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Found 14 results

  1. Hi ,I have recently bought a 2005 1.6 TDCI Titanium Focus which seems to go very well . But a couple of times i have been on long hills and the acceleration more or less stops ..today it was at about 70 mph in 5th gear and doing about 2500 revs . As i come over the crest of the hill it becomes energetic again . Whilst i was doing this the fuel consumption reading remained unchanged at 60 mpg . (my previous car was a 19 yr old xantia 1.9td and i never had this problem) A pal of mine is suggesting that i change the fuel filter , i do have the service history but its not clear has the filter been changed . Is this a good idea and 2nd question is ..since i will be getting a garage to change the filter ,are they likely to have problems priming the fuel pump after this ?? the car has done 127,000 I was on the M6 in the outside lane . my pal says he is part of a discount scheme and can get the filter (and oil + filter) at a discount . any advice appreciated thx dave
  2. Dear All, I had an intermittent fault whereby the check engine light would randomly appear, then the engine would suddenly run like *****. Then it would be fine for 5 days and randomly come back. After research, decided best place to start would be the fuel filter. Have no tools so bought the filter online and paid a mobile mechanic £20 to change it. He couldn't get it started after changing. With lots of priming + few squirts of easy start it finally started but he quickly got me to switch it off. There was fuel ***** out everywhere from the metal high pressure lines that feed directly inside. He had attempted to undo them before to check if they were receiving fuel. The one on the far left is really awkward to get to so he couldn't quite get a proper grip on it. He said it would be fine yet on my drive to work this morning the car was smoking and stunk of diesel. After work I got home to check and was horrified at the amount of diesel on the same side (left as you look) around the pipe that was ***** oil before. Have just spent the last hour trying to tighten it up but can't see how you're supposed to get any grip on it to tighten. Even stranger, the engine does not start now. I unclipped the connection (see pic) and it starts fine but does not rev past 2,000rpm with it unplugged (+ check engine light on). I tried starting it up then plugging it in but it just does as soon you do that. Somehow it's all connected. Of course he has not returned my message. I do remember him saying oh ***** when he saw the fuel ***** out everywhere. I guess he had broken it and instead of owning up to it got it tightened quickly for a temp fix. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the engine won't start with the connection plugged in? But starts absolutely fine with it disconnected? + how is this related to the fuel inlet pipe that he has clearly damaged? (Connection unplugged in pic. Fuel inlet pipe was ***** around the brown joint)
  3. Servicing help!

    Hi all, half way through a full service on my car (ford focus 2005 1.6 manual) so far I have done, oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, ht leads, rocker cover gasket, all brake pads, disks, shoes and drums, new wheel cylinders and brake fluid. I have yet to do the pollen filter (I know how to do that) Does anyone have a guide or photos as to how to do the powersteering fluid & does anyone know the location of the fill and empty bungs on the gear box. Also the location of the fuel filter (if there is one) more photos and videos the better! Thanks everyone.
  4. 1.6 TDCI fuel filter

    Afternoon all, anyone know why ford changed the 1.6 tdci fuel filter from the cartridge based one which was used on early Mk2s and the 1.HDi engines then replaced it with that insanely expensive solid metal one? I'm fairly getting through these things and its driving me mad knowing how little the cartridge based ones cost compared to mine, I'm now thinking about replacing the whole filter setup with the other (older?) style, itll cost me half as much to buy the filter housing and the filter then it will cost to buy that metal filter so if theres no good reason why they did it then I might just mod it back on and save some pennies, the preheater is apart of the housing on the old one and by the looks of it its the same plugs so id just need to get a mounting bracket from an old mk2
  5. Hi! One day i tried to find fuel filter for my Focus Zetec mk2.5 1.6 petrol, milleage done 114.000 miles, but i didn't find, it is not under bonnet or under the car? I would like to do, cause i think that my car lose power? i changed spark plugs, leads, motor oil filter, check my compression and my cylinder compression - 1№ 12 ,2№ 12.5, 3№ 12.5, 4№ 12.5, and my engine eat oil, i am adding oil about 100 ml per month, why? is engine in good condition? is compression all right for my focus? Thanks
  6. Hi Everyone, I am planning on changing the Fuel Filter on the above car over the weekend and I have the good old Haynes Manual to follow, however I was just wondering if anyone knew of any good posts of this nature on the forum already or of any useful guides - a quick search didn't return anything? Any useful advice or things to watch out for etc also wouldn't go amiss! Also can anyone recommend a good Diesel Primer Pump - there are quite a few on Amazon, but most of them have less than brilliant reviews. Many thanks in advance! Glen
  7. Just wondering where abouts is the oil filter on my 2008 1.8 TDCI and what's the best way to get at it? Also if I am changing the fuel filter, is there anything I need to do (i.e bleeding the line) or can I just swap filters out?
  8. Ford 1.6TDCi & engine malfunction - limp home mode. I drive a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X 1.6TDCi Estate, the Econetic version which on the whole is a very nice car to car. But this week I have suffered the dreaded engine malfunction warning light & the car goes into limp home mode. Stop car turn off engine, restart which resets it, but it happens again 100m up the road even if your trying to be very careful. When thi shappens on a motorway it's virually impossible to rejoin teh carriageway as you need to accelerate hard. As this has happened twice in 4 months the garage made some further calls to Ford who told them that the additives that supermarkets add to diesel are not the same as the additives big brands add to diesel. So although I'm doing nothing wrong buy using supermarket diesel when you mix it with big brand diesel it causes a "gelling" in the fuel which in turn clogs the filter which reduces fuel pressure which the engine does not like, hence engine malfunction. I've read other posts talk about having replacement injectors / new dpf's but this (i'm told) is all wrong. Also the problem is common only to 1.6TDCi engines as these have much finer filters (apparently). The technician said this was a "southern" phenomenon as the problem is rarely heard of north of Birmingham. Something to do with the cr@p fule we get in London. The additives are generally added from September to March so during this period the advice was to stick to one type of fuel or the other but do not mix. Has anyone else heard of this?
  9. About a month ago my wife's 05 Focus 2.0 TDCi wouldn't start one morning and our local Ford garage changed the fuel filter and they stated that there was evidence of filings in the housing which could lead to the high pressure pump failing. Sure enough it cut out on her last week. I've sourced a pump and I'm halfway through fitting it and I'm slightly worried about what I've seen in the engine block.... The cavity that the pump fills doesn't seem to have anything there for the pump shaft to engage with, pump shaft being about 1.5" wide and 0.5" high... The pump is a Siemens... Is this normal?... Can I just install the pump as is or should there be something in the cavity to engage... Also found out that the 2.0 TDCi is notoriously difficult to get going again... Any tips? Thanks in advance...
  10. Bit of a story here..... I changed the fuel filter on my mk2 1.8 tdci, bad idea. Wasn't till the end of the Haynes manual guide that I realised I need a primer. A roadside guy came and he tried the usual stuff to get started including loosening number 1 injector. In the end I was towed to a local garage and he used a primer and it started. My wife did a 250 miles round trip and then parked the car outside the house. The next day I was met with a road full of diesel. I took to a mechanic mate and he noticed that injector was pouring out diesel. The roadside guy hadn't done it back up! My mate tightened it back up and it started up great and I went and put diesel in it and drove it home. Next morning it wouldn't start! I got it towed to a ford dealer and after 3 days they have come to the conclusion that the injector he loosened has a fault and needs replacing! Now I have seen stories on here and other sites with similar problems where people chuck money at the car and doesn't solve the problem. Apparantly their is no air in the system and the fuel filter is a ford one. The mechanic says fuel is getting every where it should. Any ideas or is a new injector the only way??? Thanks.
  11. I have changed the fuel filter on my ford focus 1.8 tdci mk2, i now have a leak, i have attached a photo of something i found on the ground near where i was working, is it a part i have missed? thanks
  12. Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help with this. I have searched on Google and found stuff similar, but nothing that exactly describes my issue. Some have been close, but answers have been spark plugs etc and being a diesel it doesn't have any. My focus 1.8 TDCI has been bang on since I got it, no issues at all. Serviced correctly and any parts Ford saying it required I bought. I do about 6000 miles a year roughly in it. One morning last week after finishing a nightshift though I started the car, it fired up fine, but 2 -3 seconds later it died. Started again without issue, then died. This continued 4 or 5 times and then it fired up and was fine. I decided it'd give it a little bit of a boot on the motorway and it was fine until in 4th gear at around 2.5k revs it started to jerk about like it was misfiring or being starved of fuel. I gave it a proper test later on after catching some sleep and i noticed that throughout all the rev range it is perfectly fine if you accelerate at a reasonable speed. Once you put the foot to the floor however, it accelerates fine upto around 2.5k rev mark and then struggle again. My theory is the fuel filter is clogged. I looked over all my receipts from Ford and its mentioned just about everything other than the fuel filter being replaced. Does this sound correct? My theory is that fuel is getting through, but when the engine starts drawing a lot more under hard acceleration, that a clogged fuel filter would be starving it from the required amount? The car starts fine, no issues, the car idles perfectly, so I don't suspect its any injector issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You in advance. Adrian
  13. Hi, I have a 2009 1.8 TDCI Focus. When changing the fuel filter what way should the rubber seal go. Should it be UNDER the filter i.e between the filter housing and the underside of the lip at the top of the filter element or OVER the filter i.e between the screw on housing cap and the top lip of the filter element?
  14. Hello Fellow Ford Fans! After many many posts popping up asking similar questions, we at FOC have decided to put together a little thread of known issues and troubles that rear their ugly heads during the winter months! Of course these issues aren't the be all and end all but it may go a little way to diagnosing your issues! Batteries: Your battery is vital, without it, your car may as well be a toaster! Battery issues tend to happen in colder months because of the stresses and strains you put on them during the colder seasons, heated screens, heated seats, colder operating temps, using lights more, heating glow plugs (Diesel only) all consume power. Getting into your car first thing on a -5*c morning, and expecting the battery to cope with all the electrical things is a tall order!! Cold ambient temps can cause battery's to fail, Car batteries produce electrons through chemical reactions. During cold weather, the battery's chemical reactions take place more slowly, meaning they are producing fewer electrons with which to power the engine. In addition, the engine's oil thickens during cold weather, causing the engine to require up to three times as much power to turn over. All this extra power needed will drain the battery mischief quicker. Symptoms of a dodgy battery will be poor or non starting (usually accompanied by a clicking sound) You can self test your battery by turning on the ignition and testing the battery with a multimeter, then turning on high drain items like heated screens or main beam, and seeing how much the battery drops or starts to discharge. A healthy battery should last a while and not discharge too quick or drop it's voltage much. Alternators: Your alternator charges your battery, but also supplies your car with all the electrics you need when driving. Similar to the battery, in the colder months we put a lot more strain onto the alternator. We ask it to run heated screens, seats, fans for blowing the hot air into the car, running lights, sometimes fog lights also, run the radio, use the wipers... All in all your asking it to provide a lot!! Sometimes on a worn alternator this can be too much! Alternators can overheat, if the engine is left running for periods of time with no movement, typically like when you leave the car to defrost or warm up on a frosty day... Add this to the exta power your wanting it to provide and bang... The end of your alternator. I had this once, and had smoke coming from under the bonnet! What had happened was the bearings inside had overheated due to being run for long periods of time and the bearings had collapsed. Luckily just a new alternator shaft was needed. Alternators also have diodes in, to convert the alternating current into direct current, to charge your battery and supply the 12v (well anywhere between 13-15) that your car needs. If one of these diodes fails, the alternator then cannot supply the required power. Symptoms are a regularly flat battery, and maybe dim lights. You can test the alternator yourself, by putting a multimeter across the battery when the car is running, however now with smart charge systems, it's not as easy to self diagnose, as the alternator/ECU will regulate the amount of charge given to the battery. Starter Motors: In cold weather it takes a lot more energy and work to start a car. This added strain can cause starter motors to overheat. If your vehicle has trouble starting on cold mornings it's more than likely one of the other issues, however if you keep trying to crank the car without it starting its important you stop and let things cool/settle... A starter motor can and will overheat if you try to crank the car for prolonged periods of time. Starter motors can also get "sticky" after time, and the problem can be temporarily solved by a gentle tap with a block of wood or similar... I am not for one minute suggesting that you try this when you car refuses to start, especially in the colder months, but this could be a symptom in the warmer months! Similar to a battery, symptoms will be poor or non starting and maybe a click from the starter motor. Fuel Filters: This is more geared for Diesel Owners, as petrol doesn't get affected in the same way. When diesel gets cold, it suffers from waxing or gelling, this means that below a certain temperature wax molecules start forming in the diesel. These molecules then start clumping together forming larger flakes, which in turn stick to things... Normally fuel lines, fuel filters, injector nozzles... Anywhere where the fuel runs! This of course can cause fuel starvation, meaning your engine will stall, go into limp mode, etc etc. Once a fuel filter becomes blocked it's often easier and cheaper just to replace it, rather than to try running additives through it to clean it. One thing I will stress is that most TDCi engines appear to be quite fussy on fuel filters, with many being a pig to reprime and start if using a non ford item. I know this from personal experience! Manufacturers have built in ways to combat waxing, by putting in an Excess Fuel Return system, or a spill return system, by which any excess fuel from the injector pump and injectors is returned to the fuel tank. Once the engine has warmed, returning warm fuel prevents waxing in the tank. Fuel suppliers also do their bit by supplying "Winter Diesel" this basically has some additives added, to prevent the waxed molecules from joining together, these additives however do not stop the waxing itself. There are some things you can do to prevent this, adding winter additive yourself, fitting a diesel pre heater. In days gone by, people used to add a little petrol, or kerosene. A practice still used by some Land Rover owners, however doing this on a modern TDDi or TDCi unit will be sending your car to an early grave! DO NOT add petrol or kerosene to your fuel! Symptoms of a blocked filter will be poor starting or non starting, limp mode or stalling when driving. You may also get either a glowplug warning light or the engine management light. Fuel Filter Housings: Something which I luckily seem to have avoided, however many colleagues and members on here have suffered with it! In the cold, things contract or get smaller. Something that appears fine when warm can give faults and issues when it's operating temp lowers substantially. Plastic is also known to get more brittle and fragile when cold. If you have a cracked fuel filter housing you may not necessarily know about it in the warmer months or once the car is up to running temperature, however when cold te plastic will shrink slightly, opening up any hairline cracks, letting air into your fuel system, and probably also forcing fuel out! Tell tale symptoms are the car stalling or going into limp mode when cold, but appearing to drive well when warm. Again warning lights on the dash! This can often be overlooked when people complain of running issues, so make sure you have a poke around first and double check. Glow Plugs: Again a diesel only thing. I could get technical and talk about thermal diffusion, but I won't! Basically for a diesel to start efficiently and easily, the cylinders have to be warmed in colder temps. This is done by glow plugs! They only operate for seconds, if that! But If they fail then you end up throwing diesel into a cylinder that's stone cold, and it takes longer to start. Obviously issues occur in winter as this is when the glowplugs are needed the most. Again symptoms of dodgy glowplugs will be rough or prolonged starting, white smoke from exhaust (note smoke and not steam from condensation) and a strong smell of unburnt diesel. You may get the glowplug light flashing on the dash, but in my experience you don't get this unless they are well and truly dead!! Glow Plug Loom: With the extra power needed to run the glowplugs for longer, this can of course cause wiring looms to work harder. On the end of the glowplug rail (some cars have this some don't) you will find a ring connector on the end of a wire, this can burn out and melt, causing a bad connection to the glow plugs. This means the glowplugs either aren't getting the full voltage or may have gone faulty and drawing more power than they should. This is easily sorted by chopping the loom back to a good bit of wire and recrimping a ring connector onto it. I have been reliably informed that this is how the main dealers do it unless the loom is completely burnt or it's too short. Symptoms will be similar to above, however if you lift the bonnet and get someone to crank the car over for you, you may be lucky (if you think of it that way) to see some smoke coming from the burnt end of the loom! Also look for black burnt ends on cables near the location of glowplugs. Forum Member big_dav3 has also created this handy winter survival guide. To make sure you don't get caught out this winter visit The Winter Survival Guide I hope that this thread has helped some of you diagnose your cold weather issues! This list is of course not extensive and there are many other things that could be causing your issues but these are a good starting point! Thanks for reading! The FOC Team.