Posting in General Chat thread. 11/11/2017it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'replace rear hubs mondeo mk4'.
Found 1 result
I recently changed both rear wheel bearings/hubs and hope this post helps others, as it was quite hard to get tips apart from using my Haynes.... Apart from the usual spanners and sockets, I used: T55 1/2" socket (used a 1/4" and it snapped) the extra force allowed is helpful! a ratchet extender - I used a steel pipe - this allowed me more control in a tight space. Axle stand (so your jack can be used on the suspension if needed). A bit of string - useful for tying the calliper in various places out of the way. 2x4 bit of wood a bit over 1 foot long Brakes - there are plenty of blogs on brakes - check them! I removed the road wheel, loosened the disc securing screw with a T50, removed the calliper, pads and then the calliper holder - this was done without removing the handbrake cable or brake fluid hose. I removed the pads so I could easily remove the calliper past the lip worn in the disc. I tied the calliper out of the way with the string. I then removed the disc securing screw and removed the disc. this was stuck on so I gave it a whack with a wooden mallet and off it came. Hub bearing - I needed to get better access as I was working from the side of the car, so I released the upper control arm from the hub carrier. This can be identified bolt going through a bush ion the hub carrier, control arm and holding bracket for the brake hose and cables. I used a trolley jack to hold the suspension in place and left it there throughout the hub removal and fitting process. Next I undid the top bolt on the anti-roll bar and let the suspension down using the jack. Removing the star bolts was hard as they are hidden away, and I sheared the lesser 1/4" T55 socket - but with a new 1/2" T55, a short wrench extension and the steel tube on the handle, they eventually loosened .... relief....: a torch is handy to get a look at the bolts. Refitting was a reverse of removal, but aligning the control arm with the hub carrier was hard - the jack came in handy, a spare pair of hands and a 2X4 bit of wood knocked in between the ground and the new hub to raise it. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this.... The job took about 3 hours for both sides and saved £100s. lf you know of better ways of doing this than me please add to this post. Cheers