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Found 23 results

  1. Mk2 Immobiliser Problem

    Apologies - copied across from the wrong forum (Mk1) It should make sense....... I very specifically asked the cluster PCB "repairers" twice if they needed a key and they said that they did not, or at least didn't take me up on the offer. I assumed that they could interrogate the old one and reprogram accordingly. (I had re-soldered the female connector on the PCB a few months back to get rid of another fault code so I did not suspect that a new PCB was needed when I dropped the cluster in for repair, so never thought to take a key in.) The auto-electrician said that he used another reasonably local outfit and clusters always went with a key and they do come back, drop in and you were going again. Can I assume that the LED immobiliser fault code is really 1,5 (key not recognised) - there is definitely a slightly bigger gap between the second and third of the 6 flashes than there is between any of the last 3 (flash, long gap, flash, short gap, flash, very short gap, flash, very short gap etc.) When the connector solder failed, it actually came up with quite a few faults and went into limp home mode, and it was intermittent. At the time this was all Dutch to me, so I took it into my local garage, they ran a diagnostic and that came back with what seemed to be half a mile of paper listing the faults (all not real of course). It was them that put me wise to all of the dash hassles that all cars made over the past 10 years or so, can suffer from (according to legend, associated with lead-free solder). From there, YouTube, and hence the re-solder job that I did. The real hassle now, is knowing what to do as the total bill at the moment is already horrible, plus working extra hours to cover time off to get this sorted, and I have been without the car for about 3 weeks already. I doubt the auto-electrician can help with reprogramming based on what he implied when I spoke to him - very helpful, but he did not imply that that was something that he could do himself. I have also checked the website of the most likely outfit that he uses - near certainly ECUTesting at Heanor (the right town, which he did mention) - and online they claim only to be able to repair units, and send back any unrepairable units with just an inspection cost incurred. At the very least there is going to be an "interesting conversation" early tomorrow at the "repairers" in Leicester. One "tip" - when the car was with the main dealer and had the immobiliser fault, I said that I'd organise a tow to get it off their forecourt, to which the very helpful guy on the desk just said that he might be able to help with that. The car was driven round to reception and left running with the warning that if I stalled while getting home or when I switched off, that would be curtains and the immobiliser would be locked again. So there is a simple way to frig the immobiliser/circuit-board problem.
  2. Hi My name is Richard I bought a 2005 mondeo st tdci a few months ago. It worked perfectly until.... In the winter the battery kept playing up(been off the road for 6 months now), it would be fine 1 day and would need a jump start the next. I was given a work vehicle and I probably drove my car 100 miles in 2 months, over a few days. So anyways, I ended up having to drive to work for a couple of weeks, it was OK for the first week, then the second week there was problem starting in the morning. I jump started it, got it to work, left it for 6 hours, got back, I tried to start and there was nothing. The result, I thought was a dead battery, so I replaced it. After changing it, it was still doing the same thing. It wouldn't turn over, the new battery is in good condition so it couldnt be that. At this time I noticed the immobiliser light would flash continually, suggesting that the key wasn't working anymore. I wouldnt accept it So I thought it could be the starter motor, tried arcing the connection and the starter works perfectly, turning over the engine no problem, So it couldnt be that. I got a mechanica to look at it, he plugged it in and looked for the key, all he could find was "low voltage errors", this was with the newest snap on computer. In the end he did his best but couldn't figure it out. Nor would he be able to reprogram a key. So still going with the idea of it being a key/immobiliser problem I got an auto locksmith out to reprogram the key, he did it straight away with no problems. But it still wouldn't turn over. Now the immobiliser light stays solid and after a minute it flashes 2 times then once, I looked this up and it is a fault code meaning that there is only 1 key programmed, apparently there should be 3. The dash lights up as it should, the starter motor relay clicks, and the starter motor works and turns over the engine from arcing the connection. The only difference is the immobiliser light. I would find it slightly convenient that an earth or something came loose specifically when the battery dies and wipes the keys. So I totally avoided that option. I also tried leaving the ignition on, and arcing the starter, it turned over but didn't start. So my question is, do I need to get more keys and get them programmed for it to start, or is there another issue which I am missing? Thanks Any help will be massively appreciated. Richard.
  3. HI guys... The keyfob on my 53 plate Fiesta is damaged... I can get a new keyfob for 2 pounds and transfer the old blade onto the new fob... However the question I have is will reprogramming the car to the keyfob just program the new remote or will it also work with the immobiliser? Many thanks!
  4. I lost my last set of car keys a few days, and as I didn't want to pay the rather extortionate amount of money that an official dealership wanted to charge to replace all the locks and immobiliser system, I went to an unofficial locksmith, who cut me a correct key but was unable to program the transponder in the key correctly. A day later I actually found my original key, however when I attempted to start the car with it it came up with the immobliser malfunction message. I've seen some places recommend unplugging the battery for 10/15 minutes to reset the electronics system, however don't know if this will work and also don't know if this will stop my original key from working, just looking for any advice/technical info on what might happen if i disconnected the battery or if I did anything else with the car.
  5. So I just went out to my car and the fob wouldn't unlock it. I tried my spare and still nothing. Changed the battery and still nothing. I can open the car with the key but obviously it sets the alarm off! Any ideas what this could be and how much it will cost to fix? Thanks in advance!!
  6. Hi posted a couple of weeks ago about a really strange and frustrating problem with my 2009 ford fiesta 1.6 diesel tdci. I have since taken to ford and auto electrician with no luck of solving the issue and am in desperate need of help to get an answer to why my fiesta starts intermittently. Any help would be much appreciated. I have narrowed down the issue to that of the immobiliser flashing rapidly causes the car not to start, the car does this intermittently and always starts first time when i go out to it in the morning or the first drive of the day after that it will play up and start intermittently maybe after 8 attempts of turning the key back and forth. I was told by for that it was the ECU and will cost 1600 quid to repair but find that hard to believe and them trying to rob me of my money. I feel the answer to my problem is simple and has to be to do with this immobiliser flashing rapidly and causing the car not to start. Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance
  7. Hi All, I've got a Ford Fusion 2008 1.4 petrol that's developed a rather frustrating issue. Most of the time everything is fine, however on the 5th (ish) time when I try to start the car all the lights come on etc.. but it doesnt appear to even try and attempt to start (just dead) and the immobiliser light flashes rapidly. The remote buttons always lock/unlock without issue. If i take the key out and try again it usually starts. However if I retry without switching off or removing the key it still fails. A local locksmith took a look and said the key was ok, he said he wasnt sure what it wasm but suggesting it looked like an imobiliser or ignition switch issue. And suggested changing the ignition switch first as it was cheaper. Any idea what it could be or I could try? Many thanks D
  8. Hi All, We have a Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi. Recently it was left untouched for just over a week. When I went to start it, it wouldn't - immobiliser active apparently. A bit of googling suggested a low battery *could* cause this - and we've known the car to have issues with the battery draining for no apparent reason. So I tried jump leads. No joy... So we got a mechanic in. Long story short, it seems I may have fried the ECU with my jump leading... However, the mechanic DID manage to start the car .... albeit for a minute or so before it cut out again. Initially he reckoned the ECU was dead - but now seems to think he can fix it (the ECU) ... and we could then avoid the expense of replacing the ECU and trailering the car to Ford for reprogramming, *if* we can find the spare key (which of course we can't!) - as he thinks the "main" key is dead (moreso than just a new battery). But since it did start for a minute or so, can the ECU be that dead? I can understand how the jump leads may have frazzled the ECU - but I don't get why the "main" key is now useless? How could the jump leads have killed a remote keyfob??!! Bracing myself for the situation that the ECU cannot be fixed and needs replacing - I've spoken to a local Ford dealer, who admitted he wasn't sure, but seemed to think we'd need both keys if we did end up needing to recode it all - surely that can't be right - we can't be the first people to be in this situation? Any idiot proof advice welcome!
  9. Hi all, So, easy question first...then it gets more testing ! Q: Is the Focus' immobilser "coding" paired with the instrument binnacle ?? Here's the background to the harder question: - Wife's 2007 1.6 diesel Focus (to-date, an excellent motor....hard as nails, and reliable up to the present 180k miles), developed a fault where multiple dashboard lights would illuminate briefly, resulting in a short loss of power. The "multiple lights" include (but may not be limited to): battery, immobiliser, handbrake, "exclamation" light. I've not experienced / replicated it, but it has tended to happen when the vehicle has warmed up (maybe 10/15 mins into a journey). Once the lights have briefly illuminated and then gone-off, the power resumes. However, it's happening more frequently, hence the remedy has become more urgent. My solution I purchased a new (used) instrument binnacle from another Focus and fitted it today. However (!) it appears the vehicle no longer accepts the keys previously used, and that the immobiliser is preventing the vehicle from starting. The Hard Question Assuming the new (used) binnacle is "paired" with it's own coded keys (and that the keys for my wife's motor are "paired" with the faulty old binnacle), can the new/used binnacle be freshly "paired" with the current keys, or must we get new keys to match the new/used binnacle ?? I notice there are some "ports" for electrical connectors into the back of the binnacle once the rear cover is removed (numbered "19" and "20" and 'pwr" I think)....can these be used via a laptop with the correct software and cables - a bit like an OBDII, to program the binnacle ? Brucie Bonus Question The new/used binnacle shows a lower mileage than our vehicle's current 180k miles...can the correct 180k mileage be programmed into the new/used binnacle ?? Would be impressed if both questions were answered, but very pleased if anyone could answer one ! Cheers, please and thanks. Jon
  10. Hi, Recently brought a Ford Fiesta climate style and it came with 2 keys One 3 button remote key, One without any buttons with a Blue chip on it. 2 keys are like I am thinking to get another spare key cut, Just in case if I lost the main remote key... As I believe these comes with Transponders I am thinking to get the following from ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252146887816?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Get this cut at lock smiths and program with the routine instructions.. My Question is will I be able to program the transponder without going to a auto locksmith? Thanks in Advance. Regards, Ashok
  11. Hi All, First Post 3 weeks ago I brought a car from a car garage. Within 3 days it started to backfire and started to lose speed. later realised that water was getting into the spark plugs. So I changed those and also fitted a new battery due to finding that there was hardly any power starting the car. Took to a garage for a report which lead to realising the core plug was corroded, front break disc where corroded and that passenger front shock absorber was severely corroded and leaking oil onto the break disc. Anyway now the car just isn't starting at all.. Recovery said its the starter motor however partner came home and some how managed to start the car. This morning I've gone to start it and again just not starting at all. Every light comes on the dash and the mileage is just shown as ----. (See pic below) I've also noticed the immobiliser light is flashing like mad. So I literally do not have a clue what the problem is? And whether it's worth fixing as I love the car or just take it back? (however car garage said that if I return it refund will not be in full as he will charge me usage "but won't be more the £500" LOL?! Even though I've only had it 3 weeks) the car was £1450 55 plate, 1.6 Ford Focus LX, @88,500 miles described as machially sound (just a heat cover needed reattaching which my partner did.) Do you know what's up with it? Is this common/major issue? Would your bother repairing it or just take it back for a refund? Any suggestions/ advice I would be grateful
  12. After 80,000 fault-free miles in my 2010 Mondeo 1.8TD, catastropy struck at midnight last Sunday when I returned to a French underground carpark after leaving the car there for five days and found the battery wouldn't start the engine. Not uncommon for diesel batteries to fail 'instantly' but after the guardiene brought first a starter battery and then his own car and jump leads over - and it still wouldn't start - I noticed the screen had the words IMMOBILISER ACTIVE on it. And believe me, nothing worked. The car handbook was singuarly unhelpful, suggesting I try another ignition key and then contact my local dealer. I will draw a line over getting the car out of the underground carpark (no engine, no servo steering, no servo brakes) up to street level and onto a trailer to the tow depot, who promised to get it to the local Ford dealer next morning (which they did); the costs of getting home; and the costs of getting back to collect the car. But the bitterest pill was that the instructions for resetting the immobiliser, missing from the owner's handbook for the car, are on YouTube (four rapid turns of the ignition key within two seconds, withdraw key and push any button.) Had I known that I'd be 600 pounds better off today. Thanks, Mr Ford, for a design which triggers the immobiliser if the battery is below voltage, and for not telling the owner of the car how to reset it. IDIOTS !
  13. Hello, I hope this is the right place to post, I am new to the club.... I have a Ford focus titanium 1.6 tdci. The immobiliser light has been permanently illuminated (fixed red light) for about a month. History leading up to this...... Alarm chimes and 'engine malfunction' message, but still drove ok.After a few local journeys, the car went into limp mode. Ran diagnostic check, errors were glow plugs and dpf Had glow plugs replaced, codes cleared. All was fine, but the immobiliser light came on and has stayed on since. 400 mile motorway drive. A couple of short journeys and then 'engine malfunction' message again and immediate limp mode. Codes not showing anything but had dpf checked. Very dirty. Flushed out and refitted. Another 400 mile drive. Fingers crossed all is ok. But this light is really worrying me...... Any advice would be great, thanks in advance.
  14. Hi Everyone, I have just bought a Ford Fiesta 1.2 2002 (yesterday) it was running fine yesterday although the engine light was lit on the dashboard. We have checked oil, coolant etc and all are near max. We then looked in the glove box to check the fuses shown as the ones for the engine light and they were both fine. But we have now gone to start the car and the immobiliser has kicked in so the car is no longer starting at all! We have tried both keys and neither are working. The codes being read are 77 and 16 (may be wrong if read incorrectly) Please could someone with any idea as to how we can fix this please let me know. Also does anyone know if RAC can fix this problem as because it isn't starting we can't even get it to a garage to get it fixed. Thanks guys
  15. Immobiliser

    Hi Guys, I have a 13 plate Fiesta, and when I put the key in it says "immobiliser malfunction service now" and wont start? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks!
  16. Hi, Hopefully someone will be able to help. My girlfriend has a 2005 Ka which recently has developed an issue with not starting. I have read through a few of the other forum posts and I think it is an immobiliser problem as the little red LED on the clock flashes quickly when turning the ignition and the car wont start, not even turn over. On of the solutions mentioned is to check the relay is working properly as they are prone to failing. My question is which relay is it as I'm struggling to find any diagrams anywhere. I can upload a picture of the realys if that helps. Thanks in advance!
  17. Not Starting. Immobiliser?

    Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere - I tried searching but couldn't see anything that seemed to fit. Got an 05 plate Focus which we bought second-hand a couple of months ago. I'd just parked up on the drive this afternoon and about 30 seconds later the handbrake seemed to give and the car coasted backward downhill hitting the gatepost. The driver's side door took the full impact and got bent right back alongside the wing. We've managed to fix the door hinges and rehang the door OK but now the car won't start. It's been perfectly reliable up until the crash this afternoon. All the lights come on on the dash, there's still plenty of petrol in the tank, and the engine makes all the right starting noises, just doesn't actually start running (sorry, I'm not great on cars and wasn't 100% sure that these were cranking noises!). Tried bump starting and again there was sound from under the bonnet but it didn't start. First thought was that the immobiliser might have kicked in but having looked online it sounds like there should be some sort of LED code - LED is coming on for the usual 2-3 seconds and then going off when the key is turned to II, as you'd expect. Also tried disconnecting the battery for about 5 seconds but it still wouldn't start when reconnected. Any ideas please? Really could do without a mechanic's bill... Thanks, Jim
  18. I have a flat battery and tried to charge battery by means of a battery charger. However when i connected the leads i got the message......immobiliser malfunction.........When i charged the battery and tried to start the engine.....this did not start at all. Can anyone help????
  19. 1.6Tdci Non Runner 2006

    Hi guys, this is actually a Volvo S40 1.6d but it is the same DV6 engine used in the fiesta in a 95bhp version and also the focus.. The car was fine until the battery died. So tried to jump it and it wouldn't go. Managed to bump start it to get it home but the power steering, abs and lights were not working at all whilst I drove home 10 miles. The car wouldn't start again not even the click of the solenoid. Changed battery to a brand new Bosch battery and the car won't start. Everything else works now but the car won't turn over. The starter solenoid clicks but the motor doesn't turn. So to diagnose i did the usual things. Check fuses, relays and wiring etc. nothing was broken so checked the starter. I removed it from the car and wired it to run straight from a battery off a car and it works perfectly. So I reinstalled it to the car and it still won't work. I ran a wire direct from the battery to the starter so when I turn the key the starter motor turns. Sure enough the engine will turn over. But the car still won't start. Seems like it's cutting the fuel which makes me wonder if this is an issue with ecu/cem? I tried both key and I don't think it's the immobiliser. The only other thing I've noticed that also isn't working is the hazard lights don't flash when locking/unlocking the car. The red light flashes though on the dash. When you unlock the car the light goes off. Anyone ever come across this issue? I've tried everything within my knowledge but it's looking like a main dealer job. Any help is greatly appreciated! Cheers!!
  20. Hi all, I made a set of keys without the immobiliser chip programmed and I had inserted this key into my engine ignition. Now when I inserted my 2 sets of keys which I know worked, I couldn't start the engine. I suspect this has something to do with the immobiliser. I thought an non-programmed key will only fail to start the engine but seems like it messes up with the whole security system and the old key wouldn't start now. Please let me know what I can do or who should I call to get it sorted. Thanks very much in advance. Ford Focus 2005
  21. Just posting this as information for other people out there. The other morning I came out to find a thief had punched a hole through my drivers window (right in the corner so my alarm didn't pick them up, I have since moved the ultrasonics!) to try and program their own key in via the OBD Port and steal my car. The way the thieves steal keyless Fords is by plugging a device into the OBD port, pressing the 'Power' button, then this wakes the Computer/ECU up and from this they can then program their own key in, remove their device and then unlock and start the car. This process can take minutes and it makes hardly any noise. The OBD Port Protector I have installed on my car saved it, it stopped the thief from programming their key in and driving away my pride and joy. This problem/thieves with the equipment seems to only be around Essex & Kent at the minute but it will soon spread to other areas I'm sure. Luckily I only had to fork out £40 for a new window and not £10,000+ for a new car! See the photos below!
  22. No Keys For Mondeo

    Hi all, I'm new here so please forgive me if I make any 'forum faux pas'. I've got a real problem, my neighbour broke into my house last year and stole ALL of my car keys. This includes 2 mk3 Mondeos and 2 mk5 Transits. Now, I've found out (I think) everything I need to do to get them working again (the local dealers are as useful as a chocolate teapot, they just want £600 per car for new keys, etc), I just want to confirm with anyone if this is all I need to replace: All the locks, the transponder ring around the steering column, and the ECU behind the glove box. This is for both the Trannies and the Mondies. Is there anything else I'm missing? Also, are lock/ immobilisers from different models (ie. mk2s) compatible? I haven't taken any apart yet cos I know I'll lose the important bits! But there are loads of ST24s being broken near me. And the final question: Is anyone breaking such vehicles and how much do you want for the lock/ immobiliser system? I'm on the Isle of Wight which is quite awkward... All help much appreciated :)
  23. Hello all! Of course, I'm new here, and I've been asking all over the net about my issue. I've been getting lots of great hints, ideas and advice, but figure that too much information in this case is better than not enough. In short, my family's car is a New Zealand registered 2008 base model Ford Mondeo Sedan. It is a European Ford from Belgium I believe? The vehicle is powered by a 2.0L 'Duratec-HE' engine. The problem is when we turn the key to start the car, there is no cranking at all, just clicking. There is an 'Immobilser Active' warning, strange flickering and whining in the cabin, and strange noises coming from under the hood. We not long completed a road trip of around 900kms return, and the car didn't miss a beat! Yet the very next day. she spat the dummy and wouldn't crank. All I can say is thank goodness it decided to wait till it was home parked in the garage to stop, rather than 5 or 6 hours away from home!!! Anyway, I have put 3 clips on YouTube to show what's happening. They will take around 2-3 minutes to view. 1. 2. 3. Is this going to be an expensive fix? I'm praying not! Anyway, thanks for viewing / reading and thanks for sharing your thoughts! William.