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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Found 12 results

  1. Ford Focus MK2

    Hi, I wonder if anyone can help. I have a 2006 focus 2.0 TDCI, the car has been "juddering" occasionally when driving, it feels like its starved of fuel when it judders and happens intermittently I have done all the usual thing like injector cleaner etc clean the EGR valve changed the MAF sensor but the problem is still there. I have had it put on the diagnostics and it came back with no faults. One of the pipes to the DPF had perished last year so I made a temporary fix with a piece of copper pipe inside the rubber pipe until I could get a replacement. It stayed this way for maybe 6 months until it went again and I had the garage replace the split pipe. So I wonder if it could be the DPF causing the intermittent fault, howver if I run the car with the either the MAF sensor or the EGR valve disconnected (Electrical connection) the fault goes away. Any advice would be gladly accepted
  2. Hi, Had to get my alternator fixed a couple weeks back on my 2008 Focus 1.8tdci S. Since I've had it back the EML light has come on and keeps throwing up code P0098 on my scanner. Ive changed the MAF and the code still comes up. After code reset it stays off for one drive then returns. The engine isn't running right, splutters a little while driving and occasionally struggles a little on starting. And now a ticking/tapping noise has started (tappet type noise) but louder. Could this be an issue with the wiring loom? Have they disturbed something when they changed the alternator? The MAF I bought was 2nd hand. Help please, I just want my car back to full working order!!
  3. Hi, I wonder if anyone can help. My 2006 fiesta Zetec S has recently been having issues starting which seem to be getting worse. The car starts for a few seconds and then stalls. It does this on 4 out of 5 attempts to start. Once it's running it seems to be fine, however what started out as once in a while now seems to be consitent every time I start. I had someone come and have look who plugged a computer in and no errors were reported. They suggested that it is most likely the immobiliser getting out of sync and suggested trying the spare key. However the fault happens with the key also. I have noticed that the remote central locking has recently been a bit sluggish I.e sometimes takes a few presses on the fob before the car locks so the imobiliser theory did seem to check out, however given I've tried the key without a fob this doesn't seem to be the case. Another theory was the MAF sensor but I assume given no errors were reported that this is also unlikely so I'm a bit stuck now as to what might be the issue. I obviously could take it into a garage but would rather go in with some idea of what the problem is before hand if possible so any suggestions would be much appreciated.
  4. Car is a 2007 2ltr tdci estate 180k on the clock I have a rough running problem which I've traced to the MAF, if I disconnect it the car runs fine, if I carry on running with it disconnected will it do any damage? Bit short of cash till next week but need to travel, also the external temp sensor has gone according to it its -40c, secondhand one on the way so not a worry at least if that's disconnected the temp is 0c buggers up the air con though.
  5. MAF Sensor

    People, I have a problem in my ford focus '01 zetec 1.8 16v petrol. The Dashbord DTC , show the code P103, accordind TIS ford , this is MAF problem,and my mecanichal plug the scanner in the car, and here the maf have a low voltage. I tried to clean the maf 2x but nothing changes. Ok , I bought a new maf , and the things get worst , the ilde rotation is worst the original and "dameged " MAF. A afraid the my PCM is dameged . In brazil a don't find good manufactures of MAF , the E-KLASS MAF i bought doesent work. Here in uk and europe, with manufactures of MAF we use. I very unhappy with this, because i did a good service in the car ( timming belt kit, acessories timming belt kit , oil , revision in the hydraulic steering , brake fluid , new fuel pump ) but the maf problem is very boring to me. Anyone can help and had his problem and how do to fix it ? Ford Brasil, don't produce anymore this part foi my car, because in brasil afte ten year the car discontued the manufactures doesn't have the obligation to built parts , and de paralelal parts in a lot of case don't have a good quality.
  6. Fiesta 1.4 Oil on MAF Sensor

    Hello All, I'm grateful for all the advice I have received on this forum so far. I wonder if I could pester you lot for more advice. I was just doing some checks under the bonnet and decided to look at the MAF sensor to see if it needed a clean. I bought my car as a used car and wanted to check the condition. I pulled the MAF sensor out and it was caked in oil. I could even see oil in the hole there the sensor slots in, so I guess oil has contaminated the air flow system. I gave it a quick clean with MAF Cleaner and the engine idle seems stable and clean and the revs seem more reactive. Has anyone had experience in this? and where is the oil coming from? I'm just worried that the long term affects could damage the car. Thnks
  7. Hi All, I've had my 1.0 ecoboost fiesta for just over a year now, done plenty of mods which I think may have brought on this problem. I was leaving work xmas eve when I turned the corner and as my traction control kicked in my car came to a complete hault and stalled. when i started it again it wasn't idling properly and after a few seconds it would stall again. Anyway managed to push it back to work and then I checked the ecu for errors, I got the following: P0101 - Which is Mass airflow sensor (MAF) P0113 - Which is the intake air temp sensor. With the MAF sensor unplugged, the car runs fine, just in like a limp mode. I then thought it was just a faulty MAF sensor so I bought a new one. Fitted to the car today and still the same problem. Ive checked for breaks in the wires but still nothing. Can anyone help??? :(
  8. Hi, First time poster long time lurker :) I recently purchased a Ford focus tdci 1.6 it is an 06 plate. During the first 2 months of ownership i have had no problems. However, since then an EML light appeared indicating a DPF fault. The car was returned to the original seller (several times) and eventually a new DPF eventually fitted. They also fitted a new EGR valve. The reason that I would like your advice is beause when driving down the motorway I am experiencing intermittent power loss . It is almost like the car is kangarooing like a petrol model. I am thinking this may be a MAF sensor fault? I have also noticed that the breather pipe from the oil exchanger is a poor fit thus causing oil vapor to collect in the air inlet (from the airbox). Now onto Chapter 2: When i got the car after 2 months i noticed the "black death" from injector 3. There is a fairly small, but noticable carbon deposit coming from here. When i returned the car because of the DPF fault i informed the sales man and he ensured me that the injector seat has been fixed. However, I am now 6 months in and still experencing this kangarooing type problem with the car. I have looked at the turbo chaft and it is solid and looks to be Ok.. Have also taken off the EGR since it has been replace and it is free and working as should be. Where else do i look? Your thoughts and suggestions are most welcome (except i can't afford to get rid) Pete
  9. Mk2 1.6 Tdci Stalling

    Hi All, I have a bit of a problem with my 2005 Mk2 1.6 tdci Focus. It has no DPF, so any problems with that can be discounted. The problems began last winter, when the car would occasionally start up in limp mode on cold mornings. Normally, this was solved by shutting off the ignition, then starting it up again. This issue gradually got worse and the shut down start up again trick worked less often. I bought a cheap OBDII reader off ebay, which pulled off the faults - P0047 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Circuit Low P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow 'A' Circuit Low P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow 'A' Circuit So, as the Turbo works absolutely fine when it's not in limp mode, I bought an after marker Mass Air Flow Sensor and fitted it. This didn't solve the problem, so I took it off and sent it back. Then, about two weeks ago it started stalling at low RPM. It wouldn't start straight away, only after a minute of being switched off. So I took it into a garage to have a diagnostics done on it, which gave the faults - P0483 - Fan Performance Part 1 P135B - Glow Plugs P1632 - Smart Alternator Faults Sensor/Circuit Malfunction P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow 'A' Circuit Low P0047 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Circuit Low P1180 - Fuel Delivery System Malfunction Low P0089 - Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Performance P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off The garage then cleared it and took it for a test run. They said the the fuel faults reappeared along this the MAF (which I informed them I had tried replacing and didn't work). They suggested I might be having problems with the fuel pump, but as it was working, ok at the time, they sent me home with it. The next day I was driving at 70mph in 3rd gear, so most definitely not low RPM and it cut out on me again. At first, I lost all throttle response and as I coasted to a halt, it then stalled. So I called the garage and got it booked in again. I did a bit of exploratory driving later that day, and discovered it was only stalling on a cold engine, so I let the garage know this when I took it in. I also noticed that when left to idle, the rev counter would fluctuate, dipping, then rising, gradually worsening until it stalled. The garage has another look at it, drove it on a cold engine (which cut out on them) and cleared the fault codes again. They tried unplugging the MAF sensor, which they said must be at fault since the car worked better (no stalling) without it plugged in. Since I could get a replacement cheaper than them (OEM from Ford this time!) and was easy to DIY, I picked the car up to fix at home myself. Which brings me to this evening. I drove around for a short while (long enough for the engine to warm up), stopped to get chips and left for home again (the MAF was still unplugged at this point). On my way home the car cut out on me twice. I took it for another spin a bit later, when the engine had cooled down and with the MAF plugged back in. It cut out. I unplugged the MAF, it cut out. I got the engine warmed back up and plugged the MAF back in, and it cut out. I finally unplugged the MAF on a warm engine and it still cut out. So, I'm left with a lot of questions. If the MAF being unplugged no longer makes a difference, is it not at fault? Which fault could it actually be? Could it be all of them? Could it be something unrelated like the ECU itself or maybe a broken cable? I just don't know where to go from here, the car is pretty much undrivable. Any insight would be very much appreciated. * EDIT - Here is a video of the idling fluctuations.
  10. I have a fiesta 1.4 TDCI. When I bought it there where no pins in the MAF sensor and the fault was shown as the MAF sensor. The car starts and runs ok, it's a bit sluggish and it only gets around 50 mpg on a run at 70 mph. I fitted a new MAF sensor hopeing to get a bit more power and better MPG. The power is about the same but the MPG went right down and black smoke is coming from the exhaust, so much that I pulled over and disconnected the MAF again and the car is back to running normal but with low MPG. Any thoughts as to what the problem may be?
  11. Hello all! I've been trying to get to the bottom of the jerking/performance problem that my car has been having. Sometimes, when I turn my car on from a cold start, the revs will keep dipping. If I put my foot down on the pedal a bit, the revs will drop all the way down with the car making a clunking noise as they reach the bottom, then it will shoot up and begin dropping again. After about 10 minutes of driving, the problem will suddenly disappear, no gradual changes, it will just suddenly drive fine. A clip of the uneasy revs can be found below: Restarting the car doesn't help, I just have to ride the jerking out until it stops. When filming that video, I noticed some smoke coming out of the right hand side of the engine cover near the right side of the engine so I stopped straight away and turned the engine off soon after. Also when travelling at speed (e.g 65mph), when putting my foot down relatively hard, the car will begin to accelerate and then start juddering backwards and forwards whilst accelerating. Easing off the pedal remedies this problem. I've tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and the car drives much better, also feels more performant when accelerating. Soon after disconnecting the MAP sensor the following error codes come on: P0238 - Turbocharger / Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High P0488 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Control Circuit A Range / Performance P2141 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Control Circuit A Low After plugging the MAP sensor back in and clearing the codes and a few lucky miles later without the car jerking, error codes P0488 and P2141 both came back on (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). So basically: - Car drives better with the MAP sensor disconnected but I get a few error codes after a few miles - With MAP sensor connected, the car sometimes jerks/judders - Could be the MAP sensor, or maybe MAF sensor? Also maybe the EGR valve due to Exhaust Gas Recirculation error codes? Also I don't know whether I should be concerned about the fact that the car drives better with the MAP sensor disconnected, I've heard that it's supposed to degrade performance when disconnected, meaning that the performance of my car with it connected could be lacking but I don't know (a friend of mine said getting up to 60mph in my car was quite slow even with my foot down, getting up to 30mph is fine though). Any help would be much appreciated on what steps I could take next! Thanks! :D
  12. Over-Revving C-Max 2004

    Hi. We have had a problem with our c-max for some months. Initially, it was under-revving and would stall at traffic lights and junctions.No warning lights at all. The local Ford dealer put it on the diagnosis machine which showed no problems. They suggested a new battery. This helped and the car no longer under-revs or stalls - instead of this, it is massively over-revving at 2000RPM, most of the time! Just spoken to Ford and asked them if they could check the ICV, as this is the problem I have noted from much internet trawling, but they inform me that there is no ICV on this model and tyhat it could be the MAF(?) or any of a number of other problems and that it will need re-diagnosing. Could I ask a) if this is correct; B) what else the problem might be; c) how easy is it for a complete novice to remedy; and d) how much would it cost for a garage to sort it out? Thanks in advance for your help.