a while where I am constantly changing gear, i.e using the clutch, it works great. If i spend half hour or an hour on the motorway in one gear, i.e not using it, the clutch pedal goes stiff when i finally do. It's not impossible to depress but harder than it should be, as soon as I depress it a few times to change gear, it recovers. I was preparing to put a new clutch in towards the end of the year anyway as the pedal seems high but i need an opinion on the fault. Also it intermittently doesn't go into 1st gear! Only intermittently though, i have to retry and usually 2nd or 3rd time it slides into gear as it should. Same thing happens in reverse gear (which is the 1st gear but backwards i believe). It's a 2003 1.6 Zetec petrol and these are the only niggles on an otherwise fantastic car, like a Bentley compared to my old Corsa! Thanks in advance. One love
  22. Hi there i have a 53 plate ford fiesta durashift which wont start and has the code p0810. I was just wondering if anyone could give me a detailed run down of how to change it to manual??????
  23. Dear all, I would like to ask you if someone can help me - how many liters and what kind of oil do I need for gearbox in FORD Focus 2.0TDCi, hatchback, champion X Powershift, p.81 kw, a6, automat, year 09/2010? Thank you very very much! Martin
  24. Mrk6 To Mrk7 Light Conversion

    hi, i am thinking of putting on the bubbly headlights onto my mrk 6 ford fiesta but not sure if the functions will still be working properly after i change them .. can anyone help?
  25. Hi all, Does anyone have any guides, diagrams or videos on how to change front discs and pads on a 2010 Ford Fiesta. Many thanks